larry butcher

Scott, Always check the easy stuff first! The starter has to have a perfect ground to the engine . This area is the right side of pan at bell housing. Battery cables have to be heavy gauge suited for 6 volt, not 12 volt systems. Clean all cable connections at engine head, both sides of starter solenold, cable to starter, starter button at dash( this is just a friction fit and if poor ; you may have to run another ground from button side to car body) . Also , it would not hurt to ground the transmision case to frame. Always install a GOOD FRESH 6VOLT BATTERY; the most cold cranking amps available.After all of this , now pull the starter and have it checked out. Good Luck... Larry Butcher zephyr38@verizon.net

Beltfed, On my '38 conv. and I would say on all 38's , to remove the wiper towers, you have to remove from under the dash, hard to get to. There are to small "U" shape clips made of pot metal that are screwed into the tower with machine screws. CAREFUL! pot metal. I did not reinstall, but made new ones.Any other questions, "E" mai mel. I have had this car for over 40 years, Larry

For Sale: Chandler-Groves carb for late '38-'39 Lincoln Zephyr, $150 shipped to your door, (USA) USPO MO only Larry Butcher 1-410-756-5310 "E" zephyr38@verizon.net

Ron, In addition to the replys above, you mentioned the car has been in storage for at least 50 years; therefore YOU MUST CLEAN AND REMAKE EVERY GROUND CONNECTION IN THE IGNITION AND STARTING CIRCUITS!!!!!! Just because the connections may look good, do them over! Larry Butcher

Jeff, The pictures of the maroon '38LZ are mine sent in by a friend who is very good with sending in pics. Soon as he tells me how he did it , I'll send in more Larry Butcher

Jeff, I have done the complete brake job on my '38 conv coupe,and am now doing a compete brake job on a '48 LC. To get the best results the WHOLE job has to be done. If you can get your hands on an old MOTORS REPAIR MANUAL ,1935-1951 is good. Rivet only. We have several companies in the Baltimore area. Also, if you can have the new relied shoes "cam grounded" into "cleaned up drums"; this will help. Don't forget to check all clevis and clevis pins/cotter pins. You need every bit of mechical advantage with this set up. I find I have to adjust(minor) often. You have a heavy car and often 4 often riding in it. Larry

Hello Mssr. Bwatoe, Check parts for sale in your TWOZ, I make new pulley covers for '38-'38 LZ. see ad or "E" me at zephyr38 @verizon.net Larry Butcher #86

Ron, I'am working on the same thing right now on a '48 LC Coupe. I checked my early chassis parts list,'36-'40 , Nov 1939 and they list a 96H-2160A and a 96H-2160B connector. In this parts list there is NO LISTING for model 56 or 57( Continentals) BUT in the large and later parts book('36-'48) all models, Printed Nov 1948; they pick up the models 06H-56,57. (1940 Cont .cab & coupe) My '48 uses the "T" with a hole for a bolt. Are you restoring a 100 pt. car or just trying to repair the brakes? Did Alan send you the later "T' ? "E" mail me at zephyr38 @verizon.net if I can be of any more help--- Larry

Bill, I'll see you there, staying over thru Sat. Larry

Yes Materal, You will have to drop the exhaust crossover, perhaps break loose the exhaust pipe at cross over. I did 2 of these this pass summer, one with car on a lift and one under ; car up on blocks. I found it easlier to break loose the 2 front engine mounts , also. Remove the small button on top of the float rod,the float will come out with pan. You did remove the oil, right? Remove starter and small bracket at pan rail.I jacked the engine up in the front about 1 1/2-- 2 inches; NO MORE! While your at it drop the tie rod down .Now your ready to wiggle it out! Have fun! I did the one on my'48 LC coupe in about 95 degrees! Good Luck! Larry Butcher

Tom, I would like to talk to you if possible, All sounds good ; My phone # is 1-410-756-5310. My "E" is zephyr38@verizon.net Thanks , Larry Butcher

Tom, Were you planning to drop tank? I would really be interested if overall condition is goodas the outside bottom. The sending unit not real important, leave it in. These tanks were rectangular but more like a trapozoid(spelling?) How much more for shipping, I live in Maryland ? Larry

Tom K, What condition is the gas tank in. I need a restorable tank for my 48 LC coupe Thanks , Larry Butcher

Glenn, Strange that you should ask that question! I'am right now cleaning and painting the air cleaner to my '48 LC coupe. I had to solder a pinhole in the lower pan that holds the oil. The upper chamber , I'am going to soak in kerosene for a week and let drain for about a week. Perhaps a dry filter from some other car could be installed in the lower chamber. A friend of mine has a number of "flea market" dry filters. I'll check with him . Remind me in a couple of weeks how it worked out Larry Butcher ( zephyr38@verizon.net)

I just checked the fog lights on my '38 conv coupe ,and they are Unity brand;could be #5. they measure (glass lens) about 5 3/4 " . These are short back , about 4 1/2" The lens are verticle design. Light bulb , not sealed beam. These were generaly used mid '30s up to late 30's. If you can get a hold of the 1937 Ford Book, available thru The Early Ford V8 Club, they run a section on these lamps. I hope this helps Larry Butcher

Well here is my "2 bits" I agree with a lot Tom Overfield said. I have been in the LZOC since 1986 , charter # 86 . When I started my 1st car , a 1942 LC cab I joined the LCOC, that lasted until about 1972 or 1973 when that club seem to be going in a different direction. I'am a "hands on " type of car guy and so was my mentor , Tom Learch. It took me 32 years to finish my 1938 LZ conv. coupe, and what did I do at the age of 69; I bought a sad 1948 LC coupe and here we go again ! Several nights this summer I have worked un- til 11:30 pm trying to save this part of Autumotive History. Enough about me, if the club is going to continue, we need more "hands on " type of members. I feel the hobby is about the cars , not the money . It is a great feeling to hear a HV12 engine come back to life after so many years neglected. Sorry if I ramble on, I think I used "4 bits" Larry Butcher

Jim, The 3rd picture of the group looks just like the air cleaner on my ' 38 conv coupe. I 'ave had the car for 38 years and is totally restored. The air cleaner came with the car. Any more questions let me know . Larry Butcher (E) zephyr38@verizon .net

Keith L. Saw your "thread", I purchased all of the interior plastic parts from John Moglia years ago and all are installed on my '38 conv coupe. I have no spares, sorry. My original pcs. were shot. Your color looks good( sort of ivory). Is anyone making the brass plated insert that the window riser and door opener bear on? I installed my without. They bear right on the plastic. I'll look again in the old boxes and see what I have . Larry

Thanks Peecher for your reply about the '48 LC gas tank, I have not dropped it down yet , if it is hopeless, I'll check for something on the East coast ;first. Thanks again Larry

I recently obtained a 1948 LC Coupe that "needs help" . The engine has been rebuilt sometime ago. This is my 4th Lincoln since 1965. I may not totally re- store this car, but would like to get it running. A previous owner pulled it from a barn by lifting the rear end with a fork lift. The gas tank maybe beyound re- pair. The question is ..... is there a gas tank that is similar in size and shape that I could adapt to this car. I know the fill and e xit line would have to be changed and perhaps the sending unit modified. Most of my experience has been with '38-39 LZ. My 1st Lincoln was '42 Cab. in 1965 . That tank was good,just needed cleaning and coating. Thanks

Paul, Read about your starter problem and all of the replys were good . One other thing that may have been overlooked , and that is this . Thhere is a small bracket; P/N 51A-11140 that attaches to one of the starter bolts and then attaches to the pan , using one of the pan bolts. This part is in the Lincoln parts book and is available from several Ford parts suppliers. Price is about $ 4.50- $ 4.95. Don't leave it out, it helps to keep starter in line. Larry Butcher

Jeff, I know what you mean about detail. It took me 34 years to finish my '38 LZ Conv coupe. Some time ago I was looking thru a 2008 Dennis Carpenter Ford tractor parts catalog ,looking for cross over part #s that will fit our Lincolns. WHOA! what is this? A Lincoln #! There it was 86H-14321-A ,Battery cable to starter solenoid rubber cover. I checked my Lincoln parts books, and there it was. Used on 36-48..The tractor engineers thought perhaps , why develop something new, lets see whats in the inventory. Carpenter lists it for $12.00 plus shipping( 2008) Their web is www.dennis-carpenter.com ph: 704-786-8139 good luck Larry

Hello Phil, sorry I missed you at Hershey. I was on the show fld (20E) wth my '38 conv. most of the day. Give me call sometime ,410-756-5310 or "E" at Zephyr38@verizone. net. I may have some parts you need-larry

'40-'41 connie, Has anyone replied yet to your question on steel gas line? If not, I checked the size that I used on my '38 LZ. It is 1/4" O.D. If you have not removed the line from the firewall, measure the distance from the end down to where it disappears under the firewall. This measurement will allow the proper slack for the flex line to connect to fuel pump. Mac's (800-777-0948 ) sells the line with the brass fittings attached ,14 foot. All of the pictures(factory) in the TWOZ , show this painted car color. Also might be a good time to hide a electric fuel pump down on the frame ahead of the tank, not 100% correct for judging ; but helps to start after sitting and possible help with vapor lock. The mechanical pump will draw thru the electric pump. Add a switch under dash. Don't run the electric all the time!!! This has worked for me since 1975 LARRY bUTCHER

Mssr.Bwatoe, I tried to answer you several days ago, but with this new format I did something wrong. I have owned and driven 3 HV12 Lincoln Continentals and Zephyr since 1965. They were built to drive! I have finally finished restoring (2004) a1938 Conv Coupe, 3 passenger.Purchased in 1972. It has the HV12 , 4:44 rear; no Columbia rear. I take it to a show about one every weekend. I use back roads here in Maryland. The best speed that feels good is 53-55 mph. Anything higher , it sounds like the engine is going to scatter. I do not have a trailer and only a v6 Ford 150. So it gets driven. I still run light bulbs in the head lights and the brakes are complete rebuilt mechanical (cable). I did add hidden turn signals(led lamps 6v)So drive it and change the oil! Larry