Chrome refinishing - what to ask

[MotiveLensPhoto]

Beyond reading online reviews, what should I ask/look for when it comes to looking for someone to re-chrome some parts?

[Tom Boehm]

Are your parts to be replated steel like a bumper or pot metal?

[MotiveLensPhoto]

22 minutes ago, Tom Boehm said:

Are your parts to be replated steel like a bumper or pot metal?

Probably pot metal. Trim around the rear lights. Not bumpers. Chrome is flaking off.

[Bloo]

Search around in old threads and see who the pro restorers are using. All chrome plating is expensive, even crappy chrome plating. Prep is most of the time spent, and is extremely important. Pot metal tends to be pitted, and some platers will grind too much metal off, losing shape and detail.

 

A few platers still use hexavalent chromium like the old days that has the characteristic blue color, but most use a different type now that is more yellow by default, like you might expect to see on an 80s car. Some claim to be able to overcome the yellowish cast by newer methods. It may be true. The two jobs I have seen recently that came out extremely nice were both hexavalent though, from two different highly regarded shops.

 

Still, the prep is going to be way more important than the plating itself. About 30 years ago I was having lunch with a bodyman/fabricator and two former chrome shop workers. What I took away from that: "Always get show chrome if you want it to last". You are going to be paying through the nose either way. It would be nice if it did not need redoing in a year or two.

 

There is a long line at chrome shops, both good ones and bad ones. Always ask how long the pileup is in front of you. It probably wont be less than 3 months. Don't believe what they tell you either, unless you have talked to recent customers of theirs who say they delivered on time. Quite a few don't. Plan to be without your parts longer than you have been told.

 

 

Edited August 16, 2021 by Bloo (see edit history)

[MotiveLensPhoto]

Thanks for that. There doesn't seem to be any pitting on the visible surfaces, just a lot of flaking. Sounds like hexavalent is the way to go, since it's going on an older car and I would like it to match the bumper directly below. Once I put it away for the winter I can wait. Sounds like the same issue as with powder coating, which I used to order a lot of.

[13CADDY]

my 2 cents worth--don't send anything to a shop because of a cheap price--those are the parts that can't be replacei d when they ruin them--i sent my windshield frame to a shopto be plated, they ruined it--had to have a new one made---

[MotiveLensPhoto]

1 hour ago, 13CADDY said:

my 2 cents worth--don't send anything to a shop because of a cheap price--those are the parts that can't be replacei d when they ruin them--i sent my windshield frame to a shopto be plated, they ruined it--had to have a new one made---

You're telling me. I've been searching for these parts for over a year.

[Walt G]

Perhaps do some of the prep work yourself? Have the parts "deplated" then get them back and gently sand as much as you can with caution by hand , then have copper plated to fill the pits and sand again? before having the nickel and chrome on top of that.

Edited August 16, 2021 by Walt G
typo (see edit history)

[MotiveLensPhoto]

6 hours ago, Walt G said:

Perhaps do some of the prep work yourself? Have the parts "deplated" then get them back and gently sand as much as you can with caution by hand , then have copper plated to fill the pits and sand again? before having the nickel and chrome on top of that.

Based on my experience with home remodeling doing the demo and prep part doesn't save more than a few pennies.

[Bhigdog]

Most quality shops won't let you prep. Their reputation is based on the finished product. Poor prep. Poor finished job......Bob

[Bloo]

Not to mention that with the typical wait times, the job would drag out to years.

[Bloo]

58 minutes ago, Golden73 said:

Based on my experience with home remodeling doing the demo and prep part doesn't save more than a few pennies.

 

It's different.

 

Quality chrome is a triple plate, copper-nickel-chrome. The chrome itself I'm told appears clear, it is the nickel you are looking at through the clear chrome. A part has to be like a mirror before the chrome goes on.

 

If the part is not like a mirror, and it never is, the plater might sand things way down so less metal and time is used, and all the detail of the part is lost, and it looks kind of wavy before he really gets going, He might even skip the copper. You have probably seen disappointing parts like this and there is nothing to do usually to bring it back. More parts must be bought (or fabricated) and then sent to a different shop.

 

OR he can plate the part copper, sand a little, plate with copper again, sand a little, back in the copper tank again over and over until the low spots are filled up and then he can polish the copper to a mirror finish. When it is perfect, he can plate with nickel and then chrome. It takes a lot of shop time to do it right. Plating these metals requires all sorts of hazardous materials, like vats full of cyanide (yes, really) and hexavalent Chromium itself is quite poisonous. The environmental costs are through the roof to use and dispose of the spent materials.

 

If you see some part that is missing all the detail, has visible sanding scratches in it or is peeling, then you know what happened.

 

Talk to people who have had work done. See the job if you can. Take a drive if you have to. ALL the shops are expensive, even the horrible ones. The most economical job is the one done right the first time. You could easily wind up buying more parts if someone ruins or loses yours, and paying for the job a second time at a second shop.

 

Choose carefully.

 

My last load was done at Librandi's. The quality is outstanding and they delivered a few days early. I will use them again, even though I had to ship the parts clear across the country. No surprises, no problems.

 

 

[Bhigdog]

39 minutes ago, Bloo said:

My last load was done at Librandi's. The quality is outstanding and they delivered a few days early. I will use them again, even though I had to ship the parts clear across the country. No surprises, no problems.

 

I live close enough to Librandi to take my parts for an in person evaluation and cost fix. Todd does excellent work, delivered on time, at the stated price. That said, Todd also knows how to charge. But then again the words re-chrome and inexpensive should never ever be used in the same sentence..........Bob

[mike6024]

I think getting a good base copper plate layer is most important so the chrome doesn't peel. I think the copper layer should be thicker. You want to do it better than was done originally. I've seen newly redone chrome peel in short order, really disappointing, and I would think it was a cheap job, maybe they didn't even use a copper plate base layer?

[prewarnut]

I do home decorative plating of copper, nickel, gold....I'll let any professionals jump in, in case I'm wrong. To correct a few points. Chrome is not translucent - so while it looks similar in "color" to nickel it is a full layer over top with completely different characteristics in sheen, color, hardness, etc. People on-line may talk of it being clear but that is misguided as it is really about the final effect - that it presents a clear reflection like a mirror when done well. Also the thickness of layers in microns has little to do with adhesion. In fact in some cases too thick a layer can cause problems due to different mechanical properties such as coefficient of expansion, etc. All one is looking for is a few layers of atoms (well a little more than a few) in the base layers. The copper is great, as stated to fill voids. It is "workable" and can be sanded, filed, engraved, buffed or whatever needed. It can also "level" itself a bit. The nickel acts as a blocking layer and can also "level" depending on the formulation and presents a more work-hard surface for a top plated coat - in this case chrome. It is harder to "work" (ask me how I know). It also helps to prevent chemical reaction with the base material. As stated chromium is paired to different oxides resulting in different anatomic structures which will affect its final characteristics. All in all the base piece and initial layer really has to be perfect in order for the top plate to look good as any divot, scratch or blister will telegraph through.

[Restorer32]

When customers complain about the cost of chrome my standard response is "Don't complain about the price, be happy that you can get it done at all"

[MotiveLensPhoto]

21 hours ago, Bloo said:

 

It's different.

 

Yep. I wouldn't attempt the prep work.

A. doesn't save much money (if any).

2. I don't have the tools, etc.

D. Would likely make it worse.