1912Staver

It's been about 5 years since I have been able to attend. { I went virtually every year for the 25 years before that } It looks like prices on project cars have taken a big jump. I used to see quite a few that seemed very reasonable / tempting. I thought everyone has been saying you can't give project cars away ?

I often run into reasonably priced top boxes. I have at least 6 or 7 now. 3 quite vintage { 1950's } Snap on, and a later 60's Snap On , plus a good sized Proto { 70's ? } and the Craftsman I bought new when I started as a mechanic in the later 1970's. and probably more in dark corners of my storage shed. All the used ones were $100.00 or less. Bottom cabinets seem to cross my path much less often. I only have 3 . The matching Craftsman I bought new during my start as a mechanic. And two 1960's / 70's Snap On's I bought second hand. They were also both under my $100.00 favored trigger point. Most of my top boxes live on workbenches.

Hi Art, I don't think any body parts interchange. The 6 is quite a bit bigger car. I doubt very much at all is the same between a 4 and a 6. Are your hood latches a steel tube with a threaded on , brass casting ,hook / handle ? I don't really have any spares, but if you have the casting the other parts are something that could be made. Do you have a parts book ? I might have a 1916 6 parts book to compare part numbers. Unfortunately I am in the process of moving so everything is getting packed up. If you can find a cheap reprint 6 Cyl. parts book it might be something handy to have. Or try the guys in the pre war Buick section of the forum. Someone will have a parts book for sure.

That a very nice car ! Hope it stays in our area. Way out of my price range unfortunately.

And it's probably a good idea to use some heat as well. I have an old slow cooker that I bought at the thrift store for $5.00. Fill with ATF and imerse the carb body. If you have a trans shop nearby they will probably give you a gallon of used fluid for free, otherwise just buy new although even the off brand stuff is getting pricy. Put the body through a few cycles of heating and cooling over a few days. With any luck the ATF will work its way down in between the venturi and the carb body. It will give your puller a fighting chance of doing the job. { preferably in the open, some of the ATF will gas off and stink up your shop otherwise}.

It's Vancouver B.C. This photo was recently featured in the local Vintage Car club newsletter. 822 Seymour Street. It's from the city of Vancouver archives. Prime real estate these days. All massive skyscrapers . In the 1970's when I was a teen a good number of buildings from this time still survived, only a small handfull have made it to the present day. I barely recognise the West end of Vancouver anymore. This is what it looks like these days.

I still have one as well. Not sure if it's a right or left. If you are interested I will dig it out and post some photo's. Reasonable condition , but some scrapes and one gouge.

Yes , the last 5 are when the previous owner mocked it up in preperation to offering it for sale. Some of what is shown is no longer with it. The gas tank and engine . That engine was a incorrect engine from another make that did not fit the frame even remotely closely. I need an engine from a sub frame car. I have quite a bit of the engine but no crankcase, cams, followers, timing gear's etc. Or something like a Wisconsin from a F.W.D. truck if I am going to go the substitute engine route. I have a different tank. There are boxes and boxes of small parts. A really big jigsaw puzzle with about 25 % of the pieces missing.

Yes, both dreams and nightmares. No current photo's, but here is a link to my flickr page. It's even more apart now. Mostly boxed up for my move to a new house. I hate moving , and this one is after 27 years in the same place. It's going to be my full time job for some months to come. Just click on this photo and it will take you there. Not sure why the link looks like this. The yellow roadster is not my car ! { I wish }. The Wigglesworth roadster , currently on display at Owl's Head.

They do get dull. From time to time I have found new or just like new ones at swap meets for pennies on the dollar. Look at a new file vs a decades old one. The difference should jump out at you.

TR 7's are pretty decent cars to drive. But the engine and 4 speed gearbox really let it down. { the later 5 speed cars fixed 1/2 the problem. } TR 8's are good cars in nearly every regard. Any really good TR 7 survivor can easily be either turned into a TR 8 or fitted with a GM V6 and 5 speed. Either route works well. Stag's have a lot more problems. The V8 version of the engine is if anything even worse than the 4 cyl { overheating then warped heads }. The 7's and 8's would be future candidates for ownership in my eyes, the Stag I will leave for others.

The cars that I used to almost be able to afford. Facel HK 500's, Maserati 3500"s , Aston Martin DB series cars up to and including DB4 's and at least a dozen more { early GT 350's anyone ? }. They were all cheap enough that one time that I really just had to get a few things settled in my life and I would own one. Then back to Uni, a career change and a house put it all on hold for a decade or so. Lost track of prices over that time and next thing I knew all those $5,000.00 - $8,000.00 , somewhat down at the heals examples were $75,000.00 - $125,000.00 and climbing fast. Don't hate them, but it's gotton to the point that I pay them ZERO attention . If ownership can only come about through a Lottery win , what's the point ?

Your tag reads 23 - 48. That means the car is a 1923 , Model 48. The last year for the " cage valve " style engine. Head is non - detachable . One piece head and cylinder block. The valves are mounted in small , seperate casting's that can be individualy removed. Also last year for rear wheel only brakes. 1924 had many changes, 4 wheel brakes, detachable head .

Is it a 4 Cyl or a 6 ? If it is a Coupe / hardtop , it could be a roadster with a removable " California " style top. Pictures ? Also what is the wheel size and wheelbase ?

The basic problem is just what qualifies as a " make " ? A close look at the Standard Catalog { Kimes , Clark and others } shows many " makes " that either had no real production, or production in very small numbers. And in quite a few cases very little documentation has survived so things like production numbers for early cars can be quite unreliable. Look at aircraft for example. In the 1970's quite a few WW2 era aircraft types were thought to be extinct. But one by one a number have been recovered from lake bottoms or very remote crash sites and boosted the number of known surviving aircraft types. I expect a similar process is happening with early cars as well.

British Columbia has a very hobby car friendly system. You can get conventional " Antique " plates. Same plate stays on the car once issued and only a small cost. But restricted to very limited use, Club events , etc. Then there is a " Collector " plate. You have to have a regular plate issued to another car as well . But a big discount vs the normal yearly insurance cost. No driving to and from work, and the car must be in quite decent condition. Photo submission required to get approval . And most recently a " Modified Collector " plate . Similar to the " Collector " plate , but the requirement of factory stock condition is dropped. Takes in everything from a set of aftermarket wheels to Street Rods and beyond. British Columbia has a Gov. insurance system, Plate and insurance are all in one. Optional coverage , theft , special value etc can be sold by a conventional insurance carrier, but the basic liability coverage has to be from the Gov. program.

Home made body for sure. But the chassis could be up to about 1916 or possibly even a couple of years newer. Oakland used those " 3 / 4 " rear springs up to at least 1916. By 1914 several makes had switched to LHD.

Yes, later rims. A very sensible change for a car that is going to get a reasonable amount of use. { In my opinion. } They would look out of place on a say 1910 "show queen ", but the later brass rad cars are reasonably common. So why not set them up for using.

Have you checked with David Lockard ? He is the center of the Packard truck universe.

That's a very interesting piece of information. This information is not the same as the process as described on the U.S. Customs website. I followed a very similar process when I Exported from the U.S. / Imported to Canada a couple of race cars just before the COVID Border shut down. They are both " built as Racing only vehicles " right from the factory and would have never have been titled or used as anything but track only cars. The U.S. Border Agent who handles all the vehicle Export transactions in my area told me that if they had been regular production vehicles that had been modified for racing the normal Title requirement for any road use , production vehicle would still apply. But as they were off road , racing cars right from day one a bill of sale was the necessary document. He also confirmed that he follows the process as detailed on the official website for any and all regular , production vehicles. Perhaps I need to start using a different " Port of Entry ". Alberta ?

That looks like a very usefull tool , if you have a car from this era.

Tools for applying hot patches to tires and tubes. Used to be every swap meet I attended would have a number for sale, but lately they don't seem to be as common. I expect they are very slow sellers. Practically an every week use item for 1920's motoring.

Are you sure you are measuring correctly to come up with that 5 on 6 " PCD ?

Ed, they are automotive. But from a somewhat earlier era than what you seem to deal with . But I am sure they found their way onto lots of other machines besides cars.

They were a reasonably common accessory. But in some cases a factory fitment or option. Pretty much any car that had an exposed , rotating shaft { water pump drive , generator drive etc } could be fitted with one. Early / mid teens onward. Saved time and effort compared to a regular hand operated tire pump. Flats and roadside repairs were a very frequent part of motoring in this era.