NC-car-guy

1954 century sedan. GA to NC

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No, I love it,wish I had it this weekend because of a couple old broads hitting on me at our bar this weekend that didn't want no for an answer!

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Well water is loaded with minerals. No well water for me. Distilled, purified, deionized or city tap water is fine. The only deal with 50/50 mix is you need twice as much. But, it is mixed correctly.

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On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 6:08 PM, avgwarhawk said:

 city tap water is fine.

 

Gotta keep that old Buick's teeth white!

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One last little spot on the roof....20170429_140357.thumb.jpg.1489d5f0597aa6c441b51f6e47d3fce8.jpg

With a high of almost 90, I'm taking frequent breaks though. Drinking my tap water.....LOL

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8 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

One last little spot on the roof....20170429_140357.thumb.jpg.1489d5f0597aa6c441b51f6e47d3fce8.jpg

With a high of almost 90, I'm taking frequent breaks though. Drinking my tap water.....LOL

 

You got fans?

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Yea i have a few fans.  Got all the paint of the roof. Got the car up on jack stands, tomorrow I'll start meddling with brakes.  Ive got the rebuilt MC, ordered new rubber lines.  Will inspect wheel cylinders tomorrow.  What shoes does anyone prefer?

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You should hit that bare metal with a prep acid for body work.  That "New Metal" Acid will go on easy and etch the metal plus dry to a finish which will offer some temporary protection from flash rusting.  Also NAPA has a spray paint product for lightly rusted metal that coats the rust and converts it to a black finish that seals the bare metal from flash rusting. Otherwise you will be sanding from now till forever!

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
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Got the clock back in.

20170430_152129.thumb.jpg.50d8bf902a62737c83d243e66a21d144.jpg

Pulled the steering wheel to swap it out...  had to make my own puller.

20170430_151822.thumb.jpg.6806bb5712866a4c63b0a5f3fd61488f.jpg

 

Any one know how to remove the cam on the back of the steering wheel that turns off the turn signals?

 

20170430_152241.thumb.jpg.43a1436151c27ef78eef5c178403a3e9.jpg

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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So 705 to recore the radiator with a newer core type,  800 for original style core.  Still waiting to hear aboutthe used radiator, although shipping will be high and who knows how long it'll last. ? I'm going to need to make hard choices and if this 54 is going to see the road again,  the 55 and all the auxiliary bits might need to hit the road. 

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Is there no other radiator shop in the area? I really think they're charging you because it's for a 54 Buick. I mean for that price, you might as well buy one new. Where's it leaking from? The picture you shared looks like the overflow tube is broken, and nothing else? or is it leaking from the core?

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Core is leaking. Gotten two local quotes.  The more I research, the more I see this price is average.

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Where is it leaking, do you know? You can buy various sized rubber plugs to stick in the holes, then submerge in a pool of water and hit it with compressed air to see where it's coming out of. Just make sure it's like 7psi. Then bust out your soldering gun and patch it up.

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Well the one shop was all ready to repair it until it got there. They said it was too brittle.   I don't think either shop is out for the money so to speak as both recommended going to buy a new one online over recore!

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9 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Core is leaking. Gotten two local quotes.  The more I research, the more I see this price is average.

Price is double my local price.  New radiator for the same price as a repair=no brainer.

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14 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Price is double my local price.  New radiator for the same price as a repair=no brainer.

Well yes and I'm at the point in my life I don't want to "patch" anything.  Inevitably it will break at the most inconvenient time and I'll be forced to burn the whole d*mn thing to the ground!  :rolleyes:  I don't have the patience I used to and have so much else going on,  I just want a driver and then I'll be done.  I enjoy the hunt, the driving, the friends, but not the rebuild/repair part of the hobby.  Anyhow, I won't get back into that on here.  Once I get some other stuff sold, I'll fork out for the new radiator and move on.

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Maybe try calling outside your area to find places that won't charge an arm and a leg for a recore, and then cut the losses with some $20 worth of gas? Or maybe send it to someone in the club that can take it to a shop? Just options I suppose. Regrettably I had dropped a socket into the fan shroud a while back and didn't realize until it hit the fan and punctured the radiator. The solder job has been holding since last June. No more than 30 seconds, just heat up the gun, stick it over the puncture with solder and then you're done. I'm pretty sure it's a special kind of solder, though. I took it to the rad shop for the fix, and I was $45 out of pocket for it. Couldn't believe it was just a butane torch and solder... Copper radiators are always brittle, that's why they really can't take no more than 7 psi. Aluminum is weaker, but the construction makes them stronger, hence the usual 14 psi caps.

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)

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4 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Well yes and I'm at the point in my life I don't want to "patch" anything.  Inevitably it will break at the most inconvenient time and I'll be forced to burn the whole d*mn thing to the ground!  :rolleyes:  I don't have the patience I used to and have so much else going on,  I just want a driver and then I'll be done.  I enjoy the hunt, the driving, the friends, but not the rebuild/repair part of the hobby.  Anyhow, I won't get back into that on here.  Once I get some other stuff sold, I'll fork out for the new radiator and move on.

 

Good thinking sir.  I have had radiators repaired back in the day only to have them "blow" like a steam whistle on a south bound 2-6-2 pulling 50 cars.  One time a repaired radiator blew so badly it completely burnt two valves on the driver side head of a 231 V6 found in my 1978 Buick Regal coupe.   Get the new radiator when money allows.  Drive cool. Drive with confidence.  Drive a Buick.  Drive happy.  

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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On 4/30/2017 at 3:28 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

Got the clock back in.

20170430_152129.thumb.jpg.50d8bf902a62737c83d243e66a21d144.jpg

Pulled the steering wheel to swap it out...  had to make my own puller.

20170430_151822.thumb.jpg.6806bb5712866a4c63b0a5f3fd61488f.jpg

 

Any one know how to remove the cam on the back of the steering wheel that turns off the turn signals?

 

20170430_152241.thumb.jpg.43a1436151c27ef78eef5c178403a3e9.jpg

Hmmm. Spot welds:

20170502_192321.thumb.jpg.6abf89afb5fd1b18b57ba55abeccea99.jpg

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I will be using my dremel tonight to cut the welds.  Then I am bringing the piece to a friend who is a machinist by trade.  He's going to generate a drawing and we'll make an additional part. (I cannot make multiples to sell as I am not allowed to use the machines at work for personal gains).  However, I will gladly free share the drawing, then if anyone ever needs to make one of these things again (I doubt that will happen, but if) they can.

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versus making a new part, could you not instead dremel cut the 3 flexible spokes off the 4 inch round plate and swap that plate including the splined piece and cam.  I have seen the tack welds of these spokes to the plate break before and be repaired by tack welding back on. Just a thought.

Is this the steering wheel I sold you? if so please know I never realized it was missing that cam and am sorry for all the trouble it is causing. One has to wonder how the heck it went missing in the first place.

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8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

versus making a new part, could you not instead dremel cut the 3 flexible spokes off the 4 inch round plate and swap that plate including the splined piece and cam.  I have seen the tack welds of these spokes to the plate break before and be repaired by tack welding back on. Just a thought.

Is this the steering wheel I sold you? if so please know I never realized it was missing that cam and am sorry for all the trouble it is causing. One has to wonder how the heck it went missing in the first place.

Sh*t happens.   We all miss things.  I do wonder how the piece got gone, especially on an otherwise stellar steering wheel.  I didn't even think about cutting the spokes loose and swapping the hubs....  interesting idea, would allow me to use the nicer chrome trim ring also.  I'll evaluate and report back, probably tomorrow as I have meetings until 8pm tonight.

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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30 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Sh*t happens.   We all miss things.  I do wonder how the piece got gone, especially on an otherwise stellar steering wheel.  I didn't even think about cutting the spokes loose and swapping the hubs....  interesting idea, would allow me to use the nicer chrome trim ring also.  I'll evaluate and report back, probably tomorrow as I have meeting until 8pm tonight.

 

Well this could turn out just splendid!  

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New riveted wagner shoes came today:

20170506_131058.thumb.jpg.2b71a0df8afd34e578a1bae846a278d7.jpg

Also finally got this cam off the wheel;

20170506_130827.thumb.jpg.79e800a8f04dd08b7e11478a38f2fc8a.jpg20170506_130842.thumb.jpg.0de96b8ddf109352fe7b08146f74e647.jpg

 

I'll weld up the cuts, clean it up, have it copied, and move on.

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