EmTee

I had a '70 Chrysler Newport winter-rat with a bad fuel sender. I ran out of gas one night in the middle of a snow storm. I installed a new sender the following week!

A definite improvement!

Do you have a problem with that...?

Are you going to try to keep R-12, or convert to R134a?

Not that I'm aware of, unless you're talking about OEM vs. the replacement 'mini' gear-reduction starters.

Well, it does appear that the rubber has degraded. I know you have been focused on idle smoothness and based on the picture can't help but think these mounts are likely not as compliant as they once were. How difficult would it be to remove one of them so that you can inspect condition on your bench? Clamp one side in your vice and use a crescent wrench or vice-grips to see what happens to the rubber when you apply some torque to the mount...

OK, I could see 205° F being at the upper end of "normal". That's the temperature that my 2004 Chevrolet K1500's 5.3L V8 normally operates. What is the opening temperature of the thermostat that you're using? If you are using a 50/50 mix of EG antifreeze and water with a 15 psi radiator cap the coolant should not boil at that temperature.

Well, that's too bad, however, I guess I'm not surprised. Today I suppose we'll need to rely on hydro-dipping 3-D printed polymer parts...

I think it was common to have a 2 ~ 3 gallon 'reserve' remain when the gauge reads 'empty'.

Maybe @edinmass can provide a POC for someone who was involved with the reproductions he referenced above. The key will be finding enough interest to justify another run and get the unit price somewhat reasonable. Again, Ed is probably closest to those who would be most interested in having them remade.

It is a striking color combination. My problem with this car is it's BIG! This represents the point where the universe had expanded to its maximum and the following year began to contract...

I think (whatever that's worth) that you have the right idea. I would use 12's long block and dress it with the accessories from 50. The immediate concern I have is whether the intake & injection components are compatible with 12's heads. If there's an issue, you may be forced to use 50's heads on 12's short block. If that happens you'll need to have 50's heads reconditioned and milled to remove any distortion from the overheating episode. Hopefully the 12's long block can be used and fitted with the other pieces that came in the car originally.

Both!

Those patterns could be really helpful to others down-the road. Is there any way you can save and file them for future reference?

Nice, however, I don't see any dice...

Ha - I actually saw one of those in the flesh last winter! I had to search the web to figure out what it was... http://coindispenser.com/story.html

Yup, there was one that showed-up in the parking lot at work for a few weeks a couple of years ago. It looked pretty tired, but nonetheless was still on the road. I think these are at, or near, the top of the automobile "hard to kill" list!

How 'bout a faux '40 Ford?

Oops - forgot to move the towel!

'68 is the one to have, IMHO. I also like the naked roof...

Based solely on my foggy recollection (disclaimer) I'll say that 'semi-gloss' seems about right. Back when these cars were daily drivers I don't recall any high-gloss finishes under the hood -- unless the car was recently purchased from one of those used car dealers who sprayed everything with that clear-coat that made even the radiator hoses and fan shrouds sparkle...

Maybe modify a set of Firebird fender flares to fit the body? That won't be cheap, but if painted to match, they would look like an extension of the fender. Since they normally sit at the front of the wheel opening they would have to be installed on opposite sides (i.e., L->R & R->L) to fit behind the wheel.

Fouled spark plug or bad HT wire?

Check that you have good vacuum to the modulator. WRT the vibration, I would definitely look for a cracked flexplate, loose torque converter, bad U-joints or stuck driveshaft yoke.

Mud flaps really detract from the lines of the car. Maybe consider using something like this instead... https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchgard-Clear-Protection-84-inches/dp/B004VFYCZE