larry butcher

Check the ad in the "parts for sale-prewar" on this forum- Aug.30, 2017

Please note , there were "wind wings" for open cars and closed cars( '38-'39) LZ's. Try to look at a picture of Jerry Emery's '39 Conv.

Well, let me throw in what I can, have played with these HV12 since 1965. I always look fo the SIMPLEST things 1st!! That dist. cannot be mounted wrong on the front of the engine. If you place it on wrong and tighten down , you will crack the housing. Check all connections from ignition switch to step down resistors under the dash. Not only for tightnest , but clean the ring connectors at the end of each wire. When you pull on or switch ignition switch, do you get voltage all the way to the coil? GENTLY! remove coil, and check the condition of the 2 small carbon brushes and springs. Are the 2 ign. feed wires going thru the conduit to the coil in good condition? When replacing the plugs ,check the gap, even though they are new. Used new plug gaskets. just a few things to check. I spent 33 years as a telephone installer/ repairman and chasing troubles the same----battery & ground, battery & ground--Larry

'36-'39 LZ gas tank, in dry storage for years, needs general cleaning & paint, ,no sender unit correct fill pipe----$175 plus crateing & shipping. Larry Butcher ,1-410-756-5310, zephyr38@verizon.net

Hey you old car movie guys wasn't that the car that starred in the "B" grade, B&W movie from the 50's ; called "Detour" ? Also did anyone else other than me see the TCM movie showned Sat . night called "Keeper of the Flame"? starred Spencer Tracy and Katharine Hepburn. The "feature car" was a new1942 LC Cabriolet, painted black or another very dark color.

Thats right Tom, there is a piece of anti-squeek material between the body and the spare tire bracket ( "Continental Kit") on my '48 LC coupe

I checked the Lincoln Continental Authenticity Manual and it mentioned only welt at the fenders. When I removed the rear valance from my '48 LC Coupe there was no traces of welting material. I don't think anyone had ever removed this before me. I may install 2 pcs. about 8" long on each side with the beading tucked under, probably wrong but; gives a finished look

Check the "sources" on this forumn, Boos/ Herrel, Narragansett Reproductions, and Alan Whelihan. These cars were limited production and many parts were not interchangable. Each car I ever worked on/ restored almost" broke the bank"

In the past, each V12 I pulled out ; I learned something new each time. What ever it takes, remove the engine mounts first; don't leave attached to engine. Remove the radiator, the slightest touch will damage the core fins. If the firewall has good paint lay an old blanket to protect that. I have always disconnected the transmision from the engine and let it lay in the car until after the engine is out.then remove from car. You will probably have to jack the trans. up a little to place blocks under. If using a" cherry picker" , try to make room to move the car when the engine is clear ,instead of trying to move that 3 wheel crane with a V12 swinging in the air! Still a fun job , I have done these pulls by myself, took my time. The last time I pulled the engine from my '38, I jacked the car up and dragged the engine out from the bottom, that's another story! Have fun!!!

It is really a great feeling! Going down the road and listening for any strange sounds! Returning back to the shop with no trouble! Post some pictures if you can, We don't care what it looks like!--- Larry

I have the lens that you need, "E" mail me at ---zephyr38@verizon.net for details and price, Thank you, Larry

Hello Colin, Years ago I stripped out a '38 sedanand kept the springs and a whole load of other things. I have the springs in my basement. I just checked and the 14 leaf C to C measures 40-1/4'' . This laying on the floor and all leaves still together. The other spring is 11 leaves(?) and it measures 40-5/8" Cto C. C to C meaning center to center of the studs. Hope this helps--- Larry

I know that feeling! 1st with my '42 LC Cabriolet in 1967, next was getting a worn 1940 LZ sedan running after at least 5 years, then my '38 Lz conv. back in '73 after a complete rebuild. And now in 2012 my '48 LC coupe . I "felt tipped" the moment on the garage wall-- Feb.22nd 2:15pm the "MONSTER LIVES!" Just like in the movie "Frankenstein" He LIves! , He Lives! or something like that.

You should have no problem, I recently moved my '48 LC Coupe on 4 dollies; 2 store bought and 2 that I made . No problem at all.

Sorry , you did say 1939LZ, I missed that

Let' s start with ,what year is your Zephyr or Continental?

Stefani, Please resubmit your post again , having trouble understanding just what you want to do. There is a lot of knowledge of these old Lincolns on this Club site. Post pictures if you can. Don't give up!

Jord, I'am going to try and send to you a scan from the "Lincoln- Zephyr 1936- 1940 Chassis Parts List". This will show the parts used with a car equiped w/ HV12-- check our vendors on this site. If you don't receive the detailed print from the parts book , send me your "E" mail address to zephyr38@verizon.net and I'll send that way--- Larry

Look carefully at the top of the float rod and you will see very fine threads on 1st 3/16" . The thread size is #0-80.As per the Authenticity Manual and what I have seen on Zephyrs and Continentals, '36-'37 used a silver ball; late '37-'48 used a flat button which is screwed on to the rod. Some of these later "button" type may have been plastic. If you need one check with the vendors on this site. Good Luck

Could it possibly be the float body itself is dragging on the side of the opening in the pan tray. This is the insert that snaps into the pan edge. Once the oil slushes around and gets hot , the float body breaks free and acts normal. I know you want to check everything before dropping that pan to inspect that float!

careful !careful ! Move your Zephyr! That stack looks a little shakey!

I knew I would mess this up!!!!

I knew somewhere in the 50 years of back issues of "The Way of the Zephyr" , I saw at least 1 article on the subject of HV12 fuel pump push rods. The V12 push rod is VERY DIFFERENT from the Ford rods . And now if I scanned correctly here is the article taken from "THE WAY OF THE ZEPHYR" , March/April 2014/ Vol.47 #2 . Bear with me if size is off

Ady, Any luck yet in getting together the info you need for the brake work to be done on your car? Let me here on the "Forum" . If not, I can scan what I have for early LZ mechanical brakes and send it to you--- Larry

Roy, I couldn't tell any difference in th sound of the starter because it was not running when I bought the car and I did the fix be- I got it running. When I removed the intake manifold ,the valley was clean ; although I had 1 stuck valve. This was taken care of by tapping valve down thru the spark plug hole with a brass rod ,back and forth while soaking with penetrating oil and bumping the starting motor. After dropping the pan, I found no sludge but the oil float was demolished due to the lack of a pan tray.Replaced the float .the oil pump had beenreplaced by previous owner The engine looked to be rebuilt some years before I bought the car. "26 H" was stamped on the top manifold rail and also the rebuilder 's initials. I had to replace the hardware store lockwashers on the rod caps with the correct bend over tab locks. I pulled a couple rod bearing caps and main bearing caps to check wear- beautiful! New fuel pump, gas line, replaced gas tank, rebuilt carb, recored radiator,had coil rebuilt and repaced points, and resetup the dist. replaced engine wiring had starter checked out,,new battery. Fired it up and it ran good. Good oil pressure. I know you didn't asked the whole story, but I do get carried away--- Larry