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1st Gen - Propeller shaft slip spline lubrication


65VerdeGS

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I have a '65 Riviera.

 

The Shop Manual states that the Propeller shaft slip spline is to be lubricated every 12,000 miles, with "Lithium EP Grease".

 

This slip spline is accessed via a hole in the frame in the area where the "X" members of the frame intersect.

 

Fig 1-2 on page 1.3 "Maintenance" of the Shop Manual says "Remove plug, lubricate and replace plug".

 

On my car there is no 'plug', which has gone missing.  

 

When I took the car in for service recently the mechanic said he couldn't lube the slip spline because he didn't have the necessary fitting for his grease gun.

 

So, what sort of fitting is needed to lubricate the slip spline?  Is this fitting something rare, or easily obtained? 

 

I guess I'll have to buy the fitting and lend it to the shop, or crawl under the car myself and apply the lube.

 

What happens if the slip spline runs dry of lube?  What symptoms would develop?  Do you get a noise setting up?  What does this noise sound like?

 

 

 

 

 

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It is probably a slim extension/adapter to allow reaching into the joint.  The adapter has to be held firmly against the fitting since it can't grab the zerk fitting.

 

CNC Table Grease Gun Accessory Kit - Arclight Dynamics

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3 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

I have a '65 Riviera.

 

The Shop Manual states that the Propeller shaft slip spline is to be lubricated every 12,000 miles, with "Lithium EP Grease".

 

This slip spline is accessed via a hole in the frame in the area where the "X" members of the frame intersect.

 

Fig 1-2 on page 1.3 "Maintenance" of the Shop Manual says "Remove plug, lubricate and replace plug".

 

On my car there is no 'plug', which has gone missing.  

 

When I took the car in for service recently the mechanic said he couldn't lube the slip spline because he didn't have the necessary fitting for his grease gun.

 

So, what sort of fitting is needed to lubricate the slip spline?  Is this fitting something rare, or easily obtained? 

 

I guess I'll have to buy the fitting and lend it to the shop, or crawl under the car myself and apply the lube.

 

What happens if the slip spline runs dry of lube?  What symptoms would develop?  Do you get a noise setting up?  What does this noise sound like?

 

 

 

 

 

My shop did the one on my 1963. They used the needle adaptor as JZRIV pointed out.

 

Bill

 

 

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Rather than the original spec grease, might consider the newer syn chassis grease that includes moly (to meet the wheel bearing lube specs for "Ford disc brakes").  Valvoline makes one, used to be in a darker blue cartridge, but is now gray.  This way, better lube which should last longer.

 

Good lube shops used to have a different "needle end" for their grease guns, seldom used, back then.  Considering that modern vehicles have FEW grease zerks on them, not surprising that the shop had no "needle".

 

For modern times, might there be some plastic or rubber plug which could be reliably put in that hole, not needing a wrench to make happen?

 

NTX5467

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The needle is for the CV Joint lubrication.

The plug is a regular grease fitting size you can find on MANY of the greaseable front end components on our Riv's.

The grease fitting adds out of balance weight & you will usually end up with a driveline/driveshaft vibration.

 

Tom T.

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18 hours ago, telriv said:

The needle is for the CV Joint lubrication.

The plug is a regular grease fitting size you can find on MANY of the greaseable front end components on our Riv's.

The grease fitting adds out of balance weight & you will usually end up with a driveline/driveshaft vibration.

 

Tom T.

Yea I missed that and thanks for correction Tom. Shop manual says remove plug and lube. With the slip joint being inside the frame tunnel removal and reinstall of plug is not a fun task. Much easier when the shaft is out.

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Within a week of buying my '64 Riviera I was at the Buick dealership to have the CV joint greased with their needle. They gave me a service ticket for $1.50. When I paid the cashier said "Wow! No one gets out of here that cheap."

 

While I was hanging out with Fred and Lynn, the two mechanics., this was 1978, I noticed the music in the shop was coming from a 1965 showroom radio display with a '65 AM/FM radio playing. The only difference between it and a ;64 was the knobs. I asked the guys what it would take to get that radio from them. "Just another radio" was the reply. After paying the bill I ran up to Grants and bought a nice new AM/FM for about $20. And everyone was happy. The radio is still in the car today.

 

On the point about using the factory part, definitely. I can tell some real horror stories about hardware store  bolts, etc. being used on cars.

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On 5/19/2023 at 4:50 AM, gungeey said:

You definately want to get the plug. Road dust is building up in there. 

 

It's not conventional hardware

 

1/4•24 with a 9/32 hex head

 

 

20230519_074447.jpg

Thanks all for the info on the fitting and plug.

 

Now where do I get the correct plug?   Any ideas?

 

Looks like I need to buy the needle adapter needed to reach the joint? 

 

Can I get both the plug and the needle adapter from a jobber like NAPA?

 

Thanks again.

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