Gas tank questions

[Todd Puzey]

Hi gents and ladies. I’ve recently acquired a 1925 dodge brother sedan from the son of an elderly gentleman that passed away a few years ago, and the son is selling his small car collection.

This 1925 was restored by the previous owner in the 1980’s, and it is now a bit rough around the edges but overall is still in nice condition.

The restoration he did looks like a driver quality one, which is fine by me and my initial goal is to make the car a reliable driver, and then decide in the future what to do with it.

The car has sat for several years, and the last 3 or 4 outside but when I looked at the car I filled the vacuum fuel pump with fresh gas and it started up and idled immediately. I shut the car off as soon as I saw some amber coloured gas coming into the aftermarket clear inline fuel filter and was happy that it’s a runner.

 

So onto my actual questions! My first order of business is to drop the fuel tank and fuel line and clean them. The removing part is obvious, but pumping out the tank today I did come up with a few questions.

1) the small fuel plug is stuck in and has been badly mashed by someone with vice grips. I’m assuming the best way to remove that would be to drill it out and tap the threads once the tank is out and cleaned? Can anyone enlighten me on the tap to use, I’m assuming pipe threads?

 

2) the entire gas tank assembly was painted black back in the day, including the fuel cap, etc.

since everything will be out, and it’s easy to strip paint off of removed components, what would have been the factory correct “finish” of the gas cap, fuel gauge bezel, and fuel tank straps?

 

Lots and lots of questions to come on the old girl as I start to get familiar with it, but I appreciate any help/ advice you can give.

[Todd Puzey]

[gossp]

That looks like a fun car!

 

I believe the fuel tank plug is pipe thread, but as you get working on the dodge you will be amazed how many fine thread bolts are used. All of my recent experience is with Dodge Brothers 9 or 10 years older than yours so things could have changed.
 

If fuel, even old and turned dark, was flowing I would be tempted to just keep trying to remove the plug in the car and drain the tank for a couple quick flushes.  Pulling it and cleaning it is always a good idea… but with only a couple months of driving season left… I wouldn’t take it apart!

 

Myers Early Dodge and Romar dodge parts will be your friends.  

[Todd Puzey]

Looking at Myers parts, it appears the tank straps, fuel cap and fuel gauge bezel should be bare metal.

is that correct?

[MikeC5]

The fuel gauge bezel is nickel plated.  I'm not sure about the gas cap.  The straps come unpainted from Myers but it was easy enough to paint them black. How much gas is in the tank?   If there isn't too much bad gas in there, it might be easier to fill it up with some good gas and then drive it to near empty.  I agree it's probably pipe thread on the plug but I didn't measure mine when I had it removed.  In the off season, siphon out what's left and pull the tank (if it's as easy as on a touring car).  Then with it on the bench you can deal with the plug.  Maybe Myers will know what the plug specs are.

 

FWIW, even though my tank wasn't leaking, I could see some rust in there and so a couple of winters ago, I pulled it out, and coated it with a sealer inside (be sure it is impervious to alcohol).  I also did the vacuum tank, which had some fairly advanced rust on the out tank (on the inside).  Just preemptive maintenance to combat the alcohol-laden fuel which seems to cause more corrosion issues.

 

Nice looking sedan, by the way!

Edited August 20, 2022 by MikeC5 (see edit history)

[nearchoclatetown]

The '25 cap is unique, and is Cadmium plated. I have a good tank if you need it and come to Hershey. Gauge is nickled. Plug in bottom is 1/8 pipe thread. When you get it out replace it with a machined brass plug, not a cheap China cast bronze one like Horrible Freight sells. To get the old one out buy a NEW large Vice Grip. Grip the plug from the end not side of VG. Then use an adjustable wrench to turn the VG. This is after soaking it for days with GOOD juice, not WD. 

[Todd Puzey]

So does anyone have a tip on what the best tool is to remove the seized knurled fuel gauge ring?

[Mark Gregush]

RE the gas gauge ring, try a small strap wrench. I put a drain valve in mine instead of the plug. If I need a bit of gas, easy to open and drain off a little bit. 

[Todd Puzey]

Great idea

[TonyAus]

To get the gauge ring off run a piece of broken hacksaw blade or a thin knife between the glass and the ring.  The aim is to dig out the remains of the top gasket.  Then apply a liberal dose of your favorite penetrant (WD40 etc) which should drain down toward the threads.  Keep a pool of penetrant on top of the glass for a few days, gently tapping around the outside of the ring each time you think of it.  Only then will you have any success with a strap wrench  - patience is a virtue.

 

The quick way is to apply heat to the ring.  This is also a quick way to the undertaker.  

[Bullfrog_eng]

I have had a lot of success in heating and cooling nuts, bolts and things to make it easier to remove, usually with an oxy torch. That would not not be appropriate, in fact very dangerous, on a fuel tank, of course. But I recently had trouble removing a jet from a carburettor and for similar reasons, I did not want to use a naked flame near fuel (mate used to call it "bang water"). I used an big old 100 watt electric soldering iron to heat the jet and when cool it came out quite easily. Might be worth trying on the fuel tank bung to heat, then cool, to loosen the bung.

[Ron Lawson]

The safest way to work on your gas tank is to syphon out as much gas as you can Drop the tank out and tip any remaining gas out Gasoline can find its way into seams and you can end up with a violent explosion if you use a hot wrench (Oxy Acetylene torch) Two ways of getting rid of the trapped gas fumes is with a heated pressure cleaner or connect a hose from the exhaust of a car and fit it into the filler hole The heat from the exhaust gasses will heat the tank allowing the gasoline remnants to be expelled Plus you are pumping carbon monoxide into the tank and that is an inert gas Once you have done the cooking segment then you can heat the plug with your torch I have repaired many tanks using these methods and I have never had an issue  Hope I have been of some help 

[Todd Puzey]

Thanks for the tips!

[cutdown]

The fuel drain plug may be better dealt with while the tank is held in place.  Try using Stilsons [ sorry Monkey Wrench to you guys ]. They are designed to grab tighter the harder you pull. Once you have it out, throw it away or get someone who knows what he is doing, to weld a decent hex nut in place of the square. Sockets or ring spanners rarely bugger up nuts. Depending on what drains out of the tank, you can then decide what to do next. Once you have finished the job, keep the tank full at all times. Driving regularly is good for old cars [ at least once a week for 5-10 miles.  Have fun. Remember its the GRIN FACTOR when driving these old cars. The bigger the grin, the happier you will be.

[RAH]

On 8/20/2022 at 8:59 PM, TonyAus said:

To get the gauge ring off run a piece of broken hacksaw blade or a thin knife between the glass and the ring.  The aim is to dig out the remains of the top gasket.  Then apply a liberal dose of your favorite penetrant (WD40 etc) which should drain down toward the threads.  Keep a pool of penetrant on top of the glass for a few days, gently tapping around the outside of the ring each time you think of it.  Only then will you have any success with a strap wrench  - patience is a virtue.

 

The quick way is to apply heat to the ring.  This is also a quick way to the undertaker.  

Guys, Here is another answer to removing the gauge and rim without leaving plier tool marks. It was made from a 1" x 3" x 3' hardwood board. Using a hole saw for the hole and cut a 1/8" slot and a carriage bolt with washer and nut. Will get a grip on that 80-100 year old rim that was likely on since installed in factory.  Good Luck