zuno Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 KYB vs. Bilstein shocks have been discussed on this site ad nauseum. "The KYB 4550 lower mount ears are too short... The KYBs are too soft... The Bilsteins are too expensive..." I was torn between using the oft-cited KYB KG4550 or Bilsteins. My previous experience with KYBs in their recommended applications has been excellent, although my current SUVs have Bilsteins and previous cars I've shod with Bilsteins have been excellent. In order to determine what was causing the dissatisfaction amongst some members using the 4550 "too soft... terrible..." I contacted KYB technical support. The engineer looked up the "mid-stroke damping rate" and it is "130/60 meters per second". He explained that the 4550 shock is damped to work with a car ~ 3400# - he used a 1967 GTO as an example. Now we know a '63-'65 Riviera with A/C is going to weigh ~ 4200# so I mentioned that to the engineer. He replied "the 4550 is not designed to carry that load, it will be under-damped." He then went on to explain that he joined the company 20 years ago, is very proud of their products and that they put a lot of time into designing the line (we were talking about their Gas-a-Just shocks). He also acknowledged that Bilstein makes a great product and there are things you can do with a product that cost 2 - 3x the price of their products as an acknowledgment of the Bilstein's quality. However, we should realize that we are using - per KYB's own technical staff - an under spec'd part when we use the KG4550 in our Rivs. I'll be buying the Bilsteins and I now understand why I have never had a bad experience with KYBs I've used in the past: I've always used a KYB-vehicle-specific part ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I have the Bilsteins & love ‘em Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsgun Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I've been looking at Viking. They typically make coilovers, but they make shocks for the Riv. They're about $100+ more than Bilsteins, but they have adjustable stroke and rebound and are fully rebuildable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon452 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 I 2nd the bilsteins. Worth the extra cost IMO. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr914 Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Bilsteins are certainly the way to go, specifically designed for the cars. I have sold over a hundred sets since Bilstein came out with them. As we were selling many many Bilstein shocks for Porsche and loved them, I was really sad that they were not available for Riviera so I dropped the hint and before long they made them !!! What a difference on the car, especially with the GS spring set. After installing this combination, we then want quicker ratio steering, disc brakes, and seats with more side support!!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 This topic HAS to be for guys who drive their Riviera with both hands on the steering wheel at the same time. Delco gas shocks for the boulevard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zuno Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 I am installing a LARS faster steering box, and the HP spec springs (Coil Spring Specialists) and an Addco sway bar. I am not the type that needs to wear string back driving gloves when I get in my car. I just want to bring the handling up to a more modern standard. My car has excellent OE spec shocks and - as designed - it's floaty. I don't recall having these feelings about my '63 when I drove it in the early 80s, but modern cars' capabilities have moved the bar up w/regard to modern highway traffic, and I think the changes will be worth it. So, you can go way of the Monroe OE Spectrum or the Bilsteins, but I wanted members to know the previously recommended KYBs as an "in between" choice is a no go. Hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 9 hours ago, dr914 said: After installing this combination, we then want quicker ratio steering, disc brakes, and seats with more side support!!!! Might as well buy an Acura. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 5 hours ago, zuno said: So, you can go way of the Monroe OE Spectrum or the Bilsteins, but I wanted members to know the previously recommended KYBs as an "in between" choice is a no go.. Always good to have data, but the KYBs may still be a valid choice for a shock that sits between the Monroe and the Bilstein. Remember, “underdamped” is a relative assessment rather than an absolute measurement. That is, folks who want a softer ride may just as accurately say that the Bilstein is overdamped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 May I ask what the total cost for the Lares box cost with shipping, core charges, etc??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 You should probably ask what that Lares box is, as well. The last time I talked to them, they said that the 800 box couldn't be modified to a quicker ratio. And they (like you ) could not (or would not) tell me the ratio of the box that they did sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadShark Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Excellent info. Thanks. I went with the Bilsteins for mine. I've had good luck with them on other applications in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 On 3/2/2019 at 3:52 PM, 60FlatTop said: This topic HAS to be for guys who drive their Riviera with both hands on the steering wheel at the same time. Delco gas shocks for the boulevard. Bernie, You mean if you like steering your Riviera with the back tires, kind of like driving a Clark Forklift. Better yet driving a Riviera that feels like you are flying an airplane. For me, the Bilstein shocks, rebuilt steering box, new rubber in the front sway bars and rear track bar and new front alignment with radial tires has made it feel like the front tires are actually on the highway. Other than that not much change in the boulevard ride. Turbinator 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 On 3/2/2019 at 7:07 PM, zuno said: I am installing a LARS faster steering box, and the HP spec springs (Coil Spring Specialists) and an Addco sway bar. I am not the type that needs to wear string back driving gloves when I get in my car. I just want to bring the handling up to a more modern standard. My car has excellent OE spec shocks and - as designed - it's floaty. I don't recall having these feelings about my '63 when I drove it in the early 80s, but modern cars' capabilities have moved the bar up w/regard to modern highway traffic, and I think the changes will be worth it. So, you can go way of the Monroe OE Spectrum or the Bilsteins, but I wanted members to know the previously recommended KYBs as an "in between" choice is a no go. Hope it helps. Zuno, your set up is a good solution that works. . I went with Bilstiens, DoubleT rebuilt 808 steering box, new rubber in the front sway bars, new rubber in the track bar. New front end alignment. I’m kind of new to restoring a car, but had a drivers license in 65. I remember how the mid 60’s GM power steering cars drove. I’m in with my boulevard feel just fine on my 63 Riviera. Thank you Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 17 minutes ago, Turbinator said: I am installing a LARS faster steering box, and the HP spec springs (Coil Spring Specialists) and an Addco sway bar. Don't get the front tied down too tight and do nothing to the rear. You'll be watching oncoming traffic through the passenger door window. There's a rear bar available. I think it's from Addco as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 AND, I know the way to properly mount it so it doesn't hang below the rear diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 2 hours ago, RivNut said: Don't get the front tied down too tight and do nothing to the rear. You'll be watching oncoming traffic through the passenger door window. There's a rear bar available. I think it's from Addco as well. If all you change are springs (to ones that are still factory spec) and the sway bar, is that really going to be such a drastic difference that the car will become uncontrollable? Seems to me that it might be advisable to do the rear control arm bushings and track bar bushings before making any determination about adding a rear sway bar. Experience suggests that folks often use a worn-out system as their baseline for mods, when a properly maintained stock system would prove to be a big improvement and perfectly adequate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 I'm thinking that if you get the front end tied down you might have a tendency to overdrive the car and take it beyond its limits ( or the driver's.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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