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For Sale: 1967 Cadillac Eldorado - Green - OK - Not Mine - 7/28 & 7/16 Price Reduced - 1/21 SOLD!


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For Sale on Craigslist  1967 Cadillac Eldorado in Norman, OK  -  $13,500  -  Text or call Chris:  405 738 6082

 

                                                       On 7/16, Seller reduced price to $13,000

 

                                                       On 7/28, Seller reduced price to $12,500

 

Link: https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/d/norman-1967-cadillac-eldorado/7150450448.html

 

Seller's Description:

1967 ELDORADO factory 429 and front wheel drive transmission (first year)
This one was my Dads favorite Cars (First year for this 3 year iconic body style)
always garage kept, 117,000 original miles,
drives nice and runs fantastic
RARE factory Color black interior and carpet. This car has been babied all it life. always garaged kept.
$13500 OBO  clean title in hand.  text or call 405 738 6082 sell or partial trade for ?

 

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Edited by 6T-FinSeeker
update status (see edit history)
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image.png.7e85385ce2f051d4c1cfe55a5bbbd8

 

"Never been smoked in..."

 

Actually, I like the car and the price is certainly reasonable. Good color combination and I would surmise that the A/C works given the position of the control lever.

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Thanks for this tip about the '67 Eldorado for sale in Norman, OK.  I've inquired about three such Eldorados for sale here in CA and have had only one brief reply from one seller.   I've never seen this seafoam green color on a '67 Eldorado and I like it; has a cooling effect on these miserably hot CA summer days!

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Meant to mention about the manual rear quarter windows:  It does seem unusual on a Cadillac but if I were to be the new owner, I'd be happy because I'm recalling the rear quarter-windows on my '64 Buick Riviera years ago never worked!  

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Greetings from miserably hot Fresno, CA -- Can anyone refer me to a classic car repair shop in or near Norman, Oklahoma, so I could arrange for an inspection of the seafoam green '67 Eldorado?   I've been "letting my fingers do the walking," as the old time Yellow Pages slogan used to go, on the Web but haven't found any auto shops in Norman that advertise the repair of classic cars.   I thought I had a source for an inspection in Norman but that source fell through.   Any referrals would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you - George 

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All the best to you in your investigation!  I feel it's always

best to look at a car oneself, but having someone else

who is knowledgeable about old cars is the next best step.

It's likely there won't be an antique-car restoration shop

in a typical Oklahoma town.

 

The list of antique-car inspection services has been

discussed on this forum previously.  Many feel that they

hire people who don't know cars, and that the results are

not at all worthwhile.  AAG is specifically mentioned.

 

There's a better chance of an AACA member living

fairly close.  You can contact the AACA region nearest to 

Norman, Oklahoma and have a member check it out for

you, paying him for his courtesy.  (I've paid someone

$200 a couple of times when the car was 2 hours away.)

 

Here is the list of AACA regions and chapters.  The west

is rather sparsely populated for AACA, so there are just 3

regions in Oklahoma:

 

http://www.aaca.org/Community/regions-a-chapters.html

 

Edited by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)
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2 minutes ago, ManorAvenue said:

Someone referred me to CLC for an inspection source.  I am not a member and I don't know what CLC stands for.  Please enlighten me.  Thanks.

 

Cadillac & LaSalle Club.

 

Jim Vesely

BCA # 39477

ROA # 7437

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29 minutes ago, ManorAvenue said:

Someone referred me to CLC for an inspection source.  I am not a member and I don't know what CLC stands for.  Please enlighten me.  Thanks.

 

That's a reminder to us all not to use many abbreviations,

or slang, or jargon.  What seems obvious to some people

may be completely unknown to others who come from

different backgrounds or geographical areas.

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1 hour ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

 

That's a reminder to us all not to use many abbreviations,

or slang, or jargon.  What seems obvious to some people

may be completely unknown to others who come from

different backgrounds or geographical areas.

Actually John, in this case, I did that on purpose.  Join the clubs folks!   Club membership is very important and useful in this instance and the club's are hemorrhaging membership as we get older.  If an interested person can not deduce what CLC means, maybe we are lost.

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Taking a humorous break, Jake, I looked up what the

acronym "CLC" can stand for.  With tongue in cheek, 

here are a mere selection from the more than 100 choices.

I hope you don't mind!

 

Canadian Labour Congress

College of Lake County 

Christian Life Center 

Central Labor Council

Chinese Language Center

Central Lutheran Church

Corporate Leadership Council

Central Land Council

Community Law Centre

Cascade Land Conservancy

Children's Legal Centre

Crystal Lake Camps

 

 

 

Edited by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, deaddds said:

Is it safe to assume the car needs a lot since it would have been inspected over 2 weeks ago? Pictures look very nice but the mechanic must have gave a poor report?

 

People almost never buy a car inspected by a third party. The inspector doesn't want to risk any liability and does almost too thorough a job. Every little scratch and ding and demerit is noted, and the potential buyer gets a report that has a long list of things wrong with the car without any context, and freaks out. I bet I could find 100 "issues" with almost any car, but it doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad car. Context really matters and that's one thing most inspectors can't/won't/don't do. They just hand the buyer a long list of defects without any additional information.

 

Say we're talking about this green Eldorado, which I'm assuming is a decent original car with some work done over the years. Not a show car but not a dog, just a very average car that a hobbyist at a local cruise night would be happy to own and drive. Note that I have not inspected this car, I'm just creating a what-if. A useful report with some context might go something like this:

 

"This is a decent mostly original car that drives well and everything works except the clock. No major rust, but normal surface rust on undercarriage. Does not appear to be structural. No visible bubbles in paint but car has been repainted some time ago and there is evidence of the repaint (minor overspray and some tape marks behind some trim pieces) but nothing that should concern someone who is going to drive and show the car casually. It still looks decent with a bit of fading and could be taken up a notch with a professional detail and polish. If there was rust repair it was done well and is not unwinding and is not visible. Chrome and trim is original so not perfect and has some minor pitting but fits with the overall condition of the car and does not look bad. Car operates correctly but acts like a 50 year old car with a carburetor that is grumpy when cold. Slight exhaust leak when cold but goes away after engine warms up. Good performance from the giant engine--no surprise that only rich people could afford to buy and feed these cars. Normal seepage from the joints but no critical oil leaks that are out of the ordinary. Windshield shows some minor scratching and wiper marks but is not cracked or damaged. Tires have plenty of life left in them with more than half tread remaining. Interior in good original condition with light signs of wear and age but nothing damaged or ruined that needs immediate attention. Some mismatched parts under the hood and in the trunk, but car appears complete and functional."

 

Unfortunately, they usually get a report that goes like this:

  • Many chips in paint (the report usually includes a drawing with all kinds of marks on it showing location of all the chips, plus EXTREME close-up photos of every single chip).
  • Evidence of previous paint work
  • Paint thickness gauge indicates possible evidence of repairs (BONDO!)
  • Paint is old and does not shine
  • Oil leaks present on engine, transmission, and differential
  • Rust present throughout undercarriage
  • Car is hard to start and does not idle well
  • Engine is very loud
  • Carpets worn
  • Driver's seat worn
  • Door panels worn
  • Headliner loose in areas
  • Spare tire does not match
  • Jack missing
  • Tires down to 7/32" tread depth
  • Many scratches in glass
  • Chrome trim damaged and weathered
  • Doors require heavy effort to open and close
  • Very poor fuel economy observed during test drive

Ignoring that we're talking about the same car, which one would you buy and which one would you run away from?

 

Inspectors are typically pretty bad at their job when it comes to this hobby. The worst ones are guys who inspect late-model Toyotas all day and think that 80-year-old cars should look, feel, and act the same way. Actually, scratch that, the worst ones are from a certain three-initial inspection company who intentionally crap all over a car so they don't have to worry about someone buying that car and being angry at them later for things they may have missed, plus they look like heroes and will get another inspection fee for at least one other car from the same sucker customer. Many so-called "inspection companies" are actually working this very scam, which, if you think about it, is sheer genius. Not so great for the rest of us, but pretty hard to prove.

 

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Manor,

For 12.5K I would jump on a plane and fly out to Oak City.

I just brought my L.A. tool maker out to Denver to make some sales calls.

His ROUND TRIP ticket from LAX to DIA was $45.00 on Frontier.

Fly out, rent a car, do your own evaluation on the car.

Scratch the round trip and drive it home......................

 

Mike in Colorado

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  • 6T-FinSeeker changed the title to For sale: 1967 Cadillac Eldorado - Green - OK - Not Mine - 7/28 & 7/16 Price Reduced - 1/21 SOLD!
  • 6T-FinSeeker changed the title to For Sale: 1967 Cadillac Eldorado - Green - OK - Not Mine - 7/28 & 7/16 Price Reduced - 1/21 SOLD!

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