Plumbinguy Posted February 23, 2021 Posted February 23, 2021 I have no idea what oil was last used in my vehicle. My question is, when I add a quart of oil between now and complete oil change... If it has standard oil can I add synthetic, or visversa. Or if I were to error which would be less of an issue. Synthetic to standard, or standard to synthetic. Obviously a complete change would be best, but I have to travel some thirty miles for that. And while I'm here, best oil to use? Thanx in advance for your assistance.
Bloo Posted February 23, 2021 Posted February 23, 2021 Any oil is better than low oil or no oil. I do like to top up with the same oil when I know what it is. If not, top up with good quality oil and don't worry too much. .
C Carl Posted February 23, 2021 Posted February 23, 2021 Sure. Dino lard and synthetic are compatible. If it is going to be some time before you can get your oil changed, and you are an obsessive type, start lacing the synthetic in. When you change, go to a high quality , full synthetic multi-viscosity oil as per specified in your manual. Amsoil and Mobil 1 are among the very best. If your car will periodically sit undriven for a week or more, might be a good idea to use Amsoil Z-Rod which is formulated to give extended protection for such eventualities. Comes in 10W/30 and 20W/50, or blend half-and-half to make 15W/40. And in general, if your car sits for months at a time, it is better to let your car wait for a good drive and get a full warm-up, than to do occasional cold starts without loading the engine to operating temp. - Carl
Plumbinguy Posted February 24, 2021 Author Posted February 24, 2021 Thanx guys. Never let car sit for more than a week. Worst thing you can do to a car in my humble opinion.
Nile Posted February 24, 2021 Posted February 24, 2021 I agree with everything above and use Mobil 1 in all my 16v TCs except one. For some reason, I'm assuming better lubricity, my 89 oozes Mobil 1, but if I use the same viscosity regular oil it does not leak. At least it wasn't as bad as a buddy who switched his new Subaru to a 0 weight synthetic - had quite the puddle on the garage floor the next morning.
Hemi Dude Posted February 24, 2021 Posted February 24, 2021 On 2/23/2021 at 3:06 PM, C Carl said: And in general, if your car sits for months at a time, it is better to let your car wait for a good drive and get a full warm-up, than to do occasional cold starts without loading the engine to operating temp. - Carl You may wonder want I use in mine. Mobil 1 also. These days they have so many varieties, I think that the last time I changed the oil I put in their high mileage version, go figure. Regarding "if the car sits for months at a time." I have used the following practice, I park the car after being sure it has been run, on the road, long enough to be sure the exhaust system is free of condensation. The following day, the engine oil will be cold and thicker, I start the engine and run it a few 'moments', let's say 5 seconds, just long enough to circulate the oil throughout the engine, then shut it off. In this way, all lubricated parts have been coated with a layer of thicker oil that will linger on the bearing surfaces longer, as a protection and lubrication for the next startup whenever that might be. People can doubt the validity of my reasoning, but with over 290,000 miles on the odometer now, I think it might help. 1
Plumbinguy Posted February 24, 2021 Author Posted February 24, 2021 Actually, it makes perfect sense!
ghostymosty Posted March 7, 2021 Posted March 7, 2021 I think that was the reasoning behind adding STP to engine oil, keeping a film of oil on bearing surfaces reduces that 'start up wear'. Thicker oil remains on the parts longer but you want it to be able to thin out as it heats up, hence the advent of multi-viscosity oils (10W30, 10W40, etc).
Plumbinguy Posted March 7, 2021 Author Posted March 7, 2021 Hey Ted sweet, have you ever listened to an engine start after sitting for a period of time. I'm sure you have. Not a pleasant sound. I would try anything to prevent the wear I see in my head as all the engine parts are begging for oil. It may only be a second or two, but just doesn't sound good. 1
rmtroutman Posted March 14, 2021 Posted March 14, 2021 I use Castrol Magnetec 10W-30 engine oil in my '90 TC V6 and it seems to function well. Castrol Magnetec oil is supposed to have the ability to cling to all surfaces and prevent "dry" starts, which they claim is when 75% of all wear occurs. No engine is going to last forever but this may help to prevent unnecessary wear.
2Shelbys Posted March 14, 2021 Posted March 14, 2021 I use Amsoil Premium Protection or Z-Rod in all my cars. Have for years. The V12 in my '90 750iL still looks new inside with 172,000 miles on it. The original owner used Amsoil too.
Plumbinguy Posted March 14, 2021 Author Posted March 14, 2021 Cool, good to know. Now which one, decisions, decisions.
Hemi Dude Posted March 14, 2021 Posted March 14, 2021 In my old 360CI 79 Dodge truck, here is the inside of the engine with a zillion miles on it. I really don't know how many, the engine got passed from a 74 Duster to a 67 Dodge Coronet to a 63 Belvedere SW to the 79 Dodge truck. then into my son’s 63 Belvedere.
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