Stude Light Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I’m replacing the brake system on my 1962 Olds F-85. The master cylinder had some crude in it so I disassembled it and bought a rebuild kit. The master cylinder worked fine and didn’t leak before I disassembled and cleaned it out. The bore is not rusty nor pitted. Normally I would just buy a new one but the original housings are no longer available and I like originality. My question: Do I lightly run a wheel cylinder hone down the bore of the master or just leave it as is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I would probably give it a couple of light passes, just to clean it up. 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Give it a few light passes , wipe clean and look for low spots as you would do in a cylinder block. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I would lightly. Less is more. Only knock down crud or anything that could stick above the main surface. Don't try to remove pits if you find some. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 "Back in the day" [ hate that phrase] we just cleaned them up with fine crocus cloth. Never had to do one over. Ben 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 On some things like that I have used the brush that is used to clean copper fittings before soldering them together. You can use them manually with the handle on or cut the handle off and use a drill. Buy them at any hardware store or Home Depot, etc.. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Oatey-31327-1-2-Copper-Fitting-Brush-w-Plastic-Handle?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_users&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4ak1uW93GZyBL3HKroXFfWmsJA40DXwDYFn7ApIf6XqCnCEIWOAaeeBoC8CwQAvD_BwE 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 After cleaning up the bore of the master cylinder with some brakleen it turns out that it has a brass bore. That’s why there is no rust nor pitting. It is in very nice shape. Now I’m thinking a little 000 steel wool just to clean up any oxidation. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hook Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 16 hours ago, Stude Light said: After cleaning up the bore of the master cylinder with some brakleen it turns out that it has a brass bore. That’s why there is no rust nor pitting. It is in very nice shape. Now I’m thinking a little 000 steel wool just to clean up any oxidation. Be very careful with that steel wool. The tineyest little specs of wool can really screw up a good job by getting in the lines and fittings. Wash, wash, wash and blow, blow, blow out. Just some advice from someone that's been there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Wash with soap and water. Then blow dry. Sounds counterintuitive water with cast iron, but do it. Then lube lightly with the fluid you will be using. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewest Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 2/20/2024 at 9:54 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: "Back in the day" [ hate that phrase] we just cleaned them up with fine crocus cloth. Never had to do one over. Ben What I was a kid I didn't have a hone for wheel cylinders or the master cyl. I used a piece of wood dowel , cut a slit in it and used a piece very fine emery cloth sliding the slit. It worked good. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 1 hour ago, Frank DuVal said: Wash with soap and water. Then blow dry. Sounds counterintuitive water with cast iron, but do it. Then lube lightly with the fluid you will be using. This^^ Better yet, lube it with Sil-Glyde. That goes double for wheel cylinders. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 It’ll go in the ultrasonic cleaner before assembly. I use the purple Simple Green with water at about 200 deg F so when you pull it out and rinse it is still hot enough to quickly evaporate any residual water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 (edited) I used a lot of 600 wet or dry sandpaper before I got a brake cylinder hone....👍 I never tried to remove pits, just got the crud out for a smooth finish. Worked great!😉 🛠️☃️❄️🐫🏎️ 🎠 🚗 🚋 Edited February 23 by Frank DuVal (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 It appears there has been a sleeve job already. Now sleeve jobs are done with stainless steel. On my 28 DB I have all 4 Wheel cylinders done in stainless steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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