First Buick, 1930

[Jake Tenney]

Picked up my first Buick, a 1930 , I believe it's a Series 50. I'll be looking for a few missing pieces,  like rear door handles,  and the bar between the headlights with the Buick logo in the middle.  Been sitting since 2000, so I'll clean the carb this weekend and try to get it running,  got some learning to do also! 

[Jim Nelson]

There is a list of things you need to do  BEFORE you even try to start your fine Buick.    I've had 3 Buicks (down to one).   37-46,  38-46s,  35-58 VICKY.     So my knowledge on engines prior to 35-50 series is not the best.   There are others on this thread who can tell you all the things you need to do.      First,  get a service manual for your car.    My 35-58 Vicky has fairly good  service manual on what maintenance needed for your engine.   Lubrication for tranny,  rear end, wheel bearings etc.     I have collected for my education,  service manuals for 35 -50,  37-40 series,  38-40 series,  47-50 series, and 53-50 series manuals.   They are all slightly different because the writers emphasized things they thought were important.   They all thought me something I found educational.      Check your coolant for condition and level.   You would be surprised how much crap is clogging your cooling system.   These are non-pressurized systems,   Pull your oil pan and clean the sludge that has been accumulation for way to long.   Get two or three oil pan gaskets and at least two for your valve cover assembly.    Same for water pump gaskets.    If you can,  get a complete set with the duplicates I mentioned.     A brand new 'big' 6 volt battery.   Get a trickle charger for 6 volt battery's.    Careful with your 90+ year old wiring.      There is more,  but this is a start list that is needed BEFORE YOU START YOUR ENGINE.    You have a very nice looking 50 series sedan.   Enjoy it,   keep it up and it will give you a fun and great education of those '1930' Buicks.   They drive quite nicely on the road.   So much to learn.   I've got only 10 years education on my Buicks.   Its the ole - so much to learn and so little time.    ( I'm 79 + and I'm still learning ).     PS,  We use Shell Rotella T4. 15w40 engine DIESEL oil.    Its available from Walmart.   Buy it in gallon containers with a couple of quart size's for topping off.   Their prices are great compared to your local auto parts store.  It has enough 'ZDDP' additive ( very important additive) for our old engines with solid lifters.   Don't use Regular modern oils as they have very little to non - ZDDP additive and that is a big no- no.    This should get you going - - -

[Morgan Wright]

What Jim said. I worked on my car for 2 years before I even dreamed of trying to start it. Those babbitt bearings are awful fragile.

[Mark Shaw]

My best advice is to lubricate literally everything before trying to start your Buick.  Put MMO in the cylinders, engine oil on all the valves and verify they all move with the push rods when hand cranking.  Oil every rotating part you can find; even the door hinges need oil (It takes years to find a replacement).

Door handles and the Buick "bow tie" reproductions are still available if you look via The Internet.

 

[Jake Tenney]

All great advice! Where is the best place to get gaskets? 

[Jim Nelson]

Well put Mark.  Many parts we're probably lub'd  at the factory and never done again.    In my 37 and 38 Buicks,  I found they were never lub'd other than at the factory.     The outboard rear axels - roller bearings were done once and never done again.   Why ?   Difficult to get to requiring disassembly of the third member  (remove rear axels ) and removing the rear brakes and backing plates etc means they were ignored until the car was junked ' traded ' etc.    quite time consuming just to get to those  bearings.      So,  Morgan and Mark are giving you the BEST thoughts on getting ready just to start the first time.     This time you give your Buick will be returned many times over.    I personally can not give you that as my stuff is still readily available from  Bob's Automobilia and  'Car's'.     It may require checking sources and places like this from those who know.   Its there,  just keep looking.     AACA  web site for Buick pre war parts will get you going.   

[Pete Phillips]

1 hour ago, Jake Tenney said:

All great advice! Where is the best place to get gaskets? 

Olson's Gaskets in Washington state.

 

https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

[Jim Nelson]

See !   One of our Buick nuts knew where to go.    There should be several of us 'nut's' who can steer you to sources and people whom' have been there and done that' to make your travels down Buick lane easier.   

[Morgan Wright]

I would never start a babbitt bearing car that didn't have fresh oil on the main and rod bearings. The oiling system on these cars is the splash and mist system, which requires the engine to be running to create the mist. If the car was running recently, the bearings still have an oil film, but it the bearings are bone dry from sitting 22 years (since 2000), the mist won't get on them until they may have been damaged. The rod bearings can get oiled by simply putting some oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit a few days to drip down the rods to the bearings. But how do you pre-oil the mains?

 

I bought a can of "Liquid Wrench With Lube" which contains teflon lube and oil in the spray can. With the oil pan off, I got under the car and shot copious amounts of the stuff at all the main bearings, and the cam shaft bearings. Can't hurt to spray the rod bearings again too. 

[Morgan Wright]

[Jim Nelson]

One of my saying's is - -  If more is good,  then too much is enough !

[Oldtech]

3 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

I would never start a babbitt bearing car that didn't have fresh oil on the main and rod bearings. The oiling system on these cars is the splash and mist system, which requires the engine to be running to create the mist. If the car was running recently, the bearings still have an oil film, but it the bearings are bone dry from sitting 22 years (since 2000), the mist won't get on them until they may have been damaged. The rod bearings can get oiled by simply putting some oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit a few days to drip down the rods to the bearings. But how do you pre-oil the mains?

 

I bought a can of "Liquid Wrench With Lube" which contains teflon lube and oil in the spray can. With the oil pan off, I got under the car and shot copious amounts of the stuff at all the main bearings, and the cam shaft bearings. Can't hurt to spray the rod bearings again too. 

Actually... These cars have full pressure to the crankshaft and a modern type drilled crank. They also have roller tappets - and dual valve springs.  should be able to get oil pressure cranking on the starter in short sessions.  Still Pulling the pan is always a good idea. 

Edited August 20, 2022 by Oldtech (see edit history)

[Morgan Wright]

Thanks. I wasn't sure what year they stopped using the splash/mist  system. (What year did they?)

[Mark Shaw]

10 hours ago, Oldtech said:

 They also have roller tappets -

Make that Roller Lifters...

[Bill - 29 Buick]

Once you do everything the others above have suggested, your engine can be cranked over without the ignition on which will allow you to oil up things without having the engine run.  You can crank it over until the oil pressure gauge starts to climb and then turn on the ignition.  This is also good for when the car has sat for any length of time.,

 

Bill Mclaughlin

1929 McLaughlin Buick Roadster

 

 

[Bloo]

Good advice. And if it's been a really long time like this one has, I would take the spark plugs out. It takes some of the strain off the dry bearings, and makes the engine spin faster, which probably makes the oil pump prime faster.

[Morgan Wright]

Not sure what roller lifters and dual valve springs have to do with the oiling system.

 

I know Chevy was using the splash oiling system until the early 1950s, but when better cars are built, Buick will build them.

Edited August 21, 2022 by Morgan Wright (see edit history)

[Oldtech]

17 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

Thanks. I wasn't sure what year they stopped using the splash/mist  system. (What year did they?)

I think 1924 was first year with pressure lube.  I know 25 had it.   Yes, Chevy milked it all the way to 1952. They improved it a little by having nozzles that squirted oil right into the dippers so that tray depletion at high speed wasn't an issue. 

[Bloo]

22 minutes ago, Oldtech said:

Yes, Chevy milked it all the way to 1952

1953! I had one. Only on stickshift vehicles after 1952 though. Cast iron pistons, too....

[Jake Tenney]

Thanks to everyone,  I took a ton of advice from you and got it started safely today,  even have 40lbs oil pressure.  I used a temporary gas tank directly to the carb. My fuel pump diagphram is bad, so I'm waiting for that to come next week. 

Edited August 21, 2022 by Jake Tenney (see edit history)

[Bill - 29 Buick]

Before you start the car using the original fuel delivery system, I’d consider taking off the gas tank and having it cleaned out.  After 22 years the gas will have gone bad and may have congealed.  Try a radiator shop.  Or, try Gas Tank Renu.  And clean out the fuel line to the fuel pump and between the fuel pump and carb. 
 

Bill McLaughlin 

1929 McLaughlin Buick roadster 

[Oldtech]

18 hours ago, Bloo said:

1953! I had one. Only on stickshift vehicles after 1952 though. Cast iron pistons, too....

Right. Forgot the std shift / powerglide  thing.

[Jake Tenney]

17 hours ago, Bill - 29 Buick said:

Before you start the car using the original fuel delivery system, I’d consider taking off the gas tank and having it cleaned out.  After 22 years the gas will have gone bad and may have congealed.  Try a radiator shop.  Or, try Gas Tank Renu.  And clean out the fuel line to the fuel pump and between the fuel pump and carb. 
 

Bill McLaughlin 

1929 McLaughlin Buick roadster 

Yes I'll take the tank off and clean it,  it's empty but has a lot of residue in it.  I have done this with several old tractors,  and I usually end up installing a new fuel line.  

[fundytides]

I have a 30-31 Headlight bar in excellent condition if you still need one. Only drawback is mine is "McLaughlin Buick".

Edited August 30, 2022 by fundytides
This item has been sold (see edit history)

[Jake Tenney]

22 hours ago, fundytides said:

I have a 30-31 Headlight bar in excellent condition if you still need one. Only drawback is mine is "McLaughlin Buick".

I'd be interested,  I'm close to Canada anyway lol. Can you text me @ 231-690-3633,  or email jake_t327@yahoo.com 

[Jake Tenney]

I made a 3d model on Solid works CAD, and had my cousin 3d print this.  I need to scale it down and add mounting features to use aluminum bars on the sides.  Then I want to have a foundry cast a few in aluminum.  In the meantime,  I'll take what I can get!

[Pete K.]

Those '30 Buick's use a fan with a gear driven oil pump in it. Rotate the hub of fan and you'll see an oval head screw. Take it out to fill reservoir with oil, replace screw. Under the front plate of the fan hub which has about umpteen screws on it and a paper gasket under it, you'll find two little gears, one stationary with the shaft and other driven gear mated to it. They're supposed to pump the oil, (more like circulate it) to bearing/shaft.