John McEwan

1/8 bsb

My ‘23 had a what I thought was an engine vibration problem but it turns out it’s pretty normal. The engine being solidly mounted to the chassis only added to it. I ended up installing rubber engine mounts on the rear mounting ring and now no vibration at all speeds. The improvement is marvellous and is so much more comfortable to drive and be in.f

The rear cylinders gets hot because the water jacket in the block gets clogged up with sludge and rust surrounding the cylinders. It takes a bit of work to clean them out but worth it.

This is my Dodge in 1974 when I started restoring it. At this stage it had been standing outside for 14 years. It was our family car till I was 18 months old. They are not real clear as I took these images off a couple of slides.

Finally getting it back together after around 10 months. Resleeved back to new standard bores, new pistons, polished crank journals and clearances checked, valve seats recut and inlet valves reconditioned and stainless exhaust valves, reground cam for newer overlap, decked block and slightly shaved head, new head studs and recent gearbox upgrade to new 1st and 2nd higher ratio. The best recent upgrade has been the rubber engine mounts. It was running on three and a half cylinders and was as smooth as silk. Should be even better now.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Can the oil pump driveshaft be fitted or changed without removing the sump and front engine cover plate on an early 20’s Dodge 4? Plus would anyone have a spare to sell?

I think this is going to be the best looking 1923 Dodge engine in my street.

I’ve finally got my ‘23 engine back together except for the head after resleeving etc. It’s ready for paint (2 pak thanks to Matt) My query is if I paint the head and head nuts after tensioning down, do two or three heat cycles then re tension, how do I not mess up the beautiful new paint on the nuts and area around the nuts? Maybe not paint those areas and touch up after?

$185 in Melbourne.

Not trying to be nasty but was this bloke’s Dad colour blind?

That’s the style.

Both it seems.

Does anyone have a nylon camshaft gear off and early Dodge 4 they would sell me? The usual suppliers are out of stock and I thought whilst I am having the cam re ground I might try and get one. Heard good things about them like quiet running etc. Any thought? I don’t want to run a fibre gear and currently have the steel one.

Do they hardweld the lobes before grinding or just regrind the standard lobes?

Is there any performance gain from the reground cam?

Lifter arrived from Nigel yesterday. What a nice bloke. This is what being a Dodge Brother is all about. Thank you.

Can anyone give a report on the results from machining the 1” off the flywheel on the early Dodges?

Do I see a bullseye?

I would worry about bending con rods from too much compression. These rods are like ice block sticks.

Thanks Nigel Will let you know when it arrives.

Looking for a complete lifter for a 1923 Dodge 4 in Australia if possible.

Contact JP Pistons in Australia. They can machine their pistons and rings to any size.

So it will be finished by tomorrow at 4pm.