1928 Buick Standard 28-20 Now Running & Sorting

[28Buick]

Note: Topic title originally said NOT running but is edited as it is NOW running. 

My first post here so please redirect me if there is a better spot online. I just looked at it 2.6 miles from my house in very nice condition cosmetically with all service records and a clean title. Asking $15,000. Here are a few pics from the sale. I hooked up the 6V battery and honked the horn, but they could not find the key. I suspect it has not run for 15 years, owner has passed and nobody knows what mechanical issues there may be. I know nothing about this engine or the weird updraft carb. Interior, wood flooring and running boards are all in great shape. No critter chew. Photo album shows a wheel restoration and a bunch of car show wins. I just realized I have no pics of the underbelly, but it is clean with no signs of rust, just a rag tied around the tranny area where there must be a drip. Should I buy it? [p.s. I did buy it]. Thank you for any insights you may have.

Edited August 4, 2023 by 28Buick
better title (see edit history)

[27donb]

I believe Model 20 would be Standard Six, looks like a very nice car. 

 

Any engine pics? 

Edited July 13, 2023 by 27donb (see edit history)

[Oregon Desert model 45]

It looks like a nice restoration that would cost a lot more than $15k to restore today.    Model 20 is the smaller series called Standard which has a 114-1/2" wheelbase.   Master models have a 120" wheelbase and a larger engine.   Somewhere here in Buick pre-war is a thread that details everything that should be checked before starting a car that has been sitting for several years. 

[28Buick]

19 minutes ago, 27donb said:

I believe Model 20 would be Standard Six, looks like a very nice car.  Any engine pics? 

Okay, I may return with a tape measure or change my forum name. I spent an hour crawling around it and forgot the engine pics. I just went back and took these photos. I'm curious about how the doors overlap the body panel on both sides. It seems intentional as the moulding ends at the overlap and the door latches work fine. Or are these doors misaligned somehow?

[28Buick]

and while wiggling like a snake on the floor, some underbelly pictures:

[Oregon Desert model 45]

That underside is really clean !   Almost too clean.  Probably should check all oil levels and squirt some grease in all the fittings to be on the safe side.  Two door sedans are notorious for sagging doors due to the width and weight especially on a wood bodied car.  The amount of sag appears to be around 1/4" to 3/8", but with the doors closed the dovetail could be supporting them.  How much do they sag when the doors are opened ?  

You really don't need to measure the wheelbase to confirm it to be a Standard.  A two door sedan was not offered in the Master series in 1928.   There are two more items on mid 20's Buicks that can be used to identify Standard from Master models.  Master rear wheels have 6 acorn nuts visible at the hub, and Standards have 12 carriage bolt heads.  Master models used a coolant collector manifold that splits into 3 tubes mounted to the top of the head ;  Standard engine coolant return uses a single pipe at the front of the head.  

Overall it looks like a nice Buick. 

Edited July 13, 2023 by Oregon Desert model 45
edit (see edit history)

[Grant L. Meredith]

It’s a standard.  Really nice car. Looks like a good buy. Easy way to tell a standard is the flat belt on fan, masters 274 had a V belt. Also master had a round tube between frame rails ahead of the radiator behind bumper. Carb should be a 10-103. As you can see there is no water bridge (as I call it) from head to rad for return water

 

looks like the gentleman spent a lot on the car and should be a easy to get running I think. 
 

 

[Hubert_25-25]

That is a Standard rear axle (12 hub bolts) and a Standard engine (single water outlet on the front of the cylinder head). 

Model 20 sounds right.  The Master version is a Model 40.

I think the price is a reasonbable asking price.  Looks like nice paint on the car and attention to detail on the undercarriage.  Nice interior.

The idle stop has a long screw installed because the carburetor has a bad venturi in it.  After you purchase it we will send information on how to fix it.  Parts are available.   These cars have a composite timing gear.  You just need to make sure that the water pump shaft is not frozen before you crank it over by hand or with the starter motor.  If you can tell that the water pump shaft moves a little, then it should be OK to crank.  

Edited July 13, 2023 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Guest]

8 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

. . .  These cars have a composite timing gear.  .  .

Is it the same for the master, say a '29?  Are timing gears available anywhere?

[28Buick]

I am on my way to the estate sale. There is a lot of neat stuff so there will be a crowd with numbers starting at 8. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[28Buick]

Bought it. Owner is overseas so no title yet. Good news from Hegarty Drivers Club, they will pay for the flatbed towing. Going thru the service records, complete with ad below.

Edited July 14, 2023 by 28Buick (see edit history)

[Hubert_25-25]

28 Buick, 

      Congratulations.  It's a good thing you did not tell me where the estate sale was.  Below is a new owners guide to help you with an understanding of this older model.  If you can't find the links after you have a chance to review what you have bought, just ask.     Hugh 

 

New Buick Owners Guide & Prewar Starting guide.   Buick Tech 101  Hugh Leidlein   11-28-22   C

Welcome to Buick ownership.  Here are some tips to get you started.

The following 3 books are necessary for Pre war Buick Ownership.   They are based on 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder models prior to 1925, or specified as “Standard” or “Master” in 1925 and up.  Basically around 115” wheelbase is the smaller Buick series, and 120” to 128” wheelbase is the larger Buick series. 

The Buick Heritage Alliance sells the following books.  The quality of the copies is only “fair” in many cases.  This may work for some people, depending on how many pieces your car is missing or needing.  I suggest buying an original book of parts if you can find it, due to the better print quality.   

1)      The “Book of Parts” for your year.  

2)      The “Shop Manual” for your year

3)      The “reference book” for your year (of lesser importance if you can find a shop manual).

It is helpful in many cases to obtain copies of the parts books for 1 or 2 years before and after your model year.  Many times there is additional information or photos that will help with your understanding.

Note: Only a handful of parts used on a 4 cylinder model fit a 6 cylinder model.  Same with so few Standard parts will fit a Master.  The 4 cylinder line became the Standard, and the 6 cylinder line became the Master so there is interchangeability in that order.  Parts interchange is closest based on wheelbase of the models      

There is also available a big book of parts “Buick Master Parts List 1916-1932”.  This 3” thick book provides a listing of the years and models for each part.  You will have better luck finding a part knowing it’s year and model range rather than just looking for a single year.   This book does not have a lot of pictures and will not be a good substitute for the book of parts for your year, but I refer to this book frequently.   Some find it of little use - based on how many parts they are missing.

There are almost zero “exploded views” of parts, so take a lot of photos and notes during disassembly. 

------------ Precautions------ THESE ARE NOT MODERN ENGINES------Damage can occur.

The first order is usually to see if the engine will turn over.  Do the following first.

1)      Pull the Water pump hoses

 The water pump is on the side of the motor.  The issue is that the camshaft gear is fiber on 1924-1928 Buick 6 cylinders, and it drives the waterpump.  If the water pump is frozen or drags, it will destroy the timing gear teeth.  Parts will fall in the engine.  The camshaft gears are expensive and new gears are not of the same quality as the originals.  The first order of business should be to remove the water pump hoses to ensure the pump rotates on the shaft.   Without the hoses, it should rotate 180 degrees. Note that some earlier models have a water pump housing bolt that also needs to be removed.       

Water pump shafts are steel unless a recent replacement to stainless.  The water pump bearings are bronze.  If the antifreeze was not cared for, rust on the WP shaft could wear the bronze bearings out quickly.  The WP seal is graphite packing.  The wear surface should be smooth and the packing should only be tight enough to prevent major leaks of the waterpump.  It should drip a little bit here and there.  If it does not, the packing is too tight.  Most people replace the shaft with a stainless steel shaft.

2)      Change the oil (and filter if it has one).  Strongly consider dropping the oil pan as well. 

An oil change is probably long overdue.   Don’t cut corners and skip dropping the pan.  Pre 1926 cars had no oil filter.  Non detergent oil was used for years, and there is likely a lot of sludge in the oil pan.  I have seen the oil pick up screens clogged from sludge, and this will starve the engine and could suck the screen in.  Bob’s Automobilia or Olsons Gaskets has an oil pan gasket set.  This is not a hard job.

3)      Oil the Cylinders

Pull the spark plugs, put some oil in the cylinders.  If penetrating oil or Marvel mystery oil was used in the cylinders, you must follow it with regular oil once the engine begins to turn. 

4)      Pull the valve cover. 

Squirt oil on the rocker assembly.  Bump the rockers with a rubber mallet over the valve springs to ensure that all the valves move.  Drip oil on the valve stems if you can.

5)      Pull the engine side covers.

Squirt oil on the cam shaft rollers (and cam bearings if you can get to them). 

After doing the above 5 items, you could rotate the motor, even crank it with the starter.  If the engine is or was frozen, let the cylinders soak for at least a week in penetrating lube.  It is best to try to unstick a frozen engine from the flywheel end and not the hand crank end.  The handcrank is not that strong.  Put the transmission in 1^st gear.  Use 4 people (2 in front and 2 at the back) to rock the car back and forth in an effort to free the pistons.  Parts frozen by rust come apart easier if you work the frozen part back and forth rather than continually forcing the rotation thru the rust.  Reversing rotation allows some rust to move out of compression between the parts.

Note that the pistons are removed only from the bottom of the engine on early Buick motors.  If you do get the engine to rotate, strongly consider pulling the pistons out the bottom and cleaning the cylinder walls and the ring grooves and doing an inspection - prior to reinstalling and firing the engine.     

It would be great to get a compression tester.  Around 60 lbs pressure in each cylinder is a good motor.  There should be less than 10% deviation in each cylinder.  Spark plug adapters are available from Ford Model A parts suppliers.    

Cranking the motor is a good thing to check off the list.  A compression test gives a good check on the health of the motor. 

Preparing for starting – knowing that the motor turns over:

1)      Pull the carburetor. 

a)       Clean out the fuel bowl. 

b)      Use carburetor cleaner to ensure all internal passages blow thru. 

c)       Consider installing a Nitrolphyl float – available from Bob’s Automobilia or Gregg Lange. 

d)      Check that the air valve lays smooth against the carburetor inside diameter and that there is a narrow gap at the base of the air valve.  You likely need to file the pot metal venturi block.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Marvel Carburetor Rebuilding”.

2)      Check that the exhaust manifold valve (on the front end of the exhaust manifold) is open.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Buick Exhaust valve removal”.

3)      Rebuild the distributor.  The distributor should rotate by the advance levers on the steering column.  Several years of distributors were pot metal and the distributor housing will grow and freeze into the generator housing.   Replace with a steel Buick distributor from other years.  Do not force the movement as there are potmetal gears at the base of the steering column that are not that strong.  There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Distributor Replacement”.  Also search for “Distributor rebuilding”.

4)      Rebuild the Water pump. (see the forum for upgrades to the seals and shaft). There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Water Pump Rebuilding”.

5)      The fan hub is an old design that requires frequent oiling and will leak oil all over the motor.  Replace it with a sealed bearing hub – Several suppliers for this.  Search the AACA Forum “fan hub replacement”.

6)      Rebuild the vacuum tank and gas tank * I prefer to do the “fuel supply” system later as there is a lot to this.  For a first start, I hang a 1 quart used lawnmower tank and feed the carburetor with this from a reinforced rubber fuel hose, or just pour gas in the vacuum tank.  It will hold about a quart. Search the AACA Forum “vacuum tank rebuilding”.

 

Other notes:

Oil and grease is usually long overdue for removing the old and installing new (and not just installing new.)  Clean out as much of the old as you can first.

 

Engines that have laid dormant for decades may have significant rust in the engine block.  You do not want this in your honeycomb radiator as they cannot be rodded out.  Consider installing a Gano filter into the top radiator hose to catch sediment and keep rust out of the radiator.  Also consider removing the engine freeze plugs and cleaning any rust out of the block, or at least reverse flushing out the engine water jacket with water and without radiator hoses just prior to start up.

The firing order is 142635.  (Reverse of a modern engine)

Pot metal failures cause problems.  The following areas will likely need attention

1.       Distributors – housing growth prevents spark advance.  discussed above

2.       Carburetor – venture growth – prevents easy starting and idling – discussed above

3.       Ignition switch – switch shaft grows, housing hole grows smaller-  Bob’s Automobilia has parts-replace both housing and switch levers.

4.       Speedometers – internals freeze up.  Disconnect the cable to prevent cable damage. 

 

Inspect the oil pick up screen.  Most are weak or have failed.  Use 50/50 solder to replace the screen.  Screen size is .008 brass 30 x 30 wires per inch.  McMaster Carr 9241T61

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Buick Owners order of work 2.  More notes and items to think about.

 

1) Pull the water pump off first.   The 2 hoses are old and need replacement anyways.  The pump can now be rebuilt .  

2) squirt some oil in the cylinders.  About a tablespoons worth in each.  Consider even using engine fogging spray to lubricate the cylinder walls

3) Are you willing to drain the oil and drop the pan.  I have not found a person who has ever said dropping the pan was a waste of time.  If nothing else, you have peace of mind that any old engine sludge is not lurking.  Most people are glad that they dropped to pan and cleaned the pan out.  Inspect the oil pump and the oil pump screen.  Consider pulling the oil pump and having it checked.    Egge can rebuild it if necessary and install a new pressure relief valve spring.  I have seen several broken springs.  The oil suction screens are also weak and typically torn.  These need to be inspected. 

4) Pull the valve cover and side covers.  Oil the valve train.  Check that each rocker arm and cam roller  moves.  

5) Put 6 volts on the starter and see if it operates on the floor.  You can use 12 volts if you keep the time short.  Say 15 seconds, then rest time for any heat to be removed.  Consider having it rebuilt while it is out.       

6) Install new gaskets on the Oil pan.  Add Fresh oil and a new filter.    

With the water pump off, and the valve train checked and oiled, you should be able to turn the engine without damaging anything.  If you have the hand crank, a couple rotations should tell if everything is moving.  Do the initial cranking with the spark plugs out.  If it hand cranks well, put the starter motor in and give it a few more rotations.  

Install the valve cover and side covers and gaskets after you have witnessed that all the valve train parts are operating properly.  

After this, we work on ignition and carburation, so lets start with the above first to keep the work manageable.  The goal is pumping fresh oil thru the motor and that it turns over.     

7)     Early engines (around 1918) use cotter pins on the wrist pins.  This is not a robust design.  If the age of the rebuild is unknown, consider going in and replacing the cotter pins.  These can be changed with the engine in place if the pan is removed.  

 

😎     Fiber timing gears used on all the sixes after 1924, and Into the eights.  Stopped using about 1954.

Hugh 

 

Edited July 28, 2023 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[1956cody]

Congratulations it is a very nice car. I have a 1925-20, which looks exactly like yours. The car is fun to drive and not too difficult to maintain with some help from forum members. 

Hugh is very knowledgeable, perhaps gifted when it comes to these early Buicks. Happy motoring!

 

[JohnS25]

CONGRATULATIONS 🍾 
 

Beautiful car.

 I absolutely love the colors 

 

I have a 26-20 but unfortunately it doesn’t look like yours. 

John 

[27donb]

Congratulations! 

[BuickTom87]

Beautiful ride , love the pre 30 Buicks 

[28Buick]

Thank you to all, especially Hugh. His detailed engine resurrection procedure is exactly what I need. It may be a few weeks before I get this beauty to my garage and implement those helpful procedures. As you first mention literature, here is the reading that came with this car (not in any order as I'm pulling it out of the box)

1. 1929 Buick Shop Manual

2. 1927 Special Features and Detailed Specifications

3. 1928 Reference Book (several copies, have not counted pages yet)

4. 1929 Reference Book

5. 1928 Special Features and Detailed Specifications

6. Fisher Body Service Bulletins (most seem to be about wood parts)

7. A half foot stack of correspondence and receipts on authenticity (PO tried to get everything correct).

8. Photo album showing the frame-off restoration.

Thanks for linking me to the Buick Heritage Alliance. Looks like I will get the Book Of Parts 1928 Series 115 and the Supplement to the 1927 Shop Manual - Buick 1928 Models.  As 1928 is a Supplement, do I need the 1927 manual as well, or does the 1929 Shop Manual cover it? I am fortunate to join this helpful community of enthusiasts.

[BuickTom87]

Wow , how long did that take to type out Hugh. That’s incredibly helpful 

[Hubert_25-25]

Tom, 

    That write up came from being on this Pre War Buick forum for over 7 years and getting a lot of good advise from so many other knowledgeable members.  I cannot take all the credit.  There are several threads that I have tried to consolidate and this is one of them.  This started from some very early notes when I had purchased my car.  

 

Hugh

[28Buick]

Huge credit and a big thank you to Hugh Leidlein for outstanding advice. I changed the title to this thread removing the original seller's reference to a Master Six. As recommended by Hugh I ensured the water pump was free. It was also a good way to drain the antifreeze that was clear and green. I pulled the plugs and valve cover and lubricated everything. I was able to turn the engine with the hand crank. I dropped the oil pan, found moderate sludge (pictured) and a hole in the pickup screen. Hugh gives important search links above but the most useful search is for this word: "Hubert" This reveals detailed solutions on many issues for the prewar Buick.

 

A note on buying the shop manuals from the Buick Heritage Alliance. Their price is $142.00 for the 1927 and 1928 Supplement. I ordered both from RockAuto for $27.79. These two Detroit Iron pubs are under license by General Motors and the graphics and grey photos have excellent detail at a significantly lower cost.

 

I found a prior thread on no-spark on this same vehicle. I verified my coil has 8 ohms primary and infinite resistance on the secondary. Bob's Automobilia only lists "Ignition Coil 6-Volt . Correct For 1929-53."  Is there a source for the 1928 ignition coil? Will the 1929 coil work instead? While there I ordered the pan gasket, a condenser and plastic float.

 

I have questions about fluids and possible carb issues. Should I start new threads or place them here? As a neophyte member I respect the local practice as some car forums get testy if the subject wanders in a thread. Just for grins I attach a sludge and holy screen shot below.

[Hubert_25-25]

Thanks for the note on the books.  I added that note about Rock Auto to the New owners information.    

 

Really glad to see that you dropped the pan.  

 

McMaster Carr sells replacement screen material.  I used 50/50 solder to resolder new screens in place.  I bought the solder on Ebay.  

 

I'm not sure why Bobs started with 1929 for the coil.  I would think he could reference that to earlier years.  But he is a parts seller, so someone has to tell him.  I did buy his coil and it is working in my 1925 Buick.  

Hugh

[EmTee]

1 hour ago, 28Buick said:

Should I start new threads or place them here? As a neophyte member I respect the local practice as some car forums get testy if the subject wanders in a thread.

Now would be a good time to consider starting a thread for your car in the "Me and My Buick" forum: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/58-me-and-my-buick/

 

That way you can keep everything together in one place and it makes for a nice journal of what you have done for future reference (for both you and others).  You can kick it off with a link to this topic. 

[Hubert_25-25]

I think you will have a better response to technical questions on this Buick Pre War website.   The Me and my Buick section seems to have a lot of short postings, and introductions of peoples cars which is a good thing.  I think it's good to do a search on a question first, and then either add to another search that is relevant to your topic, or start your own.  I do also know owners that have just kept posting in one place, so there is no right or wrong answer.   Words and especially photos is what people want to see.  

[28Buick]

While waiting for parts I measured compression between 65 psi and 75 psi across all six cylinders. Drained out all the old fuel and I am reluctant to tweak anything on the Marvel carb until after fresh gas and a good spark. If it is easy to inspect the float without disrupting anything please let me know. I filed and sanded the pan gasket surface flat, as the PO made extensive use of blue gasket maker, but Permatex ultra black gasket maker may be better this time. Considering a magnetic oil plug. There are two different lengths of oil pan bolts so they will go back in the same holes as there does not seem to be any pattern or reason for long bolt placement. I powder coated the oil pan for appearance and durability (pictured).

 

I appreciate the Me and My Buick Forum advice, and that is where I may post the interesting history of this car once I have this classic sorted out. This was a frame-off restoration by Harry (no last name, passed away last year) who was a General Motors engineer born in 1928, making this his dream car. He was meticulous about authenticity and both the interior and exterior materials and paint are per original specs. He replaced all the wood and I have yet to find any rust beyond the exhaust. It is going to take a while to read Harry's records that I have sorted by decade. As I know nothing about the standard 28-20 it is great to have the advice and wisdom of the members of this Buick pre-war site. Thanks again.

Edited July 27, 2023 by 28Buick (see edit history)

[Hubert_25-25]

This is a drawing of where the long bolts go in the oil pan on a 1925 Buick Standard.  The long bolts are used to hold the engine pans on either side of the motor .  If you have these pans, you will want to powder coat them as well.  The extra length of bolt sticks above the threaded hole in the block casting.  The pan sits on the flange of the block and a nut and washer is used on the top side.  

You can remove the cover on the float bowl and observe the liquid level while the engine is running.   Hugh

[28Buick]

Hugh, Thanks so much for your oil pan map. This explains why those engine pans suddenly got loose! I have images of the long bolt locations that match your diagram. The pans seem to be in good shape when looking down from above (right side pan pictured) so they may not need powder. Now that they are unbolted I will see what can be done. Good news, the 6V coil arrived today and the spark is healthy. Just waiting on the screen and gasket.

 

[Oldtech]

Re the Marvel: You can take the 4 screws out and take the top off the float chamber to have a look. You can even run gas from the vacuum tank with the lid off and check that it holds.  This won't disturb anything.

[Hubert_25-25]

The engine pan on the water pump side is OK with regular paint.  The engine pan under the carburetor will likely lose it's paint after gasoline drips on it for a while.  Looks like the previous owner did several things on the originality side, but I would roll the lower radiator hose that says "Made in Mexico" to the back side.  Bob's sells the correct hose clamps as well.    

[hidden_hunter]

I dumped a bottle of this in the fuel system on our 26 buick 

https://www.liquimoly.com.au/2772-fuel-system-cleaner-conditioner

 

I'd kind of assumed it was snake oil but found it on sale for like 10 bucks, and it cleaned up all of the varnish on the things like the fuel bowl so it might be worth chucking something like that in the system 

[28Buick]

Oldtech, Hidden, thank you for the carb advice. Can't tell by looking if the float gets soggy, so I filled the chamber with gasoline (pic 3) and we will see if it sinks. The float is black so it may be coated with something.

Hugh, good point about gasoline drip. I thought I could clean it up but the finish on the left pan is rough. So I pulled the pan and will powder coat it along with the two pipe flanges (pic 2). There is a lot of stuff in this area that will eventually look good with a shiny coat but I should stay on track with the restoration slogan: First make it stop, then make it go, last make it show.

BTW in the post above I think there is a decimal error: "Screen size is .005 brass 32 x 38 wires per inch." I just got a 0.005 brass screen from McMaster and it is way too fine (pic 1). I'm thinking the oil pickup should have a 0.05 brass screen?

[Hubert_25-25]

The black float is Nitrophyl.  That is what people use as a cork replacement.

 

I have pulled the oil screen from my spare engine and the other engine being repaired to verify screen size.  Setting the dial calipers at 1"and counting the holes each way, I have a grid 28 x 29 holes.   The wire is .008 OD.  I looked in McMaster Carr and came up with 9241T61 which is .008 and 28 x 30 mesh.  The opening looks good at .025 x .0277 which appears to match the square size of the original screen.    The brass screen shown is what was measured and used previously.  I got this from Kevin Roner and what is shown is my left over piece.  You can see thru it.  I do not know what McMaster Carr sent you. I will update my notes with this McMaster Carr number. 

   Hugh

 

Edited July 28, 2023 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[28Buick]

Hugh, thank you so much for the screen detail. I did not use the correct McMaster search criteria so your specs are good. I repaired the screen, put on a cork gasket, attached the pan with 55 inch-pounds on each bolt (and 2 nuts). I may torque it to 80 inch pounds if there are any drips. Here is a belly shot of the reinstalled and coated oil pan and left & right engine pans, that provides an "after" view in contrast to my July 13 picture above.

Edited August 1, 2023 by 28Buick (see edit history)

[EmTee]

4 hours ago, 28Buick said:

I may torque it to 80 inch pounds if there are any drips.

That sounds like a good number to me.  You will likely have to check them after every thermal cycle for awhile before the cork stabilizes.

[Guest]

5 hours ago, 28Buick said:

 . . .if there are any drips. . . 

But that's how you know there is oil in it!  Oh wait this is my first Buick, the others a model t. . .

[28Buick]

I actually followed the Ford Model A leakless pan gasket procedure. It is interesting that this forum does not allow PDF attachments. So here is a link to the article that I hope works for you.

https://lesmodela.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/leakless-pan-gasket-article.pdf

The general idea is that cork expands on oil contact to make a perfect seal. For this reason the gasket gets no Permatex or coating of any kind. I just applied Permatex copper on the seams at the four spots that meet the pan end cork arcs. A day later I retorqued as a few were loose. So far no drip.

[28Buick]

Today was start day. All went well. Here is a 2 minute video on the procedure. Ran for about 5 minutes before the water started to boil out of the overflow tube. Eventually will hold antifreeze but it is just water now as I intend to rinse out the radiator. Some fuel around the carb worthy of investigation. Engine seems strong.

 

Edited August 2, 2023 by 28Buick (see edit history)

[EmTee]

7 hours ago, 28Buick said:

The general idea is that cork expands on oil contact to make a perfect seal. For this reason the gasket gets no Permatex or coating of any kind.

Maybe so, but when I replaced the cork pushrod cover gasket on my '38 last fall the old cork gasket was totally saturated with oil.  It had apparently broken down to the point where it was acting more like a sponge than a gasket.  I did use some Permatex gasket maker on both sides of the new cork gasket.  I also used moderate torque on the bolts (around 75 in-lbs. if I recall correctly).  I checked them each day following a drive.  I probably had to do that 5 or 6 times before the torque value held steady.  So far, no leaks!