57 Buick Century to bring back to life

[Stephenca118]

Thank you all.  I did mark the flexplate/converter location so it will go back together in the same spot.  Yea I do not think putting the torque converter on the flex plate to run on the test stand is a good idea.  I do not want to disturb the transmission at all.  It does not appear to be leaking at all and the fluid looks clean and red.

I will be pulling the pan and checking a few bearings so I will look at that vacuum pump and take a few pic.

Have not touched it after pulling it, will need to do some major scraping of crud, then power wash when the wind dies down.  Maybe Wed. I can get to it.

Thank you all again and have a great week,

Steve

[Stephenca118]

I finally got back to work on the Buick.  Got interrupted by getting parts for my Olds.  So anyway, scrapped off a bunch of crud, got the freeze plugs out......not looking too good.  Guess I will vacuum out the block best I can then power wash the heck out of it, then see how it looks.  No budget for a rebuild, yet. 

Got the brakes and wheel bearings done.  Debating replacing one rear drum.  Have not looked at the M/C yet.  Radiator is getting recored.  Gas tank being cleaned, new sender unit.  Carb is back together.  Carpets got delivered.

Have a great weekend,

Steve

[lancemb]

Dang I have an extra radiator already recored I could have sold you...

[Bloo]

Get all of that out that you can now with the power wash and anything you can find to poke with. Put a sock in the upper hose to catch what comes loose later when you run it so it doesn't plug the radiator. Evaporust can be used to get the rest of the rust out later. Details here:

 

 

 

Edited October 29, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[EmTee]

x2 for installing a 'stocking filter' at the upper hose connection to the radiator.

 

[NailheadBob]

You may also use a mini-hose adaptor kit to aid in the cleaning of block core plug passages access, this may help.

 

Bob

 

EDIT mini hose adapter kit for shop vacuum 

Edited October 29, 2022 by NailheadBob
Update (see edit history)

[Stephenca118]

Thank you very much for the info gents, and a great idea, never heard of the evapo stuff and the filter, I already asked the boss for stockings, did I get a WTF look. 

Not windy today so I will probably be getting wet.

Thanks again, I will follow up with pictures when I am done.

Steve

Am I supposed to be listing cars I got? if so:

1957 Buick Century, I think it is a 63 (not mine)

1946 IH K2 fire truck

1953 Ford Customline 4 Door

1962 Oldsmobile F-85 2 Door

2018 Audi Q5 (hers till the new Jeep comes in)

2021 Ram 1500

[Smartin]

It helps to pull the heads when power washing out those passages.  I had one here last year that was clogged up bad like that.  Timing cover was off, too.  That stuff is everywhere in the block.

[Stephenca118]

Back.  Hope to pick up the radiator and gas tank tomorrow.  The ATF cooler is shot and he is having trouble finding one so I will go with an external and plug the outlets.

Got the power wash done.  I will install a coolant filter and a sock and run all evaporust for a while.

Hesitant to pull the heads, don't really want to if I can avoid it.  They would probably need milling and a valve job and I don't want to go there.

Got the pan off and now debating bearings.  I pulled one rod cap, looked worn with a bit of copper showing at the bolt ends.  odometer says 98k.  Then I started scrapping crud in the pan.

This car is not mine and is supposed to be low budget, get it to run and stop safely so he can take old grandpa for a ride before he passes.

Very tempted to slap it back together and see if it runs, and/or knocks.

I guess I will pull a few more rod caps and maybe a main cap, but don't want to disturb the rear main as there is no sign of rear main leaking.

Oh, grandpa is 88.

[EmTee]

I would Plastigauge the rod and main bearings that you pull for inspection.  That will tell you how bad (or good) they are.  Definitely worth cleaning the pan and oil pump pickup screen.  You might also want to pull the oil pump apart and check wear on the gear side of the cover.  Also inspect/clean the bypass orifice and spring.

[JohnD1956]

You are probably already figuring on changing the core (freeze) plugs at the back of the heads and if not, i suggest you do. 

[Stephenca118]

Good morning and good points.  May as well do those items as the motor is out.  So will do but it will be a few days yet before I can get back to it.  Thank you again for your suggestions.

Steve

[drhach]

It seems like at this point, trying to save money upfront is just going to create more expense down the road. 

[Stephenca118]

Good evening,

 

Thank you for the nudge to change out the freeze plugs behind the heads.  I did that and it is a good thing.  It also allowed me to finagle the temp sensor out of the head, that had broke off.  It was pretty well rusted in there.  Then I flushed out the block some more.

I did PG the rods they were all at .0015 with one at .002.  They looked a bit worn but not bad so I am going with them.  Will do the mains tomorrow.  Going to leave the oil pump alone, I was getting oil at the rockers during my comp test.  I did clean the screen.  Power washed the engine bay.  Hopefully I will be putting the motor back in on Sunday.

Thank you again for the feedback and input,

Have a great weekend,

Steve

[NailheadBob]

@JohnD1956 Another great idea from John to replace freeze plugs in cylinder head, he has been there and done that.

 

@Stephenca118 please could you measure the depth (where cylinder head bottoms out inside the head to the to the top edge where the nut is started on the head) cavity where temp sensor tube/bulb goes in.

 

and if old tube/bulb is not destroyed please measure the length of the tube/bulb.

 

I can't wait to see this engine back in the car, you're doing a great job.

 

Bob

[drhach]

Good job getting that out. Mine is a little newer and just has a pipe plug in it. I tried everything and couldn't get it out.

[Stephenca118]

Here you go Bob.  The depth of the hole to the edge of the head was 2 1/8 inch.  That was to the top of the head where the threads start.  Looks like the sensor is about 1 7/16 or so.

Drhach, I would not have been able to get it out without drilling if I had not removed the freeze plug.  Then just PB blasted it on both side and wiggled it free.  Then I used a brass HB bottle brush to clean out the seat for the sensor.  Came out pretty good.

Thank you again for your input, have a great weekend, 

Steve

 

 

Edited November 4, 2022 by Stephenca118 (see edit history)

[NailheadBob]

Thank you very much Steve, great information for all of us on the forum, AND me.

 

Enjoy your weekend.

 

 

Bob

[Stephenca118]

Got back to doing a bit on the Buick after the wind storm.  Tree down missed my shop but hit the neighbor's.  No damage, just a mess.

Got the timing cover on finally, yes, I did remember the oil slinger, pan tomorrow, then freeze plugs and repair exhaust manifold broken bolt.  Got the exhaust flapper working, was completely froze, was afraid I would break it but it flaps and spring returns like normal.  We will see what happens after it gets hot.

Thanks for looking.

[Stephenca118]

Making slow progress on the Buick, the motor is in.  Got the interior cleaned, went with cleaning instead of recovering the upholstery.  Found some other issues and questions.    

[Stephenca118]

Got the heater plenum out, found this, guess I will be getting wired.  Going to put in a push button via a relay for start to bypass the carb start switch.

[Stephenca118]

What are these two items for?

[NailheadBob]

The lever controls the windshield wipers, and the button is for windshield washers.

 

 

Bob

 

EDIT: what is the issue with your starter button circuit? Sometimes the ball sticks in the carburetor switch at carburetor, but when carburetor was rebuilt possibly was cleaned? maybe needs to be taken apart and cleaned inside watch for ball rolling out if taken apart. the wiring at the carburetor switch see if you have power there with ignition key on.

 

Also with the empty cavity for "accessory" look under dash and see if speed alert switch is hanging by cable, is looks like a small and short speedometer cable that goes to the left side of the speedometer case housing. 

Edited November 17, 2022 by NailheadBob
added information (see edit history)

[Stephenca118]

Thanks Bob!  I had no idea that was for the W/S wipers.  The button is missing, not going to mess with it.  

On the starter circuit, not sure the relay is any good, will check it first when I get into the wiring, someone has been in it before.  I did rebuild the carb and the ball is there in the switch does work, no wires going to it though.  I did find the relay by the regulator and everything is very rusty, have not got to checking those out yet, but soon!

Putting in the carpet today and starting on the wiring.

Have a nice weekend,

Steve

[NailheadBob]

In #2 post of your photo's, one was with carburetor and there was a 2 wire connector attached to the carburetor, it was a red (pink faded) and white (yellow faded) in a 2 wire connector,

 

The starter relay, LOCATED on the drivers side inner fender panel close to the block with the heavy starter cable area, is usually contact points inside (remove cover of relay) rusted or corroded stuck together, once cover is off use ignition point file or sandpaper to clean contacts.

 

4 wire starter Relay, # 1- BLACK goes to starter solenoid, # 2 - PINK to ignition switch, # 3 - PINK to accelerator switch / then YELLOW to neutral safety switch, # 4 - LIGHT GREEN to generator.

 

Make sure car is in park OR neutral for starter circuit to work, I know you already know this, but just a friendly reminder, because you are such a talented guy, and sometimes I over look the basics.

 

Bob

Edited November 23, 2022 by NailheadBob
Add photo (see edit history)

[Angelfish]

Sounds like you're past this stage already, but to flush out the block I used a piece of steel brake line about 18" long. I flared one end and poked it though a garden hose cap with a hole drilled in it.  Leaked a lot but made a very high pressure water jet that could be threaded deep into the block.  You can experiment with trimming and bending the end to change the angle of the spray.

[Stephenca118]

Thank you for the info, sorry been busy, got back to work on the Buick.  I had ordered that coolant filter, gano or something like that,   after a few weeks I checked and shipping date was going to be Feb. 27, so I canceled the order and bought a different style.  Finally got it, installed it and filled the radiator with water first to check for leaks.  Tried to start it, first time since 88.  Well my rebuilt carb, yes I did it, flooded.  Reset the floats.  Didn't flood but would not start. ( Sorry Bob, bypassing the carb switch for now, I will work on it, think I got the wiring figured out).  So I found, actually my neighbor who was helping me, found the wire to the ballast was not connected.  Hooked it up, cranked it over and sputtered and spit, and settled into a nice smooth purr.  Blew a big mouse hotel out the exhaust, among a bunch of other unidentifiable stuff.

It was tail in on the rack, so I had to finagle an exhaust out the shop window.

So it runs and runs very smooth and amazingly, it does not smoke at all.  The video is 44 MB so I can't attach it.  I will put in a pic from the video.  Lots of rust in the coolant filter at first.  Cleaned it out and not so much now, got the stocking in the inlet now, after the cold snap we got coming next week, I will put the back end outside and run and flush the cooling system.  The trans goes into gear, had to add a gallon of ATF, but I did install an external ATF cooler as the original leaked.

I flushed the oil system, good oil pressure and the gen is charging.

Next is getting the carpet installation completed, install the seat.  The owner wants me to do the weather stripping, and exterior detail.  Interior detail was completed and the seats came out very nice.  Rear is original, fronts are a recover.  Two windows will not go down, so need to work on that.

Got the olds on the rack now, fixing the exhaust system that someone welded to the body.

Thanks for the feedback.

Steve

I hope to drive it around the block after the first.  Weather permitting.

[NailheadBob]

Glad to see your progress and thanks for the update.

 

I do like you exhaust hose/pipe out the window 😂

 

Bob

[Stephenca118]

Hope you all have a great New Year.

I have started mine out with getting back into the Buick, oh, and the Olds, but mostly on the Buick.

After the Holiday festivities I started with the electrical system, all the lights and such.  Got everything to work except for the turn signals.  Ended up pulling the steering wheel and found the plastic cam that raises and lowers the T/S switch wire was broken.  Checked out some hints of what to do in the forum and ended up drilling and tapping a #40 hole in it and carefully put in a screw with a nut at the head, and it works great.  I am being gentle on operating it.

I have had the motor running and using the evaporust with the inline filter to clean our the cooling system.  Starting it 2 to 3 times a day.  The motor runs great and does not smoke, which I find amazing.

I installed all the weather stripping, carpets and seat belts.  What a pain.  The weather stripping is done except for the leading edge of the rear windows for the hardtop.  I just got a sample  to check.

I had to remove the RF window regulator and redo it.  The swing pivot was completely rusted solid.  I had to put it in a vice and use large channel locks with lots of blaster to finally get it working smoothly.

It is coming along but still got a ways to go.

I have not driven it out of the drive yet, mostly because of weather and brakes.

I got brakes, if I stand on the pedal.  So, what am I looking at?  I am tempted to open up the M/C booster and see what I got.  The motor runs great so I do not suspect a massive vacuum leak through the booster.  So that is the next project.  I am guessing from the book that I have the Morain type of booster.

Also what do you all do about the broken auto choke vacuum line?  I remember back in the day installing a "choke stove" that transmits hot air into the auto choke housing.  Is that what everyone is using or is the in thing to convert to electric?

Those are the two major items I will start on tomorrow.  And I will snap a few pics of the finished interior.

Well that's it for now.  Have a great week.

Steve

Ye Olde Car Club

1946 IH K2

1953 Ford Customline 4 Door Sedan

1957 Buick Century 4 Door Hardtop (not mine but it feels like it)

1962 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass Coupe

2021 Ram 1500 Hemi Laramie

2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland

[Smartin]

Master/booster is the delco (moraine) style.  Have you done anything to the braking system?  It likely needs a total rebuild, looking at the rest of the car.  Hoses, wheel cylinders, master/booster rebuild at the least.

 

Cars, LLC has the replacement choke line kit.

[EmTee]

8 hours ago, Stephenca118 said:

I got brakes, if I stand on the pedal.  So, what am I looking at? 

Have you replaced the brake hoses?  If not, I would definitely do that.  A collapsed hose can cause that symptom.

[Stephenca118]

Good morning and thank you for the replys on the brakes.  I have done a complete rebuild on the rest of the brake system, drums, shoes, all wheel cyl, all hoses, some steel lines, I guess booster is next.  I will check Cars for the choke kit.

Thank you all for reading.

Steve

[NailheadBob]

If you elect to change over to electric choke, also purchase 1/8" NPT Tee fitting, and remove oil gauge copper line at passenger rear of block

Add PS-64 three terminal oil pressure switch and S-956 wire harness connector, all standard brand name, so only will power electric choke with engine running.

needs 12 Volt power, can use yellow wire at ignition resistor power feed.

Possibly may need to flip choke spring over to work with your carburetor.

 

If you need to remove power brake booster, purchase 1-3/4" shallow 12 point 3/4" drive socket, and a 1" punch tube, 2" long and weld it to the end of socket.

Then you will be able to remove large nut inside car at firewall that secures power brake booster to car, by using a 1" wrench OR punch.

Follow directions from service manual on removing booster.

 

I like your idea using #40 to drill, screw and nut, to repair nylon pivot ball that attaches to cable for turn signal switch

 

Bob

[rocketraider]

Bob- wouldn't one need to install a tee at the oil pressure tap to keep the oil pressure gage functional? Short nipple, tee, install gage tube in one port of the tee and the electric switch in the other? 

 

I've put electric chokes on a couple of my QuadraJets using the three terminal oil pressure switch. Very worthwhile investment, especially for plugged or burnt out choke heat tubes. Which, on Olds engines, the heat tube bolts will invariably break off in the intake and turn a half-hour job into a days-long ordeal.

 

I also have a good story about a Holley Pro Shop rebuilt QuadraJet that I specified an electric choke when I ordered it. Suffice to say even the supposed "pros" screw up once in a while, though you'd think carburetor specialists would know choke coils come wound two ways.

[Stephenca118]

Thank you guys for the update on the electric choke conversion.  I will try a stove first and see how that works.  Good idea on the switch in the O/P line.  I will think about it.  Going to carefully take it down the street and see if it shifts, or not.  Here is a few before and after interior shots.  I still need to do the trunk.

Thanks again,

Steve

[Bloo]

I'm confused about what is broken on the choke stove? Rusted out tube? Can't you just make it a new tube? For the moment I can't remember what the nailhead's choke stove and tube look like, or what the problem might be, and I am not seeing it in your pictures. I have re-made the choke stove tube out of Bundyflex (brake line) for a bunch of Fords in the past. They are always rusted out or broken. It was a fiddly job but not horrible.

[rocketraider]

2 hours ago, Stephenca118 said:

Going to carefully take it down the street and see if it shifts, or not.

Dynaflow do not shift in D. Step on the gas pedal and it just keeps accelerating. Smoothness is the nature and intent of Dynaflow.

 

You can try starting in L or G and then bump it into D to test the Dynaflow's functions but that's neither recommended nor necessary for a Dynaflow to do its thing.

 

Yah, it took me a long time to quit thinking in HydraMatic too!🙃

[Smartin]

Two very important things I've learned about these braking systems in the last couple years:  1 -Make sure the brake shoes are arc-ed to the drums.  2 - Anchor pin adjustments must be made to center the shoes in the drum housing.  These two items can be the biggest improvement in pedal assuming all other things are taken care of.

 

Anchor pin adjustment procedure is in the chassis manual.

[EmTee]

26 minutes ago, Smartin said:

Anchor pin adjustments must be made to center the shoes in the drum housing.

THAT ^^^^^

[NailheadBob]

@rocketraider                      Bob- wouldn't one need to install a tee at the oil pressure tap to keep the oil pressure gage functional? Short nipple, tee, install gage tube in one port of the tee and the electric switch in the other? 

 

Glenn,

Yup, I should have added that on, usually on '57 & '58 Nailheads have a brass fitting on passenger side rear on block (flat area that butts up to bell housing area) that oil gauge line attaches to, would need to remove fitting from block, add Tee-fitting, then brass fitting for oil gauge line, then oil pressure switch.

 

Bob

 

EDIT: @Stephenca118 the interior is looking great.

Edited January 11, 2023 by NailheadBob
update (see edit history)