3D printing

[jp1gt]

I always think out of the box. I tried this site Fiverr. It is a site for entrepreneurs to market their skills. Anyway this kid that lives in Egypt, yes a kid made this CAD drawing for 35 bucks!

 

[drhach]

My Wife got my Son and I a 3D printer for Christmas. It has been wonderful. I've made many little clips and brackets . I even found some Ivory colored resin and I made some window crank knobs. It's a great tool to have at your disposal. 

[TAKerry]

My 12 yo grandson is getting ready to start a STEM summer camp. One of the things they are going to be doing is 3d modeling and printing. I hope it goes well enough that I can buy him a printer!

[drhach]

Check out the Ender series of printers. Very good price to quality ratio. If you buy the kit rather than the assembled version, you save even a few more dollars and you have a project to do with your Grandson. Probably they will use Fusion 360 as their drawing software in camp. You can download a non-commercial version of that for free when he gets back from camp. Be careful, you may not want to give him the printer once you get it set up. 

[TAKerry]

Ha, if its a joint project to put it together I will be his helper. He even has to guide me through my smart phone!

[jp1gt]

Ok I have the file, but nobody seems to get back with me. Any suggestions?

[Guest]

I used Shapeways to print a magneto coupling for my Panhard et Levassor. They have a very good selection of materials. You upload the 3d part file to their website and it generates a quote with different options. It took about a week to receive the part here in Australia. I imagine it would be quicker if you're located in the USA.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/

[M.Sinclair]

Do be very careful printing anything that takes load or is more than decorative like a window crank knob. As a side effect of the way most 3D printers work they have layer lines they will fail along as that’s where they are weakest. Be careful of how the model is oriented when it’s printed and you can get the layer lines in a direction that doesn’t take load and will have less breakage problems.

[bryankazmer]

3 hours ago, jp1gt said:

Ok I have the file, but nobody seems to get back with me. Any suggestions?

Because you didn’t ask any question

[bryankazmer]

1 hour ago, M.Sinclair said:

Do be very careful printing anything that takes load or is more than decorative like a window crank knob. As a side effect of the way most 3D printers work they have layer lines they will fail along as that’s where they are weakest. Be careful of how the model is oriented when it’s printed and you can get the layer lines in a direction that doesn’t take load and will have less breakage problems.

Reported material properties are normally for injection molded test bars. Three D printed materials are generally weaker, with failure along layer boundaries as you say

 

spool printers, powder beds, and UV cured baths give very different results

[jp1gt]

4 minutes ago, bryankazmer said:

Because you didn’t ask any question

What are YOU talking about?  I am saying I send a file to someone for a quote and no answer!

Edited July 4 by jp1gt (see edit history)

[M.Sinclair]

33 minutes ago, bryankazmer said:

Reported material properties are normally for injection molded test bars. Three D printed materials are generally weaker, with failure along layer boundaries as you say

 

spool printers, powder beds, and UV cured baths give very different results

You may be able to get a stronger print with like a continuous strand carbon fiber fill but at that point you’re sending it out to have someone else print it probably so you may as well get it done in a powder bed

[drhach]

5 hours ago, TAKerry said:

Ha, if its a joint project to put it together I will be his helper. He even has to guide me through my smart phone!

If I can do it, it's definitely idiot resistant.

[Studemax]

I have a nephew in Seattle making spare parts for all the guys in his Cougar club and his Dad's Corvette club. He can even print in metal.

[jp1gt]

I got a file made and it ends in STL.glb  

How do I save it in just STL.  Another words I want to send the file to someone and they print it off the file

[drhach]

What program are you using to save the file? 

[jp1gt]

3 hours ago, drhach said:

What program are you using to save the file? 

Here is the file--     Special_screw_jackpodsedly.STL     Maybe solid works?

[BuickTom87]

I’m actually looking into purchasing a 3d printer to recreate some parts clips , then get

them remade in metal .

 

 

so for the experts here has anyone recreated anything then made it into metal ?

[73rivy]

Interesting

[Turbinator]

8 hours ago, BuickTom87 said:

I’m actually looking into purchasing a 3d printer to recreate some parts clips , then get

them remade in metal .

 

 

so for the experts here has anyone recreated anything then made it into metal ?

The parts clips for repair of 64-66 Buick Wood steering wheel horn cap and the horn ring. The horn ring holds the emblem.

[BuickTom87]

Anyone have recommendations on 3d printers 

[human-potato_hybrid]

On 7/3/2024 at 6:02 PM, jp1gt said:

Ok I have the file, but nobody seems to get back with me. Any suggestions?

Yeah, what is the intended application for the part?

[TTR]

So how much does a good quality, most versatile* 3D printing systems** cost ?

 

* Able to do various materials, shapes & sizes, etc for (vintage) automotive applications.

 

** Turn-key/ready-to-run setup with all the necessary bells & whistles. 

[bryankazmer]

There is no one answer because your question is too broad.

there are multiple types of « additive manufacturing. ». Strand, powder bed, UV cure, Metal sintering to name some. The materials available for each differ. It depends what you want to make, with what precision. Very few load bearing parts are appropriate

 

Strand and liquid resin UV are the cheapest home systems today

[Gary_Ash]

As a place to start, buy a basic printer that prints using PLA filament.  Learn to use it, maybe buy some hardened nozzles. Once you know what you can and can’t do with it, you can always upgrade to a larger, more complex machine.  I recommend the Creality Ender 3 as a good, capable machine.  It costs $175 or less.  The build volume on my Ender 3 is 8”x8”x10” high. 

https://store.creality.com/products/ender-3-s1-3d-printer-aa7d?spm=..product_75ca7cca-6c91-4b4f-bf1a-1d273647d18a.product_club_1.1&spm_prev=..product_54e4ade3-adc4-4bbf-b765-26c8e89a0fb4.product_club_1.1

 

I also recommend the Ultimaker Cura slicer software to convert STL files from CAD into GCODE files for printing.

https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/

 

Try https://matterhackers.com for filament and other goodies. 

[jp1gt]

The part is a worm gear on a torsion spring garage opener. the company has you spend 120 dollars for a "new" system. there is a website of small entrepreneurs that will make things real low cost.

fiverr is the website. I have 2 other doors just like it and the part suppliers are interested in my idea. I just wish I could get to understand the 3D file system!

[bryankazmer]

If I understand your application correctly, the part is under a high load from spring torsion. A dimensionally correct part of inadequate strength is a grenade waiting to go off

 

listen to GaryA he has expertise and experience.  Very crudely, first you need a file describing the shape of the part. Then a file to slice the shape into very thin cross sections. Then a file to make each cross section in order

[Gary_Ash]

My recommendations on 3D printers was in the general sense, not having registered that you want to make those clips.  Unfortunately, I think it is unlikely that a 3D printing process will give you parts that thin with enough spring strength to do what you want. The clips were made by stamping thin metal that was partially hardened.  You can buy spring-tempered phosphor bronze sheet from Online Metals in a variety of thicknesses.  Maybe you could saw out the shapes, drill holes, and make some bending jigs to duplicate the parts. Sounds like a lot of work!

 

If there is a sheet metal shop near you that has laser cutting capability, they could cut out the flat parts and make the holes from a piece of phosphor bronze using a DXF file from CAD. It would take a very small press brake to bend them. 

 

https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/bronze/0-04-phosphor-bronze-sheet-510-spring-temper/pid/17898

[TTR]

Perhaps I'm too old fashioned/- schooled, but I prefer manually/mechanically fabricated/formed vintage vehicle restoration parts over anything made with a click (or a few) of button(s) on computers or printers, etc.

Edited July 15 by TTR (see edit history)

[TTR]

On 7/13/2024 at 4:23 PM, BuickTom87 said:

I’m actually looking into purchasing a 3d printer to recreate some parts clips , then get

them remade in metal .

 

 

so for the experts here has anyone recreated anything then made it into metal ?

In past 4+ decades in this hobby (and profession) I've "recreated" countless, different size & type metal (& other material) parts, including various "clips", but mainly used old-school fabrication technologies ranging from hand cutting, - filing, - grinding, - hammering to lathe/mill machining or welding, etc.

I've also had some parts made with CNC machining, but most have been small production runs where accurate repetitive consistency is imperative.

Have not yet seen much practical use for 3D printing technology in my world, but then again, I'm an old-school curmudgeon not easily enamored by all this "high tech".

 

 

 

Edited July 15 by TTR (see edit history)

[TAKerry]

1 hour ago, TTR said:

Perhaps I'm too old fashioned/- schooled, but I prefer manually/mechanically fabricated/formed vintage vehicle restoration parts over anything made with a click (or a few) of button(s) on computers or printers, etc.

Exactly how I feel building cabinets and furniture. A CNC machine would be so much quicker and easier but.....................................

[human-potato_hybrid]

On 7/14/2024 at 3:45 AM, Turbinator said:

The parts clips for repair of 64-66 Buick Wood steering wheel horn cap and the horn ring. The horn ring holds the emblem.

Those clips are too thin for most metal 3D print processes. You should instead get them from a small batch sheet metal parts supplier.

 

The other part looks OK but you will have to do the brushed finish yourself.

[Gary_Ash]

@jp1gt  As the original poster, you deserve some better responses.  STL and GLB files are two different types of files that can describe a 3D object.  Either can be fed to a 3D printer after slicing to a GCODE file.  AN STL file approximates the object by a series of joined triangles.  Depending on the precision needed, there can be many thousands of triangles.  When viewed, the STL file looks like a mesh.  I haven't used GLB files, but the object will also be approximated.  I think GLB files may turn out to be smaller, i.e. fewer bytes, than STL files.  In the end, it doesn't matter too much what type is used.  You can send either type to places like Shapeways.com or i.materialise.com to have them print the file in plastic or metal.  If you get a plastic print, it still has to be converted to a metal part for your garage door opener.  Casting and finish machining could be expensive.

 

Garage door openers with big springs can be very dangerous if a part breaks.  If the original part you show the photo of is metal, then you need a strong metal part.  Even though you may think that the $120 cost from the garage door supplier is high, I don't think you will find it cheaper to make one or three yourself.  The OEM part will be safer.

 

@Turbinator  You showed your own clips here.  I previously posted about using phosphor bronze to make some.  A cheaper alternative is to use type 1075 tempered blue steel, available in thicknesses up to 0.020 inch.  It can be cut and bent, still stay springy.    In addition to laser or waterjet cutting, a sheet can be photoetched to make the flat part with holes.  You will need to make an accurate drawing of the flat part, CAD file in .DXF format is best.  Photofabrication Engineering Inc. can etch out the parts, though you may need to supply a sheet of 1075 blue steel.  Seehttps://www.photofabrication.com/

 

[jp1gt]

Thanks Gary. I think someone got it right this time, I should get the sample soon. the first one was too thin on the outside of the gear, causing it to strip out. this is what I do not understand. the file is perfect, why doesn't it turn out just like the pic in the file? the gears tighten the  spring in a tube and then stay stationary. They are not like the big springs you may be thinking about. I believe the worm gear is sacrificial. I will inform on how it works.

[human-potato_hybrid]

There's a probably 10 thou tolerance on the shape that the original part would have kept much tighter.

[Fordy]

I have just had some screw on hubcaps for a 1926 A series Hupp scanned and a model produced. That was the cheap part - having them printed in metal will run around $100 (US$) each then I need to cut threads and polish them. I am not certain that it's worth the effort just to get ones that have no dings in them.

Steve

[Tony Jones]

This is helpful for most of my print jobs.