rust removal

im going to try the molasses rust removal process,my questions are can you use the powdered molasses or should it be liquid,also how to dilute it how much per gallon of water,these are for my 27 moon roadster sheetmetal,also can you put engine parts in this solution thanks dave

I used the thick stuff from the farm store. Mix at about 6 or 7 to one with water. Let it soak for a week or so. It may take longer and longer soaking doesn't hurt a thing. You will experience some mold on the solution after some time but that doesn't hurt anything either.

Be aware that if there is any paint or grease on the parts it will shield the process. In other words the solution will not clean paint or grease.

Rinse the treated parts with a garden hose and dry immediately then paint or oil them as they will begin to recorrode right away.

You could take the rust off of your engine but if its greasy it wont work.

I used a product call Metal Rescue to remove some rust and was happy with the results. At $25/gallon, it's too expensive to buy enough for large parts. But I was pleased with what it did to the smaller ones. I posted a thread a few months ago with pictures: http://forums.aaca.org/f120/metal-rescue-results-372941.html

I use evaporust Available at Autozone or probably alot of other parts stores. I have recommended it to every friend I have. It will remove grease as well so no need to get the part 100 percent degreased first. It works wonders, especially on cast parts. Heavy scale will take alot of time, but flash rust is usually off in 4-8 hours with fresh solution. It's about 22.00 a gallon unless you catch it on sale.

For large parts E tanks work quite well - just google it. They are extremely cheap and simple.

Has anyone considered or used the Electrolysis method for rust removal? Virtually pennies per gallon and can use containers like spackle buckets for small parts and garbage cans for large parts.

Has anyone considered or used the Electrolysis method for rust removal? Virtually pennies per gallon and can use containers like spackle buckets for small parts and garbage cans for large parts.

I know a lot of guys that refurbish old bench vises use that technique and it seems very effective. I've never used it though because I'm allergic to electricity....

I cringe when I plug in a light bulb... doctor says it's some kind of phobia or some BS...who knows.

I have an old Wheelhorse garden tractor and all the collectors use E Tanks - from the pictures they work very, very well without all the mess of molasses or the dangers of chemicals. Supplies needed are basic - battery charger being the most expensive item. Google "E Tank rust removal"

Has anyone considered or used the Electrolysis method for rust removal? Virtually pennies per gallon and can use containers like spackle buckets for small parts and garbage cans for large parts.

I've used it for parts as big as a straight 6 manifold assembly. It is my preferred way of doing rust removal nowadays: Quick, easy, cheap, no harsh chemicals and there is no such thing as damaging the part by leaving it in too long.

im going to try the molasses rust removal process,my questions are can you use the powdered molasses or should it be liquid,also how to dilute it how much per gallon of water,these are for my 27 moon roadster sheetmetal,also can you put engine parts in this solution thanks dave

Dave, I pressure wash my parts after the molasses dip as it cuts down on the amount of handling and cleaning. It will rust immediately so I use Jasco Prep & Prime from Lowes and have some parts that have remained rust free with just this coating for several years.

I have no problem doing engine castings but wouldn't recommend dipping anything that has a polished surface as it can etch it.

Howard Dennis

http://www.lowes.com/pd_99271-78-QJPP00717_0__?productId=3586944&Ntt=

I too, have used evaporust with great success. I buy the 5 gal. bucket from a fabrication supply house (much cheaper) and use the bucket as a dip tank. It is well worth the money because it is quick, thorough and very little odor and is reusable. I also use the electrolysis method on heavy parts ie. vises manifolds etc.

It works great. I use cookie sheets for sacrificial anodes that I get from the scrap pile at the dump (free) because they cover a large area. A square plastic bucket 10 gal. or more, 12v battery charger, and WASHING soda and your in business.

Rick

Jay's buddy has a solution in this video, made by Archoil and you can also buy a flash-rust inhibitor to follow treatment.

http://youtu.be/18x8TlFlY0k?t=4m22s

thanks everyone for your suggestions,i now have to find the liquid molasses,ive called a fiew feed stores but no one has it ill keep looking,need to get moving on this project before winter,haha very little winter in so calif, davet

Dave, have you got a Tractor Supply near you?

Howard Dennis

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/evolved-habitats-molasses-1-gal?cm_vc=-10005

We all have all tried many rust removal methods; some work good some so - so.

Probably the best I have experienced was a commercial rust remover. Dropped the part off and came back a week later and bare metal. Well almost bare; a little sanding or wire brush finished it off. But all in all a good job but pricey.

So the other day I had a Army ammo can that was rusty in the inside. It was the smaller can the .30 cal/7.62 can. It was pretty bad; and no way to really get a wire brush , even on a drill motor, into the corners of that can. There had been old rusty nuts and bolts in it; for years I suppose. The rust was rough to the touch. Rust was only on the bottom and about a inch up.

Steps I took:

1. Squirted some Dawn dish detergent in the can just to remove any grease; not greasy at all but I did this. Shot the garden hose in the can to mix the Dawn. put the lid on and shook the can. A lot of dirt came out; but the rust was still rough to the touch. Rinsed it.

2. Poured a 24oz bottle of Diet Mountain Dew, into he can. I saw this on Youtube. I'm thinking I wasted a good bottle of Mountain Dew; Wait, Wait, if there ever was a good bottle of Mountain Dew, I suppose. Set it outside near the shop door; where I would see it daily. Oh, you can see through Mountain Dew, this we will need to know for later.

3. Checked it every morning for 3 days. Nothing different. Then I went away for 4 days. And it had been very Hot outside those 4 days, if this matters, I don't know, and the Sun beat down on the can.

4. I didn't get back to the can for about 10 days total from the start of this. The Mountain Dew is not the semi-clear Yellow liquid I put in there. It looks a little muddy. I shut the lid, and shook the can a few times. But I did Not touch the inside of the can.

5. I looked at it about every other day for a another week. Everyday the liquid looked muddier; the I gave it a good shake each time I looked at it.

6. Still Hot outside the can is in the Sun, and we are about 2 1/2 weeks into this; and the liquid is muddy and I can't see through it. I dump the liquid out and the liquid is absolutley rust colored.

When I rinsed the can with water; it was clean enough to paint. The rust was gone.