M1842 Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 (edited) Finally got around to taking the front brakes apart on my 55 Special. All went well getting the front wheel/tire off. First sign of trouble - the wheel would not turn freely. It took quite a lot of effort. I am not certain if it turned freely when I put the new tires on, I don't remember spinning them at all. Popped off the grease cap and wiped the grease away from the nut. The cotter pin looked odd, wiped off more grease and ID'd it as a piece of wire strung through the castellated nut. Pulled the wire out and tried to turn the nut by hand, no dice. Took a socket wrench to it to break it loose. Brake drum still doesn't want to turn, I took a dead blow hammer to it and loosened it from the back plate and I can feel the drum move around now. Drum still doesn't want to turn. I'm am guessing the shoes are expanded into the drum and that there is a ledge inside. Tomorrow night I will get under the car and try to turn the drum shoes in and try pulling the drum again. Mark Edited June 14, 2021 by M1842 spelling (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobileparts Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Mark, Good luck in the process. The brake shoes might be held in to a -- created outer lip of the brake drum-- locking them in.... I have the brake shoes, wheel cylinders, wheel bearings and seals, if you need or want any of that, once you achieve success.... Craig .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 (edited) Uggg, got the hub and drum off and the drum is heavily scored, measured the drum with a gauge and got 12.065 so i will need to replace it. Also found a lot grease in the bottom part of the backing plate so the seal for the inner bearing must have been leaking. And finally, one end of a brake return spring had been wrapped around the anchor pin in a 540 turn. I was able to twist and brake it off. Someone tried to keep this on the road on the cheap. Guess I should be happy they did as it may have kept the car from the crushers. Edited June 16, 2021 by M1842 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2carb40 Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 Drums available, but would need to check with brake mic to confirm servicable. Send a Private message if you need them. In MN just so you know for gauging shpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 Thanks, found some already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 Are those static collector things in the caps do anything? Are they worth reinstalling? Just ordered a set of preformed brake lines from Inline Tube, the front right line snapped as I was trying to get it disconnected from the hose last night. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 55er Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 I don't know if those radio static springs actually do anything or not. Some cars have them and others don't. If they're intact and in good shape I would reinstall them, if they're broken or bent I would throw them out and not worry about it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Brink Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 Mark, You've already got your wheel off but you should have been able to back the shoes off using a brake spoon (https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Adjusting-Spoon-Adjuster-Wrench/dp/B01GFGI716/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=brake+spoon&qid=1624070322&sr=8-7) and you will need one to adjust after reassembling things. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted June 19, 2021 Author Share Posted June 19, 2021 I did have a brake spoon and backed the shoes up so I could pull the drum/hub off. Took awhile to get the adjuster to turn, but finally got it moving. While I have everything open decided to replace the front shock absorbers, got the top nut backed off to the point where I can no longer keep the rod from rotating but the nut won't turn on its own. Tried a nut splitter but ended up just bending the rod. Going to the dremel next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 10 hours ago, M1842 said: While I have everything open decided to Where does that quote come from? I know it is a famous one. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted June 19, 2021 Author Share Posted June 19, 2021 36 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said: Where does that quote come from? I know it is a famous one. We are going to need a bigger hammer. 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Cut the top nut with my dremel and dropped the shock, seems about twice as heavy as the replacement shock. Either original or period replacement. Then went to the lower control arm bumper, of course the stud and nut just turned. Removed petrified and deteriorated rubber hoping the stud would continue under the rubber but no dice. There is a round metal dome that must have had the rubber volcanized to it. So I guess I am going back under the car to dremel the nut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 On 6/18/2021 at 11:28 PM, M1842 said: I did have a brake spoon and backed the shoes up so I could pull the drum/hub off. Took awhile to get the adjuster to turn, but finally got it moving. While I have everything open decided to replace the front shock absorbers, got the top nut backed off to the point where I can no longer keep the rod from rotating but the nut won't turn on its own. Tried a nut splitter but ended up just bending the rod. Going to the dremel next. Put a pair of vice grips on the shaft. 😃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 2 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: Put a pair of vice grips on the shaft. 😃 Wasn't even enough to grab the shaft at the top and the washer and rubber spacer kept the shaft covered so no access there. I suppose now that i could have gotten to the shaft on the inside of the inner fender. Dremel cut off wheel worked well. LOL 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 There is three ways I handled the spinning shaft. Vise grips. Bouncing the car while on the ground as I used my impact gun to keep spinning the nut. I had a shock absorber kit that a threaded cylinder was screwed on the shaft over the nut. In the cylinder side is a threaded hole for a long bar. One both pieces were in position simply move the bar up and down until the shaft just below the nut snaps. Oh, a torch is handy as well. Cussing was effective more so psychologically then anything else. Throwing a wrench in disgust was sometimes helpful but more like a temper tantrum. But what happens in the garage stays in the garage. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted July 21, 2021 Author Share Posted July 21, 2021 So i am working on removing the front brake drum from the hub to install a new drum. I started wondering if i could tap the holes in the hub so i could run bolts down through the brake drum into the hub much like how the rear drums bolt onto the axle flange. I have yet to measure hole sizes or thickness of parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fr. Buick Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 I used button-headed allen bolts and a nut on the back with thread sealer. For the guide pins, I have new stainless ones with a longer threaded shaft to allow a nut on the back, then trim to size. This lets you keep your guide pins. PM me if you want the last pair I have 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 The original drums are hubcentric. And replacement drum should be hubcentric also. The big problem is keeping everything aligned while mounting the tire. Just make some temporary studs to screw in while mounting the tire. I use these even when mounting original setups. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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