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Newbie with 1922 Buick Model 35 Touring car


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Brice, 

      Get in the habit of using steel split collars for pulling parts on this car apart.  I have an assortment - 3/4, 1", 1 1/2", 2", and I use them to prevent pulling on flanges that are fragile.  Here is what I used to remove my steering wheel.  I set the jaws on the split collar connection bolts.     Hugh

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Hi Brice,

 

Thanks for the reply, You are making great progress, keep the photos coming its a great resource and encouragement.

Cracked engine mounts sounds like some damage may have occurred in the past , any accident damage in the cars history ? 

May be worth checking the chassis is still "square"

 

I have been looking for a Horn Button since I brought my car,  if you find  two pls let me know. I would even be interested in your broken one

should the worst occur !!  My backup plan at this stage is to have some black resin or black plastic turned down to the right size. I have tried

other GM cars but could not find a matching one.

 

We had some family issues that's taken some time to overcome but back on track now , restoration can be a long term job,

On the workshop front  I am becoming skilled in termite repair / replacement of damaged building timbers. What started off as a post replacement

has grown into a 15m wall of crumbling !@#$ .  Sorted thru my stockpile of parts and discovered a Ford A and a Studebaker Radiator and shell, no idea how I came

by those. More interestingly found a box with a steam governor and 2 gauges that was a $2 find at an auction some years ago..

 

I am endeavouring to build the body "first" I have little to no wood work and missing a few body panels , your photos, Hugh's and other forum members have been a great help.

Just a few rust repairs to do !

Kind Regards

 

Norm

 

 

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54 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Brice, 

      Get in the habit of using steel split collars for pulling parts on this car apart.  I have an assortment - 3/4, 1", 1 1/2", 2", and I use them to prevent pulling on flanges that are fragile.  Here is what I used to remove my steering wheel.  I set the jaws on the split collar connection bolts.     Hugh

 

 

Great tip Hugh, just checked on eBay $4 - $20 AUD depending on size ..

 

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Hugh,

 

Excellent tip I will be looking into getting couple different sizes as you pointed out. I did get the nut off but there is a key way in there so the suggestion of the split collars is the best idea.  Defiantly will need the puller to pull it free from 97 years of sitting in one place. LOL.

 

Brice

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Hugh,

 

That is a way cool way to remove the steering wheel.  You guys are something else out there.  A person is never too old to stop learning.  The day a person stops learning is the day that the hole is dug.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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8 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

Hugh,

 

That is a way cool way to remove the steering wheel.  You guys are something else out there.  A person is never too old to stop learning.  The day a person stops learning is the day that the hole is dug.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

 

I know how to dig a hole, but I don't know how to fill it from the inside. I guess that will be the last thing I have to learn. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Removed the fly wheel and cleaned the inside of housing. Looks much better now, lol. Thinking about painting the inside housing with gloss Rustoleum to hopefully protect it a bit and may prevent some of the grease and dirt from sticking as much.

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Bryce,

On your fuel gauge - does it look like the ring holding the glass in is some type of snap or expansion ring?  The curved segment with the markings looks to be in pretty decent shape - you might want to pull the pin and remove that so as not to do any damage to that piece.  From the photos it is obvious that the glass lens goes in from the top.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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The only way to get that curved section with the fuel level markings is to cut or grind off the peened wire that holds the float. Then try to peen it back on once I get it cleaned. I will look closer to see if the ring on the front will come loose as you suggest first. 

 

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On that sliding starter gear.

There is a one way clutch inside the gearset. Be sure that it works freely. It is there to prevent the starter / generator from overspeeding if the sliding gear doesnt disengage the flywheel when the engine starts.

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Don, yep your correct it will only turn one way, checked it last night. It was a little stiff at first but after spinning it a little bit it freed up nice. My guess is that there is still a bit of old grease in there that I need to push out by adding new grease till it comes out clean or completely disassemble and flush out and put back together. Looking at it I assume that I just drive the pin out and then the shaft slides out and can then take apart for cleaning.  

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The one I just worked on was nearly solid with caked grease.

Your mount is different than the '18. I'd guess that the pin does have to come out.

 

The internal mechanism is pretty neat. This is it disassembled.

It was a totally gunked up mess outside, but in great shape inside. Cleaned up well

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Don,

Got mine apart cleaned and back together no problem just like you said very simple and straight forward. Like yours mine was caked with old grease as well even though it would turn. Installed back in flywheel housing and moving on to next thing. Thanks for the picture helped in looking at what to expect.

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Next issue I finally got the fuel gauge  glass out to clean. Would anyone have a good clean picture of the paper showing the pointer that is sandwiched between the two pieces of glass? The ring holding what a snap ring and after putting a bit of penetrating oil on the ring it loosened up and out it popped with a bit of help. Or if any one would know where to get on made would be nice too. The paper on it is very fragile and I don't think it will last long once back in. 

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Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)
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Mine not that bad but I am glade I took it apart and cleaned it up. At least now it will hopefully be more reliable and spin the boat anchor of a flywheel easier, lol. It dose turn a bit smoother that it did before disassembly and cleaning.

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Hi Brice,  I Ve been fortunate to be given some sheet metal from two door pillars. Some rust on the bottom section but an easy fix.

They have been notched out to fit over the frame runner or so I thought.  The cut edge doesn't look factory  and may have been done

when that car was "uted" (turned into a farm truck) . 

 

how does this compare to the panels on your vehicle?

 

Regards

 

norm

 

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Hi Norm,

Here are some pictures of the pillars between the front and rear door. I may not be in the right area your asking about if not let me know and I will take some more. I have not been doing much on the body been working on drive train and getting it back down on wheels and off jack stands.

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Brice,

Thankyou for the photos.  Great help..   The two pieces came from car that is down to be turned into a delivery truck

 (enclosed van) it was missing rear doors, tub, wood frame..  A story I know well..

 

I have also been given some ...blank.....the bits covering the frame in the door openings .Interestingly they too

have folded over ends of  say  3 mm enough the hold the metal off the  timber on top and the face.

Hugh, has mentioned "spacers" on his original frame a few times, makes more sense now, in lining up the body.

 

Again thanks for taking  time out  for the photos,  appreciated you sharing your journey

 

Regards

 

Norm

 

 

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Finally started some reassembling LOL. Got clutch plate cleaned painted and reinstalled. Also drained old oil from transmission checked gears all looking good. Sprayed down the gears in trans with kerosene to get all the sludge out of the bottom it was not too bad but now has nice clean gear oil in it pored in from top all over the gears. I am using for both trans and the rear-end AMSOil Severe Gear SAE 250.

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Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)
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Brice,

I get a big kick out of looking at these 4-Cylinder parts and pieces.  My son-in-law said the transmission from the D-45 looked like something that came out of a ton and a half truck.  You are doing a great job at getting this car put back together.  Keep up the good work.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Well as you know I have been trying to find a picture of the fuel gauge logo as shown in an above post. I have had no luck so I decided to take a different approach and make my own a bit different that the original. I hand cut it out of vinyl with X-acto knife and a very sharp blade. First cleaned up the gauge housing removed the float by filing of the peen repainting the housing with Jet Glow (an aircraft paint that is fuel resistant) and reassembling it. Here are the before and after. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It is defiantly harder to do by your self than with other people helping. My wife being a good sport and a great support of the project helps with what she could but with her bad knees she was a bit limited, however she has always made the difference in getting things in place. She works the hoist up and down as I call out while I mussel stuff into position. Now just have to start putting the breaks with associated activation rods and parts on then the wheels to get off the jack stands. I will feel much better once it is back on the ground on the wheels not having to worry about knocking it off the jack stands. 

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Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)
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