thomas k

Thank you Hugh, Your comments about the stripe properly going below the upper molding reinforces my thoughts and makes much more sense. Thanks for the stripe width guidance and for all of the other striping placement descriptions and pictures. I continue to learn and appreciate all of your expertise. Tom By the way, any plans to come East this year?

Hi Larry, Thank you ! The pictures you added are an excellent depiction of the location of the two gold stripes , one above and one below the lower black molding. Any thoughts as to how wide or thick the gold painted stripe should be ? 1/8 " maybe ? Regards, Tom

Research reveals: BCA Judging Handbook Year Model Code Lower Body Color Code Stripe Moulding 1927 27-40 Delaware Green 58642 Gold(2) Black Buick Special features and detailed specifications brochure Three gold stripes are used; one above the upper moulding and one above and below the lower moulding. I don't necessarily favor one gold stripe above the upper molding and believe I will only add the two gold stripes (one above and one below) the lower black molding. Question: Would anyone have advice/knowledge on how wide or thick the painted gold stripe should be? Thanks Tom Kiefer 918858

Also Larry, What type of paint did you use for the black and red colors used on the brackets?. Auto body paint or something else? Enamel or something else? What gloss level did you choose? and finally did you use a clear coat spray after all the painting was complete. I finally removed my brackets and would like to attempt something as nice as you did.Thanks ! Tom

Admiring the great job on the custom paint job(red,black,silver) on the two brackets. Question: I would like to do the same and assume you did the custom paint work with the brackets removed. How do you remove them? It seems like I would need to compress the top and lower bumpers to remove the brackets to paint and then do the same to reinstall? Thanks Tom

One other silly question, why red on the bracket? Is it to match the body color?

Thank you. I understand your probable causes and suggestions. I hope to keep driving it and see if the higher pressure reading persists. Would you know if there is any risk or concern with that approach? Tom

Hi, Regarding your comment about the 1920's oil pressure in the 15-20 psi range. My 1927 Buick Master Six has historically been in that range but as of late it has been over 25 close to 30 during 20 mile rides. Is there any concern with that? probable cause? Thanks in advance, Tom

Thanks Larry, that is very helpful and the additional picture of your front bumper looks fantastic! I have purchased Rustoleum Automotive "universal silver", I hope that fits the bill. The red and black brackets you painted yourself are a work of art. You should go into business :). Regards, Tom

Thank you Larry. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. Your bumpers look great. This may be a little to granular but did you do the powder coat "chrome look" silver yourself? If so, would you recall the paint brand and name ? And would you have the brand and name of the silver paint you used on the inside of the rear bumper? (or would it be the same silver you used on the front bumper). Mine is a GO car as well :) Tom

On the topic of Buick color codes. Can anyone clarify for me what "current" color would be used to paint the bumpers on my 1927 Master Six. It was restored 40 years ago with no color code records.It appears to be some shade of gray or silver, perhaps Silver CAD? Need to repaint to freshen up and correct scratches and ding marks. Thanks !

Gentlemen, On the picture where you reference "adapt the 1927 brackets" for the car with the Pa. plates: What type and color paint was used to restore the bumper? Is it a Silver CAD or some other shade of gray? I need to repaint the bumpers on my 1927 Master Six sedan that was restored 40 years ago but the bumper has now become worn and dinged up a little.

On the topic of Jesser's Classic keys: Has anyone had success in contacting them recently? I filled out their online N.O.S. key request form a month ago and have left multiple voice messages over the last month, all with no response and no one answers their phone.

Hugh,EmTee,Fred, Thank you all very much for your advice. Fred, thank you for the clarification on the '27 not having the hole and threaded pin. A locksmith sounds like the next viable option although I may decide just to leave well enough alone for now as it certainly is driveable in the unlocked position. I do still have the ability to lock the driver and passenger side doors with a seperate key. Different subject: Series B AC speedometer: The trip meter knob to reset that dial to 0 now just spins without moving the dial.( it did work previously). That dial and the odometer however still both advance and record addded mileage when the car is driven but the speed function does not work. Russ Furstnow has been very courteous and helpful in trying to find a replacement but unfortunately cannot find a good match with the bezel I need. Again, maybe I should just leave well enough alone but any thoughts on that reset knob?

Thank you ! I will give that some serious thought.

Hello, This is a rather delayed reponse to my question regarding my frozen transmission lock. My Briggs and Stratton keys is actually stuck/frozen in the lock itself in a position that still permits moving the shift lever so I believe it is in the unlocked position per Hugh's diagram. I have recently sent the key ID # to jesserclassickeys to order a duplicate to have on hand. I have been thouroughly applying WD40 with vey little movement occuring with the lock cylinder and no movement whatsover in trying to extract the key. Question: should that cylinder move up and down no mater what gear the shift lever is in and does it turn clockwise or counter clockwise if working properly. This is now just a challenge to remove the key and have it lock and unlock properly, but as I said previously, until I get the new key (which I can't use until the existing stuck key is successfully removed) I may be better off doing nothing since I can shift and drive the car in the "frozen" unlocked position. I have not tried the acetone & transmisssion fluid suggestion yet. Thanks in advance Tom

Thank you ! I could not be more grateful, As you may tell from my postings, I am just becoming familiar with the whole restoration process, the searching for parts and suppliers, online technical research, and trying to determine how authentic I want to be in all of these steps. You are most helpful. I am looking forward to utilizing the links to the suppliers you provided.

Thank you Kevin, great advice. I will investigate your recommended resources. Do you by chance have names or links to any of the multiple online parts websites that you are familiar with?

Thank you Larry, it's worth a try .

Hello Larry and Hugh, It is so nice to "meet" you through the forum. I can't begin to express my appreciation to both of you for taking the time to respond to my questions in such a thorough manner , including your pictures Hugh. Larry, I have taken your advice and I am in the process of looking up or obtaining the reference manuals you recommended. To answer your location question, I am located in the Finger Lakes region of Upstate NY and have just touched base with the head of the BCA Finger Lakes chapter and have joined that club. Hugh, your pictures are fantastic and eerily similar to the what I believe to be the original interior of my Buick ( although not as nice as yours). Yes, I am trying to find 2 rear side window curtains with the rollers and hardware or just the rollers and hardware. My rear window curtain is intact, including the green silk curtain material, and I have located a vendor to replace the silk and refurbish the hardware. He will do the same if I can locate 2 side rollers(curtains)and hardware. I hope the attached pictures give you and idea. Regarding, the lock, my key is frozen in the lock itself in a position that still permits moving the shift lever so I may be better leaving well enough alone or if I did try to loosen it, I will certainly follow your advise to use lots of WD40 and be gentle ! I am a snowbird and will be attending the AACA Winter Nationals this weekend in Miami. I hope there will be a lot of Buicks on display ! Thank you again gentlemen. Hugh I have read all of your posts/answers with great enthusiasm. If there is a link to more of your photos that would be much appreciated. Regards, Tom