Mr. Reed Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 What engine oil do you use in your car? I'm going to put 10w40 in it. Is that ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 (edited) Yes, it should work fine. What have you been using? Edited August 19, 2021 by JFranklin (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 This will be the first oil change I've done on the car. I know I have to drain the pan then the can and put a new element in the can. Do I have to fill the can before the pan? I believe it takes almost 5 quarts of oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 Do you know the history of the car? It might be to your benefit to drop the pan and clean out any sludge and give some inspection of the engine internals. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 The oil pan gasket weeps at the bolt holes. I tightened the bolts but probably should replace the gasket. I have a new one. What's involved in dropping the pan? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 (edited) Drop the tie rod/drag link. Rotate engine until front crank throughs are "up". And take pictures. I use 15-40 in mine. Takes 7 qts with filter change. I fill the filter after installing cartridge. Extra zinc not needed . Ben Edited August 21, 2021 by Ben Bruce aka First Born (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 Thanks Ben I'll take a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Century Eight Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 After agonizing and researching, I use Pennzoil 10w40 on my ‘50. Be sure to check zinc level of the new oil and probably get a zinc additive. Also add oil to the canister because if you clean out the canister, , it will take more than 5 quarts. If you don't know the history of the car, I would get the dynaflow serviced. I was shocked at how clogged the screen was on my car, yet how well it ran at the same time. Sure beats a rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 3 hours ago, Century Eight said: If you don't know the history of the car, I would get the dynaflow serviced. "You want us to do what to a what?"😯 Hey, that's what the transmission shop said when I brought them a HydraMatic... 👨🔧 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 (edited) No need to add Zinc to 1950 Buick oil. Today's oils are so much superior to what was sold in 1950 when they were new. There was no zinc in 1950 engine oil, API type SB. http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm This is the current thoughts of oil by someone in the business. Updated to 2019. Go to Richard's site and click on Download the .pdf file. https://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html Edited August 21, 2021 by Frank DuVal (see edit history) 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Century Eight Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 (edited) It’s generally true that today’s oils are so much better than the older oils, and there was an old adage to use anybody’s best oil and you cant go wrong. However today at the stores it’s very hard to find anything older that SM and certainly next to impossible to find anything more primitive than SJ. There is a concern of damaging flat tapper engines with the new oils because of the lack of zinc on the surfaces. You have to do your own research and decide for yourself after talking with the right engineers. Your comment about AB oil is interesting. I’m going to look into that. Some of todays engineers know about the tight future gen engines and dont realize how loose and sloppy our old engines from 1940 and 1950 were. Our old engines had lower revs and were not built to go 300k miles nor was there thought about the EPA. Actually too much zinc is said to be bad also. I’m no expert and there is nobody out there to help us with our old cars and its getting harder. I just keep reading and re-visiting it. I’m not pulling a trailer up Pike’s Peak and i never get to drive the old girl more than 500 miles annually, so its really a moot point. Edited August 21, 2021 by Century Eight (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 The issue is not just the use of flat tappets, as those were in engines for years, way before oil had the first ZDDP added. The issue is loading the flat tappets with heavier springs on the valves causing wear on the camshaft. The issue raised its head with the high compression overhead valve V-8s of the early 50s. The straight 8 Buick was using is an older design, from before zinc additive was invented. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richwill262 Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 On 8/21/2021 at 12:45 PM, Frank DuVal said: No need to add Zinc to 1950 Buick oil. Today's oils are so much superior to what was sold in 1950 when they were new. There was no zinc in 1950 engine oil, API type SB. http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm This is the current thoughts of oil by someone in the business. Updated to 2019. Go to Richard's site and click on Download the .pdf file. https://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html Yeah man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janousek Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 I dropped the pan on our 40' yesterday and instead of dropping the drag link I was able to raise the front of the car up until the tires were almost off the ground and it let the pan slip out. I would think this might apply to a 50' also. I choose to run a racing style oil with zinc in it. Schaeffer's racing oil at a straight 40wt is what I run in our old cars. I know oil threads are beat to death but if you have to buy the oil, why not get the best protection. Modern engines run rollers on all the friction points but these engines still have a lot of sliding metal. Our 40' was half assed rebuilt 10 years ago and it had a inch and a half of sludge in it. I know her grandpa ran regular Napa 10w30 oil but it changed hands for 8 years and doesn't appear he ever changed it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 Not sure who made NAPA oil in earlier times, but their current synthetic blends are marked "product of Ashland Oil" who also make Valvoline. Me Fords seem to like it fine... I was taught for years "oil is oil, as long as it's changed according to how the engine is used". 8 years without a change seems excessive though, even if the engine was barely used during that time. That might be where all that sludge came from, from solids settling out in the pan from lack of use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 Napa oil has been Valvoline for at least 40 years, and probably a lot longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoMechanic Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 10W-40 or 20W-50 would be my choice for that. For all my old stuff I use the Valvoline VR1 High Zinc Racing Oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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