1912Staver

I never really considered the street rodder's solution to wood body problems on a on a car like a 90 series Buick. I was suggesting what would be needed to return the car to factory condition. There are always work arounds to serious problems if you are willing to deviate from original techniques and specifications . If you are just looking to make it drivable than why not ? Not so sure about the defeatist part however , just outlining how to rebuild a very complicated wood structure body and have things actually fit and function. GM didn't make any part of this body without first having a technical drawing in hand. Greg

One of the big problems with sedans this far gone is the lack of original wood parts for patterns. If the doors are going to fit correctly, open , close and latch securely the new wood has to be a 99 % at least dimensional duplicate of factory. Without more or less intact original wood to work from any wood worker you hire is forced to guess on many important dimension decisions. In the end things won't fit, doors will rub on the body, doors will fly open going over bumps etc. Any wood worker skilled enough to handle a job like this also knows this is a job to steer clear of . Unless of course there is a budget large enough to draw up a set of detailed plans and solve all the problems before any sawdust is created. Those plans would be a major undertaking in themselves, and need the services of a draftsman or engineering tech , not a woodworker, although a draftsman with a good woodworking background wouldn't hurt. You need to find someone with a better example of this car that is partially apart; interior removed at least, and take hundreds of photo's /drawings and record every conceivable dimension, angle of joints. method of morticing , dove tailing etc. Otherwise it's just not going to end well. Without semi intact, original wood or a very detailed technical drawing you are lost. Greg

They are possibly meaning Mercer " Raceabouts "specifically . It has long been suggested that a number of todays raceabouts started life as other less sporting models . Same situation with Stutz Bearcats. Greg

I was very surprised by a" stock footage " scene in an episode I saw a couple of months ago. It was I think City Hall or a similar building and was very old. If you paused it and had a good look there were late 1920's / early 1930's cars in the parking lot. They were quite small as it was a distance shot but a far older piece of film than the show. I guess whoever edit's the show figured that no one would notice during the 3 or 4 seconds the clip was onscreen. Greg

Sorry for the confusion, I meant in addition to the General forum post. Greg

If you are posting about really early cars a similar or duplicate post in the Brass Era forum way down near the bottom in addition to a General post can't hurt. Greg

The other way to tell a 1916 / 17 from a 18 or later is the shape of the rear door. 1916 / 17 had a slightly shorter wheel base and the rear door has a cut away curve for the rear fender curve. 1918 and newer have the full rounded rectangle rear doors and the single exposed hinge Greg

If you do go the auction route I have a suggestion. Pull out all the early stuff{ pre 1920 } and advertise it on the forum. At auction there is a good chance it will simply sell for scrap unless you are very lucky in who attends the auction. All the larger wheel rims { over 21" } have a slow but steady market . I have a good catalog for rim I.D. that I could copy for you. Mid teens up to about 1930. Highly unlikely that anyone at an auction will pay more than a few $ for a unidentified rim but one at a time to someone who needs them they are decent money makers. Early car guys are spread out thinly all over the place. At best only a handful will be able to attend your auction, on the forum you have potential to reach many of them. I still am extremely attracted to your March ! At my age it's too much car for wheel to wheel racing , but man what a practice night / track day car ! Greg

The right hand drive cars are McLaughlin's ; or at least McLaughlin built, so lots of small trim differences from Buick. They were possibly badged as Buicks depending on the marketing arrangements in particular export markets. Nickle plated steering column is normal on a McLaughlin. And it probably has right side shift like the red NZ car above. The single , lower rear , exposed door hinge is a give away . I can't think of any other car that has this arrangement apart from 1918 - 21, 5 pas. Buicks / McLaughlin's. Greg

Possibly a bit better. but you are still feeding the restriction to spring movement into the front spring U bolt. Some of the post 1915 Stutz's mount them on the outside, and no doubt others as well. If nothing else the outside mounting would prevent knocking your knuckles on them when crank starting. Greg

Any idea what the L head engine furthest away in this shot is ? The one with what looks like a section of frame still attached . What sort of a price ? Greg

Sports body on a small Fiat ? Not sure if they had 3 bolt wheels like this one. Or perhaps something French. It does not look North American to me. Greg

I will try those pages again. The type B rims are what these early trucks generally use. Greg

The road manners you describe make me wonder if they had anything to do with the low sales of the late White cars ? Would you rate a similar year Pierce or other same price range car as being more novice friendly ? White had to have a large amount of capital invested in the production of these cars, but it almost had to have been a money loosing proposition. It's a good thing their truck were very popular. Greg

A couple of photo's of a Mercer with Hartford shocks. The lower mounts are the same sort as on the rear shocks of my Staver. The upper mount is a bolted to the frame channel bracket. Greg

The other question mark is time. I only had access to ebay { not anymore, until the virus restrictions are lifted } I tried to buy a simple owners manual for one of my sports cars last week , the postage was going to be $29.00 U.S.. Barely bigger than a envelope with a letter. The so - so condition , original owners manual was going to end up costing twice as much as a brand new , good quality re- print. And the Pacific North West swap meets. Also not currently available . What I now have took 20 years of looking. How many years do you have to put a set together ? For someone with access to the major swap meets I am sure the time would be substantially reduced, but still probably at least a few years. I am sure there are people like myself with at least some spare parts, but it seems most people are looking for the same parts. Probably the re - pro's are the most practical as long as the quality is decent. Greg

A.O. Smith and Parish were the biggies in frame production. Did G.M. even have its own frame plant by the later 1950's ? I know I have seen notes in G.M. factory parts books regarding if the part needed was for a Smith or Parish frame. So on some vehicle lines there must have been contracts awarded to both company's . Greg

Ed should look for a White steamer to keep his Botha company. Greg

I am a few hundred miles to the North of you but we are getting a lot of smoke from the Washington and Oregon fires. Truly horrible situation you are all facing. My hopes are that you all come through this ordeal safely. Please do look out for each other. Very much hoping to hear John is safe. Greg

Mike, do you know who made your steering box ? Chances are Republic bought in the steering gear complete , pitman arm to steering wheel. The top controls were most likely used on a number of other vehicles besides your particular model of Republic. Do you have any photo's from another truck to give us an idea of what the controls should look like ? Greg

There was a gent in the Portland area who did wood wheels, always had a display at the swap meet. Last time I talked to him, 3 or 4 years ago he was thinking about retiring or downsizing to just Model T wheels. . He may have retired by now . Greg

I have one of this style , and quite a nice one. I have been looking for a mate to use on my front axle, but I am now thinking this type was introduced several years after my 1912 car was built. Anyone have a better idea of the date ? Most of the ads I see for these ones are around 1919 and later. It may eventually be for sale or trade. Greg

I have a feeling the ebay shocks might be this type , intended for Ford T's Greg

A pair on ebay at the moment , but I believe this style is a bit later than Brass era. Early 20's perhaps. I think there is one of these in my missing box of parts shocks. Greg https://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Arm-HARTFORD-SHOCKS-RAJO-FRONTY-Dirt-Car-SPEEDSTER-BRASS-CAR/233704238489?hash=item3669dbad99:g:b-MAAOSwmZpfVFbJ

Here is part of what I have. The box from the swap meet is playing hard to find. If it's out in my garage it may be some time until I find it. When my father downsized 2 years ago all his large workshop full of stuff ended up in my garage. These parts are mainly the ones for the rear of my Staver. But as you can see there are two arm lengths { 7 " and 8 1/2 "} and wide and narrow end bushing widths. My best 2 arms { the shock that is still together } have narrow end bushings. I need the wide style. I would trade these arms for the correct wide bushing arms , but if nothing shows up I will turn up new bushings and braze as needed. The one inner I have with the correct width bushing is quite rusty and the short 7" length. The two already modified arms at the top could substitute with further modifications Notice the inner pivot bush with the small projections, it's the only one I have, but I expect I will have to make a full set of them. Also notice my u bolts only 1 of the 4 are anywhere near re- usable so new ones will also have to be made. All in all I think I have the rear shocks in hand , the front are another story. Like I say if anyone has decent condition , long {8 1/2 " } wide end bushing arms surplus I am willing to buy or trade. The U bolts are Staver only so I doubt anyone has them sitting on a shelf. 4 have the shock mounts , 4 are plain, without the mounts. Full elliptical springs on the rear so 8 u bolts. Greg