RatFink255

Newbie with 1922 Buick Model 35 Touring car

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Bryce,

On your fuel gauge - does it look like the ring holding the glass in is some type of snap or expansion ring?  The curved segment with the markings looks to be in pretty decent shape - you might want to pull the pin and remove that so as not to do any damage to that piece.  From the photos it is obvious that the glass lens goes in from the top.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

The only way to get that curved section with the fuel level markings is to cut or grind off the peened wire that holds the float. Then try to peen it back on once I get it cleaned. I will look closer to see if the ring on the front will come loose as you suggest first. 

 

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On that sliding starter gear.

There is a one way clutch inside the gearset. Be sure that it works freely. It is there to prevent the starter / generator from overspeeding if the sliding gear doesnt disengage the flywheel when the engine starts.

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Thanks Don. I take it that the two gears should be able to spin independently with a bit of pressure simulating that the gear dose not disengage from flywheel?

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Don,

I think that I remember someone somewhere saying that their overrunning clutch gear got installed backwards and that they had a huge problem until it got corrected.  I would think so!

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Aussie that is what I thought at first too, LOL :). No it is just joggle (small step down or up depending on the design) not sure why they did it but thank goodness not a crack. 

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The gears should be able to rotate separately.

I dont think it can be assembled wrong. I just went through my spare

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Don, yep your correct it will only turn one way, checked it last night. It was a little stiff at first but after spinning it a little bit it freed up nice. My guess is that there is still a bit of old grease in there that I need to push out by adding new grease till it comes out clean or completely disassemble and flush out and put back together. Looking at it I assume that I just drive the pin out and then the shaft slides out and can then take apart for cleaning.  

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The one I just worked on was nearly solid with caked grease.

Your mount is different than the '18. I'd guess that the pin does have to come out.

 

The internal mechanism is pretty neat. This is it disassembled.

It was a totally gunked up mess outside, but in great shape inside. Cleaned up well

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Don,

Got mine apart cleaned and back together no problem just like you said very simple and straight forward. Like yours mine was caked with old grease as well even though it would turn. Installed back in flywheel housing and moving on to next thing. Thanks for the picture helped in looking at what to expect.

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Next issue I finally got the fuel gauge  glass out to clean. Would anyone have a good clean picture of the paper showing the pointer that is sandwiched between the two pieces of glass? The ring holding what a snap ring and after putting a bit of penetrating oil on the ring it loosened up and out it popped with a bit of help. Or if any one would know where to get on made would be nice too. The paper on it is very fragile and I don't think it will last long once back in. 

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Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)

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The greasi m,ine was very hard. While not locked up, it was almost impossible to turn.

This engine had been out in the woods under a tree for about 35 years and was a mess.

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Mine not that bad but I am glade I took it apart and cleaned it up. At least now it will hopefully be more reliable and spin the boat anchor of a flywheel easier, lol. It dose turn a bit smoother that it did before disassembly and cleaning.

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Hi Brice,  I Ve been fortunate to be given some sheet metal from two door pillars. Some rust on the bottom section but an easy fix.

They have been notched out to fit over the frame runner or so I thought.  The cut edge doesn't look factory  and may have been done

when that car was "uted" (turned into a farm truck) . 

 

how does this compare to the panels on your vehicle?

 

Regards

 

norm

 

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Hi Norm,

Here are some pictures of the pillars between the front and rear door. I may not be in the right area your asking about if not let me know and I will take some more. I have not been doing much on the body been working on drive train and getting it back down on wheels and off jack stands.

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Brice,

Thankyou for the photos.  Great help..   The two pieces came from car that is down to be turned into a delivery truck

 (enclosed van) it was missing rear doors, tub, wood frame..  A story I know well..

 

I have also been given some ...blank.....the bits covering the frame in the door openings .Interestingly they too

have folded over ends of  say  3 mm enough the hold the metal off the  timber on top and the face.

Hugh, has mentioned "spacers" on his original frame a few times, makes more sense now, in lining up the body.

 

Again thanks for taking  time out  for the photos,  appreciated you sharing your journey

 

Regards

 

Norm

 

 

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Finally started some reassembling LOL. Got clutch plate cleaned painted and reinstalled. Also drained old oil from transmission checked gears all looking good. Sprayed down the gears in trans with kerosene to get all the sludge out of the bottom it was not too bad but now has nice clean gear oil in it pored in from top all over the gears. I am using for both trans and the rear-end AMSOil Severe Gear SAE 250.

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Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)

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Transmission is back on and the propeller shaft (drive shaft) is back on as well. Trans took a bit of time to get lined up so that it would go smoothly all the way in but it did with a little help of some colorful adjectives.   

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Brice,

I get a big kick out of looking at these 4-Cylinder parts and pieces.  My son-in-law said the transmission from the D-45 looked like something that came out of a ton and a half truck.  You are doing a great job at getting this car put back together.  Keep up the good work.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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