fundytides

I have a 30-31 Headlight bar in excellent condition if you still need one. Only drawback is mine is "McLaughlin Buick".

Need a steering box assembly. Probably the same as Dodge truck. Could pick up at Hershey.

Thanks for all the great info. We have a used backing plate, with adjusters in place, on the way. Don't think the backing plate is useable but we will salvage the adjusters and from what you have said, will be careful to end up with the pin end at the correct height so that the shoe is sitting in the proper position.

Thanks again c49er. Do you have the part numbers for the spring and washer as well?

Thanks c49er. That's a great diagram. I feared that this was the case and that lasting repair would be difficult especially if using used Pins (5-21-2) as the end would have to be ground off to remove them from the salvage vehicle. Good used backing plates with the adjusters intact would be ideal but may be hard to find. Do you know if the pins, washers, springs and cams are available anywhere either as NOS or repro? If so maybe they could be swaged in a hydraulic press. In any case, thanks again. This diagram explains the assembly perfectly.

I'll see if I can find out. Thanks

Thanks Jack. Didn't realize that those rivets had anything to do with the adjuster. Thought they just kept the brake shoe spring in place. I'll have to take a closer look.

You are overdue for a return visit. Probably should make it in a warmer time of year , especially if you are still travelling by motorcycle. Let me know if you are coming. My wife and I have visited the Lancaster area a couple of times and really enjoyed it. Thanks again for your help. Here's a couple of pics of my cars

Thanks Terry. I will try him. Missed Hershey this year (and last) because " foreigners" (in this case Canadians) weren't allowed to cross at the US land crossings. Hope things will be better next fall. Here's a "before" picture of the truck. It is currently disassembled, frame painted, brakes redone (well 3) and new tires mounted on redone wheels. Body, motor and transmission are all in the respective shops being prepared for re-installation.

This is a picture of a similar one on a 1/2 ton. Don't need the shoe retainer springs, just the adjuster that goes out through the backing plate and has a bolt head and spring on the back. Can't see how to take it apart. Maybe if I had a new one in hand, the process would be obvious

In the process of resurrecting a 1950 Fargo 1 ton truck. Basically a Dodge, built to be sold by Canadian Plymouth dealers. I am rebuilding the brakes and found that someone has removed the adjusters on one rear wheel. Any body know if these can be bought anywhere and secondly what is the process for installing them? Does the cam have to be swaged on to the shaft?

Hi Russell, I'm thinking $75. I am currently in Florida and won't be back at home in Canada until early May. If you are interested in it I could send you some pics when I get home or if you want it, I will consider it sold and notify you re payment when I get home. Whatever works for you. Thanks, Dave

Hi, I sent you a couple of files last year but you couldn't open them One of the other members converted them to pdf which you were able to open. Is there anything there of interest to you?

I don't know how to change the lists to a different format. I could print them and mail them to you or fax them. Just so you know, I am in Canada, so some of the manuals for US Vehicles are Canadian versions.

Hi Auburn Attached are a couple of files of material that I have for sale Shopmanualsbrochures.xls ownersmanualsmisc.xls

I have had work done by Cambridge Chrome http://cambridgecustomchrome.com/and would recommend them. They did a Model T Ford rad shell for me a few years ago. It had "made in canada" in fine print under the Ford logo and it was still very clear after the rechroming. Much smaller item than the Packard probably but the price was in the $600 range about 5 years ago. Some rechromers offer show chrome or driver chrome so be sure to specify what you want so it will be priced appropriately.

There is a possibility that the problem is with the right brakes. If for some reason the right hydraulics are not working correctly and the left ones are, the car will pull to the left. I had a similar problem with a later Chev and after attempting to find a problem with the side that was pulling, discovered that the cylinder in the other wheel was seized and not operating. Fooled me for a while.

Not sure what "internals" you are looking for but my Hollander Interchange book shows that the rear drums are unique to 41-48 Lincoln but the wheel cylinders for 39-48 Lincoln rear brakes are the same as Hudson, Nash and Packard cars of that period. Not sure of your year or exactly what parts you need, but if you want a complete list of makes and models using this wheel cylinder, let me know.

Back in the day, I had one of these cars that was running rough. Tried to adjust carb but no improvement. Bought a rebuilt carb and it worked great for about a week. Then the power valve started leaking raw gas into the intake. I replaced the power valve and everything was fine. Worth a look to see if your problem is associated with a bad power valve after you have eliminated the other things that have been suggested. Good luck!

According to the interchange manual, the Champion engine was used in the following vehicles: 1947-49 Champion 1941-48 M5 truck after Engine IM-8566 1941-48 M15A truck after Engine 2M-7795 1949-50 2R5 & 10 truck to Engine 1R-95492 1949-50 2R15 truck to Engine 2R-12076 "Champions have starter on left side while trucks have starter on right side. To interchange pass and truck switch starter to proper side by installing rear mounting plate, oil pans, filler tube and oil stick from replaced motor" There is also a note that some earlier engins can be used but changes in addition to above are needed-timing chain cover, drill hole for oil stick, etc. Also some earlier motors have shorter stroke and less horsepower and therefor are not recommended. Hope this helps. Good luck!

If you have the model # and the engine #, I can give you the interchange info from a 1950s Hollander Interchange manual

Suggestion to try the Stovegolt forum is right on. I have a 1947 Chev QW 2 Ton and have found lots of help and info there. According to an old Hollanders Interchange Manual that I have, your truck should have come with a 235 with the prefix HDA, HDM HEA or HEM in front of the engine number. The number you quoted for your engine dosen't make any sense for Chev engines up to 1956 so I am not sure what it is.

I am using a good original trunk lid to rplace the rotted out rumble lid on my 31 Roadster project. As I see it the steps are: 1. Remove trunk handle and latch and fill hole (done). 2. Drill lid and mount my original rumble latch and handle. 3. Mount my original rumble hinges to the lid. Here's where I see an issue. The hinges were mounted to my original rumble lid using flat head machine screws with nuts welded inside the lid for them to go into. I don't see any convenient way to attach the nuts to my replacement lid. Has anyone done this and if so any easy solutions? How about using self taping screws in place of the machine screws or will the inner shell of the lid support these. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

I haver a 1931 Canadian Std. Roadster. The original engine, which has since been replaced was Serial CAS1963 according to the old registration. Unfortunately, the old block is long gone so I can't verify the serial number. It seems that this would be a very low serial number for a 31 so maybe the S should be a 5 or?. Does anyone know the range of seial numbers for Canadian 31's?