RatFink255

Newbie with 1922 Buick Model 35 Touring car

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9 hours ago, RatFink255 said:

cxvgd, I have thought of that as well and glad you mentioned it just confirms my thoughts. I agree that may be a good idea to have them reclined with something a bit safer. Do you know what the original thickness of the pads should be for each of the bands inner and outer?

Briceimage.thumb.jpeg.44dba66d035ac20ed6d013ed307abf04.jpeg, According to the manual 5/32"for 1922 and 3/16" for 1923 ...Norm

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9 hours ago, RatFink255 said:

Norm, sorry just got your post I will get couple posted for you tomorrow. I see Hugh posted some on his 25 which gives good view with no body attached. I will get you a few with body panels to see if there is any differences can be seen.

Thanks Brice 

It appears that a 22 and 23 may be narrower at the front  than the 25. ..?

Hugh has done an amazing job documenting his 25 , I can at least identity all my missing pices now..? And have a handle on how the frame goes together structurally.

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AussieBuick,

Here are the pictures I hope this helps a little bit more for you was tried to get more than you needed but if you need me to put a tape measure and photo it let me know it is not a problem. 

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Brice, Thanks for the photos.  Very subtle differences in the model 35 and my later 25.  Always a gold mine find to see original interior materials like the door panels.    Hugh

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15 hours ago, RatFink255 said:

Norm, sorry just got your post I will get couple posted for you tomorrow. I see Hugh posted some on his 25 which

1 hour ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Brice, Thanks for the photos.  Very subtle differences in the model 35 and my later 25.  Always a gold mine find to see original interior materials like the door panels.    Hugh

 

4 hours ago, RatFink255 said:

AussieBuick,

Here are the pictures I hope this helps a little bit more for you was tried to get more than you needed but if you need me to put a tape measure and photo it let me know it is not a problem. 

 

Brice,

Many thanks for the photos ,  all your woodwork appears  in useable condition. Strangely the only intact  woodwork I have is a door  with the leatherette material and flap also.  Of the 23's I seen here none have had the original interior survive.  

Also i posted a reply on the brake lining question earlier,  similar view here in oz asbestos has been banned in cars for some time.  A few restorers have mentioned  to me as well as brake re-lines ,  clutch resurfacing can also be done by the brake shop guys as well for not a lot of money.  Regards Norm

 

 

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Norm,

Ya from what I have read on the forms here I am very lucky that the only wood issues so far is the one spot that broken off in the back drivers side that you can see in the third picture on my original post will not be too much to fix and move on. well least lets put it this we will see once I start digging more into the body then it may be a bigger surprise but I hope not.

Brice

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I have a small drip at the bottom of the differential. It is not bad but just sitting it is couple drops every couple days on floor. I am think of splitting the differential and replacing gasket. Looking at parts book can not find part number for gasket, is there even a gasket used on these? If not thinking of using Make a gasket to try and stop leak. My concern is once car up and running diff fluid gets warmed up the leak will get worse.

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Brice, I used 1/64 gasket paper on the differential cover. I wiped the gasket with sealant on each side.  I also used Blue loctite on the bolts for sealing purposes, as they are not blind holes and can leak thru the threads.  The loctite was 24010 which is easy to apply.   I used a copper washer under the bolt heads with sealant on each side of the copper.      Hugh

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Well ran into the first OH S#!& moment during the rear end cleaning. The post that holds the brake band on was broken. It appears that it was repaired once and with everything installed everything looked alright. Not until I took the brake bands off  to clean and paint did it become obvious as to what had happened. The pictures below shows it better than my typing. It appears to be nice and solid now after the fix but obviously time will tell and I will have to watch it closely to be sure. 

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Before putting the rear axle on the car,just check the weekness just inside the "races" as in the picture.And be sure the race are "paralell" with the other side!

Leif in Sweden.

Buick 1923 0004 006 - Kopia (2).jpg

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Posted (edited)

Hey Norm,

 

It is going slow but constant. I changed motor mounts today as the two on car were cracked at the ears. Luckily I had two spares. You can see the crack in the ear on motor mount in last picture.

 

I am trying to find a electric horn button that goes in the spark lever. The wire broke of pulling it out of the steering column. Not sure how it is to come out but I figure it may get damaged in the removal process so just thought I would try and find a replacement. Got transmission off and painted housing looks good. Also working on getting steering wheel off so to repair the wooden wheel. That bolt is on good and tight so trying not to damage it as well so being cautious, lol.

 

I had to dissemble the rear end because there was a broken ball thrust disk and the differential housing would not close all the way. Luckily I have an extra rear end for parts and was able to scavenge the needed parts from it. The hard part was reassembling it through the pinion gear hole in differential because I could not get the key way off the axil ends. 

 

How is your project going? 

 

Brice

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Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)

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Posted (edited)

Brice, 

      Get in the habit of using steel split collars for pulling parts on this car apart.  I have an assortment - 3/4, 1", 1 1/2", 2", and I use them to prevent pulling on flanges that are fragile.  Here is what I used to remove my steering wheel.  I set the jaws on the split collar connection bolts.     Hugh

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

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Hi Brice,

 

Thanks for the reply, You are making great progress, keep the photos coming its a great resource and encouragement.

Cracked engine mounts sounds like some damage may have occurred in the past , any accident damage in the cars history ? 

May be worth checking the chassis is still "square"

 

I have been looking for a Horn Button since I brought my car,  if you find  two pls let me know. I would even be interested in your broken one

should the worst occur !!  My backup plan at this stage is to have some black resin or black plastic turned down to the right size. I have tried

other GM cars but could not find a matching one.

 

We had some family issues that's taken some time to overcome but back on track now , restoration can be a long term job,

On the workshop front  I am becoming skilled in termite repair / replacement of damaged building timbers. What started off as a post replacement

has grown into a 15m wall of crumbling !@#$ .  Sorted thru my stockpile of parts and discovered a Ford A and a Studebaker Radiator and shell, no idea how I came

by those. More interestingly found a box with a steam governor and 2 gauges that was a $2 find at an auction some years ago..

 

I am endeavouring to build the body "first" I have little to no wood work and missing a few body panels , your photos, Hugh's and other forum members have been a great help.

Just a few rust repairs to do !

Kind Regards

 

Norm

 

 

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54 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Brice, 

      Get in the habit of using steel split collars for pulling parts on this car apart.  I have an assortment - 3/4, 1", 1 1/2", 2", and I use them to prevent pulling on flanges that are fragile.  Here is what I used to remove my steering wheel.  I set the jaws on the split collar connection bolts.     Hugh

 

 

Great tip Hugh, just checked on eBay $4 - $20 AUD depending on size ..

 

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Hugh,

 

Excellent tip I will be looking into getting couple different sizes as you pointed out. I did get the nut off but there is a key way in there so the suggestion of the split collars is the best idea.  Defiantly will need the puller to pull it free from 97 years of sitting in one place. LOL.

 

Brice

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Hugh,

 

That is a way cool way to remove the steering wheel.  You guys are something else out there.  A person is never too old to stop learning.  The day a person stops learning is the day that the hole is dug.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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8 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

Hugh,

 

That is a way cool way to remove the steering wheel.  You guys are something else out there.  A person is never too old to stop learning.  The day a person stops learning is the day that the hole is dug.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

 

I know how to dig a hole, but I don't know how to fill it from the inside. I guess that will be the last thing I have to learn. 

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