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Looking for parts 1917 Buick


Karejorgen
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I have some parts from a 1918 D45 chassis.  Front axle and spindles, Steering assembly minus wheel and center shaft linkage.  I tore this unit down and rebushed the sector shaft.  I have a spare transmission, interior looks great, the ujoint output would need rebushing.  I have springs, but I am promised them to another European, but we haven't resolved shipping yet.  I have a flywheel and clutch cone needing new leather.  I'll see what else I  may have that would interest you.

 

Let me know your thoughts.

 

Bob Engle

 

 

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While I applaud your ambition in restoring this car, the reality is finding all the missing parts and restoring this car will take years if not decades to complete.  I am working on a 1925 Buick that my father purchased incomplete in 1982 and the work is continuing nearly 40 years later.   see my Introduction story. 

 

I recommend you watch the Buick cars and parts for sale listings here on the forum for a more complete car so that you only have to make 1 large shipment instead of many shipments as pieces are found.  Also when searching for parts there is a learning curve that you go through, and what happens is you buy everything identified as "1917 Buick" and find out that half of these parts are wrong year or model of Buick and will not fit.  1917 Buicks came in 4 cylinder models on a 106" wheelbase, and 6 cylinder models on 115" wheelbase.  Parts interchange between these models is probably limited to a very small number of parts - somebody correct me here if I am wrong. 

  Below are 2 examples of more complete cars that have been listed for sale in the past few years. The car in Florida was listed for many years, so was probably overpriced and might still be for sale. Perhaps the owner is finally ready to make a deal now at a better price.   edit: car is still for sale  see link: https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/bar/d/1918-buick-cabriolet/7381950267.html

 

 

 

 

There is a current listing for 1918 rear axles & wheels priced at $2500 located in Massachusetts.   Completing your car piece by piece will cost more than purchasing a more complete car would. 

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/d/greenfield-1918-buick-rear-drivetrain/7384433137.html

 

Edited by Oregon Desert model 45
add current craigslist listing (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, Robert Engle said:

I have some parts from a 1918 D45 chassis.  Front axle and spindles, Steering assembly minus wheel and center shaft linkage.  I tore this unit down and rebushed the sector shaft.  I have a spare transmission, interior looks great, the ujoint output would need rebushing.  I have springs, but I am promised them to another European, but we haven't resolved shipping yet.  I have a flywheel and clutch cone needing new leather.  I'll see what else I  may have that would interest you.

 

Let me know your thoughts.

 

Bob Engle

 

 

Is there any chance you could send me some pictures of the parts and price for them? :) this is parts that would fit a 1917 Buick DX-45?

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31 minutes ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said:

While I applaud your ambition in restoring this car, the reality is finding all the missing parts and restoring this car will take years if not decades to complete.  I am working on a 1925 Buick that my father purchased incomplete in 1982 and the work is continuing nearly 40 years later.   see my Introduction story. 

 

I recommend you watch the Buick cars and parts for sale listings here on the forum for a more complete car so that you only have to make 1 large shipment instead of many shipments as pieces are found.  Also when searching for parts there is a learning curve that you go through, and what happens is you buy everything identified as "1917 Buick" and find out that half of these parts are wrong year or model of Buick and will not fit.  Below are 2 examples of more complete cars that have been listed for sale in the past few years. The car in Florida was listed for many years, so was probably overpriced and might still be for sale. Perhaps the owner is finally ready to make a deal now at a better price. 

 

 

 

 

There is a current listing for 1918 rear axles & wheels priced at $2500 located in Massachusetts.   Completing your car piece by piece will cost more than purchasing a more complete car would. 

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/d/greenfield-1918-buick-rear-drivetrain/7384433137.html

 

I would think this way is more expensive to get a car.

But my goal is to dig out as many parts I can from the orginal car and use again. But if I buy a complete car and move all the parts over to make my car run again, I will take parts from a more or less complete car and that is not right to me. I would prefer to build from parts so that other car that I could have used as a donor can also live. And try to have as much left of the orginal car as possible ;)

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You have a DX 45 which is the export D45. It had a 115 inch wheelbase and the light 6 engine (225 engine).

 

In 1918 the 45 went to 118 wheelbase and 242 engine and parts from these won't fit your car.

 

But, it will not be hard to find the right parts as they made 74,000 of your car in 1916 and 25,000 in 1917, total 100,000 D 45 cars out there!

 

http://hyzercreek.com/Buick.html

 

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46 minutes ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said:

While I applaud your ambition in restoring this car, the reality is finding all the missing parts and restoring this car will take years if not decades to complete.  I am working on a 1925 Buick that my father purchased incomplete in 1982 and the work is continuing nearly 40 years later.   see my Introduction story. 

 

I recommend you watch the Buick cars and parts for sale listings here on the forum for a more complete car so that you only have to make 1 large shipment instead of many shipments as pieces are found.  Also when searching for parts there is a learning curve that you go through, and what happens is you buy everything identified as "1917 Buick" and find out that half of these parts are wrong year or model of Buick and will not fit.  Below are 2 examples of more complete cars that have been listed for sale in the past few years. The car in Florida was listed for many years, so was probably overpriced and might still be for sale. Perhaps the owner is finally ready to make a deal now at a better price. 

 

 

 

 

There is a current listing for 1918 rear axles & wheels priced at $2500 located in Massachusetts.   Completing your car piece by piece will cost more than purchasing a more complete car would. 

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/d/greenfield-1918-buick-rear-drivetrain/7384433137.html

 

 

These won't help, the D45 had a different wheelbase and engine from the E45

 

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6 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

Windshield of D45 like all D cars is upright, in E45 like all E cars it's swept back, so different windshield means different cowl, different cowl means different hood, and since the leg bone is connected to the toe bone, you change the leg you change the toes, hear the word of the lord

Feel after looking at the pictures of 1916, 1917, 1918 and 1919 Buick, that the windshield is swept back on all of those years. None is standing straight up. But swept and standing windshield do not mean different cowl since the windshield is attached to a cast iron piece on top of the dash and cowl of the car and. Attached on the sides thru holes and the swept/angle is in the windshield frame and not the cast iron piece of the car.

Just my view after looking at almost every pictures on the web for those years and looking att the parts I have for a 1917.

Not trying to be difficult or anything

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43 minutes ago, Robert Engle said:

My junk chassis is serial #263156.  The car was at some time titled as 1918.  I suspect it was dealer sold in 1918, but the serial # falls within the D45 sequence of 154717 and 289851.

 

Bob Engle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

d

My car, or the remains have 301750 and is listed as 1917 in all the paperwork here in Norway.

Just a little edit: just saw that 1917  runs up to#343789

Edited by Karejorgen (see edit history)
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Karejorgen

 

looking at your posts, do you have 4cylinder or 6cylinder?

 

According to Standard Catalogue of Buick the 1917 Model year run from August 1916 to July 1917, serial numbers for 6cylinder cars from #154717 to #289851.  I support that these cars had vertical windshield posts, e.g. here https://www.prewarcar.com/317410-1916-mclaughlin-buick-for-sale or here http://www.hatfieldautomuseum.com/images-HA/5-6527.JPG

 

1917 Six has 225ci engine as opposed to 1918 E is with bigger 242ci engine. I think the 1917 smaller engine also has water inlet between #3 and #4 cylinder with extra pipe from water pump as opposed to water inlet on later models between #2 and #3 cylinders, directly against water pump output. As mentioned above, I suspect that not many parts interchanges between 1917 six and four, same as between 1917 and 1918 models.....

 

I would also recommend this book https://www.ebay.com/itm/384016918577?hash=item5969312831:g:BssAAOSwdPJgS4LW

 

If you ever travel to Czech Republic I have almost complete and intact 1917 D45 (non export, Maryland origin), but regrettably no parts to part with..... There is also superbly preserved running 1918 car in Czech Republic.....

 

And yes Bob, I am still interested to get these springs from you 😉 

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On 10/22/2021 at 10:50 PM, pepcak said:

Karejorgen

 

looking at your posts, do you have 4cylinder or 6cylinder?

 

According to Standard Catalogue of Buick the 1917 Model year run from August 1916 to July 1917, serial numbers for 6cylinder cars from #154717 to #289851.  I support that these cars had vertical windshield posts, e.g. here https://www.prewarcar.com/317410-1916-mclaughlin-buick-for-sale or here http://www.hatfieldautomuseum.com/images-HA/5-6527.JPG

 

1917 Six has 225ci engine as opposed to 1918 E is with bigger 242ci engine. I think the 1917 smaller engine also has water inlet between #3 and #4 cylinder with extra pipe from water pump as opposed to water inlet on later models between #2 and #3 cylinders, directly against water pump output. As mentioned above, I suspect that not many parts interchanges between 1917 six and four, same as between 1917 and 1918 models.....

 

I would also recommend this book https://www.ebay.com/itm/384016918577?hash=item5969312831:g:BssAAOSwdPJgS4LW

 

If you ever travel to Czech Republic I have almost complete and intact 1917 D45 (non export, Maryland origin), but regrettably no parts to part with..... There is also superbly preserved running 1918 car in Czech Republic.....

 

And yes Bob, I am still interested to get these springs from you 😉 

My car is a 6 cyl. 1917 run to #289851? Would #301750 make it a 1918 then? 

The remains of my orginal engine after over 70 years outside.

 

I will order that book too then😊20211017_104906.jpg.877ced689b867d0593ed9f5a2f1e5fa9.jpg

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After seeing that cylinder block, it almost makes a person want to set down and cry.  I have some 1916/1917 parts left over from parting out two rolling chassis.  I need to get the photos taken and post them on here for anyone who might be looking for parts and pieces..

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

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17 minutes ago, Terry Wiegand said:

After seeing that cylinder block, it almost makes a person want to set down and cry.  I have some 1916/1917 parts left over from parting out two rolling chassis.  I need to get the photos taken and post them on here for anyone who might be looking for parts and pieces..

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

Let me know what parts you have😊

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I need to clarify that the parts and pieces I have are for the 6-Cylinder models 1916/1917 Series.  I do have the ability to crate things for overseas shipment.  I have been thinking of doing something with this stuff for a while, and this just might be the encouragement needed to get the job done.  I can always use the space in the shop.  In case someone wants to visit about things, my phone number is - (620) 665-7672  We are in South Central Kansas on Central time zone.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

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,Karejorgen,

 

that would be a nice artefact and with the water inlet in the middle of engine block it really looks like D45. Seems there was a car #359783 claimed to be 1917 model with vertical windshleid and same engine block https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1448791/1917-buick-touring-for-sale-in-gilroy-california-95020

 

I have double checked what Standard Catalogue has to say (I consider this to be a good reference book, having no other source} / 1917 Models (fours & sixes) had designation "D", 1918 had "E". Then they say that D44 serial numbers were between #154717 to 289851.  D44 was designation for two seater roadster, D45 for 5 seater touring, D46 and D47 for closed cars. According to the same source the 1918 "E" serial numbers started at #345783, so this alone looks like a big gap in the number line between 1917 and 1918 models......

 

Maybe there are some people here who may throw more light on this topic.....

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33 minutes ago, Terry Wiegand said:

I need to clarify that the parts and pieces I have are for the 6-Cylinder models 1916/1917 Series.  I do have the ability to crate things for overseas shipment.  I have been thinking of doing something with this stuff for a while, and this just might be the encouragement needed to get the job done.  I can always use the space in the shop.  In case someone wants to visit about things, my phone number is - (620) 665-7672  We are in South Central Kansas on Central time zone.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

Is it possible for you to send me some pictures of what you have?😊

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20 minutes ago, pepcak said:

,Karejorgen,

 

that would be a nice artefact and with the water inlet in the middle of engine block it really looks like D45. Seems there was a car #359783 claimed to be 1917 model with vertical windshleid and same engine block https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1448791/1917-buick-touring-for-sale-in-gilroy-california-95020

 

I have double checked what Standard Catalogue has to say (I consider this to be a good reference book, having no other source} / 1917 Models (fours & sixes) had designation "D", 1918 had "E". Then they say that D44 serial numbers were between #154717 to 289851.  D44 was designation for two seater roadster, D45 for 5 seater touring, D46 and D47 for closed cars. According to the same source the 1918 "E" serial numbers started at #345783, so this alone looks like a big gap in the number line between 1917 and 1918 models......

 

Maybe there are some people here who may throw more light on this topic.....

Just got this from a friend her in Norway, this would make it 1917. I think the main problem is me getting a bit confised with the model names.

Is there any list to determine year of engines from their number?received_636950621017808.jpeg.1bcea7964d701caf243209b8d6cbabe6.jpeg

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I will get photographs of the parts that I have taken tomorrow.  I have a front axle, cast iron exhaust manifold, cast aluminum intake manifold, three steering gear assemblies, brackets to hold the manifolds to the block, and I think there are some small miscellaneous pieces.  I have rocker arm assemblies for the 1918 6-Cylinder engine.  I would like to make a deal on these parts where someone will take it all and I can be done with it.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

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3 hours ago, Karejorgen said:

 

Is there any list to determine year of engines from their number?

 

Yeah the Master Parts Cataolgue, which lists 301750 as a 1917 engine, which is the 225 light 6 engine, which we can tell from the picture because the water pump hole is between cylinders 3 and 4 while in the 242 engine it's between 2 and 3

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5 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

 

Yeah the Master Parts Cataolgue, which lists 301750 as a 1917 engine, which is the 225 light 6 engine, which we can tell from the picture because the water pump hole is between cylinders 3 and 4 while in the 242 engine it's between 2 and 3

Okey thank you😊 I also got 1 spare engine that is to new. It has a casting date on the clutch housing? 22.5.22 so 22 model maybe? Heres a pic of the engine number on the left side.20211024_164201.jpg.7da0b3eb7bffc143a805b78d324d78b4.jpg20211024_165135.jpg.77c3083c1d7e794797a3824990b2e7a1.jpg

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Karejorgen,

 

few observations -  engine # had its own sequence and usually engine # are higher than serial # (of the car). Lot of engines were exported e.g. to McLaughlin in Canada. Your spare  engine seems to have "X" and very low number so possibly was intended as export spare part from day one. I agree that "D" on the engine is a bit confusing as (judged from the water inlet position) most likely it is the bigger and newer "E" (?)engine. This could be also supported by different design of rocker arm posts, 1917(D) usually has 6 individual posts in-line, each for 2 rockers of one cylinder.  Another possibility is that this engine was produced lot later than 1917 as a replacement part for 1917 engine and used newer features like grouped rocker posts and "E" water inlet. I think you can get definite answer by measuring bore of this engine.

 

Josef

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I don't see studs to hold a valve cover on, which would make it 1919-1922 if it had them. That would make it E, the only year the 242 had no valve cover, unless that's what the 2 holes I see were for and they just took the studs out. But the push rods have springs on them, the E engines didn't have springs on the push rods. This engine looks later than 1918.

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As I posted yesterday, here are photos of the remaining 1916/1917 parts that I have left.  I must apologize about the third steering gear.  I thought that there were three but it turns out that there are only two.  The manifolds are interesting in this case.  My Illustrated Parts Catalog lists an early version and a later version.  The early set is the one with the Cast Iron intake.  It is also interesting that the catalog does not give the frame serial number break when the change went into place.  On some of the other parts throughout the production year serial number breaks were identified when the changes took place.  The rocker arm assemblies are for 1918 and up.  The manifold clamps are for the early version manifolds as near as I can tell.  The parts appear to be in good serviceable condition after cleaning up and processing.  I am willing to make someone a good deal if they would be willing to take everything shown in the photos.  Individual parts and/or pieces will have a higher asking price.  Seriously, I would like to have all of these parts gone from my shop.  One can never have too much shop space.  I can be reached at renobuickman@gmail.com or (620) 665-7672

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

PA251309.JPG

PA251310.JPG

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