Lahti35 Posted September 30, 2022 Author Share Posted September 30, 2022 I got the call! I also did some digging around the exhaust system and the taillight wiring harness. The muffler is the incorrect size at 5" in diameter where the original muffler strap was clearly made for a 6" diameter unit. The other issue is that the inlet is 2 1/4" ID and the pipe itself is 2" OD. Looks like some muffler shop jammed some spacers in there to make up the difference and called it good... except it has a fairly good leak going at the bottom judging by the soot. I've placed an order with Waldron Exhaust for a new correct muffler, 10-12 weeks to ship... ouch! These lead times are killing me but that's the game these days more often than not it seems. I pulled out 25' of nasty taillight wiring last night. Gross stuff, unfortunately I have not been able to source any new armored 14ga wire. Brillman, YnZ, and Rhode Island are out of stock or no longer produce it. I haven't given up yet but I may have to use regular wire and loom instead... I'm pulling the taillight assembly and doing a resto on it. It's poorly painted, bent, and the connectors are corroded badly. It's just poorly done and at this point it's easier to just take it down and start over. I'll be converting the bottom light to a dual filament bulb. The bottom lamp will be on normally, then both top and bottom will light with the brake. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 (edited) Lahti: Great video on how the throwout bearing carrier operates. Beautiful workmanship by the shop. The muffler I got for my 1925 Standard was from the Vintage Dodge Brothers supplier. The O.D. and length was the correct size. I know I had to make a reducer adapter (2" to 1 3/4") for the input and have it welded to match what was on my car. Unfortunately the new muffler leaks a bit on the outer O.D. rolled seam. On some of the armored cables on my car I had to recycle since none were avaiable for outright sale at the time. Particuarly the end connectors for the taillight and such. A lot of wire wheel work and some aluminum paint but things have held up well. Jumble of newer wires. Most of the armored cable sheathing was missing from my car when I got it in 2011. Also missing retaining clips. I had to fabricate them. The smaller cables are new the heavier one going down to the starter/generator was cleaned and painted since it already had the ferruls soldered on. Edited September 30, 2022 by dibarlaw spelling (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 (edited) Incorrect exhaust is a common problem, and it’s almost always undersized. This effects performance much more than most people realize. If the system is “good” and not leaking most won’t throw down to replace it. That’s a mistake. Also, most mufflers today have more restrictions than in the 20’s & 30’s. Making the car breath better gives you the last ten or fifteen percent of the power band that’s often missing……and desperately needed. Read your sales literature…….most cars had “tuned exhaust” and yes, it really does make a difference. Also, exhaust should be mandrel bent so as not to crush the pipe and cause further restrictions. Edited September 30, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted September 30, 2022 Author Share Posted September 30, 2022 1 hour ago, dibarlaw said: Lahti: Great video on how the throwout bearing carrier operates. Beautiful workmanship by the shop. Thanks Larry, The shop really is a treasure. They aren't afraid to work on oddball stuff and they do good work. I hope they stay around for a long while! Nice job on your wiring and muffler. You engine compartment looks sharp, I can tell a bunch of work went into it. I must have spent a few hours looking online for a correct muffler for the Nash with no luck. Everything would have had to have been modified in some way to make it work. I knew of Waldron but I did not know they made custom mufflers. For a reasonable price I'm able to get one scratch built exactly as I need, I just have to wait until December😛. I wish I could use my old wiring but it's corroded inside the insulation badly. Coupled with the number of splices it's sustained It's just itching to "let out the smoke" and we all know what happens then! Luckily all my clips are still in place and in good shape so there's a win. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 2, 2022 Author Share Posted October 2, 2022 I set to work this AM finishing off the work on the throw out carrier. These grooves were ground in originally by hand by the looks of it. I laid some tape around the circumference as a stop point and marker'd the lines to follow using the original as a guide. I was nervous! It went well though, they turned out good. Once the oil groves were were done I put the bearing in place and screwed on the retainer nut to clock the hole for drilling in the carrier. I started with a drill bit that just fit the hole in the retaining nut and made a dimple in the carrier threads to act as a "center punch". Once I had that I used a smaller bit the size of the retaining ring to drill the hole. Fit like a glove. I also sanded the retaining nut flat by hand to remove some scoring and even out the face for maximum effect. Once the carrier was complete after some final hand finishing I installed and oiled the bearings, then assembled it. Cleaning and painting the transmission case also got done today. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 3, 2022 Author Share Posted October 3, 2022 I pulled the input shaft bushing out of the flywheel in preparation for sizing a new one. I had watched a few videos about using a bolt/nut/screwdriver method but I couldn't get it to work. Then I got smart and made myself a toothed slide hammer to grab the inside lip and tap it out, that failed also. "Sometimes the old ways are best" so I just did the grease method and got it. Had to use a big hammer though, that sucker was in there good! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 I use a tap just big enough to cut threads and it just screws out. Mike 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 5, 2022 Author Share Posted October 5, 2022 (edited) Weather is nice here for a few days so I decided to back the Nash out and degrease the engine. The back and front of the engine were pretty gunky from the old leaking valve cover gasket, nearly black with grime. I used some straight dish soap on a wet toothbrush and rubbed it into the casting then let it sit for 10 minutes. After sitting I agitated it again and let it sit longer after which it started coming off well. There are still some nooks and crannies to get but it's 90% there. A clean engine is a happy engine! Edited October 5, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted October 6, 2022 Share Posted October 6, 2022 That looks great. Old Car Festival is a pretty wonderful goal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 8, 2022 Author Share Posted October 8, 2022 I got my replacement drain cocks and put them on today. A small thing but I hate fighting old drain cocks. The rearmost one held coolant ok but was stiff. The front one on the underside of the water pump worked to drain coolant but would not stop leaking after turning the valve back. One shouldn't have to fight these things for the nominal cost of new ones. I also won the war on filling the rear end with 600W tonight. I don't have a pump so I just rigged up this funnel and filled it over and over while I was out in the garage working on stuff. It took nearly 4 quarts poured in over two weeks, LOL. I may have been able to find a harder way to do it but I didn't have my thinking cap on tight. I was thrilled to see it drip out the filler hole. I promptly screwed in the filler plug, packed up my sub chassis workstation and scrammed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 8, 2022 Author Share Posted October 8, 2022 I got done with my chores early and the wife was still at an appointment so I set about lubing the generator after I noticed it squeak when rotating the fan a few days ago. It was nice of NASH to put it front and center for easy access. Two bolts and a nut holding the wire and it's off. I should back up a bit and say I oiled the oiling points and rotated it a bunch but the squeak did not go away. I figured I better take a peak inside and see if the oil was getting to the bearings. The rear bearing was ok, getting all the oil no problem, the felt was wet and weeping. The front was another story... No oil was making it to the bearing. I carefully pulled the cover and brush plate without disturbing their settings. The bearing was a bit gritty so I pressed it out of the housing and gave it a good cleaning along with it's felt seals. Turned out to be a good bearing, win! I pressed it back in and replaced the felt seals and backing washer, also giving it a few squirts of oil to soak the felts. MADE IN USA, I love it when things have that stamped on them. So the way the oiling for the front bearing works is you add some to the spring loaded ball filler at the front. From there it goes down a short hole in the casting and then drips down a trough into a gallery and finally onto a felt seal behind the front bearing felt seal and into the bearing. The back of the brush plate and the inside of the front cover sandwich together to create the pathway. You can see a faint outline on the back of the points plate where they meet up. I made sure to blow out the holes and clean the trough/gallery also. Reassembly started with replacing the original felt (still in good shape) on the back of the brush plate. I pre-oiled it as before with the other bearing felts. Once the points plate was screwed back into the inside of the cover it was a simple matter of fitting the cover itself. Pulling the brushes aside to get it to slide down over commutator went well without issue. I then cleaned the long screws and hardware that holds the body together and installed them. Just about then the dinner bell rang. It's no figure of speech, I installed a large schoolhouse bell just outside the back door so the wife can alert me to chow when she makes dinner. Now I really had a quandary, go eat or face the woman when I wasn't inside in 5 minutes. I threw caution into the wind and installed the generator like I was on a mission. Luckily Charles Nash knew I would be in a time crunch and made generator installation a breeze, thanks Charley! Back in went the two bolts and the nut for the wire, done! ... And the squeak was still there, $*@%! It must be a brush on the commutator because it's coming from the front where they are and I know the bearing is oiled and will get oil from now on. Actually everything inside the generator looks pretty good. No flaking insulation, no rust, working brush holders/springs. At some point I'll take the armature out and chuck it in my lathe to shave the commutator as it is a bit groovy. I'll keep an eye out for a set of brushes in the meantime. Then I hear it, the door slowly opens and my not so happy wife informs me she has started dinner without me. I make the necessary apologies and buy myself 10 more minutes to install the new fan belt. It was past time, what some people will do to save a buck! First new fan belt in decades, I'm too good to the old girl! Lights out, shut the door, and off to dinner! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 (edited) I'm prepping the radiator for shipment to a repair shop out of state. Our local shop isn't good with old stuff and we all know good radiator shops are getting tough to find. I had a long conversation with the shop doing the work mid week and feel it will be in good hands. The core has a crusty pinched and soldered tube on the right side interior and a damp spot under the tank on the upper left. One thing I wanted to address before I send it was the filler neck being bent forward. While it was on the car there was a distinct forward tilt to the motometer. I waited until I had it out to try anything, can't be too careful! What I found was that although the filler neck was still securely attached to the tank by solder and rivets the area around the neck was pulled up at the back. Someone must have dropped it or yanked on the cap hard enough to cock it badly. The tank looked to be in good condition so I tapped the area behind the filler neck flat again with slow light blows via a small hammer and block of wood. I got it straight easily, you can see from the red line where it was before the work and the green line after. I test fit the radiator back into the shell to make sure it would go in without bending it and had no issues. The filler neck hole in the shroud along with the fastener holes around the border now all fit and line up much better, good deal! That bent motometer was driving me nuts, it just looked horrible, can't wait to put it back on now. Edited October 13, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 I got my new brake light switch in from Germany today. The old unit is plastic crap and had been rigged poorly sometime in the past. I looked around for the right type of switch and found this one that makes contact when pulled. There are similar cheap Chinese switches on Epay but they must be a rip-off of this switch which is made of better materials and comes with a rubber cover. The cost over the Chinese one was just a few dollars, no brainer. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 I had planned to put the bulk of the transmission together this AM but revised my plans after thinking it through. I can't install the input shaft yet as I need to make the key for the throw out carrier, also I need to have it loose to check the clearance of the flywheel pilot bushing after it's pressed in. It really needs to be put into the transmission before the output shaft so trans assembly will have to wait... I did get the hand brake quadrant and the throw out rod/arms installed. The last of the bearings/gears were cleaned and oiled... Everything is set aside waiting for the throw out key and pilot bushing. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 (edited) I spent two hours finishing the brake equalizer, the last major assembly currently off the car. I had to pull it to remove the transmission so it gets the resto treatment too. When removing it I noticed one of the support arms was missing its cotter key, only a tensioner spring was keeping it in place. I cut down a large key I had on hand and made it work. The equalizer bar itself was caked with dirt/grease/oil so I went after it with a wire wheel and disassembled it down to its smaller parts. Once cleaned they were reassembled and ready for paint. The supports arms and hardware went into the sand blaster and were painted also. In other news I got a reply to my ad seeking a good water pump cover or complete assembly. The gentleman has had a '25 Advanced Six roadster for a few decades and has accumulated some parts including a complete water pump. He's sending me pictures in a day or two, hopefully it works out. I've also been looking at 3D printing and casting as an alternative should I need to go that route. Edited October 21, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 On 10/8/2022 at 8:18 PM, Lahti35 said: I'm prepping the radiator for shipment to a repair shop out of state. Our local shop isn't good with old stuff and we all know good radiator shops are getting tough to find. I had a long conversation with the shop doing the work mid week and feel it will be in good hands. The core has a crusty pinched and soldered tube on the right side interior and a damp spot under the tank on the upper left. One thing I wanted to address before I send it was the filler neck being bent forward. While it was on the car there was a distinct forward tilt to the motometer. I waited until I had it out to try anything, can't be too careful! What I found was that although the filler neck was still securely attached to the tank by solder and rivets the are around the neck was pulled up at the back. Someone must have dropped it or yanked on the cap hard enough to cock it badly. The tank looked to be in good condition so I tapped the area behind the filler neck flat again with slow light blows via a small hammer and block of wood. I got it straight easily, you can see from the red line where it was before the work and the green line after. I test fit the radiator back into the shell to make sure it would go in without bending it and had no issues. The filler neck hole in the shroud along with the fastener holes around the border now all fit and line up much better, good deal! That bent motometer was driving me nuts, it just looked horrible, can't wait to put it back on now. As I had mentioned before my 1925 Buick Master was a well cobbled and mangled mess. The hood did not fit because the radiator shroud to cowl hood hinge was bent down. I had to make a bridge across the frame to jack the rod mounts up 3/4 of an inch.The original correct 1925 Harrison tanks were unuseable since the cast iron inlet deflector was rusted away as was the bottom tank outlet cast pieces as well as several major cracks that had soldered patches. I opted to use a 1926 unit that still needed a recore but tanks were in better shape. The filler neck still needed to be pulled up to straighten that tank as I had already done with the 1925 tank. They had pounded in the bottom of the rusted shell and filled with braze so the shroud had extra holes because nothing fit. All better now. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 On 10/12/2022 at 10:46 AM, dibarlaw said: I had to make a bridge across the frame to jack the rod mounts up 3/4 of an inch.The original correct 1925 Harrison tanks were unuseable since the cast iron inlet deflector was rusted away as was the bottom tank outlet cast pieces as well as several major cracks that had soldered patches. Amazing how some parts last and others of the same vintage go to the grave much earlier... The outlets on my radiator are in exceptional condition, 6" down the hose to the block and it's rusted neck city, go figure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 16, 2022 Author Share Posted October 16, 2022 I spent the AM making a new key for the input shat with the precision ground stock I got this week. It's a 3/16 wide key, took me some time to make it. Test fit, grind, repeat etc... I hardened it when done. I had to do some minor hand work to get everything to slide freely and not bind, round some sharp corners and file the keyway in the carrier a tad. I had to backtrack a bit. Someone put a seal in the input shaft housing in the past to control oil, I can dig that, seemed like a good idea. I pulled it out when cleaning the bearing/clutch brake retainer and had planned on getting a new one but couldn't find one that size. The old one was still in good shape so I decided to return it to it's old location. Unfortunately I hadn't though about this when I riveted the clutch brake on that was now in the way. Long story short I had to take it all apart and put it back together... It happens. The carrier/input/clutch brake assembly is now complete and functioning as intended. I'm waiting on the flywheel pilot bearing to arrive this coming week. I ordered a custom sized unit as The OD was weird and the ID was too far out to ream. The bearing is an oilite type and there was concern about wiping the lubrication passages shut drilling a smaller ID bearing to within reaming range of the input shaft pilot nub. Hopefully I can press it in and it's good to go, I accounted for a few thousands compression of the bearing so everybody cross your fingers. The original pilot bearing was brass or bronze with some grooving in the ID. I presume to hold some grease as there is no way to oil it. It did score the tip of the input shaft some but that was cleaned up with the rest of the input shaft while it was at the machine shop. Once the pilot bushing is all sent the clutch and transmission can go back in. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 If the new one is oilite you can just soak it in oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 21 hours ago, Bloo said: If the new one is oilite you can just soak it in oil. The new one is oilite. It's supposed to be lubricated with 30w oil and good for 1000 hours of use. I've never lubricated one of these, do you just dunk it in oil for awhile? I read some stuff about people putting them in a vacuum or filling the ID with oil and squeezing it between your fingers until it leaks out the OD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 (edited) I don't know. They are porous, so soaking is better than nothing if you don't have a vacuum pump or whatever. I have also put them in hot oil on a hot plate out in the driveway. Probably a real bad idea to do that indoors. I am right now working on some Pontiac water pumps with porous bronze. GM weren't calling it oilite, but it pretty much is. They wanted their dealers to keep the bushings soaking in oil while on the shelf, as they might be not saturated when installed otherwise. You probably don't want grease, as that would just plug up the oilite. Maybe if the grease could be in a cavity and just slowly seep oil out into the bushing, that would probably be OK. If the original bushing was using grease, my guess is it was some kind of cast bearing bronze. It probably was something like that because 1925 is pretty early to be oilite. Edited October 17, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 17, 2022 Author Share Posted October 17, 2022 (edited) 12 hours ago, Bloo said: I don't know. They are porous, so soaking is better than nothing if you don't have a vacuum pump or whatever. I have also put them in hot oil on a hot plate out in the driveway. Probably a real bad idea to do that indoors. I am right now working on some Pontiac water pumps with porous bronze. GM weren't calling it oilite, but it pretty much is. They wanted their dealers to keep the bushings soaking in oil while on the shelf, as they might be not saturated when installed otherwise. You probably don't want grease, as that would just plug up the oilite. Maybe if the grease could be in a cavity and just slowly seep oil out into the bushing, that would probably be OK. If the original bushing was using grease, my guess is it was some kind of cast bearing bronze. It probably was something like that because 1925 is pretty early to be oilite. Interesting about the "soaking on the shelf" dealer storage... The original Nash bushing is just straight metal, definitely not oilite. It had pockets for grease but I know that's a no no with oilite as it will plug the pores and stop the oilite from doing it's thing. I may just set it in some oil for a day before install, couldn't hurt! Edited October 17, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted October 25, 2022 Author Share Posted October 25, 2022 I must say it has not been a great few weeks in the garage! I got my new oilite pilot bearing... Looks nice compared to the old one on the left, however it does not fit. Like a dummy I made a mistake measuring and I achieved a perfect sliding fit, not the interference fit I was aiming for. This was an expensive mistake on my part, without the compression from a slightly oversize OD the ID is also too large. Nothing to do but try again. On a happier note I finally got the Boyce face for my moto meter. If the audience recalls when I bought the moto meter it came with a Paige face. I spent some time searching for a NASH face and came close but no luck. I found one but it was the wrong size after I talked with the seller some, turns out they had listed the size wrong. Anyway I found a generic Boyce unit and ordered that, which the post office lost for a week. It finally arrived today and a few minutes work saw it put together and ready for service. I look forward to it sitting back on the radiator, straight and not bent forward. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63RedBrier Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 How did you harden the input shaft key? Can you harden it at home? Or, did a machine shop do it for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 3, 2022 Author Share Posted November 3, 2022 6 hours ago, 63RedBrier said: How did you harden the input shaft key? Can you harden it at home? Or, did a machine shop do it for you? I heated it with a torch until red/orange then submerged it in some old oil. I ran a file across it and it skated without cutting. Not real scientific but it worked! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 23, 2022 Author Share Posted November 23, 2022 (edited) Continuing the trend of lost packages UPS took 10 days to deliver my new pilot bushing. It went from Chicago to unknown parts for 3 days, ended up in Miami, then to Georgia and on to Michigan where it was supposed to go. McMaster always gets stuff to me in 24 hours, UPS goofed it all up! It installed perfectly... The fit is good on the transmission input shaft, I can now resume assembling the transmission. I was aiming for .0013" of clearance which is what was recommended for the size of the bushing. I spent some time after work fiddling with the clutch... I was not happy with the resistance I was getting while trying to actuate the pressure plate arms. One moved freely but the others were sticking. I soaked each joint in thinner for some time while moving them around and blowing them with compressed air a month ago. It made no difference so tonight I took the plunge and ground off the end of a retaining pin to see what the deal was. Turns out the two sticky ones had a burr around the pin hole in the inside of the arm, The material had migrated just enough to interfere with movement. I few lights hits with a file took down the burr and when I test fit it with the old pin it moved freely with no resistance. Lucky for me the pin is nothing more than some 3/8" rod with a flared end on one side and a hole on the other for flaring once installed. This should be fairly easy to replicate, they are not hardened. I even have some 3/8 rod in my stash... winner, winner, chicken dinner! Edited November 24, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 25, 2022 Author Share Posted November 25, 2022 I had a few hours before the turkey landed so I spent the AM making the pins for the clutch pressure plate arms. I had to make a tool with a lip on the inside so I could form the head on the pins and a tool set to flare the skirt of the pin out once installed to retain it. Once I had the recess cut into the ends of the pins I was able to seat them in the head forming tool, heat the end of the pin up and pound it down to flare and dome it. The tool had a set depth for repeat accuracy, worked great. On the other end was a small hole to allow me to insert a rod and pop out the pin after forming. Once formed, with a little clean up to smooth the head, the pins were ready to go. Perfect fit in the arms. Each arm has two pins, one that attaches it to the retaining plate and another that secures a small block with an angled face that contacts the pressure plate. The 2nd pin and corresponding small blocks were all moving feely and needed no repair. The plate was assembled and all the arms moved great except for one. It was still sticky so I had to pull the pin and file a bit to get it to do 100% travel but I got there in the end. Compared to the 30% of travel they were all doing prior to repair it's a night and day difference. I'll have to make a new pin tomorrow to replace the new one I removed but now that I have the tooling it won't take long. The goal is to have the clutch back in this weekend. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 25, 2022 Author Share Posted November 25, 2022 (edited) I worked on the clutch today and got it installed... After cleaning all the surfaces to super clean and dry I installed the friction disc and the 3 keepers. Next in was the pressure plate, it aligns on the 3 keepers and features 3 corresponding springs that act to push it away from the friction plate when the pressure plate releases. I assembled the cover plate, arms, and throw-out assembly on the bench. Now came the fun part. I had to compress the assembly, align the 3 arms in the keeper, and place some wedges between the cover and throwout bearing to hold it in a squashed state. Now I'll admit I was a little concerned about having to get this into the flywheel while under a fair amount of force. I had to kneel on it with all my weight plus the donuts I had for breakfast to get it compressed and the shims installed. I had a few thoughts, none of which were happy. I felt like I had a grenade held a few inches from my chest while I was cramped under the car with the assembly right in my face, I really just wanted to chuck it away or gets those bolts in before she popped! I was truly relieved when all the bolts were in, felt pretty good! Edited November 26, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 26, 2022 Share Posted November 26, 2022 (edited) I’m impressed with your attention to detail. Craftsmanship means checking everything, and not letting anything go as “good enough”. Like the pins on the clutch. Excellent job. You can work on my cars anytime. You get the very rarely given three thumbs up. 👍👍👍 Edited November 26, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 26, 2022 Author Share Posted November 26, 2022 2 hours ago, edinmass said: I’m impressed with your attention to detail. Craftsmanship means checking everything, and not letting anything go as “good enough”. Like the pins on the clutch. Excellent job. You can work on my cars anytime. You get the very rarely given three thumbs up. 👍👍👍 Thanks Ed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 26, 2022 Author Share Posted November 26, 2022 (edited) I used the transmission input shaft to line up everything when I installed the clutch, I've held off on assembling the transmission so I could use the input shaft because of that. Now that it's served it's purpose it was time to put it back. I installed the lower gears in the transmission some time back. The input shaft is held in by the bearing retainer/race holder. There is one shim up front, the majority are at the output shaft. It's been awhile since this was together so I had a few brain farts in the assembly order... Initially I just installed the retainer thinking I could slide the input shaft in from the back... ...Only to find out that won't work with the gear cluster installed in the lower half of the trans. Soooooo I had to pull the retainer and reinstall it with the input shaft in place. Once that was wrapped up it was time to install the ball bearings, plate and bushing that live inside the input shaft on the transmission side. I set the trans with the front pointing down so the thrust assembly stays put after installation. When I pulled the transmission apart I had 5 ball bearings fall out, I was able to find out where they went with some sleuthing through some Nash parts books (the other two are for the shifter detents). The small disc goes in first, followed by the 3 ball bearings, followed by the bronze bushing. The output shaft slides into the back of the input shaft and contains all this stuff. The output shaft along with the gears went in next after I lubed up the bushing and thrust assembly. I called it quits for the day after setting the rear bearing retainer in place. I'll install it for good in a day or two, I have to check endplay before it can be installed for good with sealant. I'm not going to install anything else on the transmission until it is installed in the car. I want it as light as possible when I try to maneuver it into position, the throwout carrier leaves no room for error. I will be interested to see what kind of leaks I have once this transmission is in operation. It leaked out of every seam/shaft/bolt hole originally so it can only get better. I've taken great care to seal everything that can be sealed, we'll see! Before I install the transmission I'm going to run the engine for a short stint to see if that repair I did on the camshaft cover behind the flywheel holds at 30psi. Now is the time, if I have to get back in there again I'd rather pull off a clutch instead of a clutch and a transmission. I probably should have done this before installing the clutch but I forgot about it until now. Edited November 26, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Jones Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 There was a fellow on another forum that started his Plymouth with just the clutch and it was a disaster, ruining the clutch. Be careful doing that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 3 hours ago, Walter Jones said: There was a fellow on another forum that started his Plymouth with just the clutch and it was a disaster, ruining the clutch. Be careful doing that. There must be a bunch more to that story, If things are put together properly the clutch is in no danger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Jones Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 I can't find the original post but here is a reference to it. Actually I may disappoint you here. I have used a spring in the past only to find it missing when in the clutch area again. After my clutch explosion caused by centrifugal force moving the clutch arms outward without a throw out bearing to stop them, I decided that I would ensure and equal adjustment of the arms and forget the spring. I am not recommending anything just stating what I did and will live with the consequences. Yes the spring helps move the bearing away from the arms but I think the arms will find the bearing anyway. My 2.5 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 Post a few photos of the water pump assembled and disassembled. It’s unlikely 3D printing will be an option. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 20 hours ago, Walter Jones said: I can't find the original post but here is a reference to it. Actually I may disappoint you here. I have used a spring in the past only to find it missing when in the clutch area again. After my clutch explosion caused by centrifugal force moving the clutch arms outward without a throw out bearing to stop them, I decided that I would ensure and equal adjustment of the arms and forget the spring. I am not recommending anything just stating what I did and will live with the consequences. Yes the spring helps move the bearing away from the arms but I think the arms will find the bearing anyway. My 2.5 cents. Interesting... I think with my type of clutch I would be ok. The throw out assembly is part of the clutch, I only have one big spring providing tension and it's captured on both ends. The clutch arms are locked to the throw out bearing in a retaining ring that would have to be pulled backward to release tension on the clutch. In it's resting state there is tension on everything keeping everything locked in place. I will say I don't take it lightly, don't need anything exploding on me! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 12 hours ago, edinmass said: Post a few photos of the water pump assembled and disassembled. It’s unlikely 3D printing will be an option. It's still on the car, I haven't pulled it yet... I do have this picture from the parts book that shows a cross section of the unit though. There is a bushing in there for the snout of the impeller shaft located in a casting extension inside the center of the cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 (edited) I spent an hour this AM freeing the drain plug from the bottom radiator outlet, it was stuck in there good. The casting is brass and I had to punch through crusty scab of deposits once the plug was out. I'll get a new plug, the old one is steel and the new one will be 3/8" bronze. I chased the threads with a tap to remove the crusty junk. I also got a crate started for shipping this to a specialist to give it a once over and check out those two spots that were damp. Edited November 28, 2022 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 (edited) The two spots that were damp are your tears dripping on the core when you find out the replacement cost. That pump will be very difficult to make. It won’t 3D print. Find a new one. It may be possible to save what you have. Don’t let a hack welder get his hands on it. Edited November 28, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Jones Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 1 hour ago, Lahti35 said: Interesting... I think with my type of clutch I would be ok. The throw out assembly is part of the clutch, I only have one big spring providing tension and it's captured on both ends. The clutch arms are locked to the throw out bearing in a retaining ring that would have to be pulled backward to release tension on the clutch. In it's resting state there is tension on everything keeping everything locked in place. I will say I don't take it lightly, don't need anything exploding on me! The spring he is talking about is a spring that hooks in a little tab in the throwout bearing on one end and to the back of the bellhousing on the other. I've never seen another clutch with one. The one on our car had pulled loose and was just hanging. The clutch in the car he has is nothing like yours or any other clutch I have worked on. Each finger is adjustable and that's how you adjust the free travel not by the linkage. Its weighted but I thought the weights made it engage harder not pull away like he describes. Our clutch was like his and in bad shape. I sent it to Kentucky Clutch and they sent me back one that is more like a regular Long style. It fits and works so that's what we have now. You are probably fine to start yours since its entirely different or at least I hope so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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