1918 Dodge Brothers tourer

[Mattml430]

I have to finish this 1918 tourer of for a fella, it was his dads and he died before he finished it. He wants to keep it the same colour that his dad finished it in. He admits it’s a bit out there but that’s ok. The bulk of the car is done. 
It’s been sitting for 15 years so I’ll check everything before trying to turn it over. 
Im definitely not up to speed on the older girls so I might have to lean on you guys a bit if I get stuck with anything. 
One thing he has asked is the windshield frame correct. The top section is shorter than the bottom. 
Here she is tucked in between her younger sisters. 

[Mark Gregush]

While the straight windshield is correct for 1918, the mid year 1919 slant windshield (1920 models) roadster windshield was 2 inches lower than the touring. I don't know if that was the case in 1918, lower windshield. Here is a sample of 1918 touring; https://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/classic-cars/dodge/other-models/a-powerful-and-very-well-built-1918-dodge-model-30/9313004

[robert b]

Got books Matt will give you any information you need , let me know the frame number when you can, it will be under the  front seat I think , parts are about if I twist some arms up here . Ha ha ha  Bob

[Mattml430]

Thanks Mark I came across the same car searching. That screen appears to behalf and half where the one on this car appears smaller at the top. Could be the overlap that makes it that way though. 
Thanks bob I’ll have a look and give you a call. 👍

[nearchoclatetown]

Looks like a weekend project for you, Matt. It has the wrong gas and radiator cap. A friend in DBC used to redo radiator caps, he may still have one. Might not be an issue, but just make sure the gas cap is vented. I see you are missing the ignition switch, or is it in a box? I HOPE so.  Look very carefully at the distributor number. If it is a 10,000 distributor they are different then a 10,000-4. The 10,000 was only used a few months and has a double grounded condenser. The proper ignition switch for it reverses polarity every time you start it. Key only turns clockwise. Off at 12:00, on at 3, off at 6 and off at 9. At 3:00 it would be one way, at 9:00 the opposite polarity. My sedan is like that. You COULD use a normal switch and run polarity one direction but Ron and I will be able to tell. I have wiring diagrams to confuse you if necessary.  The door tops appear to be wood. DO they look professionally made? I know of a '15 with them and they look factory made. We are trying to figure out if they were an accessory. Oh, and it probably had a clock on the left side of the dash where the extra hole is. 

[Minibago]

Hi Matt,

Well researched Mark, as I understand the roadster had a lower windscreen (although my 1917 Roadster is normal) and this was fitted to my 1919 Tourer by the very short original driver (ex Canada Cycles sales manager) and yes it has a shorter top screen by about two inches.

 

 

This creates a number of problems for taller folk, (5 feet 6 & 1/2 😂) with the hood up your head touches the roof and the top rail is right in your eye-line. I found a mangled set of full height posts and had them straightened and tilted back the same as the short set.

 

 

I purchased a couple of windscreen frames of the correct height but sadly not the correct width from the US and cut and shut to make a good one.

 

 

 

Turned out much more user friendly to drive.

 

 

I believe the door tops were originally metal.

There was a clock in mine originally but I changed the dash back to original so the clock, not working, is available.

Well done for helping finish another DB car Matt.

 

 

[Mattml430]

Thanks Doug I’ll check all that out. He did give me a heap of boxes full of spares so I’ll go through them all. 
There is Allen key bolts in the running boards that made me think of you and Ron immediately 😂

[Mattml430]

6 minutes ago, Minibago said:

Hi Matt,

Well researched Mark, as I understand the roadster had a lower windscreen (although my 1917 Roadster is normal) and this was fitted to my 1919 Tourer by the very short original driver (ex Canada Cycles sales manager) and yes it has a shorter top screen by about two inches.

 

 

This creates a number of problems for taller folk, (5 feet 6 & 1/2 😂) with the hood up your head touches the roof and the top rail is right in your eye-line. I found a mangled set of full height posts and had them straightened and tilted back the same as the short set.

 

 

I purchased a couple of windscreen frames of the correct height but sadly not the correct width from the US and cut and shut to make a good one.

 

 

 

Turned out much more user friendly to drive.

 

 

I believe the door tops were originally metal.

There was a clock in mine originally but I changed the dash back to original so the clock, not working, is available.

Well done for helping finish another DB car Matt.

 

 

That’s awesome thanks for that. So it would appear to be correct then. Is it just a rubber or a frame with rubber in it on the top glass to create the overlap? 

[Minibago]

There is a rubber seal that sits on the lower glass like this.

 

 

 

 

I think I got mine from Tom and Cindy Myers but it should be available from Peter Jackson in Sydney I would think.

[Mattml430]

12 minutes ago, Minibago said:

There is a rubber seal that sits on the lower glass like this.

 

 

 

 

I think I got mine from Tom and Cindy Myers but it should be available from Peter Jackson in Sydney I would think.

Thanks that’s perfect 👌

[nearchoclatetown]

Yes, Myers, Romar, and others sell the h shaped rubber that goes on the glass. I make the rubber end caps that go on the tear drop shaped piece. 

[nearchoclatetown]

As said, the roadster windshield is 2 inches shorter. And the screenside is 2 inches taller. 

[Minibago]

Hold the bus,

Perhaps the hole on the left is for the choke not a clock?

 

[Mattml430]

So I’ve got back to the 1918 tourer to try and get it finished. 
I fitted all the new tyres and tubes yesterday so I could move it from the garage to the shed. 

Today I went about trying to get it running. I turned it over quite a bit and put some Deisel and oil down the pots just to lube the top end. After that I thought I’d see if it would fire so I stuck some fuel into the primers. 
It’s turned over slowly for 3-4 times and then fired up and stopped as soon as it ran out of fuel. 
So with that knowing that it was going to run I called our good old mate Bob up in Northern NSW and asked him for some pointers on getting it running and staying running. I’m still a kindergarten kid on early dodges so getting advice from Bob was just gold. 
After a good old chat and some invaluable information passed on to me I went about making the suggested adjustments and after replacing the old fuel and priming it up. Just with a few turns she fired back into life after resting almost 20 years. It runs just beautifully and sounds great so I’m real happy with that. 

Next job will be to finish of all the electrical wiring and getting all the lights working. 
the light switch is in a million pieces so that will be fun getting it back together and actually working. 
Nice to be learning a bit on the earlier dodges. All reasonably familiar after doing my old 26-27 but a little different in places. 

[nearchoclatetown]

I am convinced if they turn over and have compression they will run. I didn't know you Aussies put Chevy engines in your cars? My truck engine was painted the same way when I got it. 

[Mattml430]

3 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

I am convinced if they turn over and have compression they will run. I didn't know you Aussies put Chevy engines in your cars? My truck engine was painted the same way when I got it. 

I was thinking of painting the engine but it’s not my car so I’ll have to ask. 
They were black back then weren’t they. 

[nearchoclatetown]

No sir, too late for black ones. They were blue/green.

[Minibago]

Won’t it go faster being Red?

[John McEwan]

Not trying to be nasty but was this bloke’s Dad colour blind?

[Mattml430]

11 minutes ago, John McEwan said:

Not trying to be nasty but was this bloke’s Dad colour blind?

Not sure what was going on there but there must be good reason behind it. Wouldn’t be my personal choice but that’s what makes the world go around. 

[Mattml430]

I got started on repairing all the lights today. They are all pretty rusty and in bad shape. I have one brass reflector and one steel reflector I have to bring back to life. The steel one was very rusty it will need a lot of copper coat. 

this was the steel reflector after sandblasting. 
Im going to try make one good one out of the two taillights. 

[Mattml430]

Made a little bit of progress on the old girl. 
I finished rebuilding the stop /tail light and have mounted it in the middle of the spare.

I don’t know how they are originally done but this will work. 

Adding a stop light to it in today’s traffic is a must I think. 

The spare carrier needed a little bit of adjustments on the bottom mounts to make it all work and fit properly. I guess after a 103 years I could have any year model bits on it. 
I have new headlight lenses coming from Cled with a choke cable also. 

Replating one of the reflectors was hard work. It is still very average but it was an atrocious mess to start with. 

Managed to get all the bits together for the ignition and light switch and rebuilt it all. 
I have the lock at a locksmith getting a new key made for it and once it’s back I’ll re assemble it and get it working again. 
Next job will be a new head gasket as it has about 4-5 leaks coming out between the head and block so I’m hoping that’s all it will be. 

[Minibago]

Matt, I would recommend machining the head flat in addition to replacing the head gasket.

[Mattml430]

7 hours ago, Minibago said:

Matt, I would recommend machining the head flat in addition to replacing the head gasket.

Yes that’s a great idea I’ll check it all once I have it of. Definitely worth doing. 

[Mattml430]

Found the old Clum head light switch and ignition switch in a margarine container in bits. 
luckily it was actually all there and I was able to get it all back together. 
Got it back together and found I had put the disk in 180 degrees out so once I turned it it all worked well. 
Dodge’y Pete put me onto a mercury outboard key that fits the old clum switch after a bit of filling. 

Notice those screws Ron and Doug. I’m learning slowly 😂🤣

[nearchoclatetown]

Matt, I had a switch that played Gov't worker, it worked when it wanted to. It had developed tracks in the paper insulator from pocket to pocket. The brass rubbed off on the paper and caused it to not work right. I used an ink eraser, the white ones, and cleaned it up, has worked ever since. Sand paper was too harsh. 

[Mattml430]

Removed the head on this old girl and found it had a modern head gasket on it. 

The engine itself is in excellent condition internally, still has the hone marks in it and all new valves by the looks. 

Fitted a new copper gasket and with some great advice from Bob he said the head will be fine after I measured it up. 
I gave the head a light blast and internal steam clean to get as much gunk out as I could. 
I gave it a bit of a freshen up and did an in frame paint job on it. 

painted all the accessories in satin black. 

Ill finish getting it all back together on Monday and fire it back up and see how she runs. 

[nearchoclatetown]

Just woke up here, Matt. Had to take a third look to realize that was aluminum foil and not the tops of the pistons. 

[MikeC5]

Lookin' good!

[Mattml430]

Been having trouble trying to get this to run properly again or at all pretty much. It will fire but not run so I need to get my head around the way the magneto is timed to the engine I think. 
I have a few busy days ahead on some of my old food trucks with maintenance so when I get back to it I’ll go from the start and check over everything. I’ve done something wrong somewhere getting it all back together. It was running but very temperamental to start originally. 
A good learning curve when you have problems to solve. 👍

[Ron Lawson]

That big ball pein  hammer sitting on the Dynastart  has scared the crap out of it mate 

[Mattml430]

Just letting it know who’s boss mate. 😂

[Minibago]

Matt, that is not what is mean’t when they talk about “Tappet”

 

😂😂😂

[Minibago]

Seriously tho, would this help?

 

 

 

[Minibago]

But wait, there is more!

 

 

I really love the old books.

A tip regarding top dead centre if you think you are close then look in the starting handle hole when the pin is exactly horizontal the you are at TDC.

[nearchoclatetown]

But isn't TDC really when the piston is down since you guys are upside down?

[nearchoclatetown]

Matt, I may have additional information on mag timing if you are not confused enough with Minibagos. The early DB manuals talk about using number 4 exhaust valve. When approaching TDC number 1 JUST as number 4 exhaust valve closes and has clearance is actual TDC for number 1. The pin referred to in the end of the crank will help too. I just learned of that recently, have not had a chance to use it. Matt, I found several brochures plus an early owner's manual that deals with Mags, but we used Eismann's. I will gladly scan then to you if you need. One thing I don't see in Minibago's info is the advance lever is to be in the full retard position to set the mag. 

Edited November 9, 2021 by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)

[Mattml430]

Thanks fellas I’ll check it all in the next few days. 

[Mattml430]

I was able to get stuck back into the dodge today after getting all my food truck jobs out of the way. Had good success with timing the magneto this morning and got it fired up. Had to advance the timing manually by adjusting the shaft position a couple of times. 
 

I discovered the mag shaft had a couple of big holes drilled in it which must of got out of whack when I had it off painting the engine. It is over a hundred years old so you have to accept things like that happening. 
I have drilled and tapped some grub screws in it now to get the exact position. 

I had it starting of the crank handle perfectly until I gave it a rev and the dust sheet I had protecting the paint on the guard blew up from the fan and decided to jump into the flex joint joining the water pump to the magneto. 🙄

Sheared the pin in the flex joint so I was back to square one again. So 20 minutes later after unwinding the drop sheet out of the shaft I had to make a new leather flex joint because it was out of shape. 
I guess the man upstairs thought I needed to practice timing the magneto again. 
Got it all done and running really nicely again and starting of the crank handle. The dash switch I rebuilt also turns the engine off now to. 

Once she was filled with water again I discovered some leaks in the radiator so with a call to Bob with some expert radiator repair advise I was able to repair 4 small pin holes and hopefully when I get it all back together tomorrow the leaks will be fixed. It held good pressure at 3 psi for a good while. 

Had Jack the owner call in today who is a great fella, that can really appreciate the time and effort that goes into getting these old girls going again. 
We decided today to get rid of the pink chassis and go to a satin black with it all. So from Monday it will be guards and body off and a respray for the chassis and wheels. 
Be well worth the effort I think. 
so it’s all progressing along well. 

[Ron Lawson]

Hey mate , when I was a nipper one of my cousins bought a 26 DB ute the radiator looked like a porcupine as it had little sticks tapped into small holes There were lots of them Jim the cousin threatened to boot my arse it I touched them  Seeing that one brought back the memories