nenad Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Hello people, I bought 1924 Buick touring project with convertible top ( which is missing ) and now try to restore top . I can not find how top is fixed with two bow from side of front windshield. Is there any laches or...??? In attached photo in red circle is position of fixation for what I am lloking. I bought thic Buick project in USA 2 years ago and imported to Croatia ( Europe - probably you never hear for my country Croatia) and here is no chance to find any answer on my problem. This is first 1924 Buick in my country. Please help with photo of this part if possible ( and we will make this parts here )- or if somebody have this used parts for sale Thanks in advance Nenad 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Nenand, What model is your Touring car? Do you have any photos of your car and the area that shows what you are missing? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Hello Hubert, Thanks for prompt replay. My Buick was 1924 4 door touringm but I converted him to roadster. I bought BUick without top bows/frame and the friend from USA send me top frame from which he told me that is from Buick. I restored this how I touth is OK, but now do not now how to fix it to front windshield. I will attached few photos of the Buick before and now and hope it will be not to big. Try to make them smaller. If it will not work I can send with email . My email is : nenad@laredoute.hr I upload few photos : first 2 is from Savannah/GA, before transport, other is from proces of restoring ( I have hunderds from this proces ) and last one is my target. Sorry because photos is to big , but I do not know to make them smaller Thanks for helping, because without help from from you - Buick fan, I will never finish my project. Nenad PS: If you be so kind, I will ask you few more question which will help me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Nenand, This is what the latches should look like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Hello Hubert, THANK YOU. If you visit Croatia any time in your futur life- you will be my quest. I have nice hotel here. Thanks one more time Nenad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 (edited) Can you show us what the top of your windshield support looks like at the left and right, outer, top? It should be a blunt pin shape pointing upward that goes into the hole on the 169708 and 169709 brackets. These brackets are affixed to the front header bow on the inside. 43919 thumb screw is part of the 169708 / 169709 and is shown in case it was lost and needed to be ordered/replaced. Do I have this correct Hubert? Edited October 25, 2017 by Brian_Heil (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 nenad, I have the two thumb screws (part #43919) that you are needing. Here is a photo of them. I think these might be the only two loose ones in captivity. PM me if you might be interested in them. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 It should be interesting how Nenad will address the top construction as the body appears to be a cut down sport coupe. Although the body bead matches the open cars. This may be a later body. The roadsters had a gradual curve around the body where the top is attached. Photos of a 1924-44. Also a 1924-54 Sport Roadster on the 2016 VMCCA Nickel tour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Since this was not an original build, I made a laminated wood bow for the front header on my 24 cut-down pickup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 Hello Hubert ( Hugh ), Brian, Terry, Larry DiBarry and Mark, Thanks to your kindness I solwe problem with top fixation for my Buick. My people here are working of making exact coppy of original latches. If anybody of you need anything from teritory of former Yugoslavia, please let me know. Beat regards Nenad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 1 hour ago, nenad said: Hello Hubert ( Hugh ), Brian, Terry, Larry DiBarry and Mark, Thanks to your kindness I solwe problem with top fixation for my Buick. My people here are working of making exact coppy of original latches. If anybody of you need anything from teritory of former Yugoslavia, please let me know. Beat regards Nenad We all enjoy good pictures! Send/post more of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Hello to all of you, Last time you help me with top latches for my Buick. Now I have again problem. As I mention I replaced original engine with 1926 Buick Standard six model 207 cu inc. I must replace / made new main and rod bearings and it is Babbitt work - the method of removing and replacing worn bearing material on main bearings and connecting rod bearings. I have good people here who are dooing that, but they ask me for standard size of main and rod bearings. I ordered and today receive 1926 Buick Standard six reference book form USA and hoping that the measurament will bw inside, but this is book of general information/referance, with no detail about what I need. So, hope somebody of you will have this info and also standard tolerance for main and rod bearings whick Buick propose. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Also, I am old school and do not know how to instal photo insted of letter N under my name and note that I am Junior member Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herm111 Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 On 11/2/2017 at 10:23 AM, nenad said: Hello to all of you, Last time you help me with top latches for my Buick. Now I have again problem. As I mention I replaced original engine with 1926 Buick Standard six model 207 cu inc. I must replace / made new main and rod bearings and it is Babbitt work - the method of removing and replacing worn bearing material on main bearings and connecting rod bearings. I have good people here who are dooing that, but they ask me for standard size of main and rod bearings. I ordered and today receive 1926 Buick Standard six reference book form USA and hoping that the measurament will bw inside, but this is book of general information/referance, with no detail about what I need. So, hope somebody of you will have this info and also standard tolerance for main and rod bearings whick Buick propose. Thanks in advance. You don't need the main or rod size, unless you have N.O.S. bearings, other wise just grind to the smallest size you can, and leave as much meat on the crank as you can. Even the stroke can be figured out by a competent crank man. Herm. Seagrave rods 1915 Buick Mains 1930 Buick Rods Seagrave 1936 V-12 Pierace Arrow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 Beautiful work shown here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted November 6, 2017 Author Share Posted November 6, 2017 Hello Herm, Thanks. We come to same conclusion here and allready griding cam on best size. After we finish we will measure and order new rod bearing from expert for babbitt work. Mostly, we are interesting about proposal tolerance on rod and main bearing . Enyway, I will post result and hope that will have final result same as yours on photo. Herm and other folks, have a nice evening ! Your sugestion is very important for me and my tim here. Best Regards Nenad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 The rod bearings should be 0.002 clearance. I believe that the mains should be the same. Quot from the 1925 master shop manual: The end thrust of the crankshaft is taken by the rear center main bearing. This bearing should have a total end clearance of not less than 0.007 inches and not more than .020 inches. Other main bearings should have from 1/64 in. to 1/32 in clearance at each end. Run out of the crank shaft should not be greater than .002 inch. The 1927 shop manual gives the same information and specifies that it is for all series cars so you should be the same on your 1926 engine. I also found my written note that the clearance on the main bearings is .002. If anyone knows that I am wrong, please jump in and correct me. Fred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 Hello Fred, Thank you so much for info about clearance. Now, after griding crankshaft on same measure on all position, I can give your info about clearance to man who will do babbitt work on bearings. Will inform you about progres. Thanks one more time Regards Nenad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 nenad,just remember that Fred are talking about "inch" and we have mm.here in most places in Europa. Leif Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 Hello Leif, Yes, I know. But , Thanks anyway. Best Regards Nenad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herm111 Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 On 11/6/2017 at 4:30 PM, Fred Rawling said: The rod bearings should be 0.002 clearance. I believe that the mains should be the same. Quot from the 1925 master shop manual: The end thrust of the crankshaft is taken by the rear center main bearing. This bearing should have a total end clearance of not less than 0.007 inches and not more than .020 inches. Other main bearings should have from 1/64 in. to 1/32 in clearance at each end. Run out of the crank shaft should not be greater than .002 inch. The 1927 shop manual gives the same information and specifies that it is for all series cars so you should be the same on your 1926 engine. I also found my written note that the clearance on the main bearings is .002. If anyone knows that I am wrong, please jump in and correct me. Fred Mr. Fred, I haven't seen what the shaft size is here, but as far as bearing clearance. I am going to use a Shaft size of 2" inches. The bearing clearance should be a minimum of .002-00 thousandths, and a Maximum of .000-50 , 1/2 thousandths more. That even goes for a 12" shaft, clearance being .012, to .012-50. The reason for this is heat expansion. A 2" crank, when hot will have swollen, almost, .002 thousandths, where will the oil be? With a thousand miles on the bearings, or the more top end speed that is used, the bearing will probably be around .003-50 thousandths for clearance, when cold. So when the crank is up to Temp., you should have around .001-50, to .002-00 thousandths clearance, when the crank is hot. Side clearance on rods can be from .003 at the smallest, to .012 at the extreme, but .004 to .006 being Ideal. End clearance on crank thrust, we set from .003-50 to .004-00 thousandths. any thing over .006, or .007 thousandths should be fixed as with clutch pressure, it will beat it to death. Thanks, Mr. Fred Herm. KohnkeRebabbittingService.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 Hello Herm, Thanks for real precize info. I am waiting finish of griding crankshaft and than I will have start measure for babbitting new bearings. Because I did not found clearince info until Fred and you give me this , we do investigation and colect info from "old guy school" - mehanics who allready repair engine from period as mine is. Conclusion is same as yours. Here in Croatia is few of good small companx who do babbit work on bearings, but I found one real good in Serbia and will give him this job. Plan is, after griding crankshaft , to take piston with connecting rod and block of the engone to this workshop and they will make new piston rings ( they make new piston up to 3 feet in diameter ) , babbit new rod bearings ( becuse we wound that main bearings are good and in starndard celarince which you Herm sent ), and instal new piston liner ( they also produce piston liner with centrifugal tehnic to have composit structure up to 3 feet long ). All of this as main job, beside normal everhaul job as cleaning valve and valve seats, repair oil pump , timmimg... should give good result. I will post proces of the all job. THANK YOU. Have a nice weekend. Nenad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) Happy New Year , Nenad ! I am curious about your progress in re-babbitting ? Thank you , - Carl Edited January 23, 2018 by C Carl Spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 HELLO Carl and all others, Carl, thanks for wishes and like to wish you same. Be healthy and happy all the year !!! Concerning re-babbitting - it is done. I take block of engine, piston and tie rod to Serrbia ( one of former -Ex Jugoslavia country) where I found expert for re-babbitting and other job. So, he bore engine block to proper dimension and put new cylinder liner, new main bearings, make new piston rings and more important new camshaft bearings. Picture speaks all. This master is possible to make piston and ring up to size of 900 mm ( 35" ) in diameter !!! In the meantime I finished job with new leder seats. Bigist problem now is to find whitewall tires in size 32x4 here in Europe, because od shipping cost from USA. If anybody know for resor in Europe, please let me know. It could be old stock too. If anybody need anything from here, please let me know. Best Regards Nenad 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nenad Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 And here is few picture of new leather seats for my 1924 Buick Roadster ( Front seat, rumble seat and dors panels.) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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