babychadwick

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About babychadwick

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  1. Old violen case
  2. I am south FL and will eventually be in TN, 3rd generation T speedster nut. Im currently doing a '27.
  3. You are both correct, I have done some playing with wood and "other materials"
  4. Wet the wood then dry it with hear, a stove burner works. This will raise the grains that are curried due to sanding. Use some fine steel wool to smooth it out, do it several times and the stain/varnish will adhere better.
  5. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/epifanes--clear-high-gloss-varnish--P004_128_001_002?recordNum=1 A cheaper alternative https://www.westmarine.com/buy/z-spar--z-spar-1015-captain-s-varnish--P004_128_001_505?recordNum=2
  6. Looking to put together a trailer/rig myself. I have a trailer I'm doing now but it will be more for long distance towing (say 1000 miles plus one way) and all enclosed so it can double as a garage. For closer trips I plan on putting a hitch on the '38 zephyr sedan and constructing a light weight basic trailer out of a discarded aluminum boat trailer. With this I will be able to tow the speedster I am building or my Mom's.
  7. Check west marine if there is one near you and you will find different options. Typically it last about 1 year down here before it needs redoing. Of course that is down in the FL keys with sun doing its best to kill it nearly every day of the year. Looking at my little whaler the front board exposed to the sun is bad, I'll need to sand it down and recoat again but the rest that was under the shade looks outstanding. I did both at the same time.
  8. Sounds similar to how I got my 38. I ended up going thru the distributor and rewiring the car including new plugs and wires. While at it I converted to 12v negative ground, many of the old wires may have worked when I first put juice thru them but upon removal I was very glad that I did remove them. As for oil, I changed it and ran some flushing solution then changed it again. The carb I took off tore apart soaked and put back on. It is true that I did more than you are looking to do but after everything was done I'm guessing I've logged at least 1000 miles (I did have an axle break) and am driving the car every day.
  9. What is your goal for the finish? Simple protection would be to paint it. There of course are variations of stain/varnish, or are you trying to make it look old?
  10. No magnesium here, just rock and steel "dialed in right" On the topic of fuel tanks I have friends that Very frequently deal with bad tanks, part of living on an Island with many boats. Rather than plug etc as they are dealing with aluminum and cut out bad sections or fill holes by welding. Often these tanks are in excess of 100 gallons. As preparation tanks are filled with water prior to welding then welded.
  11. My primary focus is older cars so I am well versed on the "hard to find" or non existent parts. My gripe was being quoted X amount and then having that amount change. If this is what I should expect from suppliers then I am left with 2 choices. Update or create my own parts yard. Upon opening the package today the axle had deep rust pitting and mushroomed threads that had cracked between the cotter key hole and end of the axle.
  12. The second axle showed up today and while I haven't opened it yet this was another seller disappointment. Twice I have gone to the club the first was for the distributor and the second was for the axle. On the first I was quoted x amount to do a rebuild, after mailing I was informed my polished dist housing was junk and they would need to replace it as well as additional money needed for parts like points and condensers. Needless to say I was unhappy as I was under the understanding that a rebuilt dist cost would translate to a rebuilt unit ready to go. Not a base price with parts added on. On the second was the axle most recently "I will sell it for X amount and try to ship it out Saturday with the seals in a flat rate container" On Monday I receive a call "It's going to be 50% more" so I inform him that it is out of my budget which is mostly true but also that I don't like his business practice. A few min later he calls back and agrees to sell for the original quoted price. I receive it along with the bill charged to my card along with a $75 shipping charge. Bear in mind I just had an almost identical axle WITH a portion of the diff shipped for $20. If you are wondering why clubs are failing and new members are few and far between this is a good reason. If these 2 instances are normal I will unfortunately end up tearing out/modifying the driveline
  13. Ill take them both if they are still available, should be able to ship media mail to save money
  14. Here's my rough sketch