larry butcher

Rex, I thought I would jump on here and give my "2cents worth" I have been restoring and playing with these cars since 1965, BUT BY ALL MEANS I DO NOT KNOW EVERYTHING!!!! There were no paint or trim codes on the car. You can find the body # on the small plate on firewall and also on lip of trunk lid. Each lid was fitted to each car. The black under the hood was a short cut on a repaint, as well as the cowl & firewall; EXCEPT some '46 LCS were '42 carry overs and 2 different colors( dash may be a different color). Back issues of "The Way Of The Zephyr" has color combos listed in articles on interiors. You may be able to get your build sheet from "The Henry Ford", records founda- tion set up for just this. Google it up . Now the car your looking at, does it have the V12? Do you want a runner or a show car? Are you looking to do full restoration? Look the car over good..... put it up on a lift or jack up and climb under. Rusted floors were always a problem. Trunk floors all seem to have a problem ,since the lid is almost horizontal and the seals would leak. Does it start up and run ok? The serial # is on the top of the frt. cross member near frame, driver's side. Also on rear frame near gas fill pipe. How complete are the trim items, such as lower trim, hood ornament, bumpers & guards. All are "pricy" later at parts sales and over the internet. That's it.... hope this helps, "E", at zephyr38@verizon.net. if anymore questions---Larry

Dan, I'am also restoring a '48 LC Coupe, #1332 . I can't seem to send pics to the forum, but can send to "E" mails. You have the lock assembly, but do not know what the striker plate looks like? I have a '41 LC Coupe trunk "ring" that I'am going to weld in to the body, They were the same . I can take pics of this on Monday and send to you. My "E" is zephyr38@ Verizon.net. Hope I can help---Larry

For Sale: used & clean '36-'38 LZ hand brake cable &conduit (P/N 86H2853.measures 69" from end to "U" clip at handle. $70 to your door( U.S.A.) U.S.P.O. M.O. only. Larry Butcher 224 Clubside Dr. Taneytown , MD. 21787 "E" zephyr38@ Verizon.net

Checked my parts books-- '36-'39 LZ used the fill tube with a sleeve nut and lead washer. Have to use a spanner type wrench to tighten. Both my '38 Conv. Coupe and a '38 LZ parts car had this. I still have the tank from the '38 parts car and that *#@ %$ sleeve is still tight. I had a '40LZ 4dr and had to drop tank, it used the fill pipe similar to your photo. A pc. of 2" radiator hose and 2 clamps worked great. Same thing on the '48 LC Coupe I'am working on now. I hope this helps someone.

I remember a short article in a past issue of TWOZ about a similar problem. Remove the air cleaner from the carb . This car had a heavy pc. of paper under the air cleaner lid dropping down on the airhorn of the carb. Just cut the air off. ALSO A friend many years ago had a similar problem with his '40 LC CAB. It would just idle great, Take it out on the road, push it hard, stumbled, died right down. Checked everything, finally checked fuel pump ( metal top) . Someone left out the thin gasket under the dome. The engine used enough gas at idle to not leak, but on demand; problem started . Replaced that gasket , ran like a "scalded cat".

On my '38, I also have that tube and I believe it is a vent tube. I don't have a vent in my gas cap. When you reinstall the fill pipe , install a new lead washer; if not it will leak

Beltfed, Forgot 1 other source--DennisCarpenter 1-800-476-9653, has it in their 2012 cat. pg.48. Listed with carb to fuel pump steel line kit. Same fittings

Hey Beltfed! This is a common part, often called the Ford fuel line nut. P/N is B- 9242/3. C& G (760-740-2400) list in their 2011 catalog. Mac's (1-877-230-9680 has it in their 2014-2015 cat. pg. 92 . It Is called fitting & ferrule gas line set. An older Ford dealer or older repair may even have garage may have it. I have used dozens of them.

Has anyone that has restored a '42-'48 LC using the V12 w/ the original air cleaner adapted or modified the air cleaner to use a modern paper filter insert( K&N?). I had an oil leak in the oil reservoir, repaired it, but there must be something better. Larry

Do you mean the rear sway bar? Do you need the generator pulley cover for '36-'38 LZs ? I make new repro covers with screws and locks-- Larry Butcher

At one time I heard FORD was completely phasing out the Lincoln, perhaps this is their last" Huraah" (sic) . On this try it would be so cool if somewhere ,almost hidden would be the original "Lincoln ('42-'48 LC) Knight's Head Logo.

Just to add to the thread, I sent away to "The Henry Ford" and received the build sheet for my 1948 LC Coupe, body #1332. serial # 8H181626. It was assembled on Feb. 17,1948 and shipped on Feb. 18, 1948 to Mahoney & Foy ( wherever that is?). I think, perhaps the Feb.17 th. date is the day they finished assembly, it must take more than 1 day to put these cars togethe. Larry

As Beltfed said , it is the rear license plate light lens holder for the 1938 Lincoln Zephyrs. These are very rare in good condition as yours looks to be.This is the 1st thing that gets "creamed" in a rear end hit.The paint can be redone. A very good gift!

John, As "flatcat" mention above, the baffle or also called "tray" HAS TO BE INSTALLED !. If this is not installed , the rotating crank will destroy the float in seconds. I recently replaced the float in my '48 LC. BTW, don't try and repair the float, it is made of sheet brass and probaley full of cracks. These are available from a vender, just check the "sources".

Flatcat, I seem to have trouble sending pics to the forum , so give me your "E" mail address and perhaps I can send a couple pics right to you--- larry

as per the parts books, there were 4 different bumpers, '36-'37, '38-'41, and '42-'48. On my '38 conv.coupe I reused the original bumpers( p/n 86H-3020).These are rather flat and rectangular. The bumper that "flatcat" sent a picture of is the "conical" 26H-3020; which was used '42-'48. When I go to the Winter parts meet in March , I'll keep an eye out for a pair for your car unless you find them before.

Hey, Hey, Hey!!!! "39 Pickup" If I recall, we may have had this conversation before at one of the winter parts meets, you were 22 and I was 11, the same age when I found my '38 short top conv. Right? Larry

Thanks Paul for posting this, I'll spread the word to my local Antique auto members;and Early Ford V8 club members. See you there!!! , Larry

Happy New Year to every club member and HV12 car owner! Perhaps this is your year you will get your "ride" on the road.... Larry

You can also get in touch with Bill Wzorek ,located in Florence Ma. He rebuilt 2 rear shocks on my '38. I don't have his phone#- sorry. Someone jump on here if you have it,thanks!

For Sale: CHRISTMAS SPECIAL!! It's not too late! These are real "stocking stuffers" '38-'39 LZ shifter Grommet(86H-701577B complete with screws-$60.00 shipping incl. in U.S.A. also '36-'38 LZ pulley cover w/ screws & locks; $35.00 shipping incl. U.S.A. ( U.S P.O. mo) Larry Butcher, 224 Clubside Dr. Taneytown, MD 21787. 1-410-756-5310 "E" zephyr38@verizon.net

Lee, Do you mean 3 pcs? Left, center, and right bars? Are they showable or are they so bad they need replating/ Larry--Taneytown MD

Beltfed, I checked my spare drums for my '38LZ and they look just like your pictures. These are the "wide 5" as used on Ford cars. They also have the 3 cooling fins(?) on the perim- ter. The other pics look to be '40 up to '48 Ford/ Merc? Larry

Dan, Your pictures are very good, and is the car primed or has it been sandblasted? I'am also working on a '48 LC Coupe( #1332). These cars were basically hand cobbled together. Your trunk is far better than is in my car. If you poke around you will noticed that it is some kind of asphalt junk from the factory. You maybe able to save the trunk floor, but some patch panels. Do you have the ss strip that goes across the back behind the spare tire?. This was used to help cover the factory seam , somewhat. One story I read it was added so they could move the car along and not spend so much labor time on leading and finishing. My '42 LC cab . did not have it. Now that seam at the cowl, you will never make that smooth because the cars have 2 different materials used here. The windshield frame is cast aluminum and the cowl is sheet steel-- 2 different expansion rates. I think the best thing is clean out completely and seal with a paintable , flexable sealer . Body shop and auto paint stores carry it. I have used a 3M product. Keep us posted on your progress and send more pictures.

John_Mc, I have removed every switch from my '48 LC that I'am working on and after wire brushing, cleaning the contacts; got them all except one door floor lamp switch to work . Even the headlamp, hearter, defroster,and ignition switch. This car sat outside for a few years. These switches were well made with good materials.