65 - Hot lamp came on and puked

[RivNut]

3 hours ago, EmTee said:

Find a machine screw that fits snug in the hole.  Insert it so that the head is in the exhaust side.  Cut the screw leaving about 1/8~3/16" sticking out.  Put a piece of pipe or other 'anvil' against the head and peen the cut end of the screw to plug the hole and hold it in place (like a rivet).

Good idea.  I have found out lately that rather than than using a typical screw, I can do a lot better using a self tapping machine screw with a hex head rather than a slot or Phillips head.  You can get a lot of torque on one using a ratchet or breaker bar. 

[Brtele]

Tapped the existing hole with a 5/16-18 tap and easily screwed a grade 8 bolt in the hole. Used some permatex high temp thread sealant on the threads. Let it set up and started the car - no exhaust leaks I can hear, but didn’t get to temp.

 

 Replaced the heating valve with a new four seasons valve.

 

 Replaced the thermostat with a new 180 stat. 
 

I’ll start the car tomorrow and see if I can spot any hot/cold spots in the radiator with an infrared temp sensor.

[Brtele]

Tapped the existing hole with a 5/16-18 tap and easily screwed a grade 8 bolt in the hole. Used some permatex high temp thread sealant on the threads. Let it set up and started the car - no exhaust leaks I can hear, but didn’t get to temp.

 

 Replaced the heating valve with a new four seasons valve.

 

 Replaced the thermostat with a new 180 stat.

 

 Started the car and once warmed up the flow was decent across the top row, but I’ve got some serious cold spots in this radiator utilizing an infrared heat sensor.

 

 I’m in the process of pulling the radiator and taking to a local repair shop to ensure the rad is in tip top shape.

 

Making progress though

[Brtele]

Radiator guy called and said the radiator would not pass a pressure test and the tubes were brittle, splitting and leaking.  He stated the radiator needed a new core - dang it ,it's not really that inexpensive ($500-600). 

[jframe]

I would use the existing radiator if at all possible, and recore it. 

[Brtele]

17 minutes ago, jframe said:

I would use the existing radiator if at all possible, and recore it. 

That's exactly what they're doing.  Thanks,

[RivNut]

24 minutes ago, Brtele said:

That's exactly what they're doing.  Thanks,

As long as they’re recording your radiator have a 4 core installed.

[telriv]

2nd. the four core route or an aluminum replacement.

 

Tom T.

[Brtele]

Already turned him loose on the three core replacement. It shouldn’t be a problem as I don’t see myself driving the car when it’s over 95 degrees.  But I do appreciate the 4 core recommendation. Thanks 

[EmTee]

9 hours ago, Brtele said:

dang it ,it's not really that inexpensive ($500-600).

Be glad you don't own a '38 -- yours is less than half what I paid to re-core mine a couple of months ago...  Don't look back; you're doing the right thing and you'll later be glad that you did it! 

[XframeFX]

I've owned my Riv for so long I can't remember what I did to it early on. Something about temporarily installing a used radiator that was incorrect? An Oldsmobile Rad?

So the outlet on the bottom tank is hard against the reaction rod mount. I wrapped the hose with thick rubber media and tye-wraps to protect it. Again, a temporary measure.

Keep forgetting to check what other 1st Gen Rivs have for a bottom radiator outlet or search for images online. Shop Manual has no cooling system section.

What does the engine side of the bottom tank look like?

[Brtele]

7 hours ago, XframeFX said:

I've owned my Riv for so long I can't remember what I did to it early on. Something about temporarily installing a used radiator that was incorrect? An Oldsmobile Rad?

So the outlet on the bottom tank is hard against the reaction rod mount. I wrapped the hose with thick rubber media and tye-wraps to protect it. Again, a temporary measure.

Keep forgetting to check what other 1st Gen Rivs have for a bottom radiator outlet or search for images online. Shop Manual has no cooling system section.

What does the engine side of the bottom tank look like?

These are the only radiator pics I have until I get my radiator back from the shop.

[Brtele]

Got the recored (3-core) radiator ($640) installed last night and everything hooked back up.

 

 Prior to install, I ran a wire wheel over there the entire support area and then coated with a rust inhibitor and a couple top coats of duplicolor de1635.

 

 Filled it back up and waited for the stat to open - once it did I had great flow across the top row!  Still don’t have heat inside the car, but I’m putting that on the back burner for the moment.

 

 Drove the car with a heavier pedal for about 20 minutes and it never illuminated the hot lamp, carb never boiled over.  I’m still looking to install a true water temp gauge so I can properly monitor situations.

 

 Thanks again for all the help.

[kegart]

If you do install a water temperature gauge, keep in mind the hot light doesn't come on until 248 degrees.

 

Kevin 

 

 

 

[EmTee]

Pretty radiator! 

 

23 hours ago, Brtele said:

Still don’t have heat inside the car, but I’m putting that on the back burner for the moment.

My guess is that the heater core is stuffed with the same crap that plugged your old radiator core.  Rather than risk polluting your new radiator, I'd suggest bypassing the heater core (since it doesn't work anyway) until you're able to replace (or re-core) it...

[tenugent]

Put a screen of some sort on top radiator hose to radiator to catch anything that might have already got in system.It will problobly weep little coolant but don't worry about it.

[telriv]

Reverse flush the heater core. Then take an old nylon stocking/panty hose & install in the upper radiator neck, like a V-shape to act as a filter.

Low cost & very effective.

 

Tom T.

[RivNut]

Reverse the connection to the heater core and try to flush the gunk out the direction it came in.  Do it at the front of the hoses rather than trying to disconnect at the heater core, this will also flush those directional hoses. You might look for something an Aussie friend sent to me when I looked at a 65 for him.  A device that is inserted into the upper radiator hose (yes you have to cut it into two halves) it has strainer in it that can be removed regularly to clean the strainer.  Looks like another radiator cap in the middle of the upper hose.

Edited April 14, 2022 by RivNut (see edit history)

[Craig Balzer]

7 hours ago, tenugent said:

Put a screen of some sort on top radiator hose to radiator to catch anything that might have already got in system

I've never tried these but they may help.

https://ganofilters.com/

[RivNut]

1 hour ago, Craig Balzer said:

I've never tried these but they may help.

https://ganofilters.com/

those should work as well, but you have to loosen your hose connections each time you want to clean it. 

[XframeFX]

9 hours ago, telriv said:

Reverse flush the heater core.

I don't know if anyone remembers the Prestone 3-piece reverse flush kit. Most cars had them in the 60s and 70s.

Found these in my odds n sods. If I looked deeper, I might find the missing 3rd piece, a 5/8" Tee.

The adapter is for hooking up a garden hose and the deflector snaps in place of the rad cap.

No overheating probs up in Canada.

[Brtele]

I got an opportunity to troubleshoot the heater situation this weekend - I'm not getting vacuum to the heater valve when I have the car switch to heating mode and the fan in the high position.  Now I get to start tracing vacuum leaks - one of my favorite pastimes.

 

In other good news, the car is running great and I took it for a 30 minute road trip - no hot lamps, ran perfectly.