jpage Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 I have 2 questions. Whats the easiest and most accurate way to test and original oil pressure gauge from a '36 Dodge to check function? Also, how does one prime the oil pump prior to startup on a dry engine for the flathead 6. Thanks for any info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 I'm interested in the oil priming question, too, but apparently no one else is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 Yeah, I thought that with all the Chrysler 6's on the forum someone would surely know how to prime the pump. Maybe you pull the distributor and pour oil in the shaft opening. Don't know! You'd think that someone might have tested an oil gauge in the past too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Push the starter for a few seconds with the ignition turned off? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 That's what I thinking, but I have this nightmare where I'm cranking away and still no oil pressure, and suddenly the bottom end of my engine falls through my oil pan. Better to crank with the plugs out? Less stress on the motor/starter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I thought there was a way to remove the distributor, get a shaft in a drill and spin the oil pump to prime the oil galleries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) Open one of oil journal plugs ,adapt fitting ,use suction gun to introduce a couple tubes of oil . You'll see gage move if forced enough and lube most of engine . It should get you filled back to pump check or gears setting up a prime . I use plug above pressure relief nut . Edited August 17, 2016 by ArticiferTom spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I have a 3/8 shaft fits on drill with standard drive on end , primes to 20 psi, prior to installing Distributor, I have a standard gage I test with a dead weight tester, picky-back in system during initial run, or when adjusting pressure relief! If external fitter is installed make sure to fill before installing cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) 2 hours ago, Taylormade said: That's what I thinking, but I have this nightmare where I'm cranking away and still no oil pressure, and suddenly the bottom end of my engine falls through my oil pan. Better to crank with the plugs out? Less stress on the motor/starter? At cranking speed you might not see much pressure but the oil should be being pumped around. I can't be bothered with removing the plugs, just crank for say 10 seconds (which is half a lifetime while it is happening) and you should be OK. Just use an oil with a low first number (before the W) for low apparent viscosity at startup. I have seen a "run to destruction" test on a Holden 6 cylinder motor. They took out the oil and sold tickets for a guess. It lasted c. 30 mins at full throttle before slowing and seizing. So when your engine was assembled, it was lubricated with assembly lube which should last well past the time required to get the oil around. I have started a Toyota Corona 2 L after sitting for three months or so. Boy did it rattle. But after only 4 or 5 seconds it quietened down. To test a gauge, can you put in a T at the gauge off-take on the engine and put a known good gauge on at the same time? Edited August 17, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 FWIW, I've had to do this a couple of times. First was when I did a "shade tree" overhaul on the engine back in the 1970s. Second was when I got the car back together after a professional rebuild of the engine that was part of a frame off restoration. Each time I removed the spark plugs to reduce the load on the starter and engine bearings, then cranked the engine in short (5 to 10 second bursts to keep from overheating the starter) until I saw the oil pressure gauge move. First time, back in the 1970s was easy. Second time, after the restoration it took me several days as pressure did not show. After removing the pump and checking it, removing the pan and inspecting the plumbing and pick up, etc. I found that the metal tube from the firewall to the gauge, which I had not replaced, had clogged up and the gauge simply was not getting pressure even though the engine was. Which brings up an answer to the second part of the original set of questions. Either connect a known good gauge to the block fitting where the oil pressure gauge line attaches and check the pressure there. Or pull one any one of the plugs along the main oil gallery (the other plugged holes along the same level as where the dash oil pressure gauge is attached) and hook up your second known good gauge there. That way both gauges should be reading the same values at the same time. If you don't have a second gauge and you don't mind making a mess, simply remove the dash gauge line from the block and crank the engine. Eventually a bunch of oil should pour out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 I want to check the gauge prior to installation in the car. I don't want to try fooling with it after the dash has been installed. I have not had this car running since I got it so I'm not sure the gauge works at all. The fuel gauge, I've found is a little questionable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 2 hours ago, jpage said: I want to check the gauge prior to installation in the car. I don't want to try fooling with it after the dash has been installed. I have not had this car running since I got it so I'm not sure the gauge works at all. The fuel gauge, I've found is a little questionable. Make up an adaptor and check the gauge with some air pressure. With a compressor, regulate it down to about the middle of the gauge range before attaching the gauge. If you don't have a compressor a tire pump will do. Also, in many areas the water pressure is between 40 and 80 psi. but I don't think I'd trust that as I've occasionally seen much higher values, I can't control it as well and I'd rather not get water inside the gauge if anything goes wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 Thanks ply33, that's kinda what I had in mind. I ws going to try to rig up some kind of check valve to a line, pump some oil in it to see if the gauge would rise. The valve would hold the oil at pressure to check for leakage. That is, if I ever get around to it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 I have a small compressor for an air brush and it has a regulator on it from my paint gun. Since it has a gage on it it works great for testing things that do not require a lot of volume of air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Plumb it onto a known engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now