larry butcher

Correct West! The center section of 1942 Lincolns and Continentals were a die cast ( Pot metal) ! I had several at one time. The front bumper on the '42s did not wrap around as much and the bumper guards were different. Pat , take a look at the pics on this website. Send some photos when you get a chance

Hello Pat, I see from your post --#1 , this is your 1st post on the website; welcome! This is very interesting..... because I came across the same thing back in 4th week of Dec. 1965! This is when I got into the old car hobby. I purchased what I thought was 1947 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet from a small used car lot in Essex , Maryland. When I got the car home, things did not check out just right. If you can get a hold of an early "MOTORS AUTO REPAIR MANUAL" , it will be a great help. I have a 1935-1951 edition and it states under Lincoln that the 1st . serial for '42 is H129691 and the 1st serial # for '46 H series Lincoln is H136255. I think you have ,perhaps an updated 1942 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet! My car was H131762. Are your windows vacuum controlled or elect/ hyd.? Check the top motors-are they electric or elec./ hyd? If you look down on the front crossmember on the driver's side the serial # is stamped on the cross member. You will have to lightly sand the paint/ rust off the # should be there. Also on the driver's side frame back just above the gas fill pipe, the # is stamped here also. To bad you don't have the body plate mounted on the firewall, this will give the model # and the production count. There were only 136 '42 Lincoln Continental cabriolets built before WW11. Apparently your car and my car were "updated" '42's. After the War ,anything with 4 wheels were put on the road until auto production was up and running. The 2 carb manifold is aftermarket--- but don't get rid of it!!! You may want to use it later. The '42 grille sections are all stainless steel. The same front fenders will fit. You'll find holes drilled or torched to take the post war grille sections. What hood ornament do you have ? Do you have a gold finish around your clock and speedo ? That's all for now --- Larry

In the old car hobby, any car can be restored---- with enough money and parts. The 1937 Lincoln Zephyr was a rare car and most did not survive. This car could be saved..... but with the help of a donner '37 sedan. Some time ago, perhaps 2 or 3years ago ; some one on this site was restoring a '37 coupe just like yours..... what a job! But he was making progress! If you wish to sell it , move it out of the" high wet grass" and place it in a garage or under some kind of cover so as to offer a better view. Perhaps start at ,say $2, 000 ; and go from there. Good luck--- Larry

Check the "classifieds" on this website-several to pick from. I know the '36 offered by Scott Griffin--- nice car!---Larry

Thanks, that will help when I get to it, a FEW THINGS before that!---- Larry

Abelincoln, I also have a '48 LC with the original Hydro/window lifts. How does your new setup from Speedway adapt to the original window brackets? I see how the new pump will replace the old cylinder, but not the actual hardware- Thanks--- Larry

Go on "YOU TUBE" videos', set up rebuilding Lincoln V12 engines ---hours of posts , all you will need to know. I also had a V12 sleeved, ran great for about 25- 30 years. Good Luck

Nomadman1956---What engine is in the Cabriolet? Have you got it running yet? Larry

I forgot to mention in my post above--- does your engine have the water pump deflector plates? These are 2- left & right brass sheeting pcs. that fit up in the engine behind the water pumps. These were installed at the factory ,1941 and later. They help to divert coolant back to help cool the rear cylinders . The pumps have to be removed to look in to see if they were installed. They snap in , no fasteners are required

There has been a lot of discussion on this subject. If your cooling system is really CLEAN! That is block, radiator core, good hoses( not soft or rotten) ; use thermostats. Some flat head V8 guys have said you have to slow the water flow down to let the radiator do it's cooling. Your water pumps have to be in good condition ,also. I like 160 degrees. Check with our vendors on this site. Yes ,they are not cheap.... but is anything with these V12's!!! Your thermostats sound as if they are ready for the scrap copper/ brass box. My V12's have always run warm

ALL of the advice above is good! DO NOT start the engine again ! Call the rebuilder ASAP and follow his instructions. One of my Zephyr friends years back had a similar situation and it turn ugly real quick---lawsuit, litigation etc. etc. The car owner lost the case because he messed with the engine before calling the rebuilder.

Sorry Jord, I spoke too soon; I went through every parts box in the garage and the basement. I must have sold them at a parts meet ( Lincoln) a couple years ago in Penn. Larry

You never mentioned what engine is in the '48 Cabriolet. Are the top irons all there ? This car looks like it will clean up and get it running.

Do you have at least 1 handle? If so , post a picture , I have a whole box of LZ '38-'39 handles.

Nomadman-- If these cars sit out ,they will rust! Look closely at the front of the rear fender, these were patched at the factory and then covered with the rubber stone guard. They used standard Lincoln fenders. Also, the front fenders were extended several inches , The weld is on top, you may be able feel it from underneath. Are you a "hands on guy " or are you going to have to farm everthing out? Just like the car shows on the "Motor Trend" station----- enough time and money--- any car can be restored! I really don't think anyone is reproducing patch panels now, but they may have years back. A fab shop could make up your rocker panels and you could weld in, BUT! they are not even to the ground! There is a slight arch. This was brought out in a back issue of the "Continental Comments or "The Way of The Zephyr". If you want to discuss further, "E" me at zephyr38@verizon.net Good luck--Larry

Your Cabriolet does not look that bad from WAAAAY out here in Taneytown ,Maryland! How complete is the car? Do the car have a V12? If it does , do you have the complete air cleaner? I see you have the stop light assembly. How bad are all the floors? Get it under cover as soon as possible! I purchased a '48 LC coupe about 10 years ago , it did not look as good as yours. Do you really like these cars are do you want to flip it? The spotlight is neat and you can get parts for these. The steering wheel looks useable. The old saying -- if the top goes down, the price goes up! Restore it! Good luck and keep us posted--- Larry

If you do decide to start up your Lincoln, DO NOT DO IT until you lower pan, clean out "mud", pull the intake manifold and again clean out the "mud", drop the tank and really clean it out. You will probably have to rebuild carb, rebuild or replace fuel pump. If engine oil used is unknow, use detergent 30 WT. and change it again! Replace oil filter, ( if canister) is on the engine. I ruined a V12 In a '40 Zephyr years ago by taking shot cuts. I have done the above on my '48LC coupe , and it runs great!

VAV- One more thing, from the pics that you sent your Lincoln looks like a good original car--- out of the weather, under cover, dry storage. It should clean up real good, do some maint. and drive it!

Another couple of things that may help. Your hood "spear" was used in '41, but a llittle different , '42 was single blade, '46 used "V" shape ornament. ' 47 &'48 both used your type. Check your hubcaps , , "Lincoln" was a gold script. So far nothing firm BUT for some reason the Lincoln folks at FORD decided to change the fog/ running lights to clear!! '46 and '47 were amber . 19tom40 has it right, look for the VIN on the frame. It is also stamped on frame back near gas fill pipe. This maybe covered by dirt/ or rust. Try to find or borrow a MOTORS repair manual for '35-'52. They list the starting serial #'s for each year. Welcome to the old car hobby and please join "The Lincoln- Zephy Owners Club" if you have not already.-Larry

Same as on my '48 LC Coupe. The knob looks different. I'll make an offer--- "E" mail me at zephyr38@verizon .net Thanks, Larry

One small note--- If you plan on keeping this car and perhaps other Lincoln , Mercs and Fords; invest in a good set of "flare " wrenches; that is if you have not already. With all of the different nuts on different lines these wrenches do a good job. --- Larry

Gerry, I checked the parts book and I guess you are asking about the front and rear grease retainers? These are Ford part #s- the frt. is 48- 1190 A, 2.68" O.D. and the rear are 78-1175 , 2.84" O.D. Your favorite Old Ford parts supplier should have these. JUst request they be shipped by UPS or any other than USPO. They are still way behind in PACKAGE delivery. As for removing them , I used a long screw driver or pry bar. There is a special tool with a "heel". Since the old seals are junk, you could drill a small hole and use a body and fender dent puller. As for installing the new ones, I have used a large socket and carefully tapped them in or a hard wood block. What ever, be careful and don't damage the drum!---Good luck and take your time!---Larry

Here are 2 shops that may be able to help you. Just go on the internet, they will pop up. Al Pruitt & Sons Glen Rock ,Pa. and Schwalms Babbitted Bearings Strasburg PA. Good Luck, Keep the REAL Classics on the Road! Larry

a couple things I have found out while rebuilding brakes on old Lincolns. I never cared for "glued on shoes" on my cars, I like rivets. Check the thickness of your shoe material, there are specs on this . I would have that one short shoe redone. I always have my shoes "cam ground" to match each drum- that is--- 100% shoe contact to that drum. Go back again and check ( Motors Repair Manual) major and minor adjustments. I hope this helps---Larry

I have been through this several times, with my '42 LC Cab. , '38 LZ Conv .Coupe and now my '48 LC Coupe. All are a real" bear "! Remove the top air deflection shroud. This can be installed last. Break loose the lower bolts holding the rad,These can be tightened later. The upper rad hoses can be moved back and forth , sliding on the upper tank outlets. Make sure the fan plate lines up with dowels on the fan adapter plate. The bolts are hard to install. I had to grind down a the socket to fit. The rad can be rocked a little . On the '42 there were 2 straps that were soldered to the upper tank to help hold steady. There is not much room between the fan and the rad. I hope this helps a little