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Trying to unstick a E-49 engine, video part 4


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47 minutes ago, DonMicheletti said:

Did you try prying between the  "ring gear" and bell housing with a prybar to try to turn the engine?  That has worked for me. You do have to be careful that you dont break teeth

 

 

I get a toothache just thinking of doing that.

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 I put some brake fluid in today.

 

I experimented and found out that acetone does not mix with ATF, it just floats on it, so the acetone is doing nothing. The brake fluid mixes with the ATF layer, I think that will do something.

Edited by Morgan Wright (see edit history)
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The best penetrating oil out there is Kroil, that's what I'd use.  Even at that, what is your plan if it does "unstick"?  If it's that bad, then you're probably going to break a piston ring or two getting it unstuck, and if it's corrosion in the cylinders it's just going to grind away at it.

 

Sounds to me like the engine needs to be taken apart, and try to free up one piston at a time, clean cylinders, and so forth.  Only apart will you know what condition the engine is in, I surely wouldn't want to run an engine that has been stuck that badly....

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46 minutes ago, Morgan Wright said:

Why get a heart transplant when it might be indigestion?

 

It's your car, do what you think best, obviously.  If it were a little stuck, I might be more inclined to agree with you, but it sounds like it's a LOT stuck, which might mean it's a bigger problem.

 

I'm not arguing with you, it's just that I'd rather do a little wrench work up front than be replacing broken pieces and sleeving scored cylinders. 

 

Hope it frees up for you!  I'd still recommend investing in some Kroil, it's the absolute best I've ever seen at freeing up corroded parts.

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5 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

Why get a heart transplant when it might be indigestion?

You wouldn't get a heart transplant if it wasn't first determined that was your ailment. Be smart and diagnose your stuck part first. But then it is your car.

Edited by JFranklin (see edit history)
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Here is why I added brake fluid:

 

1. I mixed acetone and ATF in a glass. They do not mix. The acetone sits on top of the ATF so the acetone can't even get to the part being soaked.

 

2. I mixed acetone and brake fluid in a glass. They mix completely and don't separate.

 

3. I mixed ATF and brake fluid in a glass. They do not mix. The ATF floats on the brake fluid.

 

4. I took the results of #1 above, with acetone floating on ATF, which is what I had in the cylinders of my car for 2 days doing nothing, and added brake fluid to it. The brake fluid mixed with the acetone layer, and brought it down because the acetone/brake fluid layer sank and the ATF floated on it. Acetone is lighter than ATF but when its mixed with brake fluid it's heavier.

 

From this, I saw that adding brake fluid would bring the acetone down below the ATF, reversing the layers. Now the acetone/brake fluid mixture is soaking and the ATF sits on top doing nothing.

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Here's plan tap each valve with a hammer ( to be sure they are seated) add some att oil in the cylinders make up a adapter to apply air pressure to each cylinder one at a time air pressure will force oil down and around the piston and all so try to move it down the cylinder . Mike

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That's a great idea.

 

Or I can figure out which cylinders are on the downstroke and add around 100 psi of air pressure to them, and 30 inches of vacuum to the ones on the upstroke.

 

O

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10 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

I just mixed up a batch of 1/3 acetone, 1/3 brake fluid, and 1/3 evaporust. They all mix together and no separation.

 

I'm soaking a rusty chunk of iron now to test it out.

 

 

The acetone/brake fluid/evaporust concoction did not remove any rust. I guess the other two chemicals knocked out the evaporust.

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No amount of vacuum will do anything to increase penetration of atf or any lubricant past the rings and down the cylinder walls. Sure, if you could maintain enormous PRESSURE , the more the better , in the closed cylinders (rocker assemblies removed), it would speed up the penetration. I think time is your best friend. Load up with Kroil , and go do something else for several months or more. Use part of the time to carefully dismantle the rest of the engine. Patience. Good luck  !    -  Carl 

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I tapped the valves lightly with a hammer, about 5 of them were stuck and took about 5 or 10 taps to get loose. They are all loose now. When you tap them they SPROING instead of WHACK

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On 7/22/2018 at 3:20 PM, pont35cpe said:

Sounds like you need some Marvel Mystery Oil..

 

Marvel Mystery Oil was anaylized in the 70's during a lawsuit and found to be 60% mineral oil, 39% stoddard solvent, and 1% lard.

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1 hour ago, Morgan Wright said:

 

Marvel Mystery Oil was anaylized in the 70's during a lawsuit and found to be 60% mineral oil, 39% stoddard solvent, and 1% lard.

Maybe that`s "The Mystery of it"..

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15 minutes ago, Morgan Wright said:

Yeah. Somebody put MM Oil in his airplane engine and it failed, and he sued MMO.

 

Do you know who won ?  That would be an interesting read.  -  Carl 

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1 hour ago, Morgan Wright said:

 

Sounds to me like more of a murder mystery than a plane crash. 

 

Someone added 6 times the amount of Marvel Mystery Lard, uh, Oil, to one of the tanks (1 gallon in 18 instead of 1 gallon in 100).  Trying to sabotage the airplane, kill the pilot, mad at the owner of the airplane......

 

It's a true mystery....

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Ok now you have a closed cylinder and you apply air pressure and the only way the piston can go is down . I saw a farm guy hook his hydraulic pressure hose from his tractor up and after the second cylinder he put it on she turned. Patience me lad.  Mike

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Hook up a hydraulic pressure hose from a tractor to two cylinders, one of which is on the downstroke, and one on the upstroke. Alternate back and forth between the two cylinders to make the engine change directions. That 1800 psi ought to get her unstuck.

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1 hour ago, Morgan Wright said:

Hook up a hydraulic pressure hose from a tractor to two cylinders, one of which is on the downstroke, and one on the upstroke. Alternate back and forth between the two cylinders to make the engine change directions. That 1800 psi ought to get her unstuck.

Why go to that trouble when it would be easy to determine the point of sticking and remedy that? Are you being serious about this or just having fun with us? Is your engine even stuck? Seriously.

Edited by JFranklin (see edit history)
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47 minutes ago, JFranklin said:

Why go to that trouble when it would be easy to determine the point of sticking and remedy that? Are you being serious about this or just having fun with us? Is your engine even stuck? Seriously.

 

 

The point of sticking is the pistons, determined long ago. So now I should just remedy that, or else I am just joking with you, maybe the engine isn't even stuck? Right. Just remedy that, sure. And while I'm at it, let me cure cancer and get all the communists out of the mainstream media. Easy peesy.

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I went back through all the posts and only found where you said "probably pistons" I was saying why not pull the caps and see which one is stuck? You can then also see if the crank will turn some and plastigauge and set the bearings. I used to have to fix other peoples messes and it is much easier to do thing properly at first try. 

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2 hours ago, JFranklin said:

I went back through all the posts and only found where you said "probably pistons" I was saying why not pull the caps and see which one is stuck? You can then also see if the crank will turn some and plastigauge and set the bearings. I used to have to fix other peoples messes and it is much easier to do thing properly at first try. 

 

I may be wrong, but if all the pistons are stuck and you remove all the caps, the crank still won't turn. It would be nice if only one piston is stuck, but it would also be nice if the IRS said "We have enough money now, no more taxes"

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