dibarlaw Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Glad you got home safely from Hershey. We did have a great time. Thanks for the info. This is what I can forward to Reeve's. After you left the show field I talked with John Fesser as he had the 1928 in HPOF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_B Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Thanks Larry. I'm sorry to have missed John Fesser and his '28. It's a great car. Love those beefy tires. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 On 10/5/2017 at 4:09 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: The wrist pin bolts on my car are only held with a lock washer. Larry mentioned that he has known someone where one of these came loose. I would like to wire mine. I have ordered 6. I also plan to get 6 grade 8 lock washers to replace the existing lock washers as one I have is already missing a piece. AN5H-12A 5/16-24 x 0.813 Grip Airframe Bolt, 1.34 UHL, Drilled Head $0.79 https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/reviewcart.asp Hugh I am one of those persons that had the bolt break and I lost a cylinder and piston when the top of the rod broke on a tour. Needed to sleeve the cylinder and replace the rod. The good and bad of that experience is that I ended up putting aluminum pistons in the engine since it was out. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryVan Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 As I just wrote in another posting, split lock washers have no place inside an engine. The above photo is exactly why. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsan Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Jerry Buick thought one needed 6 of 108579 5/16" lock washers to make the engine operate correctly but I take your point. Times have changed and the evidence is clearly against split 'lock' washers. Your suggestions for an alternative for this application? 1) Just the bolt? -2) bolt + loctite? -3) bolt + internal or external toothed lock washer? -4) bolt + above lock washer + loctite? -5) bolt + lock wire ( Hugh has a lot more patience than I do !!!) I'm thinking 3) as the Loctite would be a bit of overkill . If your post had more info, could you provide a link? Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconriley Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 The 1928 Riley Nine engine I have nearly finished assembling has only loctite. I have used it before on engine assemblies amongst other things and believe it is superior to mechanical means such as lock washers etc. I recommend to just go with loctite, no need for the washer, which could fail like you have experienced. Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 What great responses! Thank you. It's not normal anymore to see broken lock washers given current manufacturing controls. I always see this kind of broken stuff on vintage fasteners, but I think rare on modern parts. Especially if buying graded fasteners. Tolerances and metallurgy are vastly improved since 1925. Since I bought the exact size drilled bolts as were in the engine originally, I may send them back and get a shorter bolt as I am leaning toward leaving the lock washer out. If I stay with this length I may just use an improved lock washer. I made the same mistake as Brad did, and buggered up the threads on most bolts with the wrist pins being slightly misaligned and that flattened the threads on removing the original bolts. Brad knows me too well now. He is correct on my plan to do #5. I have had some loctite failures where the loctite never dried. I can't afford a failure here. Not a rocket scientist, but what would NASA do? Probably all of the above, and wear a hair net in the process to prevent contamination. Hugh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 3 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said: It's not normal anymore to see broken lock washers given current manufacturing controls. I always see this kind of broken stuff on vintage fasteners, but I think rare on modern parts. Especially if buying graded fasteners. Tolerances and metallurgy are vastly improved since 1925. Hugh I agree with this. A lot of original lockwashers break when I remove them from the Buick, they snap right in half. New hardware, I have never experienced it. Loctite is amazing, but always do a test piece on the bench from the same batch you use on the car, to make sure it cures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconriley Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 I don't know if your rods do fit or not but in cases where conrods use pinch bolts and when the rod doesn't fit down the bore, I fit the rod to the piston and bolt it together, then fit the piston from the bottom leaving the task of fitting the rings till last. A lot easier in my opinion than trying to fit the piston to a rod in the block. Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I did not have time to read the whole post so if you still need the pipe from the rocker to the heat, I have one off a 28 Master that looks like it is the same as yours. It is yours if you want to risk the postage. fred.rawling@live.com 562 644-4670 are the surest ways to contact me. Fred 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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