Bypassing neutral safety switch

[Summershandy]

I want to test my switch and don't want to fry anything out. The manual states, "disconnect two starter solenoid circuit leads from neutralizer switch and connect them together." I'm assuming it's the two wires at the switch? Let's call them black and white. I've highlighted them with white arrows. Disregard the old picture. 

 

 

[Bloo]

It just about has to be those you highlighted. I see more wires. Back up lights probably?

Edited May 18, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Summershandy]

10 hours ago, Bloo said:

It just about has to be those you hughlighted. I see more wires. Back up lights probably?

 

Yes those other two wires are indeed back up lights.

I wondered why one wouldn't just take the white wire off the switch and connect it directly to the solenoid to bypass. Reason being the wire terminal doesn't fit on the solenoid terminal, it's too small. Probably to deter one from eliminating the safety switch. I had forgotten how corroded everything was including the switch. The pic must have been just after getting the car. Everything's been cleaned, painted or replaced.

[PONTIAC1953]

yes, the two wires that are fasten with two screws are for the neutral safety switch, the other two wires with push on connectors are for the back up light switch. part number 1998039 used on 1953-1956 Pontiacs except for the 17,000 1953 Pontiacs adapted to the power glide transmission.

[PONTIAC1953]

[Barney Eaton]

you should be able to test the switch on the car. 

Disconnect the battery.    

Unhook the link to the shift lever. 

With a meter across the terminals, you can now move the switch lever to ON and OFF position and watch the meter. 

[Summershandy]

Well, it may be too soon but I've taken the car out the past 2 days and started it over a dozen times. I haven't had the click no crank issue that I've had in the past. It used to happen every couple starts or so.  I'm kinda convinced the problem lies in the switch. It's too bad it can't be rebuilt because I like the originality....but I also like it starting each and everytime! I've heard of people shooting some WD into things but I don't want to really mess it up. It still works and is required for a road worthy certificate for (gulp) resale. Any thoughts on bringing more life back to the switch?

[Andy J]

Try some electronic equipment spray that is used to clean potentiometers (volume controls) in audio equipment.It is some kind of liquid that cleans contacts and evaporates quickly leaving no residue.

[Summershandy]

37 minutes ago, Andy J said:

Try some electronic equipment spray that is used to clean potentiometers

 

Ah yes....I actually have a can kickin' around. Hard to say if it'll even seep in there but worth a try!

[The 55er]

Give the screw contacts on the switch and the ends of the connecting wires a thorough cleaning. That's all you can do to it. I would never mess with the switch itself or try to spray anything into it. If the starting problem persists I would remove the starting motor and solenoid and have both checked by a professional auto electric shop. 

Edited May 22, 2022 by The 55er (see edit history)

[PONTIAC1953]

On 5/18/2022 at 2:46 PM, pontiac1953 said:

after this picture, I took my dremel tool with wire brush attachments and cleaned up the four terminals, the two screws, and the two square washers.

[Summershandy]

Thanks but every connection in the car to the best of my knowledge has been cleaned thoroughly. It must be for 6 volt operation. It has to be internal. Wiring is also solid. You can see from the original pic how rusted the outside of the switch is. I suspect some crept inside. I've since cleaned it including the screw heads. It may look new but doesn't work new. 

 

Edited May 22, 2022 by Summershandy
add on (see edit history)

[Oldtech]

Did you say it "clicked: but no crank. If so it's not the switch but  the solenoid. 

[deac]

The rotating arm of the switch in my 57 simply broke off and was dangling so the previous owner bypassed the switch by connecting those 2 wires and the car started in any gear.  I found a NOS switch on eBay and put it in; problem solved  My car has back up lights however there are no signs of the wires so that ends up being another project that goes on my To-Do list! I would look for a switch  and replace yours. I 100 percent agree that electrical connections should be clean especially on a 6 volt system.

[Summershandy]

On 5/27/2022 at 12:15 AM, Oldtech said:

If so it's not the switch but  the solenoid.

True in stating the solenoid is making the click and not generating enough to spin the starter. I've gone through the primary and secondary wiring, connections and ignition switch. I've also inspected the solenoid inside, turned the bolt contacts and cleaned the plate. So far the car starts each and every time with the neutralizer switch bypassed and that's ok with me. Besides, it looks like a new solenoid is gonna cost me around $300. I'll repost after many more rides to confirm any further starter issues. 

[Summershandy]

1 hour ago, deac said:

I would look for a switch  and replace yours.

Gladly, if I could find one and it didn't break the bank!

[Bloo]

There's no reason to ever completely replace a solenoid on one of these unless a winding burns out. Since you have tended to the copper bolts, you should be all set for a long time. The copper bolts are the only common failure part in these solenoids.

[PhilAndrews]

I had "click no crank" and it was the inhibitor switch.

 

It was 1) dirty 2) adjusted incorrectly.

 

The bar inside was sitting on the very edge of the contacts, and many years of high (enough) current from the solenoid had caused it to arc and char. That would pass enough current to make the solenoid jump and then off again.

 

That switch does come apart carefully, and the contacts can be cleaned- watch not to remove the coating, the reverse light contacts and inhibitor contacts are different colors, you can see that.

 

Then, as per the manual, note that in N the arm should not be on the rest.

 

Apologies for upside-down photo.

That's sitting with the gearshift lever sitting on the N detent.

 

Phil

[Summershandy]

I remember when I got the click, I would hold the key in start and wiggle the shifter in hopes of making better contact, thus confirming the switch. I also played with adjusting it. It would either start or not start in neutral. I haven't taken it out much lately but it even seems to turn over a little stronger and quicker. If the weather holds out today I'll take it out for more start and stops. 

[Summershandy]

I decided to remove the switch and check it out. I was surprised how easily it can be taken apart. The 3 tabs are easy to bend back. Then if you refer to Charles pic, you can tap it apart by the black tab. Inside are 2 copper contacts, those are for the starter and the silvery ones are the reverse lights. There's a disc with dimples with a spring underneath. To note, nothing went "boing" so no fear there. It wasn't as ugly as I though but I lightly sanded the disc dimples and took a dremel to the contacts and lightly made them shiny again. The surface inside seemed a bit gooey so I figured that would be a lubricant, so I cleaned that up and gave it a light film of dielectric. Put it back together and guessed it's adjustment. It started first crank. I'll play a bit with the adjustment if needed and re-post any changes and results. Sorry for the quality of pictures but you get the jist....not my camera!

 

Edited June 9, 2022 by Summershandy
spelling (see edit history)

[PONTIAC1953]

On 5/18/2022 at 2:46 PM, pontiac1953 said:

after I took this picture, I got my dremel tool set, and rotary wire brushed both screws, square washers, all four terminals, even where the two rivets, it cleaned up quite nicely, I mailed it to a friend who bought it from me, he finally installed it, and told me that it works perfectly.

[Summershandy]

When I reinstalled the switch, I looked how far left and how far right you can adjust it. I picked around the middle and tightened it down. I had to move the car today and it didn't quite fire up first crank. Second try... just a click. Many it's not fully contacted inside? So I'll move it a little and keep trying. There is only about 1/2" travel for adjusting.....this is gonna take time!

[Bloo]

I would connect a multimeter set for continuity to the backup light terminals (since they're smaller), put it in reverse, and turn the switch each way until the circuit opens. Then, pick a spot halfway in-between.