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Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.


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I was lucky enough to come across this beautiful old girl. ( wife has already named her Daisy). 
it’s an interesting build as it’s a timber frame with a budd body front, guards and side. We think it may of been supplied as a roadster to TJ Richards and a factory built Ute. The doors are a one piece pressing so haven’t been added onto. The Ute section had been screwed on through the top side beading. The rear sides had been cut above the guard’s and widened by about 2” a side.  I’m going to add the dicky seat back into it and make it back into the sports roadster it once was. 
This will be a pretty long Resto as I want to do everything as original as possible. There’s a lot of panel work to do but I’m looking forward to tackling all that. She has pretty good bones and most parts and panel’s are there. Bonnet, guards and sides are all reasonably solid. It should keep me busy for a few years. 
 

 

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I’ll do my best Spinny. I’m very impatient when it comes to these old girls I just want to see them finished. 
wheels off today and a Deisel bath to get into all the nooks and crannies. Will be taking the body off this weekend I’d say. 

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What a great project, Mattml430!  It will be a very beautiful car when you finish it.

 

There was a somewhat elderly gentleman whom I met at the 1986 DB Club national meet in Reno, NV in 1986 who had a sports roadster that was really beautiful.  Maybe somebody can tell me his name; I am sorry, but I don't remember it.  However, I think he was then a long-time member of the DBC.  In any event, his car was lovely and seemed very correctly restored, as far as I can tell.  So you might want to check to see if his car appears in any pictures that the DBC might have of their 1986 national meet.

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20 minutes ago, 22touring said:

What a great project, Mattml430!  It will be a very beautiful car when you finish it.

 

There was a somewhat elderly gentleman whom I met at the 1986 DB Club national meet in Reno, NV in 1986 who had a sports roadster that was really beautiful.  Maybe somebody can tell me his name; I am sorry, but I don't remember it.  However, I think he was then a long-time member of the DBC.  In any event, his car was lovely and seemed very correctly restored, as far as I can tell.  So you might want to check to see if his car appears in any pictures that the DBC might have of their 1986 national meet.

This car?

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3 hours ago, 22touring said:

What a great project, Mattml430!  It will be a very beautiful car when you finish it.

 

There was a somewhat elderly gentleman whom I met at the 1986 DB Club national meet in Reno, NV in 1986 who had a sports roadster that was really beautiful.  Maybe somebody can tell me his name; I am sorry, but I don't remember it.  However, I think he was then a long-time member of the DBC.  In any event, his car was lovely and seemed very correctly restored, as far as I can tell.  So you might want to check to see if his car appears in any pictures that the DBC might have of their 1986 national meet.

I have a friend in the club here that has one and from the day I cast my eyes on it it became my dream vintage car. I’m going to do my best to keep it as original as possible as a roadster not a Ute , even though it was probably a factory made Ute at some stage. 

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2 hours ago, keiser31 said:

Owner is Bill  Gess a long time member of the DB Club. See your private message....

 

Thanks keiser it’s funny I came across that one while google searching the car. Mine was actually that colour originally also. I didn’t see that many pictures of it though so all the pictures I can get will help. It is beautifully restored when you see how it was when he got it. 
cheers. 

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6 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

John, once again your memory comes through. I forgot about Ted's, he lives in Maryland. BTW, there is a lot of Victory information on the DBC website in the Confidential Information and service bulletin pages. 

Both of the cars I posted photos of used to belong to Niles Thomas. He was a good friend and used to live near me.

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Got the body off this afternoon to reveille a bit of rust in the chassis. To be expected I guess seeing that it’s was a Ute. 
I can make all new bits for it where the floors go in and I’ll fabrication some new parts for the chassis. All very fixable and part of the challenge to get her back on the road. 
engine also turns over ok so at least that’s not seized. 

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Managed to get some chassis parts made today. Thought I’d make each new piece as I remove so I don’t loose or forget where they go. I’ll be replacing the top section of the chassis And down about 3”, that will remove the bulk of the rust out of it. It only needs replacing between the engine mount and front rear spring hanger. 
 

 

got no idea why they loaded upside down. 

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On 11/28/2019 at 3:32 PM, keiser31 said:

Both of the cars I posted photos of used to belong to Niles Thomas. He was a good friend and used to live near me.

It was Niles Thomas who owned it in 1986 when I saw it.  He drove it around in a big Ford van.

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26 minutes ago, JB-ed said:

By the way, your springs and axles are flipped to make this "underslung," which is not correct. The axles go under the springs.

Nah I don’t think so. None of my dodge’ s have the Rear  axle under the springs. 
The  front axle is. It would sit like a dragster if that was the case lol. 

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Had the chassis and all the guards sandblasted today. Will make it a lot easier doing all the repairs now. Lot easier to see where it needs the attention. 
only 1 broken leaf in the front spring but the rest of the running gear looks to be in great condition. 
All the nuts and bolts will come of a lot easier now it’s blasted. 

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Hoping to have all the rust repaired in the chassis by the end of the week, so then I can pull the engine and diff out. Remove all the springs and replace the bushing. I’ll also run new steel brake lines and fuel line while I have good clean access to it all. 
 

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Rather than steel brake lines, might I suggest Cunifer, nickel-copper lines.  They are much easier to bend and flair, and they won’t rust.  They also have the coppery color the original lines had.  They are used in many modern cars.  I used them on my 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan and couldn’t have been happier.

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2 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Rather than steel brake lines, might I suggest Cunifer, nickel-copper lines.  They are much easier to bend and flair, and they won’t rust.  They also have the coppery color the original lines had.  They are used in many modern cars.  I used them on my 32 Dodge Brothers DL sedan and couldn’t have been happier.

Ok , thanks I’ll look into it. Can we get them in the same size as original?

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9 minutes ago, RichBad said:

You can get 3/16” CuNi here pretty easily, it’s pretty standard.  1/4” also available.  What size are your lines?

They look like 1/4 to me but I haven’t measured them. 
where can I get it from Rich? 

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Just realised the stuff I got was 1/4” but plain copper.  Very easy to form which is good.  Probably closer to what was used originally and available on eBay or any AC place - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163814585470

 

cupronickel doesn’t seem to be so readily available here although pretty easy to get from uk on eBay.  I think the Australian ADRs require bundy or stainless for brake lines which may be why it’s not so readily available here.

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Yer I can see plenty in UK and US but not a whole lot here. Few mixed ideas on weather it’s legal in Australia or not. The pressures in our cars are obviously perfectly ok to run copper being that it’s been fine for 90 years. If it was manufactured with copper I think it’s fine to have copper in it again.  

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Copper gets brittle and can crack.  It doesn’t like constant vibration.  My 29 Plymouth had its original copper brake lines when I got it and several snapped with little pressure when I removed them from the frame during restoration.  Copper-nickel doesn’t corrode, stays flexible and has a superior pressure rating.  I made repeated, flawless double flares with my Eastwood flaring tool, and easily bent the lines to their original locations.  I helped a friend install stainless lines and they were a pain to flare and bend using the same tools.  You can probably get away with copper, but I’ll always use copper-nickel from now on.

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I just had a quick look at the brake lines and it would appear the front 2 line’s are 3/16 and the rear single line is 1/4. 
didn’t actually measure them just looked, bit full from Christmas lunch to be going to, to much trouble. Haha. 
Are they measured from the OD or ID. 

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I’ve completed all the chassis fabrication and all the rust repairs on it. Have also made new body supports that run along the chassis. 
pulled the engine and gearbox out yesterday with the help of my 5 year old grandson. 
It’s  all looking nice n clean and  tidy. Next is all the springs and bushes, about 6 leaves need to be removed from the rears as they bulked up the rear end for the Ute. 
 

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