All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Hello, It is an Automatic, with a 3L V6 - convertable hard top.
  3. Finally got the Motor back together and it ran about 2 minutes and the Oil Pump Shaft Seized up. The washer under the pump shaft got on top of the pin that holds it in place. This happened when I replaced the low distributor with the high distributor housing. Thanks to a member of the Franklin Club I got a replacement shaft and it fixed the problem. I was fortunate that the only damage was the oil pump gear. The cam gear destroyed the oil pump gear and not the gear on the cam that drives it..
  4. Very old post, but a good question. I'll list the differences I can recall. The Style 1 was an 1899, the Style 2 came out in 1900 Differences: Stlye 1 center tiller steering Style 2 Side tiller steering Style 1 Mason model 70 engine Style 2 Locomobile designed their own engine with many upgrades Style 1 13" boiler Style 2 14" boiler Style 1 150 psi max pressure Style 2 250 psi max steam pressure, respectively, 3-1/2 horsepower and 6 horsepower Style 1 flat horseshoe bracing around the differential Style 2 round bar horseshoe bracing around differential Style 1 Single acting brake which only operated going forward Style 2 double acting brake which also operated in reverse. Style 1 25 1/2" body base width Style 2 28-1/2" body base width Style 1 51" wheeltread or stance Style 2 54" wheeltread. Style 1 Bolts through the lower rear springs Style 2 replaced these with U-bolts Style 1 Had no bracing in the lower rear axle tubes Style 2 angular cast in bracing was added Wheelbase was the same on both at 58". Same gear ratios, same springs, same wheels and tires. That is all the changes I can think of offhand. -Ron
  5. As far back as 1923 this emblem appears in photos. Earlier photos show a plainer emblem.
  6. All, Finished mounting the new Houk wire wheels and spare on to the car this week. Had to redo two spare front hubs because of a problem with bearing races in the remachined ones. Getting races to match hundred year old bearings can be a challenge. I solved it by using old races from old hubs which were in excellent shape. Note that on Kissel Kars of this time frame, the front tires are to be smooth while the tears are to be “non-skids”. I know it oops goofy, but it is exactly as it’s supposed to be. Also have mounted all the seats and done what pedal adjusting is possible without driving. Mounting horn was also accomplished - Spartan Model J is the correct horn for this car. Monday, April 22, 2019, we will fire her up and test drive I for awhile. I hope like hell that all my wiring is correct! Ron Hausmann P.E.
  7. Hello, I am looking for running boards and possibly doors (the bottom 3" on mine are gone). The car is an 8cyl and I'm trying to put it back together. Any help or leads would be appreciated! thanks Tony 814.330.4986
  8. Hollanders info: // Starter S462 and S533 use same drive gear. #46217 Stude 1924 for cars , EM, Lt 6, if W 25-26 Std 6. //////
  9. 1942 - 48 Ford Battery Hold Down. $ 25 For more information or photo's give me a call. 406-543-2591
  10. Last visited Feb 20. Best quote something so an email is sent.
  11. Any Marmon folks out there who might have some original Marmon lit from the brass era? Need to try and figure out what kind of sidelamps were used. There is a brass sidelamp restoration question on the general forum and it was suggested they used Indiana brand lamps, since it was a nearby company. I personally have never seen Indiana branded lamps used on Marmons, but will leave that up the the Marmon experts. Thanks Terry
  12. 1942 - 48 Ford Axle Bumpers. $25 For more information or photo's give me a call. 406-543-2591
  13. Do what JohnD1956 suggested. Get a voltmeter or test light and with the ignition on, put one then the other lead on the meter on one coil post and the other to ground. Any voltage? If not, the ignition switch could be the problem. If you do have voltage, then remove the distributor cap and check if the points are opening and closing when you crank the engine. Clean the point contacts with a file and re- gap the points. Put the high voltage wire from the coil near a ground source and open and close the points with the ignition on and you should see a health spark.
  14. Five 1928 Cadillac Wooden Wheels in Good Condition. Wheels are complete with Brake Drums, Bearings, Rims, Lug Nuts and Bolts and Hubcaps. The Wheels came off my Car when I changed to Wire. The unpainted wheel does not have bearings. I also have an additional Rim. Asking $1500 for All. Mike DeFelice 845-853-2563
  15. Twin6, Where is this Locomobile roster in which you referenced?? You don't happen to be Mike C? -Ron
  16. 1946 Ford Headlights Lt & Rt. $35 Each For more information or photo's give me a call. 406-543-2591
  17. It would be interesting to pin it down. I've never seen the Marmon name on Indiana lamps, but of course that doesn't mean Marmon didn't purchase some from the local company. The Marmon was a high-end car and the Indiana lamps were a lesser quality lamp so I'd not really think they would have used that brand. I have seen Marmon photos from the 1910s time frame and they appear to be Solar lamps on them. Perhaps we can get Sam Barnett to chime in and figure it out. Terry
  18. looking for radiator shroud and horn ring mine is broken thanks and new to the site 262-995-8544 Andy thanks!
  19. I collect old cast steel steps from early cars (horseless carriages) and buggy steps that have names inscribed in them. I recently acquired a step that says "Maxwell". I would like to know which model car it was used on and year(s) of production. Thanks, Erni
  20. 1946 Ford Battery Box Cover. $35 For more information or photo's give me a call. 406-543-2591
  21. Frank, I have shipped several things I have sold on e-bay overseas and International 1st Class Postage through the United States Postal Service is very reasonable. An Owner's Manual is very small and light so it should not be that costly. This service is provided for sellers on e-bay and is very simple for them to do through e-bay. They should be able to easily accommodate you. Check with the seller before you buy the item about the overseas shipping and how they would do it. If they give you trouble about doing this find a different seller. Bill
  22. Today
  23. My experience is painting wood spoke wheels, but the technique should be the same. As has already been mentioned, for good coverage all around, paint from all sides-especially the back. I used one of the small touch up gun for better control. I had a spare container ready to go for a quick-chance on my final coat of black and found there was sufficient paint to do two wheels. To spin them, as others have suggested, I used a couple of pieces of angle iron and mounted spare spindles in them, then mounted wheels on some spare bearing sets I had. I mounted my iron "axle" in my old Black and Decker workmate. I spun them by hand by simply sticking a finger into the valve stem hole and giving them a pull. It kept them moving just fine while I painted. With this method I could stop and inspect my work as I painted to ensure good coverage. A few more turns spinning while the paint set up was all that was needed. Great results, and I'm sure the advice you've received so far would be valuable to you in doing it yourself. I have no experience with powder coated wheels personally but do know some who have had problems while touring. Powder coating adds some thickness, and that thickness of material can crack and chip under the pressure of lugnuts. If you do choose powder coating, just be sure your lug nuts stay tight.
  1. Load more activity