larry butcher

Gerry, I understand what you are saying, good luck anLarryd let us know how it works out--- Larry

Gerry, First, Sorry if this post is "jumbled " after I I post it , something I 'am doing wrong. So my reference is the big parts book , on pg. 11 and Macs Ford parts catalog. The parts I'am going to mention are OUTSIDE of the main body of the Master cylinder . The 1st part right at the rear of the master cyn. is - 91A- 2152 ( gasket, copper, .51 ID /.81OD. The next part is fitting- 96H-2076- ( NOTE- this is a Lincoln part # ,'39-'48. The next part is 91A-2151, ( copper gasket, .61ID/.81 . OD, the next part is the special bolt ( 91A-2077). The last part is 11A-13480 or 01A-13480- stoplight switch. I hope this helps.- Larry

These "gaskets" are really copper washers, P/N is 91A---'39 Ford. 2 different sizes. Do not reuse! Ford vendors have these and perhaps our vendors on this website

one more small item that may help-- on pg. 180 of the same parts catalog that we all use, there is a small bracket - P/N 51A-11140. This is Ford # and is used on Ford flatheads as well as our HV12's. It helps keep the starter in correct alignment with the flat surface of the pan. One more thing that may not be a problem on your engine, it was on my '48 LC. After purchasing the car and going over it , under it and all around I noticed the "snout" where the Bendix drive travels to was cut off and the end of the gear was exposed to the elements. The engine may be '42, because the bore is 2-15/16" . So , perhaps the later ' 5EH ' was used. The fix for this was to cut off the bottom of a empty and cleaned out propane bottle, cut to length as needed ; and soldered it on the remaining length of the "snout" , it fit perfectly ! The OD of the pan snout slid right into the ID of propane bottle.

Gerry, Just changed the oil and filter of my '48 LC Coupe. I added 4 qts. of oil and started up to let it warm up again. I got it good and warm before draining old oil. Topped off oil after shutting down. The new filter will take almost a qt. Is your float in good shape and does not leak? Does your pan have a correct "cage" for the float to travel in? Last, was the float rod ever altered? That is , correct length?--- Larry

What's this worth?? Good question! From past experience, it all depends if the block is cracked. Years ago I opened up a '46 V12 that had sat out side next to a used car lot office. It turned out it was good and I did a complete rebuild and is still running today. If it is cracked between the valves junk it and save all of the parts. If cracked on outside water jackets, it could possibly be repaired. Perhaps $600---$800 PLUS SHIPPING! Best to pick up No short cuts on rebuilding, The whole thing , from bare block out!--- Larry

It sounds like it is time to go over your whole fuel system from what you have mentioned. Start at the tank-- remove drain ,place a large pan be careful!. break loose fuel line , remove bolts , break loose fuel fill neck, open access plate in trunk floor and disconnect and insulate wire going up toward dash, Inspect tank for dirt and rust. Inspect gas line going up toward engine. A rust hole in gas line will sometimes draw air and still allow engine to run. The correct fuel pump for a'41 is a metal dome bowl ( P/N 16 H-9350), but glass bowl pump will work. The pump is operated by a push a push rod off of the cam shaft. ,these rods wear. If nothing has been done to the fuel pump for years- have it rebuilt. as far as an electric fuel pump, these cars never left the factory with an electric pump, but it is good idea to install an electric pump as a back up ( vapor lock, poor gas, boost to help start after sitting long period of time)Wire in as a bypass. One other thing not to overlook is the gasket between the glass bowl and metal body of your fuel pump-- this has to be a PERFECT SEAL!!!! No one ever said these old cars are easy or cheap! Good Luck P,S- the windshield wipers are another problem!

I remember when I restored my '38 LZ Conv. , I used the Ford mirrors with the curved arm. I think the part# started with a 68- This is a ". bear of a job" , since your car is now painted. It will still cost you some money. "Eastwood" sells a nice hinge pin remover. You must take your time!!!! Use cardboard and painter's tape all around the hinge area. Of course the best way is to heat the hinge , but can't do that now! As "19tom40" mentioned above, predrill the bottom of the exiting pin the exact diameter about 1/4" to 3/8" from the bottom. Good Luck!

try C&G Early Ford Parts-- www.cgfordparts.com I have their 2011 cat. on page 23 7 ,under '40-'56 PU heater defrost. --3-1/2" or 4-00" BUT in only 3 ft. lengths! I'll need it for my '48 also

Your Header says you have a 1948 Lincoln Continental , I too have a '48 Continental ; a Coupe. The Continentals 1941 - 1948 and maybe the 1940 had a poor ground for the stoplight and the license plate light. The stoplight and the license housing ( cast aluminum) is hinged so it can be folded down to remove the spare tire. There is the problem!This is where the ground is picked up for the brake and license lamps The ground is lost somewhere around the hinge pin. Run a test ground wire from the lamp housing back to the car frame somewhere. Make good CLEAN connections. This may identify your problem.

I guess I should have previewed this!!!!

Mark, The Caddy and the Olds OHV V8 engines were a very popular swap back in the 50's and 60's. A worn out HV12 was pricey to fix. Is your trans a side shifter with a after market floorshift like an old Foxcraft? I think your engine might be a 303 c.i. Try to clean up the engine and have some fun with it ! The brake parts are available. The vin # is stamped on the frt. . cross member near the main frame rail. This drivers side. Stand at left frt. fender and look down in- side engine bay. You may have to lightly sand or wire brush the dirt and rust off. The other location of VIN # is left side frame about 8-10" left of gas fill pipe. The data plate on fire wall , if not removed ; will have the model ( 26H ) for '42 or (66H) for '46. The next # is the model code for the type ,ie- coupe, sedan, conv.. etc. The last # if given ,is the count #; which means actual # coming down the line. All of my Lincolns--"38 LZConv.coupe, '42 LC Cab. and '48 LC Coupe had this info. If you are not a member of the Lincoln Zephyr Owners Club, please join ! A lot of great people and a lot of good information. POST PICTURES! We want to see what you are working on-- Good Luck!---Larry

Nice looking car! What do you mean by 50's and 60's HoT Rod ? Does it have the V12 engine? By checking the VIN # on front cross member you can determine if it is a true '42 or an upgraded '42 to "46. The grilles look to be '46 -'48 and the hood ornament looks to be '47-'48. Years back I purchased what I thought was a '47 LC Cabriolet - turned out to be a rare '42 LC Cabriolet. This could be a held over '42 sold as a '46. Still, all being said the car looks good! Sheet metal looks to be real good. Keep us informed ----Good Luck---Larry

If you really don't know the history of these cars and how their V12 s were maintained; , JFranklin is correct . drop the pans and clean out the sludge , clean off the oil pump pick up screen and check the condition of the oil float. Good suggestion from "1941" good oil

Thanks Jeff, glad you liked the parts---Larry

As many of you Zephyr guys know, for years I have been producing and selling repro generator pulley covers and repro gear snifter grommets . I still have a number of these left....but when these are gone ; they are gone! I will not be making anymore. See my ad in "PARTS" & ..MISC " this forum , Jan.15, 2017 ; for prices and details. Thank you- Larry

"Mssr Bratoe", I'am interested in the fog light housing. Please "E" mail me at zephyr38@verizon.net Thank you, Larry Butcher

What side is it? There are right. and left . Do you have the pr. or just 1? The # is cast in the inside verticle edge.

Not quite---- I pulled a 59A V 8 out of a '42 LC cab. There was an early 59A type frt. cross member "bubble gum " welded in across the frame, with a cold chisel and a few wacks it was removed. . You'll need this and longer rad hoses--- Larry

Gerry, Check out pg. 332 of the '36-'48 Lincoln Chassis parts catalog. It shows the whole exploded view of the hot water heater system . This should help- Larry

Looks to be what is left of a hot water heater valve that is screwed into the head. Can't find it in my Lincoln parts book, but Ford part #91A-15142 for flathead Ford( 59A) may work-Larry

You said ,"1948 LC " ? There is a round access plate on drivers side floor . Perhaps the floor panel was changed out and no opening provided.. Climb under and look up directly above the master cylinder , that is where the plate should be..

I did some research and found informstion taken from "The Lincoln Continental" by OCee Rtch, published by Floyd Clymer. The very 1st book i purchased on old cars in 1965. In the tech part it mentions the valve as "valve-( hydraulic tappet bypass). P/N 86H-6544; Also in the 2 parts books I have, it is mentioned also. You need it if you are keeping your hyd. lifters and hyd cam. The 2 you show are at least 2 available at the time. The tops are "staked" to lock the cap . This unit is delicate with a small spring and very small ball bearing as a check valve. They can be cleaned and reinsalled. You may want to check on our website under "sources" and purchase new one. "The Late Great " Hunt Barrington knew this part . A whole article on this was mentioned in either early "Continental Comments" or "The Way of the Zephyr" . When I get the time I will dig it out. Anyone else ---jump on now and tell us what you know .---Later

This small valve has been discussed before and I will try and find out where I saw the article--- TWOZ or "Continental Comments" Years ago . Give me a few days.

Matt, From the photos I looked at , it looks to be in real good condition. The mileage stated looks to be possible. All of the hard to get parts seem to be there- lower trim, outside rear view mirrors, correct air cleaner. Most had O.D. . I think I can see an overdrive button on the left side of the dash. I t would be nice to see how the trunk was finished out. With the almost flat deck lid, the Continentals often had leakage problem in the trunk. If you do make a vistit to see the car, start it up and run it to warm it up and see if it overheats. Listen to the exhaust, and general sound of engine. Put dealer tags on and take it out on the road. Check ou steering, does it wander? Try the brakes- make noise? pull to one side?. If you can, have it put up on a lift check ou t the sheet metal - are the floors solid? sheet metal patches? any leals- oil, gear oil, brake fluid. How does the wiring look? old, tattered. , patched up, or good ? If possible, contact the Lincoln and Continenal Owners Club and see if there is someone in the club that may live near by could check it out or meet you there? If you really like the car - offer him $25 K. Pick a number and hold the line! Good Luck Larry