c49er

Jay, I'll make it a better deal...I'll cut the roof off the C39 3 pass cpe and make it a roadster plus the edmunds manifold... all for ..................................$1250.00? That sound OK?

My Edmunds manifold is for sale, shipped only in the US--$650.00+ pkg and Shipping costs. Bob

I'd suspect a shrunk up accelerator pump and or it's jet being partially clogged. Also check the step up piston and it's jet not being 100% up to par. Simple carbs easy to check and work on. Bob

Home made stuff usually looks as such. Unless you are a very talented person. Two short added on intake flanges are kinda cheesey.

Come on Rusty-does my manifold really look that crappy and bad? lets see some of your great ****---deleted swear word comment ! Old Edmunds manifolds are highly sought after by hundreds of people even though they are patterned with 2x6 Ironwood. You are just jealous because you don't have one to show us! I think back in 1958 I read how to cast a manifold for a Moon car in Mechanics Illustrated for under a dollar. Bob

It your dodge does have low original 5600 miles on the odometer the brake and clutch pedals should still have very defined rubber rib lines on them, the door latches should click and latch shut with a light push, really nice clean non worn rubber floor mat and the engine oil pressure should be over 45LBS cold and hot at all times. The engine also should be relatively free of any excessive external grease on the original silver paint. As Rusty says rings could be stuck but...with that low mileage there cannot be too much sludge. I'd pull the drain plug and stick my finger in the hole and see how much sludge is at the bottom of the pan. About 35 years ago a dealer as I recall in Texas sold off a bunch of 50's Mopars including a medium metallic blue 1953 Plymouth 2 door club coupe I have seen a couple times at auctions.

I'd do just as you plan...thats what I did to this NOS AAV-2. Pulled the top lubed the accelerator pump. All was good to go! Bob

Thanks Jay! I'm going to test this issue when the later this spring. Bob

Thats the way I do them-key in the slot after drum install.

Sometimes using a impact gun with the high RPM will buzz the bolts and nuts right off even though the back side nuts are loose and can spin.

With the drums on you still should be able to feel that .005" end play, though it would be an extremely slight feel/movement. The drum will not change end play.

Some clutch and brake spring pics on a 48 T&C ....... Pic of rear Axle shims of misc thicknesses for rear axle end play adjustment .030", .012", .010" ect shown.. To adjust the rear axle shaft end play you need to use a dial indicator and check end play with backing plates mounted. Use a brass hammer and whack the end of each axle to seat bearing race against backing plates. Then check for end play. Use whatever misc shim sizes to get proper end play smacking axles each time shims are added or taken away. Try to keep roughly the same thickness of shims on each side if possible. Another note the big thick over center spring is niormally adjusted withe a special Miller service tool. It makes this adjustment fast and easy. If the spring and torque shaft is not adjusted right the clutch pedal will not feel right or return all the way and you will have to keep playing with the adjustments.

Now you got me wondering if any of my cars will will engage while running?:confused:

"What is the function of the wire coming from the A post of the generator to the solenoid?" That part of the solenoid wiring circuit prevents the starter solenoid from being energized once the engine is running . With out the engine running and the generator "Arm" terminal not producing voltage the armature wiring circuit provides the ground side circuit for the solenoid relay coil. Once the engine starts and is running the "ARM" circuit is producing voltage which opposes voltage from the starter switch. Therefore the starter solenoid cannot operate while the engine is running.

I think you can get the screw out OK without pulling the valve. Get it up as High as you can and remove the screw.

That 681544# probably came out in mid 30's? So Mopar cars must have used those self locking tappet screws in the mid 30's too. I've never seen anything else on hundreds of Mopars late 30's on up that I have worked on over the years. I wouldn't want to deal with lock nuts when adjusting tappets on an old flathead!