1926 Hupmobile

[SFCGardner]

I am purchasing a 1926 Hupmobile.  This is my first classic auto.  The car starts and there is no rust but need to know how hard is it going to be to have the seals redone (are there parts available).  It was last restored about 30 years ago and was not maintained properly.  It does have "good bones".  I started the car and it idles great but barely drives (test first, second and reverse).  Any advice would be greatly appreciated

[Leif Holmberg]

How about telling what seals you are asking about to be redone?

Leif in Sweden

[John_S_in_Penna]

6 hours ago, SFCGardner said:

The car starts and there is no rust... 

 

Mr. Gardner, rust isn't usually a problem for these older cars.

Are you confident, rather, that there isn't any (or much) rot in the concealed wood?

I don't know how much you know about these early cars, but

before the mid-1930's, cars typically had a wooden body structure

that was only covered with sheet metal.  A sagging door (one that

doesn't close properly), for instance, is one sign that there's some rotten wood.

 

And please know that your car may be comfortable on small roads

at 35 or 40 m.p.h., but much above that could be a strain on the

car that will harm it.  A survey in 1928 said that most people never

drove above 45 m.p.h., and the cars and the roads were built accordingly.

 

I apologize if I'm telling you things you already know, but if not,

these should make sure you are going into your purchase with your eyes open.

 

Congratulations on your entry into the old car hobby! 

We want you to have an enjoyable experience.

Edited July 26, 2018 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[SFCGardner]

Thanks for the replies.  John, I know very little about classic cars.  My brother is the mechanic in the family and he is on the other coast so no help there.  I know the speed is slower which is fine since I only plan to take it local car shows (no highway).  As far as the wood the car was completely restored around 30 years ago and has been inside every since so the "bones" are good.

Mr Holmberg, there is a leak from the engine (not sure exactly from where) and the rear end leaks which is why I only drove it a short distant to test the clutch and gears.  I am guessing when I think the leaks are from seals.  My guess is the oil pan seal but if I can get the head gasket seal I should have it done also.  I had a friend who works on cars tell me the bearing needs done (fan wobbles).  What I really need to know is getting parts difficult?  I plan to take it to a shop but want to know about the availability of parts so I am not taken advantage of.

Can someone please tell me what the lower switch on the steering wheel does.  I know the top one advances the timing but I have no clue what the lower one does.

[Leif Holmberg]

The lower ”switch” are probebly the same as on Buicks,accelerator level,connected to your foot accelarator pedal? Leif in Sweden

[dalef62]

The lower switch might also be for the lights, Park, Running, Bright.

 

[oily rag]

It may be wise to drop the oil pan, check the bottom end and clean any gunk out.

The rear seal may be a source of the oil leak(s) .

 

[BuicksBuicks]

Yourself not being a "mechanic" is a major consideration. Most owners of antique cars have considerable knowledge of repairs and maintenance; if they don't have the skills, they certainly know a trusted mechanic.  Fixing leaks around the engine oil pan is not a difficult thing to do as a new gasket can be cut from a cork sheet; the same goes for your differential leak. BUT oil leaks at the ends of your rear axles (rear brake drum area) would require possibly very difficult to find seals.  The head gasket?- I wouldn't touch it! Its better to measure the cylinder compression first and look for foam in the oil or radiator; head gaskets may be extremely hard to find.   If you have any problem in understanding what I've written, you could be heading for costly mistake. Don't expect to go to AutoZone for any parts.

[John_S_in_Penna]

10 minutes ago, BuicksBuicks said:

Yourself not being a "mechanic" is a major consideration. Most owners of antique cars have considerable knowledge of repairs and maintenance; if they don't have the skills, they certainly know a trusted mechanic.  

 

Mr. Gardner, don't feel as if you need to be a mechanic.

I know plenty of people who enjoy lots of antique cars

and rely on others.  You probably have a furnace and a 

computer and a television and similarly rely on others

for skills that you yourself may not possess.

 

And no, you don't need to understand technical jargon

in order to enjoy a 1926 Hupmobile.  If I said, "your wood

joist is experiencing compression parallel to the grain

because of the active earth pressure applied to your foundation"--

technical jargon for a building engineer--you wouldn't

hesitate to own a house, would you?

 

Mr. Buick's advice is good, though, because you should

make sure someone around you DOES have the specialized

mechanical knowledge for a 1926 car.  In some parts of the

country, that may be difficult.  The average modern-car

shop would be unqualified.  If you know other owners of

old cars in your area, or have a car club near-by, that is a good

way to find reliable people.

Edited July 26, 2018 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[Akstraw]

Good luck with your new car.  I would suggest you consider joining a local AACA region.  It is a connection not only to activities and events for antique cars, but also to expertise, experience, and recommendations on local shops and sources of help.  I hope you enjoy the hobby as much as I do.

Andrew

[SFCGardner]

Here is the update.  Your advise about the head gasket is the same as the mechanic I asked (good indicator for trust).  He said since I did not see any signs of a leak do not mess with it.  I will have the oil pan done.  The rear leak is from the differential not the brake drum area.  What does concern me is the wobble with the fan blade.  A friend said it was a bearing problem.  While I know what wheel bearing are I am unfamiliar with this bearing so I do not know if this is a simple fix or a complicated one.  My brother said that while it idles fine one of the possible reasons it has no power is the fuel pump may need either cleaned or replaced (actually should have thought of that myself).  Hopefully tomorrow I will know if this mechanic will work on the car.  I do have a backup place that specializes in antique cars but charge more.  

[Hupp36]

Being a 1926  Hupp, it  could be  a 6 Cyl. Model  A Hupp or  a 1926 Model E  8 cyl. These old  cars may  leak oil from  various places. A  little  leak, watch and  service. BIG leak fix  before  you  drive. We have  a great Hupp Club  with  tec. advisors  on  all the  Hupp models produced  We also have a  very  well  stocked  library that all  can  be  copped  for  not  a lot  of  money.  With  the  problems you  state  about the  car  one  of  our  tec.  advisors  could  help you with information for free. Ask  the  guy  that  ones  one. 

[Spinneyhill]

Wobbly fan might mean loose bolts?

[SFCGardner]

Hupp 36 yes it is a straight 6.  

The front leak isn't bad but the rear is.  I drove trucks for the Army so I know the front is more of a keep watch thing but the rear leak has to be addressed.  

[BuicksBuicks]

Fan wobble is very likely worn out water pump bushings. Having virtually no knowledge whatsoever about Hupmobiles, I leave remedial comments to those in the know.  I suspect its a reasonably simple re-packing  of those bushings  so I wouldn't loose sleep over it.

[MochetVelo]

Get an owner's manual and parts list (you can contact the Hupp Club and the AACA LIbrary). You might also post on our Hupmobile Forum here. Just scroll down to see it. You should definitely open things up to check on the gears, etc. The most important things are steering and brakes. Remove wheels and check the brakes. Be sure they aren't oily. Clean & re-pack the wheel bearings and check all lubrication points. Be sure your wheels are not wobbly and the tires are OK. Have fun!

 

Phil