Justinlb Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 The brass fittings on the oil filter line I have aren't too great anymore, the flange fittings are too worn to make a seal and it's causing a pretty good leak. Thread tape won't help either I found some npt fittings that would work great, however I can only find copper tubing for it. Is there any reason I shouldn't use copper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 you should be able to get steel tubing. try McMaster Carr for a starter. you will see engine oil pressures up to at least 60 psig and that is to much for copper. You can get reducers on those fittings by retapping larger and then using original size brass fittings or steel fittings. Not a big problem, just sourcing the fittings takes a bit more time. Using your computer to help search makes our world much easier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) 34 minutes ago, Jim Nelson said: you should be able to get steel tubing. try McMaster Carr for a starter. you will see engine oil pressures up to at least 60 psig and that is to much for copper. You can get reducers on those fittings by retapping larger and then using original size brass fittings or steel fittings. Not a big problem, just sourcing the fittings takes a bit more time. Using your computer to help search makes our world much easier. I think you need to know what year the car is. Early cars used copper tubing as the original equipment. . . Edited March 30, 2022 by Morgan Wright (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justinlb Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 12 minutes ago, Morgan Wright said: I think you need to know what year the car is. Anything pre-war used copper tubing as the original equipment. Sorry, didn't include the year. It's 1940. The lines I took off are steel, but all the fittings are brass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) Post a picture of a fitting. The fittings are probably "threaded sleeve" fittings. You may not need to replace the lines , but you might have to cut a tiny bit off the end. Pictures will tell the story. If they are "threaded sleeve" fittings, Blackhawk Supply carries them. If you want or need to replace the steel lines, the steel tubing is Bundyflex brake tubing. It is the same as most old fashioned brake tubing. NAPA should be able to get it. Although they are pushing more modern coated brake line today, I believe they still have the old type in the warehouse. I think we just had a pages long thread about all of this, didn't we? Edited March 30, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 1 hour ago, Bloo said: I think we just had a pages long thread about all of this, didn't we? Did I do that...? https://forums.aaca.org/topic/375221-320-rocker-shaft-oil-feed/ 2 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Copper tubing and brass fittings have pressure ratings way above anything your car will produce. 3/8 copper tubing has ratings approaching 1,000 psi. and the smaller the diameter the greater the pressure ratings are. Bob Engle 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 IMHO, brass fittings are sorta OK because of their construction and size. But the copper tubing is not the best choice. I used SS tubing because of its ability to handle temps and stress that copper will not. I used SS tubing in the pressure gas industry and would never pass inspection using copper. In my other world, copper is verboten. Domestic potable and waste water, low pressure liquids are acceptable but for our usage for oil pressure lines, the automobile industry went to steel for safety. Copper is to soft for most of the auto industry. The average guy will not realize that there is different copper tubing and might choose the one that is incorrect. There is soft copper (usually 'pure' ) and some versions where coper is much harder but it is easier to go with steel. Again, JMHO from another life. Do what you prefer ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 23 hours ago, Jim Nelson said: you will see engine oil pressures up to at least 60 psig and that is to much for copper. In the 1920's the oil pressure hovered around 15 - 20 psi, with the gauge maxing out at 30. I didn't realize by 1940 Buick was making engines that would put out 60 psi of oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 (edited) The trouble with copper is that it work hardens and if you attach it to a vibrating engine eventually it will crack and fail. I realize some automakers used it early on. There were less options available then. Modern CuNiFer brake line looks more or less like copper, bends like copper, wont work harden, and can handle enough pressure for brakes. It would be a good substitute for copper. Stainless Steel is a pain to bend, but it will always look good. Me? If the old line was steel I would just use steel Bundyflex. It bends reasonably easy, but nowhere near as easy as CuNifer. You'll need a bender of some sort to prevent collapse of the tubing no matter what tubing you use. Edited March 31, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justinlb Posted April 2, 2022 Author Share Posted April 2, 2022 Ended up using the copper nickel tubing, it's at least 3x stronger than the pure copper tubing but still bendable by hand. Thank you all for your help, it's much appreciated. 👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas k Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 Hi, Regarding your comment about the 1920's oil pressure in the 15-20 psi range. My 1927 Buick Master Six has historically been in that range but as of late it has been over 25 close to 30 during 20 mile rides. Is there any concern with that? probable cause? Thanks in advance, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raydurr Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 My 1929 Buick uses brass originally in this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 (edited) On 9/27/2023 at 9:35 PM, thomas k said: Hi, Regarding your comment about the 1920's oil pressure in the 15-20 psi range. My 1927 Buick Master Six has historically been in that range but as of late it has been over 25 close to 30 during 20 mile rides. Is there any concern with that? probable cause? Thanks in advance, Tom I am not the expert, but in my mind oil pressure is controlled by the relief spring and plunger. Typically, the old relief spring breaks and the oil pressure is reduced, or fluctuates indicating a problem. An increase in oil pressure, might be caused by a sticky relief valve plunger? Meaning, if the plunger is stuck and won't move the pressure would build until it finally does. Also I would suggest verifying the actual reading with another gauge before diving deeper, maybe the solution is something more simple. Edited September 29, 2023 by 27donb (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas k Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 Thank you. I understand your probable causes and suggestions. I hope to keep driving it and see if the higher pressure reading persists. Would you know if there is any risk or concern with that approach? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 If it's something to do with the pressure regulator, I suppose a risk is that the spring breaks and/or the piston frees up and pressure suddenly drops lower than normal. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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