KongaMan

I win! Vandalism would've been shoving a blade through his sidewall, breaking off a mirror, running a key down the side, or pushing a cart into his door. This was non-destructive; a turn of the valve (it was still in the stem) and he's back in business. Minus the air, of course. Didn't cost him nothing but time. Which is what he cost me. It was a proportional response. I'd do it again. Be careful how you park. 😜

FYI, you can order Lloyd mats direct (and without a logo, for an even lower price).

I park like that all the time -- and I drive a beater most days. Still doesn't work. I parked in the back 40 of the Home Depot lot some time ago because I knew I was coming out with a load of lumber and wanted room to load up. When I walked in, there wasn't a vehicle within 20 spaces in any direction. Sure enough, some jackwagon parked his lifted truck right next to me (so now there was one vehicle within 20 spaces). I mean right next to me; I couldn't even squeeze between my quarterpanel and his (yeah, he was at an angle and his rear wheel was in my space). So I contorted myself into the door, pulled up a few feet, got everything strapped in, took back the cart, grabbed my valve tool from the console, unscrewed the core in his front tire, and left to the dulcet tones of hissing air.

If I were the cynical type, I'd think you're trying to gather all the negative info you can so you can make a lowball offer and snag it for yourself. If you're really trying to sell it, list it at 27, take the first close offer that comes in, and move on. The buyer has some obligation to due diligence, and it's neither dishonest nor shady if you don't disclose what you don't know. Tell him what you do know and leave it at that. The more you look for flaws, the more you'll find; any car can be picked apart if you look hard enough. That may give the buyer a reason to go low, but it's not doing the widow any favors.

No kiddin'. You hate to say it on a car that -- at first glance -- looks pretty nice, but (investment-wise) that's almost a project car. The front bumper, the wheels, the paint... They all look to be on the wrong side of the line.

Legwork. Start hunting up and documenting similar listings and/or sales on craigslist, eBay, Hemmings, etc. Then ask yourself how much your time is worth, and whether it might more productively and enjoyably be spent driving and/or improving your car.

In that arrangement, the pin would be inserted to hold the latch against the ratchet. That is, you don't want the ratchet to fly open, and you want something more substantial than a spring to hold it closed.

Don't some of these hoists have locking pins that hold the hoist in place to protect against hydraulic failure?

Put in a 4th set at 120". Or two rows of evenly spaced bolts for infinite adjustment. On some jobs, you might not care if it's next to the wall. On others, you might want to get to both sides. Put in 6 or 8 sets. Won't change the cost much, and you might be glad you did. FWIW, a lot of folks with 2-post lifts augment them with extra-tall jackstands placed front and rear to keep the car from rocking. Maybe I'm an idiot, but the idea of leaning into something like a pinion nut that requires 250 ft-lbs of torque (i.e. a long breaker bar) while the car is perched on a 2-post with no additional support seems a little suspect.

Trigonometry being what it is, the further apart the posts are the less front-to-back adjustment you have. But if you're going to be constantly unbolting and moving the lift, why not put in three sets of anchor bolts? You could put one set by the wall, a second at 105", and a third at 135". That should cover all your bases.

Don't see much need for putting disc brakes on a 65, but if that's what you want to do, you might also take a look at Scarebird's setup. Using OTC calipers and rotors would seem to be advantageous.

What's does "stopped reading" mean? Is it stuck on full, stuck on empty, stuck somewhere in between, or just inaccurate? Don't pass by the obvious: if it's on E, you might be out of gas.

Those two green 52s might well be the same car. Same color, same misaligned trim (or is that a standard "feature"?), and licensed in the same state.

That Vette solution seems to make more sense. If you'll notice, the OEM plate is open in the middle. IOW, there's no way to avoid leakage between the barrels. Similarly, if you don't need a gasket between the plate and the base, why would you need one between the pate and the manifold? Put it all together, and it seems that the optimal solution is a plate sandwich (plate between two gaskets), with all three pieces cut to seal between the barrels.

That is a very cool color.

At this point, get law enforcement involved. Given the uncertain jurisdiction, consider the state police or FBI.

According to the parts book, no AC Wildcat and Electra share a common heater core (3000366); Le Sabre is different (3001138). All three use the same core with AC (3001000). Would be interesting to know what the difference is. Maybe order the one for AC, then pull yours and compare. It might be only a minor difference and still usable. In the meantime, you might look into getting yours recored (if it leaks) or flushing it out with Evaporust (if you think it's plugged).

If you read the regulation, it says "Tax is due at the time of registration and/or title..." That seems to imply that they're not particularly anal about when you pay it. That's maybe not out of character in Vermont, as they have some fairly lax title requirements. In fact, they're the home of the "Vermont loophole", wherein they will (would?) give you a title to a car even if neither the car nor the owner is in Vermont. Do a song and dance (show a Bill of Sale, get the VIN confirmed, etc.) and Bingo! here's your title. That's especially useful for buying a non-titled car elsewhere, getting a title in Vermont, then transferring it to your home state as a free and clear title.

Those are the cat's meow. You get a nice breeze through the cabin with no buffeting. When we were in HS, we'd pop the covers of the vents and stick our beer in there to get it cold. A buddy of mine had a Ford that would hold a 6-pack.

"A while back we took this car in. ... It's one of the good things about doing antique work: it's no rush to get to 'em; it's kind of fill work, and you know, I had to start it eventually". WTF?! And they're still in business. First Google review: "Terrible place! Be prepared to be ripped off! This owner broke the law & never gave us prices before doing work. Lied about towing being free & replaced parts & charged for work that was not necessary." I do some work with a fellow in Red Lion. I should if he knows of this place.

At some point, that's the wise (if annoying choice). Example: Last year I was renewing the registration on one of my cars. The registration page is supposed to list every car you own. I noticed that one (my Riviera) was missing. I entered the VIN and hit search. Nothing. I entered the registration number. Nothing. So I grabbed the title and registration and went to the DMV. They said, "That car doesn't exist." So I laid out the title and registration, and told the clerk to look out the window for an unobstructed view of the non-existent car. She agreed that it looked like a car, and it matched the description in the documents. She called her boss, and she came to the same conclusion. They huddled together, and the operating theory was that because I had put Historical Vehicle plates on the car in 1989, and it had been more than 25 years since the record had been updated, it was purged from the system. I had two choices: engage in a protracted escalation with no guarantee of satisfaction all the while (not) driving an illegal car, or pay $28 and walk out with new, valid title and plates in 5 minutes (they did actually cop me the plates, but they couldn't waive the title fee). It wasn't a hard decision -- although I was put out that I had to give up my original, typed title from 1979. Moral: Sometimes you just take it in the shorts for the greater good.

Based on your quote, it sounds like you're in Vermont. You might look into an exempt title. Or just pay it. Summer's half over already. If you get into a protracted dispute, you might not be driving it until next year.

It's not in the condition it was in in 2009; taxes are calculated on the current value rather than former value. If you'd registered in in 2009, you'd have an argument that it should have been valued at $3900 then. It's like a house: build an addition or add a garage, the value and your taxes go up. Moreover, you don't get a credit for the sales tax you paid on the lumber. If they value the car at $10,300, you might be advised to take it and run. NADA values on a base 65 Riviera go from $10,350 to $46,600. A freshly restored car is probably closer to the high end than the low end. If you push too hard, they might want to look at the car. If they do, there's a chance they tell you it's worth $30,000 and tax accordingly. BTW, how much are you going to insure it for? That's a good benchmark of what you think it's worth.

'Tis true. We had a 61 Le Sabre 4 door sedan when I was a kid (Phoenix Beige with a white top). The second most popular model. Try finding one of those now. It's hard enough to find a picture.

BTW, the gasket in the OP is a bit different from the old gasket I've got hanging here. Look at how much longer the heater opening is.