In general, it goes like this: replace the rubber, inspect the rest. Assuming that you're the first guy to touch this stuff post-factory, that means rear control arm bushings, track bar bushings, lower control arm bushings, front sway bar bushings, and reaction rod bushings should get changed as a matter of course. Doesn't matter if "it looks good"; 55-year-old rubber is shot. You will feel the difference.
You can do this in steps. A good place to start is the track bar; it's easy, cheap (about $15) , and can make a big difference.
Rear control arm bushings are only available for something like $85 each (and you need 6). Search the forum for a low-cost workaround.
The front springs, ball joints, and lower control arm bushings go together. Fix them all at the same time (because jacking with the springs is somewhat dangerous and a PITA) . If they're apart, give the upper control arm shaft another turn towards the rear. This will give you the increased caster that you want for radials. IMHO, it's a better approach than trimming the reaction arm bushings to pull the control arm forward as it doesn't affect the geometry of the LCA pivoting. While you're in there with the inside of the spring tower accessible, replace the fuel hose with Gates Barricade (it's ethanol proof and your OEM hose is probably falling apart anyway). There are several sources for springs. CSS is highly recommended, as they can make a set to give you both the firmness and ride height you want (e.g. you can get springs like those in the H2 package but without lowering the car). IIRC, standard springs are 400 lb/in; H2 are 500 lb/in.
No need to replace ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, or center link unless they're bad (but fix them all at once). Outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints are readily available from any jobber. You need to go to specialty suppliers for upper ball joints (which aren't often bad to begin with, and they're spot welded to upper control arm) , inner tie rod ends, and idler arm. Those places are a crap shoot, as neither you nor they know where the parts come from. As an alternative, Rare Parts has parts they've scavenged from closeouts, or will rebuild your old parts (but they're not cheap). If the center link is bad, you'll need to have it rebuilt (there are no replacements available). That's not cheap, either.
Pay now, save later: don't cheap out on the parts. Example: I wanted a couple of the adjusting sleeves for the front tie rod ends. I figured it was an easy part to replace, so I went to the local AutoDeath and got what they were selling. Absolute POS. Flimsy, metric nuts (WTF?), etc. OEM was twice the part. So I did what I should have done at the beginning: cleaned up the factory part, put it on, and chucked the cheap Chinese crap in the trash. That bit of idiocy would've bought me a case of good beer. If they can't get an adjusting sleeve right, are you going to trust them on a ball joint? And if it needs rebuilt (e.g. your center link), get it rebuilt. Don't be driving around with a sloppy front end because you didn't want to spend the money. Your kids can go without food for a couple of weeks.
And speaking of parts: if you're running the original steering components (look for the big S stamped into the cover), don't throw them away. Even if they're loose, they can be rebuilt.
Remember, you may need to shell out for an alignment after any work on the front end, so you'll save time and money in the long run by doing it all at once.
There aren't many available shocks. They go from soft to firm (and cheap to expensive) in the order of Monroe, KYB, and Bilstein. Addco makes a beefier front sway bar (part # 1062?).
Can you use a longer bolt and spin a second nut onto the end of it?
