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My 58’ Century Caballero Estate Wagon Build


jackofalltrades70

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  • 3 weeks later...

Working on the firewall insulator. Have most of it installed, but have this piece left over.  Everything is covered, except to the right of the vent behind brake pedal assembly. Any ideas?  There wasn’t anything there when I took it apart to change it.  I already put the passenger side vent assy on

correctly. Had it upside down…..🙃

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally have all the dark blue painted.  Hung the rear gate and hatch back on the car.  Removed all the masking and plastic. Starting to look like a car again.  In a couple days, will go pick up the seats.

 

installed the drivers vent window frame and stainless trim on top of doors on the drivers side.

 

Busy weekend

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Matt:

Re: the engine, might want to give the block a careful look for cracks behind the starter.  Had to replace my 364 because previous owner must have let it freeze during winter.  Very slight leak until it really let go.....p/o did not disclose prior to sale.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I suspect when you restore the mechanicals, you’ll have to work on the Dynaflow’s torque ball and spline shaft seal.  I hope you detail the process as well as you have with the painting and trim work as a lot of us suffer with leaky Dynaflows…..   

My Dynaflow repair…. for what it’s worth:
I have a ’50 and ’57 on my “to do” list …(and “re-do” list).  Despite my previous repair on the ’50, it still leaks a bit, although not at the torque ball.  The leak appears to be at the spline shaft seal (aka propeller shaft seal) where fluid runs past the toothed seal then down the torque to the differential.   I have a small hole drilled just before the diff flange  for drainage.  Without it, the differential would eventually fill with tranny fluid until it was forced out the wheel bearings, contaminating the brake shoes and wearing away the diff gears.  Not looking forward to a “redo”, but must learn why the spline seal continues to leak……and how to correct.  

FYI…I chose not to remove the torque tube completely and not to disconnect the springs, I left them  connected and pulled back the tube about 6-8 inches with a winch, keeping the assembly under tension.  That allowed me to remove everything and made reinstall/realignment of the tube/splines much easier.

Looking forward to your continuing restoration.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
2 hours ago, jackofalltrades70 said:

Bumpers are huge and many components on a 58’. $2500 each bumper.  Plus all the rest of the chrome. Gonna be a pretty penny, but well worth it

 

Here in France we often send the chrome parts to Spain (not the same standards), and the price is around 1200/1500 € for a large bumper

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On 9/29/2023 at 1:32 PM, jackofalltrades70 said:

Shipped that whole container by freight through Estes Freight for $200+/- from PA to WI

Where did you get that nifty shipping container?  You were able to ship it just like that, and it will ship back in same container?

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