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  2. No offense to the person who built it as they did a very good job building it, though it just is unfortunately just "off" enough to substantially hurt its value.
  3. All, This is the car I bought Thursday night. I have informed RM Auctions of my concerns that this is not an authentic car as represented per their "Twenty Day Window for Rescission of Sale due to Material Misrepresentation" clause. I would never have bought the car had I know this was a "tribute" car as both RM Auctions and the Merrick Museum "Verification Certificate" indicate it is an authentic 1925 Buick Model 25S Standard Six Sport Touring car. Please let me know what you saw that indicates this car is not authentic and is a "tribute" car. Any Pictures, descriptions, etc. that I can use to prove this to RM Auctions GREATLY appreciated. Thank you! So glad I joined the BCA. Cheers, Carl Carl Carlson 617-877-9660
  4. She offered me a grease job every 1000miles, I said my Chrysler needs it every 500miles. I haven't heard back yet...😁
  5. The Model A and 1935 Ford Phaeton both look amazing. Are those legit viable options? Where would be a good place for me to look to buy one and/or test drive? Who can help me evaluate the condition and price of the vehicle?
  6. Do people who drive cars like that even have friends?
  7. Thanks for the reply! My wife drives a newer mazda and I have a Camry with 150K miles. Given I drive so little, I'd like to get rid of the Camry as it is starting to need many repairs. It doesn't need to be too old but I really like the look of the metal bodied vehicles from the 50's. It doesn't need to be stock or original at all. I've heard of something called a restomod which incorporates modern features into an older vehicle. That actually sounds ideal. LA city driving is low speed, lots of stop and go. That's really good to know. Is there a place where I can maybe test drive some options? What's a good way to get a vehicle I'm considering purchasing to be checked out and properly valued? I'm happy to hire a mechanic to do this if that option even exists.
  8. Friends swear by their Model A Fords in LA - say they do well in traffic, do well up to 45 mph (which is as fast as they usually go in traffic), often get to valet park right in front at no charge, parts availability in a day, and ... They have a 1935 Ford Phaeton for road trips. I heard wild talk of a 50's 2 seat Thunderbird possibly in their future.
  9. Lubed the valves and set out to gas up and hunt color. Stopped for a bright yellow tree, and then didn't get too much farther than the REAL gas station. Sundays you will always run in to a car guy or two. Yap, yap, yap, yap, yap, yap, yap. We all know how that goes. At least there was a little color at the gas station. Andrew with the mini was so fascinated with the '24 Cad, that I took him for a pretty good ride. I guess I might as well post these pictures to prove someone was out this weekend. - Carl
  10. Hi there. Some things I'm not quite clear on: Will this be your only car? You've come to the AACA forum, and mentioned 40's era cars, so you're looking for a collectable or vintage car- How old does it have to be? How stock/original does it have to be? Most people have their collector cars as second cars, and I presume you will too, but if not, that would be difficult to deal with. A modern car is a good thing to have, too. As old collector cars in original configuration go, the more recent the car is, the more usable for transportation it is. I have no idea what city driving in LA is like, but I hear horror stories. 1940's Fords in stock form will not have the acceleration, power or stopping ability that's conducive to city driving even in places much smaller than LA. Purely in terms of function, I'd look for something something later (American cars from the late 1950's on), but a stock 40's era Ford will be fine for recreational driving on less traveled routes. Many people at the AACA forum aren't big on street rods. Having said that, many people new to old cars don't realize that a lot of street rods are built more to be usable in modern traffic than to be race cars. Whether original or street rod, you will be working on this car a lot, at least in the price range you're talking about (generally speaking.) $15 K will get someone a nice car, but maybe not one where all major components have been nicely restored. If I were you, and if function is as big a requirement as you suggest, I'd look at cars from the early '60's on. If you want the '40's look, you could consider a mildly rodded vehicle, but I don't honestly know what 15K will get you. BTW, it's my perception that most collectable old (pre - 1973) cars for sale online are routinely priced significantly above their realistic value. Good luck.
  11. Wait 'till they're told you have to have a special license to drive a tandem axle vehicle. At least in California.
  12. Has anyone ever put the tissue accessory in a console shifter 1966 Riviera?
  13. OK OIB: I used Falcon Globol. Very good. Mitch
  14. Hello, I too received a message from this woman :/
  15. Brake and Clutch (Seattle WA) and Brake and Equipment (Minneapolis MN) come to mind.
  16. Today
  17. Those brackets appear to be Ford Model A windwing brackets. Reproductions are readily available online. Larry is correct - the windshield stanchions should have a boss at windwing mount locations. Kevin
  18. Narve, The oxalic acid is very mild with 1kg dissolved in 10 liter. It does not eat metal like Hcl. After two days flushing at 30 to 40 degrees temperature the rust was gone. Initially there was an air pocket in the block, so when I checked after one day the difference was really clear. Strangely after rinsing with soda, the metal turns green, cannot get it of not even with a high pressure washer. The cilinder head was put in a tank without heating and came out nicely. The oxalic acid is easily available, it is used for cleaning wood that blackened due to water. The way you cleaned the fedco plate was great, i will try mine asap. Chris
  19. Just because a person is disabled does not give them the right to drive their vehicle recklessly, and I have been wondering what disability specifically requires a person to ride a bicycle for mobility? or a mini bike? Anyone know? I fully agree with the ADA laws and their purpose, but that should not exempt anyone from operating the equipment their physician prescribes them to use in an unsafe manner. if a person has a handicapped hang tag on their car does that allow them to drive above the speed? or park where they want? The end of events like this is going happen and and it will be due to be someone getting severely hurt with a massive lawsuit to all the parties involved. This has to be regulated and controlled before someone really gets hurt
  20. Yes, I just read about this PVC system in General Discussion under Cadillac Top Speed.......😉
  21. Hi - first time poster here. I'm looking for a new car and was hoping to solicit some recommendations based on my preferences. I'm quite flexible but here are a few specs to inform the recommendation. * Budget $15K * I live in Los Angeles and need something that can handle city driving * I drive on average ~25-40 miles total a week - usually on the low end. * I prefer something that is relatively reliable and easy to work on when necessary * Would prefer something I don't have to give white glove treatment to I've seen some 1940's Ford Deluxe that look pretty cool and are stated to be in good running condition. But I don't really know enough about cars yet to know if this is good for my needs. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  22. I'm adding to the wishlist here. Holley/MSD just recently came out with a coil-on-plug driver system that uses their distributors with a blank cap. I think having two LS coils on each side of the valve cover breather with some type of throttle body injection would really wake this old 322 up. I guess if you take the MSD nailhead distributor and gut it with replacement hall effect stuff on the inside, all the billet bases are the same so you just throw the blank cap on there. Then you can have either one of their Sniper units or a stand alone coil driver fire the plugs with a programmable map. I think I've just about given up on doing dual quads at some point. The air cleaner really completes the engine and I just think it would look silly without it. I thought about the Chevy/Cadillac/HEMI dual quad air cleaner but there's no guarantee it will fit and its pretty massive. I think the only thing that would cause me to give up the original air cleaner would be a McCulloch supercharger setup, but good luck finding one of those.
  23. Just have your shoes relined. Several places around to do it, probably not where you live, but within shipping distance.😉
  24. Good ! That is the right decision. - Carl
  25. All the large Buicks of 41 had an optional compound carb setup avai;able , not just the Century. It was the carb option that I was refering to not be available after the war. For the poster who said a lot of 1930s European cars would top 100mph. I would like to say tjat there were a lot of 30s and even some 20s American cars that would do it. That changed when they stopped when they stopped making Duesenbergs, Marmons, Auburns,Cords, Pierce Arrows. and I imagine a lot of 12 cylinder Packards and 12 and 16 cylinder Caddies plus other cars I have forgotten or don't know about. I learned to drive on a 41 Century with compound carbs, I don't know what had been done to it but in 51 and 52 when we had it , It idled smoothe as silk and was still on of the faster cars on the road. There is nothing inherently more powerful about a V8 than a straight eight and the straight eight always has better balance and less vibration.
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