Beemon Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 My girlfriend stopped looking for hers a while back, but I know where they are. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 1 hour ago, MrEarl said: Like holy moly how? Like holy moly that's too much or holy moly great deal for something you probably won't have to ever worry about again? Holy moly in that unless shipping is free, by the time you're done, you're in almost $700 anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 Got all the heater controls reinstalled. Dash cleaned, glove box patched and ducts fixed. Just need to fix the clock. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 Is that a round brake knob. A lot of 54s had 55 style brake knobs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 1 minute ago, MrEarl said: Is that a round brake knob. A lot of 54s had 55 style brake knobs. Indeed it is. I thought it had paint on it so I removed it for cleaning. Turned out to be really old wax. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 22, 2017 Share Posted April 22, 2017 4 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: Holy moly in that unless shipping is free, by the time you're done, you're in almost $700 anyway Good insurance ain't cheap. That's pretty much wholesale, other companies buy from them then turn around and sell for 7-800. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 1 hour ago, MrEarl said: Good insurance ain't cheap. That's pretty much wholesale, other companies buy from them then turn around and sell for 7-800. Wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said: Wow Yeah, I took a good woopin' on my '39 spec rad. The guy really had me. Wouldnt even consider a repair. Oh no, you meed a recore! Save my original stuff, says I! Its 39 only. Come to pick up. Oh, the scapper just left with that stuff sorry, as he pockets some more cash! 595.oo to recore your radiator Was it good for you? A little late to complain. Talk about having ya by the short hairs Buyer beware with radiator repair guys these daze! New bolt in? Doesnt seem so costly to me now. Edited April 23, 2017 by Guest (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 Clock is almost done, moved on to stripping paint off the roof..... as much was flaking off, I thought this would be easier. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 Radiator shop called. Not repairable. He said the core material is too brittle. He's going to get me a price on a core (non-original style) tomorrow. In the meantime I've asked 2carb40 to hook me up with the used radiator he knows of. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 7 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: Radiator shop called. Not repairable. He said the core material is too brittle. He's going to get me a price on a core (non-original style) tomorrow. In the meantime I've asked 2carb40 to hook me up with the used radiator he knows of. Probably best to get the radiator from the shop now before they start adding service $$$. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 Lol. I'm not worried about that. This is a small local shop that has been around forever. Ive used them for the past 3 year for all my towing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 15 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: Radiator shop called. Not repairable. He said the core material is too brittle. He's going to get me a price on a core (non-original style) tomorrow. In the meantime I've asked 2carb40 to hook me up with the used radiator he knows of. Funny how some radiators held up and others did not. My '50, from So Carolina, was the same. Had to install new core. I just acquired one from a '50 Roadmaster and had it rodded out . Core is in "great shape" per the shop doing the work. Must have been the water. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 2 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: Funny how some radiators held up and others did not. My '50, from So Carolina, was the same. Had to install new core. I just acquired one from a '50 Roadmaster and had it rodded out . Core is in "great shape" per the shop doing the work. Must have been the water. Ben Depends on how long folks left the antifreeze unchanged. It gets acidic over a period of time. The faithful drain and fillers had long lived radiators. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 When you get your radiator ready to fill and if you have hard water in your area,use distilled water to mix,it will give you a lot less trouble in the future.Up here in the northeast we have very hard water so I always use distilled and add just a table spoon of vegetable oil,really keeps it from build up inside.Looks like you're making progress. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 purchase the 50/50 mix. Drive happy. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 11 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: purchase the 50/50 mix. Drive happy. ? I refuse to pay for water in a bottle....for me or the car. Lol. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 Continued to strip paint, the drip edges have zero rust.... Always wear your PPE! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 I agree on not paying for water until it comes to distilled for my old girls.the ones with tires that is.Nice tee shirt! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 5 minutes ago, RivRider said: I agree on not paying for water until it comes to distilled for my old girls.the ones with tires that is.Nice tee shirt! Lol. Sorry if the tee is too much. One of my thrift store buys for working on cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 No, I love it,wish I had it this weekend because of a couple old broads hitting on me at our bar this weekend that didn't want no for an answer! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Well water is loaded with minerals. No well water for me. Distilled, purified, deionized or city tap water is fine. The only deal with 50/50 mix is you need twice as much. But, it is mixed correctly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 29, 2017 Author Share Posted April 29, 2017 This arrived.... Will install this weekend, and finish stripping paint 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 6:08 PM, avgwarhawk said: city tap water is fine. Gotta keep that old Buick's teeth white! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 29, 2017 Author Share Posted April 29, 2017 One last little spot on the roof.... With a high of almost 90, I'm taking frequent breaks though. Drinking my tap water.....LOL 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 8 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said: One last little spot on the roof.... With a high of almost 90, I'm taking frequent breaks though. Drinking my tap water.....LOL You got fans? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 29, 2017 Author Share Posted April 29, 2017 Yea i have a few fans. Got all the paint of the roof. Got the car up on jack stands, tomorrow I'll start meddling with brakes. Ive got the rebuilt MC, ordered new rubber lines. Will inspect wheel cylinders tomorrow. What shoes does anyone prefer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) You should hit that bare metal with a prep acid for body work. That "New Metal" Acid will go on easy and etch the metal plus dry to a finish which will offer some temporary protection from flash rusting. Also NAPA has a spray paint product for lightly rusted metal that coats the rust and converts it to a black finish that seals the bare metal from flash rusting. Otherwise you will be sanding from now till forever! Edited April 30, 2017 by JohnD1956 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) Got the clock back in. Pulled the steering wheel to swap it out... had to make my own puller. Any one know how to remove the cam on the back of the steering wheel that turns off the turn signals? Edited May 1, 2017 by wndsofchng06 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 So 705 to recore the radiator with a newer core type, 800 for original style core. Still waiting to hear aboutthe used radiator, although shipping will be high and who knows how long it'll last. ? I'm going to need to make hard choices and if this 54 is going to see the road again, the 55 and all the auxiliary bits might need to hit the road. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 On April 22, 2017 at 8:23 AM, MrEarl said: http://classicfordradiator.com/1954-56-NEW-Buick-3-row-radiator-regular-core-design-3131176.aspx Lookin better..... not sure how to get that ring off. Maybe heat and cold. So how is the rest of the paint turning out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Is there no other radiator shop in the area? I really think they're charging you because it's for a 54 Buick. I mean for that price, you might as well buy one new. Where's it leaking from? The picture you shared looks like the overflow tube is broken, and nothing else? or is it leaking from the core? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Core is leaking. Gotten two local quotes. The more I research, the more I see this price is average. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Where is it leaking, do you know? You can buy various sized rubber plugs to stick in the holes, then submerge in a pool of water and hit it with compressed air to see where it's coming out of. Just make sure it's like 7psi. Then bust out your soldering gun and patch it up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Well the one shop was all ready to repair it until it got there. They said it was too brittle. I don't think either shop is out for the money so to speak as both recommended going to buy a new one online over recore! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 9 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said: Core is leaking. Gotten two local quotes. The more I research, the more I see this price is average. Price is double my local price. New radiator for the same price as a repair=no brainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 14 minutes ago, old-tank said: Price is double my local price. New radiator for the same price as a repair=no brainer. Well yes and I'm at the point in my life I don't want to "patch" anything. Inevitably it will break at the most inconvenient time and I'll be forced to burn the whole d*mn thing to the ground! I don't have the patience I used to and have so much else going on, I just want a driver and then I'll be done. I enjoy the hunt, the driving, the friends, but not the rebuild/repair part of the hobby. Anyhow, I won't get back into that on here. Once I get some other stuff sold, I'll fork out for the new radiator and move on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) Maybe try calling outside your area to find places that won't charge an arm and a leg for a recore, and then cut the losses with some $20 worth of gas? Or maybe send it to someone in the club that can take it to a shop? Just options I suppose. Regrettably I had dropped a socket into the fan shroud a while back and didn't realize until it hit the fan and punctured the radiator. The solder job has been holding since last June. No more than 30 seconds, just heat up the gun, stick it over the puncture with solder and then you're done. I'm pretty sure it's a special kind of solder, though. I took it to the rad shop for the fix, and I was $45 out of pocket for it. Couldn't believe it was just a butane torch and solder... Copper radiators are always brittle, that's why they really can't take no more than 7 psi. Aluminum is weaker, but the construction makes them stronger, hence the usual 14 psi caps. Edited May 2, 2017 by Beemon (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: Well yes and I'm at the point in my life I don't want to "patch" anything. Inevitably it will break at the most inconvenient time and I'll be forced to burn the whole d*mn thing to the ground! I don't have the patience I used to and have so much else going on, I just want a driver and then I'll be done. I enjoy the hunt, the driving, the friends, but not the rebuild/repair part of the hobby. Anyhow, I won't get back into that on here. Once I get some other stuff sold, I'll fork out for the new radiator and move on. Good thinking sir. I have had radiators repaired back in the day only to have them "blow" like a steam whistle on a south bound 2-6-2 pulling 50 cars. One time a repaired radiator blew so badly it completely burnt two valves on the driver side head of a 231 V6 found in my 1978 Buick Regal coupe. Get the new radiator when money allows. Drive cool. Drive with confidence. Drive a Buick. Drive happy. Edited May 2, 2017 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 On 4/30/2017 at 3:28 PM, wndsofchng06 said: Got the clock back in. Pulled the steering wheel to swap it out... had to make my own puller. Any one know how to remove the cam on the back of the steering wheel that turns off the turn signals? Hmmm. Spot welds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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