EmTee Posted September 14, 2022 Author Share Posted September 14, 2022 4 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said: Looks like we'll both be doing a torque ball seal this winter. You first! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 5, 2022 Author Share Posted October 5, 2022 On 9/13/2022 at 8:52 PM, EmTee said: So, I removed the cap and wires to allow removal of the cover. With the cover off, I could see exactly where the gasket had sagged. The rest of the perimeter looked OK and the gasket was still OK. It was a composition gasket (like a FelPro) rather than cork. Since I couldn't locate a new gasket locally I decided to clean-up the old one. I used some HighTack to stick the gasket to the cover and gave it time to set up while I cleaned-up the flange on the block. I then smeared some #2 Permatex on the block side of the gasket and reinstalled the cover. I checked the lower perimeter of the cover with my dental mirror and confirmed the gasket was in place. I could see the gasket in place along the top edge, so I'm hopeful that this will take care of the largest remaining motor oil leak. I snugged the cover bolts and will let it stand over night before I give the bolts a final check before running the engine. I haven't posted an update to the pushrod cover saga since I was away on the 76th Revival Glidden Tour last week and was busy with last-minute car preparation right before leaving. My attempt to 'fix' (or at least stabilize) the pushrod cover oil leak as described previously failed miserably. As I said before, the gasket appeared to be a felt/composite type, rather than cork and it was saturated with oil and no amount of sealer on the flanges stopped oil from apparently wicking right through it... I ordered a new gasket from CARS which arrived a couple of days before my scheduled departure. The new gasket is cork (Best Gasket Co.) and I decided to use a thin bead of Permatex gasket maker (which I bought as 'Plan B' if the gasket didn't arrive in time) to stick it to the cover flange before installing the cover on the engine. I didn't want the gasket to slip out of place during installation, since the design of the cover stamping doesn't really offer any support for the gasket. In fact, the cover is designed so that the gasket doesn't sit flat on a flange, but straddles the flange and a crimped bead that I guess is supposed to pinch the gasket against the flat mating surface on the engine block. I decided to run a thin bead of the gasket maker in that valley (or gap) and then aligned the gasket on a piece of wood to make sure that it was straight and square. I then set the cover in place and screwed it to the board to clamp it while I let the adhesive set overnight. The next morning I ran a second thin bead on the gasket surface that mates with the block and installed the cover. The other thing I noticed was that there was oil leaking from under the bolt heads that hold the cover to the engine. There were copper washers between the bolt heads and the cover, but they were still fairly hard and I can see how they would leak unless the cover surface is perfectly flat (which it isn't and won't be when tightened). So, I replaced the copper washers with 5/16" neoprene washers backed by larger steel flat washers. I tightened the cover in stages and settled on a final torque of 75 in-lbs. I re-torqued the cover the next day to allow for gasket 'settling'. The good news is that the cover leak now seems to have been resolved once-and-for-all. The cover area remained dry after driving 1,100+ miles on the tour last week. Aside from some dribbling at the dipstick hole, the right side oil pan flange remained dry. The rubber washers squished out from behind the flat washers, but the outside of the cover is dry, so I'm calling this job done... 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 5, 2022 Author Share Posted October 5, 2022 76th Revival AAA Glidden Tour My wife and I left the house on Saturday morning (9/24) headed for Princeton, NJ in the '38 Century. The route I chose took us south on US and NYS highways (no Interstates). We passed through Norwich and Sidney on the way to Deposit, where we picked-up NY-17E to Monticello. From there we passed through Milford, PA before crossing into NJ and following RT 206S to Princeton. We stopped for lunch in Monticello and checked-in at the hotel around 4 o'clock. I had figured about 6 hours driving time (~260 miles), but with lunch and some NJ traffic, total time was about 7.5 hours. On Sunday (9/25) we checked in for the tour at the host hotel before heading over to the opening banquet at the Woods Edge Farm in Stockton, NJ. Following the opening BBQ lunch, we headed over to see the Strober Collection. Some of his cars were moved out of the garage and parked outside. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 5, 2022 Author Share Posted October 5, 2022 Here's a closer look at the '36 Buick... My '38 among other tour cars... It sprinkled rain on and off during the afternoon, but aside from one brief shower, it wasn't enough to spoil the day. As it turned-out, this would be the only rain that we'd experience all week - the tour weather was perfect! 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 6, 2022 Author Share Posted October 6, 2022 On Tuesday (9/27) the tour included Van Sant Historic Airfield in Erwinna, PA. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 On Wednesday (9/28) the tour took us to Sandy Hook. We had lunch and visited the lighthouse and the beach. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) On Thursday (9/29) we visited the Roebling Museum and had lunch on the deck of the USS New Jersey (BB 62). As luck would have it, my '38 Century was book-ended by a '37 Special Convertible and '39 Roadmaster at the Roebling Museum, so I had to take that picture! Edited October 10, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) On Friday (9/30) we had coffee at the NJ National Guard Museum in Lawrenceville and toured the Princeton Battlefield. My wife/navigator and I were starting to get the hang of this touring thing, as we went from getting lost a couple times on Sunday to being the first to arrive at the National Guard museum. Unfortunately, there was no prize for being first; but at least we didn't have to wait in line for coffee! Edited October 10, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) While not part of the tour, my navigator wanted to stop and see President Grover Cleveland's house... Edited October 10, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) Here are some of the tour cars that got my attention (in no particular order)... I spotted this '40 LaSalle coupe at the BBQ on Sunday and couldn't stop admiring it all week! 1911 Cadillac and 1907 Ford Model K. It was the Cadillac's first Glidden, whereas the Ford had apparently been on at least two previous tours dating back to the early 50's. Both cars were in amazing condition, but I never knew Ford made a car like this one - it's a big car! A DeSoto Airflow Edited October 10, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) A '31 Packard next to my favorite LaSalle... Doug Seybold's '40 Century Phaeton next to Ashby Armistead's '37 Roadmaster Town Car. 1913 Pierce Arrow that has been all over the country touring since March! 1929 Marmon A closer look at that '31 Oakland V8... 1936 Dodge Pickup 1929 Pierce Arrow 133 Sport Touring Edited October 10, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) Stephens Six One of two Model Ts and a few of the many Model As on the tour... '37 Packard 12 Coupe 1939 LaSalle sedan 1931 Auburn Cabriolet Edited October 10, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Looks like a great tour. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 It was and as I said before, the weather was perfect from Monday through Friday. There were several stops that wouldn't have been as much fun in the rain... Anyone who has the chance to participate in a tour in their area should consider it. See the VMCCA website (https://www.vmcca.org/tours/) or the AACA forum's tour topic for more info (https://forums.aaca.org/forum/105-aaca-shows-and-tours/). 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted October 12, 2022 Share Posted October 12, 2022 I always wanted to do that tour, I actually saw that 37 roadmaster town car on the NJ turnpike what a beautiful and incredible car. Always a beautiful Buick from Doug seybolds collection. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 21, 2022 Author Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) To wrap-up the Glidden Tour topic, I discovered during the rain on Sunday that the windshield leaks and the wipers don't wipe... First, I looked closely at the windshield, which consists of new glass installed in new gaskets and honestly couldn't see any obvious issue. There was a small gap between the gasket and the body at the center of the windshield above the center divider. I decided to run a thin bead of clear silicone along the interface where the glass meets the rubber along the upper edge and down the A-pillars. I stuck the tip of the caulking tube into the rubber channel and ran from the center down each A-Pillar and smoothed the gasket after I finished. I added more to fill the small void above the divider channel. I then decided to remove the center divider and check the installation after reading in the shop manual that it required sealer. Removing it revealed no sealer and there were large voids in the rubber channel at the top and bottom of the divider where the two pieces of glass end. I filled those voids with silicone and then ran a thin bead along the edge of the divider where it meets the glass. I then reinstalled it and tightened the screws. It has now set for more than 24 hours, so I will get the garden hose out this weekend and see whether or not the leak is fixed. Next, I removed and disassembled the wiper motor. It was pretty clean inside, but the paddle gasket and park seal were pretty dry. I soaked the leather seals in ATF and dressed the park seal with some fine sandpaper before oiling it. Inspecting the 'tub' that the paddle sweeps in I noticed a small bump in the casting that seems to explain why the wipers stalled where they did and wouldn't move any further. It seems that this defect must have been there from the beginning; if not, then there must have been a casting impurity that caused internal swelling at that spot. In any case, I sanded the bump away until the area was flat and smooth. I cleaned and reassembled the motor. I then connected my hand vacuum pump and verified smooth operation. It cycled back-and-forth with an audible 'click' at the end of each stroke. I then turned the valve off and made sure the motor went to the 'park' position. I reinstalled the wiper motor and will test it on the car when i do my windshield leak test... The items above aside, the car performed well. I had to top-off the transmission mid-week due to the torque ball leak, but that was expected. The only mechanical glitch was a 'no-start' following the driver's meeting on Tuesday. I drove from our hotel to the main hotel for the driver's meeting, however, after the meeting I hit the starter button and -- nothing... No click, no groan, no nothing. I suspected a relay, but couldn't find my points file (which I discovered later I had failed to pack). Fortunately, I got Ashby Armistead's attention and he stopped by with his contact file. I cleaned the contacts on the starter relay and the car started right up! The rest of the tour went without a hitch and the car ran well and did everything asked of it. I didn't keep close track of the gas mileage, but I estimate about 11 ~12 mpg overall. The total distance traveled for the week (including to and from NJ) was just over 1,100 miles. The pushrod cover stayed dry, but a couple of other small leaks appeared that I think I have now addressed. I also discovered a small fuel leak at the fuel pump that I have since fixed. That should help my gas mileage a bit... My plan for the winter is to replace the torque ball seal and king pin bushings. With that, the car should be ready for the 2023 touring season. Edited October 21, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share Posted October 23, 2022 On 10/20/2022 at 8:37 PM, EmTee said: I then turned the valve off and made sure the motor went to the 'park' position. I reinstalled the wiper motor and will test it on the car when i do my windshield leak test... Well, I'm batting .500 on these repairs. I sprayed the windshield directly pretty heavily 3x with my garden hose, checking inside after each round. I saw no water inside, so I believe the windshield leak is fixed. I still think the center divider was the root cause. The wiper motor repair wasn't as successful. They would wipe if I gave the blades a nudge to get started, but they wouldn't sweep completely and return without another nudge. I will need to find a rebuild (seal) kit or figure out how to create new seals and do a proper rebuild. More to come on this... 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Do you have the January/February 2022 issue of the Torque Tube II? It has an article on rebuilding a 1938 wiper motor. If you don't have it, I will be happy to send it to you. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 51 minutes ago, MCHinson said: Do you have the January/February 2022 issue of the Torque Tube II? Thanks, I thought there was a recent article on that but I couldn't remember what issue it was. I'm going to re-read it now... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanZverina Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 Thanks for all the wonderful pix, EmTee! As a former downstate New York resident (lived there for the first 34 years of my life) and now with a daughter living in central NJ where we get to visit, it's truly heart-warming to see such a nice collection of older Buicks and other models, as well as the level of enthusiasm to keep on driving them! Well done! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 25, 2022 Author Share Posted October 25, 2022 14 minutes ago, JanZverina said: ...as well as the level of enthusiasm to keep on driving them! I bought this car with the intention of driving it! My goal is to participate in at least one (and maybe two) organized tours each year. Preparing for the Glidden involved several day trips through the summer which were good shakedown runs and a lot of fun too. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machine Gun Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 10 hours ago, EmTee said: I bought this car with the intention of driving it! My goal is to participate in at least one (and maybe two) organized tours each year. That's the spirit! I've had my Skylark for eight years now, and local cruise nights and ice cream runs got old very quickly. I've literally been all over the country with it, and I plan to take it on more trips. If/when the day comes when I can't do that any more I'll probably sell it. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 27, 2022 Author Share Posted October 27, 2022 (edited) I removed the wiper motor (again) yesterday. I then disassembled it, including the reversing cam/valve control. Whereas last time I removed one casting 'bump' in the motor chamber, then cleaned and lubricated it, this time I'm disassembling the paddle to replace the edge seals. I also noticed a tear in the 'park' seal that I didn't notice last time. That probably explains the 'hiss' I could hear even when the control was turned off. I originally assumed the paddle seal was made of leather, which was why I soaked it in ATF to soften it last time. After disassembly, however, I learned that it isn't a single seal, but rather two seals back-to-back, sandwiched between stainless steel backers. The center cavity between the two inner steel supports contained some old, dry grease. Close inspection of the seal material clearly showed a 'weave' (like cloth) so they aren't leather after all. It appears to be some sort of Bakelite or plastic, as it seemed to react with Acetone when I attempted to clean-off the grease. Looking on Ebay I found a kit advertised that contained cork replacements. So, now I'm considering what material to use to fabricate replacements. NAPA has a 1/16" thick cork sheet that might work. I also have a sheet of fiber gasket material that I'm considering for use. I first need to make a pattern to use for cutting the material. I may try zooming the picture above using the old seals as a guide for the proper dimensions. Based on a tip from @DonMicheletti I inspected the vacuum 'tub' casting for dimensional distortion. Last time I sanded out a pea-sized bump in the circumferential portion that seemed to coincide with where the motor was stalling. This time I used a straight edge to check the walls of the chamber for flatness. The side where the wiper arms attach to the bell crank looked pretty good. The other side, opposite the chamber that contains the reversing valve/cam showed noticeable gaps (i.e., wall isn't flat). I was able to easily slide a 0.013" feeler gauge under the straight edge. The area around the paddle shaft support appears to be 'sucked-in', causing the gap. So, I decided to try to remove material from the high area around the shaft support using a flat file. The picture below shows the high area following an initial pass with the file... So, I worked the distorted area with the file for awhile, checking progress along the way. After about 15 minutes of careful filing the side looked much flatter. I think it's close enough now that with new paddle seals it should be able to function without excessive leaking. The next task is determining what to use for the paddle seal material and then fabricating the new seals before reassembling the paddle. I'll post an update once that's been done... Edited October 27, 2022 by EmTee typos (see edit history) 6 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted October 27, 2022 Share Posted October 27, 2022 Great work. I found about .015"distortion too. Anxious to see how it works out. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted October 27, 2022 Share Posted October 27, 2022 3 hours ago, EmTee said: The next task is determining what to use for the paddle seal material Whatever you use has to be semi flexible and I would want it oil resistant. If it were me, I would try one of the two below. The first one looks like it will take a while to get. The second one is just leather gasket material. I suggest this because of how well our leather gaskets hold up in the power brake unit. I'm not sure if I would trust cork but, who knows, it may work great. These are just suggestions and you probably know more than me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255446510920?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/31946601 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 27, 2022 Author Share Posted October 27, 2022 Thanks for the suggestions, @usnavystgc. The cork material looks like it would be worth a try based on the kit that I pictured above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted October 27, 2022 Share Posted October 27, 2022 Keep us informed because I'll be doing this as well I'm sure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 27, 2022 Author Share Posted October 27, 2022 I looked at the sheet of fiber gasket material that I have. It also appears to be 1/32" thick and looks promising. I cut a swatch and have it soaking in ATF overnight to see what happens. If it is pliable enough I may give this a try first and see how it goes. If necessary I'll try the cork/neoprene material next... 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 Wiper motor BLUF: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAACIilxnj4 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 (edited) I finally got back to the wiper motor project the other day. Last time I disassembled the motor, inspected the pieces and used my file to flatten the side of the vacuum chamber adjacent to the reversing valve that had a depression of about 0.013”. The next thing to do was figure out how to remake the ‘paddle’ seals, which were very brittle and therefore, unable to maintain contact with the vacuum chamber wall as the paddle sweeps back and forth. The last time I assembled the motor it appeared to work on the bench, however, once on the car the motor proved too weak to drag the wiper blade across the glass (even when wet). This time I focused on the paddle assembly that includes the shaft and bellcrank that drives the wiper mechanism. The paddle assembly also includes the ‘park seal’ that is responsible for sealing vacuum source when the motor is turned off. The first time I tried it in the car there was an audible ‘hiss’ from the motor when off. When I inspected the seal this time I saw a small tear in the seal, which, like the paddle seal, has hardened with age. Upon close inspection, the original seal material showed a cloth-like weave pattern. One rebuild kit I saw on Ebay included replacement seals that appeared to be made from a cork/rubber sheet material. The originals appeared to be about 1/32” thick. Before buying anything, I decided to look at the possibility of using some rubber/fiber sheet material I already had on-hand. It was the right thickness and seemed to be flexible enough to maintain a tight seal as the paddle moves. I’ve had the gasket material for a while, but I know I bought it at NAPA. I’m pretty sure it is the material listed on their website below: The old seals wrapped around the inner paddle support from each side toward the center of the assembly. The paddle assembly is a ‘sandwich’ of left and right inner paddle supports, paddle seals and similar left and right outer paddle supports. The entire assembly is riveted to the motor shaft at the top and a second rivet at the bottom also attaches the park seal. In order to form the flat gasket material so that it would wrap around the edge of the paddle like the original seals, I decided to make a press form from some scrap wood. I cut a piece of gasket material roughly to size and then fitted it into the gasket form that I carved out of the wood. I used a small block of wood to back-up the inner paddle and then chucked the whole thing in my bench vice and left it overnight. When I removed the gasket from the form it had successfully taken the necessary shape. I then carefully trimmed the excess gasket material to yield the first of two replacement seals. I followed the same process to fabricate the second seal, although it turned out that a couple of hours in the vice was sufficient to form the gasket to the required shape. I then decided to reassemble the paddle using a pair of #6-32 SS screws and nuts, rather than rivets. I couldn’t find the right rivets locally and I thought that disassembly would be easier with the screws in the event that my choice of paddle seals material didn’t work-out. I did, however, lightly peen the end of the screw just to keep it from working loose during operation. The screws worked fine with two caveats: (1) the head of the screw holding the park seal needed to be ground-down a little bit to allow the seal to hit the valve seat and (2) the holes had to be enlarged slightly to accommodate the #6 screw. There is a ‘stop’ in the center of the seat that would normally contact the rivet head, so the screw head was too thick to work as-is. I figured it was better to shave the screwhead than remove material from the stop in the seat casting. Before assembling the paddle ‘sandwich’ I filled the center void with common lithium chassis grease to replace the old, dry grease residue I found during disassembly. I also smeared a thin layer of grease around the perimeter of the paddle seal. Lastly, before the final reassembly, I smeared the inside of the paddle vacuum chamber (top, bottom and sides) with a thin coating of the same chassis grease I used in the center of the paddle. Inserting the paddle into the housing required care, as the new seals were tight and the edge of the casting is sharp. I had to compress the seal as I pushed the paddle into the ‘tub’ to avoid having the sharp upper edge of the casting shave material from the seals. It is basically similar to fitting a piston with new rings into its bore using a ring compressor. Not too difficult, just need to go slow. The last step is reassembly of the reversing valve/cam assembly. Before performing a bench test with my hand vacuum pump, I disassembled the ON – OFF control valve and dressed the slide valve with my file and used another piece of new gasket material to replace a small piece that is part of the control valve. The bench test showed the motor functioned as it should; including the park function. Something new this time was noticeably higher vacuum readings on the pump; particularly when parked. That observation was encouraging and seemed to indicate that the changes I made were in the right direction. The proof, however, would have to wait until the motor was reinstalled in the car. Fortunately, I don’t have the radio in the car yet, so the wiper motor is easily accessible once I wriggle into position on the floor ahead of the front seat… Edited November 7, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 7, 2022 Share Posted November 7, 2022 @EmTee if yours works are you interested in doing one for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 43 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said: if yours works are you interested in doing one for me? Well, we'll see how long it works... I would certainly take a look at it. What are the symptoms? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 I think the YouTube video link above should work again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usnavystgc Posted November 7, 2022 Share Posted November 7, 2022 @EmTee, I really appreciated the detailed explanation of what you did, I know I will have to tackle this one day and now I'm not going into it blind. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 7, 2022 Share Posted November 7, 2022 8 hours ago, EmTee said: Well, we'll see how long it works... I would certainly take a look at it. What are the symptoms? I can't answer that question. It's a spare that was left over from my Roadmaster and hasn't been on a car in 48 years. I am assuming it will need those paddle seals. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 3 hours ago, JohnD1956 said: I am assuming it will need those paddle seals. If it's anything like mine was, at a minimum it will need the old, crusty grease cleaned-out and lubrication of the paddle seal if it isn't hardened. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 1 hour ago, EmTee said: If it's anything like mine was, at a minimum it will need the old, crusty grease cleaned-out and lubrication of the paddle seal if it isn't hardened. Yes. thats a minimum. Who was the guy who rebuilds these. I am thinking of sending it there and have it fully rebuilt. I am not fond of replacing parts that are only reconditioned rather than rebuilt. I think it is just easier to do it once, although changing the wiper motor is not difficult in the 56. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said: Who was the guy who rebuilds these. I sent mine to Melissa Klein (Clean Sweep) in Oregon. Works great! Well OK, "great" might be a bit of an exaggeration, because after all, they are vacuum wipers with no booster pump. 😜 All kidding aside, highly recommended. Edited November 8, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 8, 2022 Author Share Posted November 8, 2022 Ficken also rebuilds them. https://rebuildingtricowipers.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 I used Ficken to rebuild the motor on my Special and he did a great job and it works better than any vacuum wiper motor I have ever had. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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