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JanZverina

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  1. Related to this thread, for those of you who are running an Edelbrock in place of an AFB or 4GC/Quadrajet and may not start your Riv for a couple weeks or more, pouring a small amount of gas from a small clean container into the forward barrels and then closing the choke butterfly either manually w/the linkage or one press of the accelerator pedal always does the trick, letting the starter crank a few times to circulate oil but reducing excessive cranking. Edelbrocks seem to be known for this. Mine is a 1406 on a stock '63 401.
  2. Thanks Bernie and Ray - your input is much appreciated! Thanks to a recent feature in the 'Riview' magazine I was given a good recommendation from a fellow ROA member here in San Diego about a shop that knows its way around Dynaflows. I'll bring my Riv in the week of the 19th to assess things and will provide an update after that.
  3. Yes, it's very photogenic - provided the camera doesn't get too close. It's very rust-free, a nice driver, and largely original except for an 80's-era repaint which has now seen better days.
  4. Thanks Tom and EmTee. I will certainly give that a try. The tip is much appreciated! Hope both of you are having a good summer. -Jan
  5. Thanks all. RivNut wrote: "You'll save money by buying transmission fluid in bulk and sitting a drip pan under the car. Have you actually looked to see which seals are leaking?" When I had a safety check/inspection done recently at my shop that primarily services older cars but does not do a full trans rebuild, they essentially said the same thing as Ed - there's no need to change the fluid since by replacing what leaks out, you're essentially doing a flush and refill. It's leaking from so many points that it needs a complete reseal, and he did give me some contacts where I might get that done. And yes, I keep a drip pan underneath like I do with my other older cars. Some questions/thoughts as I determine the best way forward : What actually causes the Dynaflow "belch"? Does that mean the fluid comes up from the dipstick tube or is there a vent or other feature designed into the trans to spew out any excess fluid? Can someone tell me how long the OEM trans dipstick should measure for a '63 Riv (with a 401)? I wonder if sometime during the cars life prior to me owning it (2015) that it was changed for some reason or other. Thanks for any thoughts. I'm leaning toward staying with the Dynaflow but wanted to learn more about what's involved with a changeover to a TH400. -Jan
  6. The Dynaflow in my '63 Riv has been raining trans fluid from multiple area after an internal rebuild several years ago at a shop that no longer services them. The trans seems to operate smoothly, the (synthetic) fluid is bright red and I am aware of the Dynaflow "belch", but before I explore resealing options, I was wondering if changing to a TH400 is a prudent move, as that was a major change for '64 and the 400 is widely considered a great design. My car is a driver and I'm not beholden to keeping the Dynaflow just for originality's sake. I also know that Russ Martin is a great recommendation, but I'd also like to hear from anyone who has swapped to a TH400 and what else may be involved, pros/cons of such a conversion, etc. I'm aware of this link where RivNut suggested Russ for some conversion parts, but maybe some of you can chime on this overall subject so I can gather some first-hand data to help me make a decision. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/305527-63-dynaflow-to-turbo-400-conversion/?tab=comments#comment-1704117 Thanks in advance and Happy 4th!!
  7. Hi Centurion, In cleaning out my storage I recently came across some nice front mats, driver and passenger from my 1960 Buick Electra 4719 which was also Cordovan metallic. They were professionally painted to match, and look to originally be a dark olive color as shown in the pix. As expected, they're heavy so shipping from San Diego may not be a bargain, but if you're interested please PM me with a modest offer + shipping. I have no need for them as I sold the Electra and bought a '63 Riv some years ago, and they may look pretty good on your new possession!
  8. Forgive me if this is off a Buick topic, but I received this card this week and as a car enthusiast, I for once have no idea what kind it is, other than it may be an Australian-made GM (Holden?) Ford, or Chrysler from the 70s. The curved upper windshield corners kind of baffle me. Let the fun begin!
  9. My '63 Riv Dynaflow leaks as well after sitting for more than three weeks, and my mechanic said it's from several points. It has done that after three years by a top shop that did a complete rebuild. The bright side is that it's more of a drip than a shower, so economics would dictate that topping it off with a quarter pint every so often may be more economical than your quoted $5k for a rebuild, which probably is under warranty for less than 36 months anyway. He said no need to change the fluid - you're doing that already! BTW, also have a '67 Jag, and that club says, if it's not leaking anymore, it's probably out of oil!
  10. Not enough on my '63 Riv. After thinking about it, the obvious solution was to simply elongate the bracket holes with a small drill bit so I could move the console storage lid aft just a little. Problem solved. Thanks for all your responses - this forum is super helpful in every way!
  11. I know all about the misaligned glove box door in the instrument panel, but is there a way to adjust the lid to the small storage compartment on the center console? Mine is super tight at the front edge, just behind the shifter plate. Is the trick to squeeze the mounting bracket a bit?
  12. Hi Patrick, I have a '63 but that had a 4GC, and now has an Edelbrock 1406. But if both the carb and air cleaner base have the same geometry as a '64 I can send you some pix and specs on what I have as an adapter. Please let me know.
  13. I just caught up with this now. What a great thread from start to finish, capped by the Tail of the Dragon video! Are you going to do it next time with the trailer attached? (only kidding!) And what a nice thing to see while many of us are staying indoors a bit more these days! Thanks again, and my best wishes to you and your family this holiday season!
  14. Just beautiful, perfect scripting and all, so many mixed emotions. Thanks for sharing.
  15. I just wanted to mention that the 808 QR steering box I recently ordered from from ROA Member Tom Telesco was worth every penny. It was installed late last week, plus a front-end re-alignment to his recommended specs - lots of positive caster! The difference is truly transformative: a nice increased level of steering effort, markedly better straight-ahead tracking, and much, much better response on road curves at (of course) moderate speeds. My alignment tech even said that this was one of the rare properly rebuilt boxes he sees, with new innards and not just the usual 'reseal it and forget it' approach. Kudos to Mr. Telesco. Not sure if some first-gen Rivs (I'm thinking GS models) had a QR box, but you first-gen owners might want to look into this.
  16. Thanks. Ed. That's what mine are but I see a few on Bring A Trailer that are all chrome including the grills.
  17. Quick question since I've seen them both ways. Are the two large cowl vents just below the wipers supposed to be all chrome or body-colored on the actual grilles?
  18. I've noticed the same thing on my '63 Riv with its OEM factory wheel covers. I spread the tangs (just a bit) and break out the rubber mallet to tap into place. It seems to help, but if you're checking tire pressures regularly, simply make that part of the routine. Most of us are used to fancy factory rims these days on our modern rides, which eliminate this issue. File under automotive engineering progress, I guess. I live in San Diego, and before that lived in Michigan (working at Chrysler HQ through various questionable mergers) so when BEVs are eventually declared mandatory in those colder climates, this will pale by comparison when one's range is sapped by heated seats, defrosters, etc.
  19. Cleanout time in the garage: Rather than throw them out or even put them in the recycle bin, I have a small assortment of parts that someone may be interested in. Some parts are free but you pay shipping from San Diego. Pix attached. Here goes: 1963 Riviera: Pair of reverse light housings and assembly. Pitted, one lense good condition, the other crazed. A rechromer’s dream! Make offer. Master cylinder. Not sure if anyone but a purist would want a single MC these days but I’m offering before I toss. Free, you pay shipping. Later model Riviera: Hood emblem for l1979-84 (?) Riviera. Gold “R”. VG condition. It was on my ’63 when I bought it. Make offer.
  20. Cleanout time in the garage: Rather than throw them out or even put them in the recycle bin, I have a small assortment of parts that someone may be interested in. Some parts are free but you pay shipping from San Diego. Pix attached. Here goes: 1963 Riviera: Pair of reverse light housings and assembly. Pitted, one lense good condition, the other crazed. A rechromer’s dream! Make offer. Master cylinder. Not sure if anyone but a purist would want a single MC these days but I’m offering before I toss. Free, you pay shipping. Later model Riviera: Hood emblem for l1979-84 (?) Riviera. Gold “R”. VG condition. It was on my ’63 when I bought it. Make offer. 1960 Buick: CS 589 carb rebuild kit for a 1960 Buick 401 4-barrel, probably fits more models. Unopened kit from The Carburetor Shop, Eldon Mo. I paid $55 for it, so make me an offer I can’t refuse! Water pump housing. Fits 1960 Buick 401, probably others. Shaft to fan broken. If this is just scrap, please tell me - I won’t be offended. Free, you cover shipping. Pair of horns from my ’60 Buick, not sure if they’re original to car. One stamped with ‘423’, one ‘424’, for what I assume is one high note, one low note. Make offer. Glad to take more pix and answer any questions.
  21. Thanks, Chris, I'm in University City close to UC San Diego, where I used to go to work before COVID, but I'm now working from home like a lot of other folks who were fortunate to keep getting a paycheck. And of course one seems to work more hours from home! I'm not driving my daily ride or classics nearly enough these days so I think that's what got me in trouble this time around. Especially the Riv - my maintenance sked is based more on time gone by than miles piling up, that's for sure.
  22. Many thanks, Jim. I think you gave me enough guidance to sleuth through this. After studying the Edelbrock 1406 pdf a bit closer, it looks like the fast idle cam was in the wrong position, and just for good measure I inspected the choke assembly more closely. It started right up normally after some minor adjustments but I'll do another "cold" start tomorrow here in 80s+ San Diego. I know, we're spoiled. But this weekend we've been getting a special dose of airborne ash from the LA-area wildfires!
  23. Hoping for some clues. Yesterday I started up by '63 Riv, which was not started in a month - my bad. I had a new Edelbrock 1406 installed on it in late 2019 and it always ran very well, worlds better than a wonky 4GC which was beyond a rebuild if anyone remember my earlier thread. (The rebuilder was kind enough to give me a full refund.) I understand that with the 1406, one should press the gas pedal once with the electric choke, but I had to press the pedal numerous times for it to start, and when it finally did, it immediately idled excessively fast, and if I pressed the gas pedal slightly it would stay at the higher rpm.. Not sure what happened, but after shutting down quickly and manually pulling the throttle linkage back a bit and lowering the idle screw quite a bit I managed to get it to start at a lower idle on choke, but before long (it's about 96 degrees here in San Diego this weekend) the engine started running off the choke and at a fairly normal rpm. This morning after a full cool-down I tried to restart and same thing, a very high idle at startup. I went on the Edelbrock site and it said to make sure there's no air getting in the carb via an open port. There's a screwed-in metal plug at the center rear (power brake port). There's a tight connection to the PCV port up front center, a good hose on the 3/16 vacuum advance port on passenger side, and a tight cap on the 3/16 manifold vacuum port on the driver's side. I also see there's a fast idle screw below the idle screw but I can't imagine how that would get out of adjustment so fast. The large throttle linkage spring is in place and everything looks to be connected according to the shop manual. Any ideas welcome!
  24. Looking for this part, which is also offered by Edelmann under Part # 80717. (I also posted this in Buick Buy/Sell but thought some Riv folks could be of help as well.) And leads appreciated! Thanks!
  25. Looking for this part, which is also offered by Edelmann under Part # 80717. And help or leads appreciated!
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